frank280zx

let your car run 100K first! Even stock it is falling apart he what do you think of compound charging .. sjeess bubbles you are posting an awful lot for someone in the marine! Sorry what is your problem.. even if it runs for 100 miles it is great achievement! even if it blows up at the first 1/4 mile it is! it is insane and great!! and btw engines ARE LEGOS.

like there never was an BRE Spoiler .. however these are just the street names for them and it seem to work when you are looking for one

i dig the snorkel kit for offroading

Looking goood!!!.. It is the seat mounting that makes em sit up high, you would have tho remove the oem seat support and weld something up yourself. Im 6,01' to and that will suck wearing a helmet.. If it where my car i would try to lower them as much as possible. Looking at the design of the brackets i saw they do not help allot either. Anyhow they suit your Ride keep it up

It would make it substantively stronger hmm i might have to do that. Would you deem it unsafe as it sits now ? as this is the way the FIA homologated cage sits in the 240's here

Just got myself an isma kit but ill link people from zdriver to here there are allot of zx people there, and here in the model specific forums ?

you mean like this? i was thinking about that or a diagonal this morning

BMW 325 or 330 Diesel out of an e90! of the bat with room to improve

Update on my ZXR cage process, today i managed to notch most tubes and stitch them in place.. all that is left now is finish up the 'side impact bars' marked in red lines on the second picture. As you can see i have one diagonal in the main hoop and one in the back half of the cage, i do not have any problems with my seats with this set up. however the main hoop is mounted about 10 cm further back than it would be in a s30 there is a bar running just behind the lower portion of the window aswel, ill shoot a pic of that next time So left to do is welding it all up notching the door bars .. sanding down the headliner one more time so i can paint it black with bed liner orso. And then mounting back the interior and wiring while im at it. Ill relocate the battery to the trunk so ill have more room for the SC piping and for better weight distribution. Im very energized by my project at this stage .. so i cant resist ! So what do you guys think?

i better start typing in that case i have done most you mentioned, like 260det modified all suspension bits fairly heavy, where 260det swapped it out for s14 stuff! im planning to incorperate the M3 group b style rear suspension mod on my trailing arms in the near future we both run cages , i run a full cage .. ( welding that one up as we speak) but we both have jack stand queens as it stands what i can tell you as that my cage is a 240z cage with longer tubing here and there .. fits like a glove ( it is the design used in my friends 240 rallye and track cars.. so your front legs you can use the same as a 240 but it has to be extended in the bottom as the s130 doesn't have the wider rocker panel it sits on .. all small things basically We just need to be more resourceful with a s130 and most s130 i have seen so far get ghetto modded ( not all and on this site there are some prime examples of very good looking thought through ones!)

pretty hard to drive and film funny but my cam phones quality is better than youtube LOL ! well have fun

You don't need any testing to see that they are of very poor quality, next to that if you google search on OBX you see that on other forums they also change out the washers. with success. however good luck with it. Share on what you find and not call bullshit on! the qaife part uses a similar set up untill than ill be happy motoring with belville washers

Ill use the original PS steering pump pulley of the buick, it is about the same diameters as the crack pulley. I will mount that on a machined adapter to the place where normally the PS pulley bolts up here you will find maps on most turbos and SC's if it is an eaton it will be on there ! http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbotech.html BTW OTM, haha your TB idea seems to be factory proven

Well they are the poorest quality steel in the world.. actually xander ( a member here) had the same thing happening as he did not replace the washers either .. if you buy this diff... witch otherwise works great like you stated in the OBX thread replace the washers! and youl be fine! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107997&highlight=OBX+lsd GARDNER SPRING 1-800-331-3263 MB1250-062 Bellevelle Disc Spring Package Qty: 12 1.250 x 0.0630 x 0.062 they sell em at mcmasters Here is the specs of the original washers (I took the measurements in mm so I have converted to inches as this is what mcmaster had in stock) Max Outside Diameter = 31.75mm (1.250") Min Inside Diameter = 16.0mm (0.629") Thickness = 1.6mm (0.062") Height = 2.33mm (0.092") the mcmaster online catalog the high carbon steel belleville washer that is the closest match is part number 9712K83 which as the following specs. Max OD = 1.250" Min ID = 0.63" Thickness = 0.062" Height = 0.092"

i think this thread will end up in the tool shed pretty soon, but yes the are interchangeable ( the clutch) , for the rest search

is it me or are those bushing in the lca the stock ones? And i don't really like the white faced gauge overlays but that is personal anyhow .. 3 k is allot of money but allot of the shitty work has been done, dont forget allot still has to be done !

THANKS appreciate it! I know there are others working on similar projects as mine, and i doubt ill be the first ever .. but im liking it. Thanks for the happy birthday!

yep they are used with enclosed water circuits.. Ill first mock it up with the small bypass, and one big IC (OTM gave an idea using Y pipes and a TB to act as a bypass). however ill see what it does first, i can always widen up the SC bypass when it doesn't work! and ad another IC Thanks loading etc tony ! remember to send some dates for 6 hours of SPA

OTM, there is plenty of room between the Valve cover and the hood near the latch on a s130 so that wont be a problem, but i have a composite 4" cowl for my car as well so no problems there. Im not necessarily looking for power goal .. im looking to have an as flat power curve as possible .. and well it just has to work that is my goal.. the power will come later by tuning and tweaking. lets first see if it works worry about power later ( it is more a see if it can be done thing, and if i can pull it off more than anything) And i have bolted the SC on one of the engine hoist points aswel on the real engine ill use studs only.. makes it easier to work on IMHO BTW the sound of the s4's is mostly generated by straight cut gears .. and well not just yet in my car Thanks for thinking along !

Olderthanme Thanks http://www.lindseyracing.com will be a good solution ! and i might just buy one in the next year. SHO-Z i think i have to clarify the placement of the water intercooler better. It would go between the turbo and the SC So TURBO > WATER INTERCOOLER > SUPERCHARGER >INTERCOOLER ( bar and plate) INLET PLENUM My supercharger has a bypass flapper, and that is exactly what it will do, minus the electric clutch for now ( maybe in the future) At pressure X the bypass opens and the turbo will blow by

So what would guys think, cool the turbo stage down with a water cooler or just forget about that stage for now? it seems small enough to fit over the valve cover ( between the turbo side and the sc side) and clear the hood.. + i have a 4' cowl sitting for the case it would not fit. I would just need a 90 degree connection on one side and two 45 elbows on the other . I wonder if one IC, placed between the SC and the Turbo would cool it back enough. I don't want methanol ( jet) as you can run out of it fairly easily. so that would be more a drag race solution , not road race/track/autpx what my car will be leaning to.

I use generic coils the are in the 300 range and stiff as hell! On the 40 tires and no rubber in the front strut assembly to be found all i can say from a little test ride .. it is blood pissing stiff! Given the struts are on their heaviest setting, also i use msa sway bars and adjustable end links ( one poly rubber in there)