frank280zx

So where do go, or do you sell these to?

yes at 4K i guess staying with stocker or LD saves shipping a container

Yes i will .. i hope to have it running before june! and my hopes are to ship the car to MSA 09 .. and autox Now i just need to work out pistons any suggestion what to use that is light with this piston ? Let me see if i have this right, and im thinking out loud, so correct me if i,m wrong. if normally you would have a pin height of 38mm and KA pistons have 34mm so that rules those out as with the already 3mm longer 240 rods you still have negative deck height with a stock 79mm crank (-1.35mm) vs a LD crank (0.65mm) These rods with 89MM KA's would give - 4.32mm at TDC.. not what you would want for numerous reasons. So basically with an LD crank you would be at roughly -2mm witch would not be good for compression ratios. With dished pistons that would drop it well into the 6.s and flats somewhere in the 7s Block height (L28) 207.85 Rod Length (L24) 133 Rod Length (L28) 130.2 L28 Crank 79 LD28 Crank 83 Piston Dia (L28) 86 Piston Pin Height (L28) 38.1 A KA piston Diameter 89 Pin Height 34 Basically you would need a stock 38 mm pin height piston eliminating the easy and available KA option. anybody have a suggestion what piston to use? as most are made for use with the 240 rods from what i have read. So would the Ross set work? anybody know the pin height on this ? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM04/10-4080 What would anybody here suggest piston wise? I might aswel go all custom moving the rings down from crown and get 88mm or 89's but im pretty much in the dark on this continent where to go and say; " Hey i need forged flat tops with this bore and that pin height I know (heard) you can get v8 pistons and that would be cheaper to state your building v8. anybody has experience on this? Brain can you help ? Anyhow Tony we don't know what these will do either .. maybe ad should take em to spa to see!

But you have to agree 550g a piece sounds good.. use some lighter pistons and you have some advantage there!

I wonder if i will see that number!.. but with the way my head is ported, the special isky grind for my application and the fact i run an SC and a turbo .. it should be Torque on tap.. andhe what can i say im a gadget guy!

If he is right you will soon have two holes near one bore

I agree on that brian! stock prepped rods are fine But i want to try at least with a 89MM piston that i will have custom make anyhow now i bought these, so lets see what it brings or shoots out from the side.. According to their reply they are lighter so that will bring down the rotating mass witch is worth something. however ill weigh my prepped 240 rod, and a stock 240 rod a stock 280 rod and these and post the details once their in

Im taking the gambel for you. i bought a set, lets see what they will do.. ill post detailed pics of them once i get them. I will install them in my 89mm bore super charged turbocharged project. I will be 'only' running 20 psi and not more then 7K RPM to start. but it will be track driven, so can be a first test mule.. but im sure more of us will follow Then agian im also sporting an OBX hlsd witch some here think to be good and some hate. Hybrid will be the first to know when one is sticking out of the side of my engine!

He Hugo we here in holland have some special cars we should get a to do a meet up once we all have wheels instead of jackstands ! wanna do a Nurburgring meet ?

Hmm to be honest i would NOT go VW .. BUT use a BMW diesel. I hope they are available there .. but for once they have more torque and a flatter power table, meaning a faster feeling .. and Tony can vouch for that. next to that they are RWD and also available in 2.0 4 banger (factory 170 HP and plenty of torque) 2.5 or 3.0 six bangers. The 1.9 tdi's are to peaky for my taste .. and believe me every car here has one from Seat to Audi and back.. And believe me my Beemer has an edge to most of them op to 2.7's mainly due to the fact it has a flat power curve

To bad to see the wreck.. however look on the bright side!!! time for an upgrade! there in cf and glass sponsor the guy who is willing to spend for a mold for us s130 owners .. lighter and no rust!! http://betamotorsports.com/products/index.html

What are you talking about?? my way of commenting? i mean i GAVE you insight and THE answer to your question.. It doesnt look like it isnt so.. IT IS NOT SO.... Your valve cover on the engine would not be the one that came on the engine from the factory. Next to that the cam from quick mesurments is slightly diffrent from the us cam i have available, but that is out of an p79 head so that might be the reason. Me saying you are in finland is to point out that your combo is a stock combo with diffrent pistons than the US market would see. I dont see where that would have offended you.. If you have been offended by this....whatever..

Europe never got the hydrolic lifters al p90's are non hydrolic despite the A code. However im fairly sure they are 'domed'as he is in finland and that makes for a normal l28 here. I bet he has the valve cover in 'turbo'style but with only the bigger NISSAN on it. The euro ZX engine was rated at 150hp however i have seen a dyno pull with with a low KM car pulling 142 at the wheels.. Given you never know how accurate that dyno compares to others.

