Tony D

"I just wanted to know why it isn't more popular." Answer the questions I posited from a knowledgable standpoint and your question will be answered. Supposition and incomplete theoretical arguments won't cut it; honest, frank answers to the questions posed will tell you why in a heartbeat.

Similar to the Crown/Turbo Toms, etc. Standard Exhaust Manifold with an adapter. Tho that one looks to be non-standard and a weld-el rework--the original stuff was a mandrel bent thick wall tube that corroded out evenutally... A period piece as Frank Mentioned, with any number of Holley TB's or even a GM TBI and standalone you could take care of the cold drivability issues inherent in that design and make a decent daily driver which would look 'period modified' as the modern electronics could all easily be hidden under the big air cleaner. I've seen 10 second Z's (and an 11 second ZX) that run that system, they can make power. just depends on how much you want, and what tradeoffs you are willing to live with in a daily driver...

Yep, up to 77 or 78 the engine plate did have engine number on it, so there was a 'mathching numbers' possibility. I sold the matching numbers L24 out of my 73 in 1985 as I wanted more power than it provided. Anyway, the "Black Pearl" I have, doesn't have an engine number on the plate, it simply states in the middle of the engine space "L28", I believe the Brown Turd we used in LeMons (a 77) had the same identi-plate.

Exactly what rpms do you propose this will reach, and what real world 'advantage' will you get over say a destroked L28 or L24? With L28's being able to rev to 9000+, and a destroked 2.5L (L20A Crank) being even more revable, along with a larger bore for better valve unshrouding and high rpm breathing.... Why the fascination with the LD block? Of course some 3.5L monster may come of it, but this isn't what's being discussed in this thread, so it makes me wonder.

Does the fact that this product possibly already exists in the marketplace get this post classified as a 'techinical' or a 'commercial' comment? I think my engineer has returned from China, I will call him Friday morning and see if he likes the way I left his cubicle, and get more details on this. I don't believe he sourced his BOV/Boost PID controller from Trinidad. The control you propose is a simple PID loop with surge points mapped into a controller and a dual output to Wastegate and BOV. Once venting via BOV is possible, acceptable sizing paradigms of compressor wheels for low speed operation change dramatically. There is nothing new, only a rediscovery of another application with suitable reapplication to a new application...

Read "What is Compressor Surge" sticky above. A control scenario supposeldy exists to vent this flow and allow operation at higher pressures/lower flows. You have made a partial mistatement, it is NOT simply a matter of flow, it is a matter of flow at a specific pressure. Surge is ALWAYS a fuction of flow at a given pressure. It is explained in the aforementioned post.

My comments were not charitable: I call bullshit on the GTO. Unless a 68 Ferrari somehow incorporated a Datsun Z-Car combination light/wiper switch and steering column surround. Or Chapman Strut rear towers, sheetmetal gas strut brace for the hatch, tail light cover, or.... Gawd, impotent poseur. Anybody else wonder why they kept playing up 'V12' yet never opened the hood to show the Datsun SOCH with Webers? Maybe that's why.... I love the guy "I've seen the Ferarri Stampings on the Engine"---I once saw a similarly painted Datsun Conversion with a machine tooled valve cover with 'Ferrari' on the thing where 'Nissan OHC' used to be... I still wonder (no I don't) why they didn't show that wonderful V12 and Webers. I guess it sounds like a Six with Webers due to the Dual Exhausts and lack of an H-Pipe, huh?

