frank280zx

thanks!

Do you have any clue who would have the molds for those doors? or a set ? before i go down the path of making them

That’s a nice car!!! Any more pictures and story’s how it got the body kit

Yes and on track collecting some missing parts for the engine, etc so going well! Allot has changed in part availability the last years so that is good !

Hi All It has been a while and I have been racing e36's, TA2's V8's hard. But that Datsun bug bit me again, (It helps to have one sitting in your barn the last 11 years!!!!) Over that time there have been periods I have done several things to it, but campaigning the other cars always meant to revivals short lived. However selling after selling the Sprint race car and just having an endurance car it started to itch. And to be fair I first went on racecarsdirect before I figured that was a stupid waste of money and knowledge. So without too much fuzz... She is back. Here is a link to the original thread: I think it is a blessing in disguise that I haven’t finished it sooner, racing from 10 years means you learn allot on what is smart and what is not. And over the years allot of 'spares' have found their way to the chassis, like a Tilton pedal box, fuel cell etc etc And times change so supplies do to, there a solution for the rear control arms by these guys https://www.apexengineered.com/ So ill put in my order for a front and rear subframe for the car. Here are some pictures of the body as it sits now: First it has been blasted Then powder coated Saturday ill start with mounting some small stuff like the pedal box. For an engine it will run an L28 with forged internals, kameari chain drive, isky cam, worked head, race oil pan and probably ITBS over the set of Dellortos i still have. I might go dry sump but that has pros and cons, the con is it ads weight.

Rest in peace! always a pleasure catching up with you on my US pelgrimages! So sorry to hear this. My condolences to his family.

I did it in a 280zx once and put a s62 in a e36 (www.facebook.com/rmrmotorsport) there are multiple problems, one of them, the biggest in my book is the large front sump.making any decent engine placemnet problematic. Next is the width (a m62 is nearly 7 inches wider than an ls1) And so the need to fab some decent headers. It also makes for a steering shaft problem. There are work arounds for the oil pan like the Alpina oil pan or a modified X5 pan. And then there is some home grown ingenuity in fabbing your own. Best results are had with a dry sump but that ads to the cost. and since you are aiming at the 1000 dollar car I’m assuming that you do not want to spend 4 grand on a dry sump system. Yes it can be done, but if you are aiming for bang for the buck in the us i would go for something domestic

Nothing wrong with a good v8 powered e36

Yeah well some stuff has happened it became A m5 v8 ... This stuff distracts me from my datsun to much haha!!! Most pictures can be found on www.facebook.com/rmrmotorsport

There is an intact complete works car in sf aswel... With fia head

Im still intrested for two sets!!

Well most answers can be found by reading and using search however ill go by them step by step: what chassie (or subframe) strengthing needs to be done? Short answer is none I have over 500HP V8 through a slick top but haven’t got much time on it however plenty with a ~350HP 305 and nothing gave. Best example is Jeffp who has 600+ HP on a t top car. My car has a full cage and I seam welded most parts. But I don’t think you have at all. the s130 platform is a better (not tastewise but from a mechenical standpoint) starting point for high horsepower, mainly do to design upgrades in the unibody ( there is a 10 year differences between the basic designs of the s30 body and s130) what needs to be removed from the engine bay? The v8 is allot smaller and you need to remove nothing it is a fairly straight foreword swap What wiring to keep? If you dont have a clue on that you might want to skip this swap but for a carbed v8 you need a switched +12 some grounding and a the ignition signal for that starter. thats it! I have seen that JTR has a book that covers most of this but its for 240-280z cars, not the 280zx, is there any write ups for the 280zx?. JTR sells them with the kit i think it is even on their website. Where would be a better place to get a conversion kit or do we need one? JTR is the only one i know of. but you could easly make the mounts yourself. Plan on selling the Turbo 350s and either geting a 2004R or find a 5 speed manual not sure what manual to get. It all depends on your power goals. if it is high HP go for the T56 (LT1 with adaptor or LS with SBC adaptor) if cheap is what you want a BW t5 The 383 has headers that are close to the block, keep those or are there special headers we need to get? You will need the JTR headers or figure out your own headers i opted for the last option but it is all up to skills I do all my own mech work, can weld (been about 20 years) and can do fabrication. In that case dropping the engine in is not hard .

Thats why it is in there and well im a sucker for the rumble ....... Anybody have any experiance with set up that they like? I see the mallory units on ebay and read on forums they are fairly hassle free.

So I finally got time away from my BMW e36 GTR race car (s62b50 m5 dry sumped v8 ) as we are waiting for the v8 to return from the engine shop. So finally I decided to pull the 406 and mount the T56! also I want to remake the wiring harness to the front headlights to delete all the stock FI stuff and fusible links. I have gotten more experienced in this the last year due to constant changes in the custom wiring loom of my race cars. So it is time to do this right! This is all to old school and there is allot of stuff unused or routed in a way not pleasant for the SBC as it has ‘hot sides’ on both side of the engine. One thing I really like about this set up is the ease of removing an sbc! It took me only 2 hours and that was taking it fairly easy! Also I want to revise the fuel delivery away from the headers and put the lines through the compartment using special braided lines like I do in my race car . Needless to say i need to reroute the oil lines using some Goodridge AN lines that have to be insulated. As one engine bay fire is enough for my taste So there will be slow progress. Goal is to actually finish and drive it for once and make it NICE not a half hack job. Financially I have grown away from the freshly out of university days when I first bought the car and skilwhise aswel so I guess it is time to give it what the car deserves. One thing i am debating is using a nascar cowl induction air box I have a perfect carbon fibre one. This is pure looks I admit! This would mean stepping over to a crank trigger ignition. Anybody know a bolt on set up for this?

Andy flagg has a Cadillac lump in his 280z.. that seemed really tight! it is set up as a drag car so it does not need to steer. but lets say i had an inspiring drive around the block in that car.. the torque was simply brutal. So your goal of cruising and lightning up the tires should be easy.. the BB Z I drove in felt like it wanted to lift its nose!!!! so please keep us updated!