Tony D

Define "$$" as I'm thinking more along the lines of "$$$$"...

The blue gasket is likely a knockoff of Garlock Gasket Material.

This is old news, the only people persisting in insisting P90A must be hydraulic are internet phantoms that likely haven't touched an L-Series much less any other vehicle. This is all over. You need to read the second page of Google Results, the first page is generally mind-numbed parrots squawking about the Internet myth in support of whatever...many without ever doing anything but reading Internet sites.

I wouldn't mind that turbo from the Arctic Cat...should bolt onto my Turbo Suzuki Van! Ask the guys with RB26's about ceramic turbos and ceramic ball bearings...

Plastigauge caps, the nice thing about the Honda towers is they're split so bearing oiling clearance can be checked against spec pretty simply using the correct instruments or some plastigauge. They should spin with light oil on the journals with one finger against a small Allen key in the center hole pushed against an alignment peg, same as the L-Series Cam with no spring or rockers on it.

Johnny Dangerously, Joe Piscopo. It's in Google you Farging aisehole bastige! https://youtu.be/6GVCgTFw2Qk

Hahaha, chains are required in CA for road driving when in some winter conditions on I80 and many local roads. It's funny that idiots can't drive. My old boss was in a Chicago 54 Car winter pile-up, third in line. It cemented my suspicions about his cognitive abilities. Apparently my voice relayed my disappointment in his survival of the event.

Ahhh, where have you gone 1, 1, 1 Trichlorethane?

^^^^ Hmmmm Bastige....

Sounds just like the Fairlady L28 with stock efi.

Everybody forgets simple old 1800's flyweight governor design. Brilliantly simple re-application of a very old concept by Suzuki!

Done as suggested, you can hang it all up over your work lights for use later... I think I have three or four 280Z setups like this in my storage shed, plus this one out of a 73 or early 260Z! Not hard, and you end up with a nice pattern to pretend 3/8 or 1/2" hardlines later on!

Free Parts, and I did not get them. There Will Be Blood...

Why did i dream about a custom Corvair billet block with custom cast heads that accommodate those 109mm+ bore VW Jugs with altered stud patterns, and a custom stroker crank, using SBC gear drive to relocate the cam lower in the block to clear the stroker crank...and dry sumped... Why did I have this dream... How could it ever come to fruition?

Painting the panels-off (especially with vintage Japanese Stuff) is SOP for higher line restoration shops. It's mandatory in places with winter or seacoast driving. It's something most people never see, so they won't value it. Until they live on Okinawa (or Michigan) and see panels that start to rot from the CENTER instead of the edges...and from the INSIDE out! I have a 260Z from the beach here in SoCal that has rust perforation in the damnedest areas. Center of the A Pillar, for example... Inside out. Center of the wing/fender, flat spots of the hatch nowhere near the edges! If you prep and paint from the inside-out then use body wax or schutz to seal everything it's pretty well-lived. My 73 was waxed after restoration in 81 on Okinawa. It's amazing what doesn't rust if you 'Rusty Jones/Ziebart' it right after stripping everything completely then painting properly...

Undo the bolts after soaking in penetrant. Remove banding covers. Remove insulating rubbers. Remove fuel lines. Replace vacant slots in insulators with stub keepers to keep rubber clamping brake lines. Reinstall insulating rubbers, Reinstall banding covers. Secure with bolts. Done.

A 3.2 or larger really is what you want for max power, these heads will support a 90x90 engine to 8,000+ rpms. Sadly, only on block in 10 can take that bore. So at most, I could only have three in my back yard suitable for that kind of build. But a turbocharged 3.0 with custom billet crank, shortened snout, dry sump, flanged flywheel....oh yeah I been hoarding parts for a LONG while!

Yep, the mechanism is offered aftermarket. Like those VNT turbos with a PWM controlled valve (easily driven by MS), there is stuff out there. Now, a PWM driven electrically variable inlet cam, coupled with that PWM controlled VNT Turbocharger with a PID overboard boost unloading controller on the inlet, and a turbo tachometer to PID control to most efficient tip speed. Someone say "extending torque"? What does 14psi off idle through a head flowing 310cfm on the intake make at 1,700 rpms? 7,700rpms? 9,700rpms? Even a measly 2.8 or 3.0 is a 5.7 or 6.0 at 14.7psi inlet flow... Not that I thought about this any on those 24 hour transpacific flights...