You guys are complaining that boost comes on in a turbo car when you touch the throttle? Normally the issue guys whine about is pushing the throttle and NOT getting boost for a while... There appears to be a mixup in what people are offerering for solutions, some sound as if they are trying to combat a boost threshold hard on-boost response to MODULATION ON BOOST. They are TWO VERY DIFFERENT THINGS. My issue was that in a specific corner, 2nd gear was too low to take through the corner due to both RPM at exit and power porduced. 3rd gear was too high so I would onset boost going halfway through the corner with the typical problems. I added a wing for traction which allowed me to come in lugging the engine in third but onset boost and exit hard without traction problems. His issue would be akin to my 2nd gear entry: On boost, any sort of lifting will loose boost and reapplication is difficult due to radical delta throttle change from the oversized t/b. The answer is to give less throttle change per linear movement of the pedal. Dumb it down, null it out for the first 25 to 35% of throttle pedal travel. This is the SAME issue N/A engines have with a 60 or 65mm body. Because they have relatively low power outputs it's not as big a deal. With a turbo and the power it makes, the difference between 5 and 10% throttle opening can be tremendous. Either repositioning the linkage arms for angle (take a look at Derek's Lingage alteration on his home-cast ITB's for the exact same issue and resolution in a mechanical linkage scenario), or adding a progressive cam (like an eccentric) which deadens out the first 35% of throttle cable movement is a very simple solution. You will end up now moving the throttle pedal to say 50% opening, or even 65% before making any appreciable throttle plate angle change. The Mazda 626 or 929 has to be the car I got it off of, the thing was a twin 45mm barrel throttle body with a KIDNEY-BEAN shaped throttle quadrant. First half of the throttle pedal play really does VERY little to those plates, and this is where 85%+ of your driving is done. Go past that point, and the throttle is basically an on-off switch. As it should be. The JDM ZX Throttle Bodies with two plates are similar. You can almost be 'floorboarded' at 75% throttle, and the primary barrel is all the way open, then depress the throttle the next (last) 1/4 of the way, and you get full flow to the engine. Either basic triginometry to alter you linkages similar to Derek's Solution, or dilligent searching for a cam will deaden out your pedal fine. Most of the Japanese T/B's out there use a standard size shaft and flat cut where they attach to the exterior, so with flipping and flopping or even some screws through it to the quadrant you have you can get this altered response. I put these quadrants onto SU's so I could cable actuate them...you can fit them to another T/B! Even if it rotates the 'wrong way' you can always move the cable or flop the quadrant and make it work. "Spatial Visualisation Skills" come into play here... Good Luck. P.S. Sticky Tires and Aerodynamic Aids work wonders. They did for me on a 'slow' 65mph corner those 265's stopped lighting up when I put the whale tail on the back of the car. 370# at 100 still extrapolates back to 240#...weight which I don't actually carry, but which keeps my back end glued down in sweepers. There IS a reason that Turbo Carreras first came out with those tails (and not the duck tails they had for oil coolers, either!) WHALE TAILS were for traction (and the occasional place to put that humongo oil cooler...) 2 Birds, one stone. Clever those Germans...

depends where you take the temp as well... As JC mentions back at #5&6 you will see actual water temperatures 20F higher (minimum) than you will at the standard thermostat mounted sensor location. So when guys think they are at 215 and "OK" at the back of the head, expect to see at least 235F...

I find that the car goes miraculously silent at 140kph. Perhaps you simply aren't going fast enough to get the benefit of proper resonation within the exhaust system. It's nowhwere near the speed of sound, so throw that argument out the window!

That can of Mountian Dew makes a lot of sense now. Dude, less caffiene... things will not look so bad then!

Make the linkage less linear to introduce deadband in the first 25% of throttle play. You end up having to move the pedal more to affect the same delta-change flow-wise. You are now finding out when properly driven 'turbo lag' is not an issue in a modern turbocharger setup. Keep it above boost threshold and power is instantaneous with very little throttle position change. The smaller T/B may introduce some bottlenecking between manifold and piping boost levels. Basically you will show more boost in the pipe (which affects your BOV) than you will have in the manifold. Under lower flow situations this may not be much, but under high flow high rpms this 'orifice plate' can restrict output. Generally you shouldn't have a T/B with a smaller diameter than your I/C piping, and in fact slightly larger to accomodate for butterfly and throttle shaft turbulence/restriction. The 50mm stocker will work, but a non-linear linkage solves tip-in jumpiness. I preferred an eccentric mounted cable actuated throttle. I think I used a nautilis-shaped cam off of a Mazda with a humongo T/B for a 2L engine. You would need non-linear with that setup!

My standard answer is to find an old washing machine motor, shaft coupler, and hook it to a flexible shaft with a collett on the end. Much like a Foredom, but low speed. It allows turning of larger diameter sanding drums. I have had this setup for years (like since 1985) when I put it together, and has been a great little tool. I liked it because the lower speed was easier for me to control in the beginning, and the chances of making a mistake with a high-speed tool was less. If you can find the components. Now I have air tools, electric die grinders, and the old standby. When I do heavy stock removal I have the old washing machine motor and coarse carbide burr to do the heavy hogging, then the fine burrs on the electric die grinder, and finally my smoothing is done with air and cartridge rolls. Harbor Freight makes a lot of this stuff affordable. I won't use a Dremel-Style Tool on anything but plastic again. I'm either too impatient, or they simply burn out too easily. Or I got used to being able to bear down to remove stock with my washing machine motor...

