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HybridZ

Z-Dreamer

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Everything posted by Z-Dreamer

  1. Here is a link to a company that makes all new bullit-proof Muncie M22s with various gear ratios and available overdrive and a price that is sweet at $1800. Note: Price for overdrive is not posted but check out the Carcraft link to see! http://www.autogear.net/ Mark
  2. Pete, have you considered Brodix? Take a look at their web site they show their flow numbers! One of the most respected names in the industry! http://www.brodix.com Mark
  3. I'd recommend a 6.25" to avoid cross member clearance issues. Mark
  4. What happened to the Chat room? I can't access anymore! SuperDan? Mark
  5. Ok here's my dilema, I've got a 406 Rodeck with a 14:1 compression ratio. Should I keep it that way and run race gas? or Lower the compression ratio by changing pistons so I can run pump gas? The Z will be a fair weather/ weekend car only. I want big HP! Serious responses appriecated! Mark
  6. Well after ALOT of research and discussion Methanol is out due to the hassle and no real cost savings. So I'm left with either lowering the compression ratio to run pump gas or leaving it at a 14:1 compression ratio and running race gas, say 110 to 114 octane? Input here folks! Should I keep the motor at 14:1 and run race gas? or Lower the compression and run NOS? Either way I know it will cost me money! Mark
  7. Click here for the Ultimate Muncie as found in the May 2002 issue of CarCraft www.autogear.net/ Mark
  8. Z ya, call Bob Johnson @ Johnson Racing, 916-481-9263 in Sacramento, he's my engine builder, he build's BIG HP motors that last! Mark
  9. Methanol is quite plentiful and cheap here in northern California due to Sprint car racing and multi-fuel vehicles. I know of several service stations that sell it at the pump and fuel companies that sell in 55 gallon drums. Mark
  10. Grumpy, I appreciate the advise and in no way take offense to your recommendations. I'm weighing the "cost vs hassle" aspect right now. Bottom line is: I want BIG power without the "bolt-on power-adders". Mark
  11. I know that methanol is highly corrosive, but I'm replacing the whole fuel system anyway. As to it taking "twice as much" methanol as gas, that's just not true. The sprint car racers I've spoken with gave me a example of a typical 20 lap race where one car is running methanol and the other race gas. The methanol car will burn around 15 gallons and the gas car will burn about 12 gallons! Around 30% more is about all I'll need! I'll also be running synthetic motor and a fuel dryer filtration system. Racing gas will be run thru the motor prior the shut-downs. Mark
  12. Ok, I called Rodeck and gave them the casting number and they said it is a wet-sump! After talking with several sprint car racers and my engine builder, I've decided run Methanol and keep it a 14:1 motor. Methanol is about a "buck a gallon" around here! That should net me about a 30% power increase over pump gas! I'm shooting for 700 HP @ the flywheel! Mark
  13. Upon closer inspection, the Brodix heads have Titanium valves! Porting work was done by Ron Shaver of Sprint car fame! I can't wait for my engine builder to flow test these babies! Mark
  14. First, I'm not going to use direct mechanical injection, I'll plug the down nozzle holes. Secondly, I'd agree that most pistons should not have there domes removed due to the fact that under the piston dome area is a concaved or inverted area. To both myself and my engine builders surprise, these are Custom Brooks Racing pistons and there is no concave or inverted area, meaning it would be the same thickness across the whole piston face area after removing the dome. This of coarse will require the crank to be re-balanced. It should work fine, if not I'll get new forged flat-tops. My engine builder has assured me that I can run a wet-sump system or a dry-sump. The choice is mine to make, since I have access to both. p.s. I traded my motor and some cash for this deal! Mark
  15. I'm now the proud owner of the above mentioned motor!!! Mark
  16. Hey Dan, try Nissan Only Wreckers! www.ninfiniti.com Mark
  17. So you want to build something like this? www.autospeed.com/A_0505/page1.html Mark
  18. I came across these the other day while web surfing. The first is a link to Factory Five, a Cobra Kitcar maker. They make a IRS kit based on the Ford 8.8 IRS for their Cobra Kits. This IRS may have shorter axles to fit their kits. http://parts.factoryfive.com/roadster/chassis/chassis.html The next link is to Kenny Brown Racing. They make a "dual" (upper & lower) control arm IRS for the Ford 8.8 IRS. This would allow 9 sec and lower Z's to compete in sanctioned drag racing. www.kennybrown.com/msprearsuspension.htm Mark
  19. That's my point, while it my not be a "IRS", it would solve the reliability issues assiocated with BIG HP Z's and the "Datsun IRS". This NASCAR type suspension, also refered to as a "truck arm" or "3-bar suspension" offers a reasonable solution dollar wise. Not to mention, bigger gear selection, wheel lug patterns, brakes, and the ability to run BIG/WIDE meats on the rear, without having to flair the fenders! Making huge amounts of power is useless if you can put it to the ground! This is good folks, keep it coming!!! Mark
  20. In my latest issue of CarCraft there is a article about putting a NASCAR type suspension in a Chevelle. The company selling these "kits" is called "Hot Rods to Hell". The end result is a suspension that does not bind like a four-link when hitting the corners or under a hard launch, is very stable at higher speeds, and is not susceptible to bump- or roll-induced steering. Their web site is: www.hotrodstohell.net Feed back folks, this maybe the answer for Ultra high HP Z's! Mark
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