socorob

Got tired of my AC knobs hanging by the wires, so finished up the vent panel. I also added LEDs for brake level/ebrake, check engine light and cruise control (which I haven't finished booking up yet).

Those other holes don't line up for 4 lug?

Just make sure ti get their one designed to go over primer if you decide to go that route. I think rage gold is made for bare metal and rage gold extreme is made to go over primer. Apparently helps protect against filler absorbing water causing rust. Last time I bought it I got the wrong one, as the cans looked similar then.

I did the tap with a 45 elbow from the hardware store with datsun sending unit Works fine so far.

I used a relay in mine powered by the red/blue and red wire( if I remember correctly). This is a 280z. I then used a diagram from classiczcars to put in relays for the headlights. That diagram reversed the low and high beam wires so wire length would work out better. now that I have done that, my speedhut high beam indicator comes on when I put lowbeams on and goes off when I put highbeams on(reversed). When my headlights are on and key is off, the indicator doesn't light up, so the wiring is keyed on power. i don't know if whats powering the coil(the reds) or what I picked up to power the light is keyed power. If its keyed power powering the relay and light, you may be able to use a 5 position relay to make it work.

What Hans do you use?

Make sure you use a bondo that's made to go over primer. I think one is rage gold extreme by evercoat. Ask the people at the body shop supply when you go to get it.

You better get it running soon so there will be another Z at the autocross out at NOLA.

This isnt the forum to talk about other guys weineramers, and we definitely don't wanna know how it turned blue.

the jci oil sender won't work with sanderson headers. It's better to have it up top anyway for future servicing.

http://www.panasport.com/worksheets.html download these to keep track of your measurements.

There's no magic to backspacing. You put a straightedge on your hub or rotor(whatever the back of the wheel sits against) and you measure from there back to the first thing it hits.Leave a little room for clearance, and there is your backspacing. Takes about 2 min once the tire is off.

That's probably pounds which will mean more like $13,000 per corner depending on the conversion rate these days.

For the front you have to use 86+ Z31 hubs with a spacer for the rotor. I used the regular 4x4 toyota calipers and 86+ z31 rotors. On the back i used all TTT stuff with infiniti hubs so it all just bolted on. I had to get wheels regardless so I figured I may as well go with 5 lug from the start to have more wheel choices. Along the way someone gave me G35 wheels for the price of a lunch and going to get them, so that's what I'm using.

I always wondered what a bunch of Datsuns were called. So it's a murder of crows and a swarm of Datsuns.

All components are threaded and screw together, so maybe rearranging is a possibility? By them of course!

I have the opposite problem I need to try to figure out soon. All my blinkers blink fine left or right but when I put the hazards on only the right side blinks.

Maybe get in touch with Chris Alston Chassis Works. They make their racks in 1 inch length increments, so maybe they have a length that pretty close out the box. Just need to see the difference in diameter of the tube and where the steering shaft goes into it. http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-185-rack-street-machine-manual.aspx

I have the z32 brakes on back of my car and it uses built in drums for the ebrake. If that's not the case with these brackets then there will be an added expense of coming up with something for the ebrake.

For the fronts it looks like if you use a z31 5 lug hub with z33 track rotor and z32caliper, it's only a bracket that wouldn't be too hard to make IF you had a mill.

https://www.staceydavid.com/episodes/supercars-hot-rods-and-go-karts-2888

That makes sense. The 255 pilots are the same width as 245 rivals according to tire rack. Looks like I could squeeze another 1/2" or so of tire in there.

It's heavy duty, that's for sure. I have never seen AZcar stuff in person, so I don't know what's better. The only complaint I have with the TTT stuff is that it's hard to get the car even. I had to put the tall 280Z strut bushing back on the rear because I couldn't get it high enough, and I can't get the front low enough to lo level the car. I guess it's made to be used with camber plates maybe? I had to crank the back up pretty hard that it's a very rough ride in the back while the front I have so far down that the spring is just starting to get loose. This is all with the car lifted off the ground. I would like the car to be an inch lower but I don't feel comfortable with having the spring rattle around almost an inch when the car is off the ground.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1525949-project-steezee-1973-datsun-240z-lq9-v8-build-3.html

I think there's a guy on LS1tech that's doing the same thing.