I love the '1979 Skyline Turbo' contention. That is a .48 A/R turbine housing (likely off a later model anyway) mated to a crap box without the bypass valve. Good to know the 'value' of these parts. I'm indeed a rich man if I decide to sell my parts. They are actually GOOD parts, and not hype. $400 for an incomplete Box you can make out of 2X4 aluminum extrusion and get the same results from...what a laugh riot! I didn't pay that much for my HKS boxes, and they WORK! (Better than that pile, at least...) I mean, if he was selling the Bypass Valve, that would be one thing, but the only piece worth ANYTHING on that setup is conspicuously missing. Wonder why? Cleaning out the garage of trash?

I will have to chime in in the same vein of JM here. A 4.11 will NOT alter the top speed of a Z Car in stock, or relatively modified form. The car in stock form is drag-limited to 125-130mph. With a 5 speed, you will not be over-revving the engine to reach this speed. An early five speed is a great option, as everywhere in the world it was mated with at LEAST a 3.90 rear gear. In Japan on the 2L cars, it was with a 4.11, and in ZL (Heavy Cars) it came with a 4.38 from the factory. In practical terms of cruising, the car will spin roughly 500 more rpms per gear ratio. Meaning if you are cruising at speed in top gear with a 3.54 (whatever that cruising speed may be), you will turn about 1000-1500 rpms more with a 4.11. My car has a 3.7 and late ZX tranny, I cruise at elevated speeds on the highway, and the little L26 in there is right at home at 3200+ rpms. Many times I find myself in fourth cruising at 4000rpms if I am having to shoot and scoot for lane changes around slow movers. This is what the engine is DESIGNED to do, people thinking 3500 rpms on a highway cruise speed is 'too high' don't understand the design of the engine or how it's supposed to operate. Lugging the engine at 2800rpms for cruising in fifth gear makes for a DOG of a car, and doesn't net any real-world appreciable gains in mileage. My L26 with SU's and 3.7 nets nearly the same mileage as my 2+2 with an Early five speed and a 3.9 in it, running comparable speeds. On both cars I have to work HARD to break below 20mpg on the highway. Hard as in averaging triple digit speeds in steady-state driving. If I drop the speeds to 65mph consistently (besides having to downshift to fourth in my L26 powered 3.70 geared car to keep the engine from lugging) I get near 27mpg with both of them... All the lower gears will do is make you reach terminal speed faster. The operational speed of the engine at highway cruise will be well within design parameters. I know people with L24 powered FairladyZ's with Automatics and 4.38's who twist at 4000 through the Arizona Summer Heat and don't have an issue. They are 300,000 mile engines in stock form, wear 'from "excessively-elevated" rpms' is not an issue. They are not a SBC in a short bed pickup that will wear out in 75K miles due to poor block metallurgy... <EDIT> Oh, I will also add that I have driven CROSS-COUNTRY in BOTH of these vehicles. Meaning 14-16 hours straight of highway cruising at 3500+rpms. In the case of the 2+2 with two passengers and TOWING an 800# trailer. Nothing is as satisfying as passing some slowpoke on a twisty-turny TOWING A TRAILER and shifting into third to punctuate the point they are going too slow as you pass them! (and then into fourth as you pull away in the distance...) The 3.7 gears will take you to highway speeds in second (say 100kph) with that early tranny. 4.11 will be in third, you will be slower 0-60 because of the rowing of the shifter, but once in 3rd, you are good to any legal speed and will be pulling harder than any other gear mentioned. My cars when at highway speed will accelerate in top gear unlike the majority of overgeared US Spec Models. Everywhere in the world, the STANDARD four speed offering was a 3.7, and five speed was 3.9. Minimum. A 4.11 is really only a 500 rpm increase over that base. If I can put 18,000 miles on within 3 weeks give or take, in the heat of the summer, driving across the desert southwest I'm thinking a 4.11 will be fine running the toll road from Spavinau to Altus...

Yes, ever since LA Annexed Denver due to Expatriate Relocation to recover lost tax dollars, things have been moving fine all over 'California'... One day, Colorado will pay the $24,000,000,000 ransom and get back rights to Denver, but till then it's part of California...

One of the first things I did to the Y2K Frontier my wife has was to disconnect that damnable clutch switch. Yes, I can start the car in gear now. I still believe I have enough intelligence to remember to shift to 'n' before starting the car. I also have anough honor to understand if I run into my own house because of a temporary lapse of reason, it's my problem, and not Nissan's.... I hate those switches. Same goes for shift interlocks on Automatics. I could go on and on... Anybody remember when you had to adjust lubrication rate and pump the crankcase full of oil on your motorcycle? Manual Rocker Arm Lubricators?

