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socorob

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Everything posted by socorob

  1. socorob
    I think I would go with a coyote motor if going the DOHC route, just because of guaranteed parts availability in the future.
  2. socorob
    http://www.datsunzparts.us/ He seems to have gotten a better working website now.
  3. socorob
    On his Facebook page he said he has over 400 orders for datsun parts. If he's legit, you would think parts reviews would start surfacing soon.
  4. socorob
    We last listened to them a few weeks ago.. NPR must be playing reruns because he sure didn't sound like he had alzheimers.
  5. socorob
    Ive always just used 4 pieces of small clear tubing going into a cup at each wheel. I did my car by myself and didn't even have to pump the pedal. Just barely crack the bleeders and go work on something else for awhile. This os assuming all your bleeders are in the highest location.
  6. socorob
    I ran the drainhose around to the front where the factory AC drainhole was. It's been getting down into the 50s here at night, but I haven't had a chance to try the heat yet. I pulled the hatch off and most of the windows out getting it ready for paint.
  7. socorob
    Same here. The hot part of summer was over by the time I got it in and working. Just make sure these things are level or they will fill your car with water.
  8. socorob
    The compac fits too if you're in a hotter climate and want more AC. I installed that one since I'm in the humid gulf south. By the time I had it installed temps weren't going past the high 80s but after it cooled the car down, low speed was keeping it cold. The 2 caveats to installing the larger unit are you have to cut 1 screw shorter that holds one of the lower dash supports on(or just use a shorter bolt), and it has to fit a little off center towards the drivers side (which means the passenger gets a little less AC to the feet).I'm sure either works better than the Datsun AC. That thing had pathetic air flow.
  9. socorob
    Have you tried to gravity bleed them to see how much comes through?
  10. socorob
    Every time I go to the junkyard I pull the ones off the windshield cowls of 90s Hondas. They screw instead of push so easier to reuse. They worked in my taillights. I will be starting to put the interior back in in a couple weeks and let you know how they fit inside the car.
  11. socorob
    Thanks. It's amazing how much time little things can take up.
  12. socorob
    Got tired of my AC knobs hanging by the wires, so finished up the vent panel. I also added LEDs for brake level/ebrake, check engine light and cruise control (which I haven't finished booking up yet).
  13. socorob
    Those other holes don't line up for 4 lug?
  14. socorob
    Just make sure ti get their one designed to go over primer if you decide to go that route. I think rage gold is made for bare metal and rage gold extreme is made to go over primer. Apparently helps protect against filler absorbing water causing rust. Last time I bought it I got the wrong one, as the cans looked similar then.
  15. socorob
    I did the tap with a 45 elbow from the hardware store with datsun sending unit Works fine so far.
  16. socorob
    I used a relay in mine powered by the red/blue and red wire( if I remember correctly). This is a 280z. I then used a diagram from classiczcars to put in relays for the headlights. That diagram reversed the low and high beam wires so wire length would work out better. now that I have done that, my speedhut high beam indicator comes on when I put lowbeams on and goes off when I put highbeams on(reversed). When my headlights are on and key is off, the indicator doesn't light up, so the wiring is keyed on power. i don't know if whats powering the coil(the reds) or what I picked up to power the light is keyed power. If its keyed power powering the relay and light, you may be able to use a 5 position relay to make it work.
  17. socorob
    What Hans do you use?
  18. socorob
    Make sure you use a bondo that's made to go over primer. I think one is rage gold extreme by evercoat. Ask the people at the body shop supply when you go to get it.
  19. socorob
    You better get it running soon so there will be another Z at the autocross out at NOLA.
  20. socorob
    This isnt the forum to talk about other guys weineramers, and we definitely don't wanna know how it turned blue.
  21. socorob
    the jci oil sender won't work with sanderson headers. It's better to have it up top anyway for future servicing.
  22. socorob
    http://www.panasport.com/worksheets.html download these to keep track of your measurements.
  23. socorob
    There's no magic to backspacing. You put a straightedge on your hub or rotor(whatever the back of the wheel sits against) and you measure from there back to the first thing it hits.Leave a little room for clearance, and there is your backspacing. Takes about 2 min once the tire is off.
  24. socorob
    That's probably pounds which will mean more like $13,000 per corner depending on the conversion rate these days.
  25. socorob
    For the front you have to use 86+ Z31 hubs with a spacer for the rotor. I used the regular 4x4 toyota calipers and 86+ z31 rotors. On the back i used all TTT stuff with infiniti hubs so it all just bolted on. I had to get wheels regardless so I figured I may as well go with 5 lug from the start to have more wheel choices. Along the way someone gave me G35 wheels for the price of a lunch and going to get them, so that's what I'm using.
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