People mount RB25's with that same manifold in the engine bay all the time. It shouldn't be a problem.

Did you get the mounts on the correct side of the engine. Even with the L-Series in there, if you swap the motor mounts side to side, the engine sits upright and the hood will not close. I actually bought a car in Texas because the 'garage' did that and not being able to close the hood was so insurmountable a problem they pushed it out back and left it!

In fact, some of the VTEC engines that are JDM, with 0.2 CR more than US Engines won't pass Smog in CA when all US Emissions Devices are in place and properly functioning. They cut it that close. Same engine, just the CR different. Car won't pass.

Lets all be clear about VTEC. It's MARKETED as a "performance" option, but in reality it's for emissions compliance when not all out. The cams they have wouldn't pass US Emissions, so the lower cam lobe profiles and high rpm engagement keep everything docile for regulators. In reality, as said earlier, variable cam timing would be more useful for a true performance application. It's varying of the cam timing that will move that power band around. These engines are designed around EFI, and atomisation with carbs is not really a factor. The get the swirl in for combustion efficiency and emissions with a high velocity charge coming in through one valve opened more than the other. Similar effect could be achieved with some other design features...but they would compromise top-end performance. Honda has done a great job marketing the VTEC and a 'performance' feature, but it's just a 'detuning' of an already designed very high-performance engine to meet statutory regulations for streetgoing vehicles. For an all-race or even performance vehicle, dropping gear ratios and running above the point where the bottom end is 'soggy' is easily accomplished. Remember, the inherent torque of the inline six crank-arm will help a LOT with the shortcomings of the four-cylinder setup. At least that is the plan. It's my understanding other than a concept vehicle, none of the V6 Hondas had VTEC. They were mostly SOHC, and the NSX had DOHC...no VTEC. So that tells me when Honda wanted all out performance (NSX Flagship Vehicle) they stuck with a F1 V6 Design. That kinda closes the book on "VTEC Performance" in my book. I would think variable timing would reap MORE than enough benefits. This will be revealed easily enough during dyno checks of the engine in-car or on an engine dyno. Doing some variable cam sprockets would quantify the bottom-end or top-end benefits for all to see. This would go a long way towards justifying further development (or not) of that particular feature. As for VTEC, nobody with this head will be emission legal, period. So no real reason IMO to go down that rabbit hole. I think there are other more productive avenues to pursue. The exhaust side of this equation is VERY well designed. To see the numbers people are making by only changing the intake cam is staggering! Honda has some very good engineers.

^^^^ that is the $64,000 question. When laid flat how big is this "bow"?

I'll snoop around in SoCal while I'm there...

Some comments. As FricFrac says GM uses a bump on the cam to note #1 reference for sequential... It's not really necessary that it be an absolutely precise input it just needs to be consistent. Rather than casting a "bump" in the cam, since they are fully machined a "flat" to drop proximity signal can be used as a trigger as well. Additionally a clamped collar can be used on a cam to get this same phasing. JeffP has tested the Optical CAS from the Z32 to 12,000 rpms input shaft speed (24,000 rpms crankshaft speed) before the electrics in the CAS became indistinct. Driving a Z32 CAS off either a camshaft or distributor drive should be acceptable. A crank trigger will be more precise. With the rpms necessary on this head, choose carefully your components. What will not work is the old small diameter mpu distributor pickup like Emotive once sold. They said it's limit was 8,500 rpms and they were right. If it's in a dizzy mount, optical would be my input choice. For ultimate control sequential injection and individual spark timing will be a very desirable option. Most of the OSG Builds in Japan run Motec for good reason. You miss the mark under load and bad things can happen fast! Derek, PM me a shipping address. I will prioritize sending you a bitchin' period-correct oil cap for that vintage look you so crave!