frank280zx

The flange whas made on a lathe, They are OBX but it is prolly made by the same Chinese slave labour workers , spring rates are ( after measuring in a press) 304 left front and 301 r Front 276 R rear and 273 L rear High rates but i like a stiffer set up in high speed corners better However if you buy these and do NOT have access to a machine shop .. DO NOT BUY THESE!!!! or settle for work around Next to that do NOT expect the best quality etc.. for me this is a pure test set up.. I solely use these in the rear the front sleeves and rings are better quality, though i would not hesitate to use these.. good thing is that you can buy brand name springs on ebay and the hardware is good enough! cost so far USD 70 for the set up and a 6 pack for the machine work.

Well here we go the generics are on the back , I use re valved koni adjustable for this. One ifs fully extended the other dropped to the max. for reference. This gives me nice control. The ebay sleeves where machined and a 2,5 CM spacer was made to get the right amount of adaptation. Here is a detailed shot of the machined ring. The set up does require some minor details but i have faith in the fact it will work out for what i am looking for. The fronts will get a sleeve welded over the strut housing. pics of that will follow as soon as i get them done. sofar am happy with rear set up. Ebay generic crap seems to work great as long as you have access to a machine shop for some tweaking. Thank you FrankW for helping!

WOW !!!! paid on Sunday and got them WENSDAY!!:038: that is FAST considering Easter and all.. Well they are like one would expect for el cheapo crap, but for my test set up it will do, next upgrade will be some custom struts etc. Anyhow they need some TLC ( sleeves are not cut in the nicest way) And the stock set up for mounting them is far from trustworthy.. But i will make my own set up.. However like said some TLC and they will give me full control.. spring rates checked out pretty close only 2LBS difference I feel confident that they will be a good set up for the time being, to much cost at this point on other stuff so next year i can upgrade.

I know Cosmo racing sells a kit on ebay and a datsun 510 setup that should fit the 280zx front. That I can link to as I have been looking into this for a while as wel but with my z31 5 lug swap I needed to go a different route http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-NEW-510-FRONT-COIL-OVERS-COILOVERS-SPRING-SET-2_W0QQitemZ160104375364QQihZ006QQcategoryZ6763QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem so use these for the front and generics for the rear .. NOTE this will need some adapting and stuff.. OR you could adapt a set of s13 coil overs (Teins or whatever)

haha i have one want to buy the clip ?

i have seen fronts on ebay. and i heard from my friend Xander that Dave at arizona told him he was making sets, or at least has proto type done.. drop him a line !

Well i decided to buy some generic eaby crap... Advantages: - More or less universal sleeve ( these are stated to be a good fit) - Springs can be bought of reputable brand like Ground control orso after fitments and trail runs. - 70 USD shipped to Europe ( 50 to US) - You don ot pay for a brand name. Disadvantage: -stated spring rates might be inaccurate or differ from spring to spring -They way they are supposed to mount is just crappy. -Not the best material in the world. I will mount it differently with a cnc'd tube that slides in ( when fitments are not tight, so the fit is good) and have a sleeve holding it up welded to the original strut housing. Next thing is either make treads in in the top of the original strut so i can tighten it or just weld a sleeve so the coil over sleeves stays put and does not move up and down, also i can still get to the damper easily. Well lets see what it brings spring rates are 350 front and 300 rear .. not to bad for my likings, though it might get bouncy on the nordslieffe well ill show you pictures in the next weeks depending on when the mailman comes.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Whaletail-rear-spoiler-Fits-Datsun-240-260-280-Z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140711QQihZ017QQitemZ270106086453QQrdZ1 Heads up a rare find!! he claimes s30 but this is what it looks like OEM ZXR!!! wing!! not in the best shape.. but not bad either, judging the pictures that is.

what is the real issue, if it seems out of wack adjust it yourself so it looks normal then drive and it becomes Monday easily ...

I did search bot nothing came up.. I have replaced my rear hubs and fronts with z31 stuff, in the front i run the complete strut assembly, mainly because i could still get a good damper for it over here ( i run re valved koni yellow adjustable in it and koni yellows for the rear aswel.) , and it is thicker etc. to do this and clear any camber issues involved with that strut you need to extend the front control arm of the s130 by 25mm.. however a z31 is 5MM thicker in diameter over a s130 from what i measured quickly... Are there coil overs made for a z31 front? as i don't get enough camber plate use to my likings with a stock spring. Or do i need to go radical and just adapt a set? from what i have measured a z32 front it seems the same diameter. (don't know what year or if it is NA or turbo) Ebay does have the el cheapo sets for z32 ( generic).. question would be if the spring rates are anything to my likings (To speak in US set ups i would be more of an east coast liker) Anyhow from what i can tell now trying the ebay route would be the best way to test before sinking in serious cash for a custom set up (intrax) http://www.intraxracing.nl/ What do the z31/z32 guys here use? where do you find ' bump steer' spacers or better roll center adjusters. and am i right that z31 have the same diameter? Thanks in advance!

yup i did this is after the first fitment now it is all blended in, it is a beta motorsport hood, so they are out there for a s30 .. it is easy as long as you use the right stuff ( glass and minimal bondo, or use special bondo to do it.)

Well the axles of a z31 fit with no mods, It has the z31 hubs and vented brakes As you can see the sub frame is mostly re-assembled, it has poly bushing and solids in the sub frame mounts, it has been seam welded. The trailing arms have been seam welded aswel. The diff is a 3.3 cooled euro turbo diff , running an OBX hlsd( pump is not on this picture but i will update when i mount this on the car) The rims ill be running will be 17"s 10J the clearance is minimal but enough, measuring on the car does not show problems at this point For the front use of a z31 strut you need to extend the arms by 25mm ( or however much you feel suited) i also run adjustable bushing upfront so i can adjust from 20mm to 30 mm and adjust some of the cars roll center. Next to that i will use 30mm bumb steer spacers all in all a fun day! [

I have to come back on teh offset, however fronts ar 8,5J 17" and 10J 17"in the back this translates to 245 45's upfront and 265/275 25's rear, ill look at the offset this saturday .. and will keep updating

Nothing Vinh... they are the exact same lengt.. for the front however you need to adapt the arms. These are two strengthened and seam welded front control arms, we measured that they needed a 25 MM extension for my 8,5 to fall within the fenders top and clean up the camber issues involved with running a z31. Thanks VA-Motorsports!!(my friends shop) i keep learning from them:038: Only they would TIG weld for costumers etc .. but watch and learn from teh pro's!it is great to watch and learn to think that motor sport way

Well Tyson is it worth the bet for you? i have plunged in 350 euro's (420usd) for an OBX HLSD it seem to work out for me, same goes for the 'rs' style BOV.. a turbo .. well just try it, it seems to work.

the car i built with my dad, hence he hated japanese cars .. but i infected him !!

John it seems like their will be a small container this year, in any case i will drop by in april to make arrangements looking good !! slownrusty.. John thanks again for stepping up!