Classic!! haha !! i like that blasting peoples doors off on el cheapo OBX style turboes!!

AS ARP studs are MUCH stronger, apart from that they are reusable and dont have as much hazzard of snapping when you DO need to pull your head. They prolly run about the same prize as a OEM nissan set.. Studs all the way for me .. then agian i am looking at removing the head for gasket issues more likely as i do run my engine hard ... if not yeah stick with what you have.. apparently it makes YOU happy however i would not go cheap and go for the studs instead!

euro s130 cars after 81 had a p90 f54 NA combo with Flattop pistons with a 2 cc squish pad on top. I believe Nismo sold them as a peformance item.. so yeah there a diffrences in euro and JDM and USDM markets .. same with turbo cars etc...

shoot pictures they can tell more a A stamp is a stock cam, it should have some 'writing'on the bak mostly with an L followed by a number (4/6 etc) meaning the grind profile.. next to that what kind of headgasket is between there make a picture of teh passangerside of teh head .. a HKS metal unit is very notabable So pics please

The problem with stock steering rack i found is the extreme lack of steering angle needed to pull out of big angle drifts. With increased steering angle it is possible to achieve greater angle , it will also aid in spin recovery. This is often done with spacers on the steering rack, custom steering racks, custom tierod ends, or machining the spindles. Im sorry zxr kid.. the angle on a z is not good for drifting at all! next to that you might want to look into 400 500 lbs springs and a Near Zero Front Suspension Droop.. if you want to drift i hope you have a big wallet and the common sense to not do it with an s130 if you lack the first!

Haha show me pictures BTW 260Det i have 380lb springs i see you have 400s?

You make em yourself.. like said elswhere in this topic .. fabrication is your friend .. im still not 100% with my set up but it is an test set up as is with room for improvement over the coming years.. an yes sory 80lt1 i know you are out there and jeff.. MAck naturally i know you are out there!! so will you be at MSA 08 ? i can bring a dash for you in 09 BTW

i dont completly agree on that .. Why not use an e88 it gives more compression and isnt allot worse than a p90 in flow. After some prepping it will be as good. My experiance is that a cam and compression in cobination with a lighter flywheel really makes your car drivable fast car. What comp ratio are you looking at, id say it is safe to go close to 11:1 on a street car. But there are probably more people that can pitch in!

I like your car allot .. why do you go p90 .. i would up the comp a bit with a diffrent head.. it definatly makes the car wake up.. Next to that John at Beta motorsports sells CF and GF hoods .. that will save some more weight!

haha barnardd .. ill buy you one at next msa i mean i know your car is stock .. damn you should have bought the wings at the dyno place we where at with jeff's mongoose!

how is it possible that the s130 seems such a ghetto mobile where most people use em as either driveline donor or are ubercheap bastards bragging about how the modded this and that building huge ricewings etc? I mean in europe you can see anywhere from 5 to 9 k in euros for even 2+2 turbos ( they only came that way like z32's and z31 for that matter) I tend to have a serious approach to my s130 as does 260det.. and some others like warren etc.... are there more people? on this forum lurking that did some real mods or built or own 280zx racers? any cars with real suspension mods and more than just an k&N upgrade?

Ok i agree on the floatiness USDM models of the s130 even suck when they are new the spring rate and the sway bars are thinner. The feel like caddilacs! Next to that they EU Model, witch even has different engine in NA form ( f54 ‘domed’ flat top pistons p90, no cat o2 crap egr) and in turbo (different ECU no o2 different dizzy .82 exhaust housing 3.3 stock rear end etc), It is MUCH lighter ( no AC power windows etc). It also has aero improvements like a front airdam and tail.. With all due respect and mind you I have ZXR aswel .. Witch is nothing more than a silver base ZX with a Japanese L hatch ( no wiper) with a big rubber twat on the back and some OEM rice.. I call BS! 172 is utterly impossible It is the top speed of my Stock eurospec turbo.. no way in hell a stock USDM ZX would do this even going down hill! UNLESS you have 2.11 gearing witch your power curve would not handle in 5th Next to that not even my BRAND spanking new BMW is that accurate on the speedo!! .. even worse i notice diffrence in tire wear at high speed! BMW is know for accurate speedometers and itis off.. at 251kmh im doing 243 according to my gps... I have a 'few' zx's and NONE of them is accurate to the extend you provide (mind you we have speedometers tot 200kmh/240/ and 270 kmh depinding on model etc) Next it becomes even better; YOU should take that car to saltflats .. 200 MPH!! really not in 200 years! maybe with 20:1 compression running on warp core.. but not with any NA L engine... in a street car Im sorry if i soudn like a jerk I just have a hard time believing the info you provide here.