Bummer on the thrust face... I never start the car with the clutch depressed. Always in "N", same goes for sitting at a light. Clutch is either 'on' or 'off'...can't stand to sit there with the foot on the clutch, grinding away at the bearing thrust face...

So do I: H4lights.com same as the Autopals. He sells more than Autopal, he's also a vendor for Hella, etc.... He (H4Lights) has always said "Buy the best lights you can afford, you won't be sorry." I have several different Autopal reflectors from him, most of which have been altered to be illegal on the road anyway. I like light downrange. If you know what reflector does what, glaring light (what annoys other drivers) is not an issue. As for plastic or glass, or whatever, it all depends on what you are getting originally. I have all glass with metal backs save for the MSR's that I bought, I think they are glass front with plastic backing. Each has it's own advantages. If you are in a place which uses salt on the roads plastic backs may be preferable to the thought of lights that may rust (and when you pay $150 PER for Bosch or Hella) that may give some people peace of mind. Those Bosch units selling for $50 a pair were marketed recently by the OEM outlet that balked on their shipment at $97 each... So when you got a loaded container of lights that an OEM doesn't want any more, you got to do SOMETHING with them! The Autopals are a basic knockoff of Hella. I have had them for more than 15 years in my car now, simply because there was absolutely NO difference I could visibly detect from a $50PAIR of headlamps to my $150 EACH Hellas. I have run Hella, Cibie, SEV Marchal since 1979 and when the Autopals started being marketed in the USA I jumped at their E-Code headlights. They are actually E-Code, not just stamped on the box. You will see they will not put an e-code on something which does not comply. Why? Because Autopal is an OEM supplier to some major manufacturers...they can't afford a bad rap on anything. I have tried some of the cheaper lights out there (yes, plastic NON-Autopal) as well as metal and glass---and was VERY disapointed with them. But make no mistake: E-Code is not street legal in some states. Know this. Even if the headlamp is "DOT" on the lens, how do you KNOW it complies if it's from some offshore no-name maker. Autopal is not that way. And the guy there at H4Lights can support what he sells, and KNOWS lights. Try to get support from the e-bay guys. I loved the guy on e-bay selling autopals for $20, and then charging $45 for shipment. Hell, at that time loaded reflectors were $49.99 a pair SHIPPED from H4 Lights.com! But hey, they were only $20... Watch out when you buy your lights. Some stuff is just cheap. I have not seen that coming out of H4 Lights.com. Matter of fact, I'm taking delivery of a pair of those Bosch Lights with Narva XB3's for someone in our office who has a Miata. Should have them in-hand Saturday. For $50 less than what he expected to pay for ONE reflector. Like he said: "For that kind of price, I'm willing to give it a try!"

Consider differential cooling if you plan on towing full speed during the summer. My R180 got hot enough towing across arizona in June to melt the plastic breather off and cook the hypoind additive straight out of hte differential. Synthetic oil in the differential (plus a cooler) would be highly recommended. I towed an 800# trailer about 15K miles behind a Z in about a month of driving at highway speeds. I would not recommend it with an R180. With an R200, I'd add a cooler like the European Cars have. As for a big hitch...well I guess I'm a redneck then. But I can plug in any Class 3 2" square accessory into the back of my car and use it. That includes bike racks, tailgators, and those funky swinging seats that hold two corpulosas and their swill... I did it because I could, and it works great! It also helps that I can pull the pintile hook or ball out and not have that knee-breaking pesky tab out there at shin height, either! STIFF springs and Tokikos out back help with a heavy tongue weight. As mentioned by JC, brakes which you would only consider for a track environment start looking like a good idea on a towing car. I ran Porterfield R4S on all four corners, with Motul RBF600 and it seemed to haul the car down pretty well. The front end DOES seem lighter even if only using stock springs and slightly stiffer shocks...but what can you do? Not like someone is going to put Class 4 Equalizers to pull weight from the trailer onto the front wheels through levers and chains, right... Hmmmmmmm, that gives me an idea....

As the Corvette was mentioned, let me chime in at something I noticed long ago when comparing old Chevies and Old Datsuns: Datsun doesn't ground ANYTHING! Look at a 70Z and a 69 Corvair for instance (or for that matter a 70 VW Beetle)... The first thing I noticed was lack of a big flat braided ground strap from the engine mount to the chassis. And another at the tailshaft of the transmission to the chassis. A Corvair has at least four 3/8" flat braided copper ground lines from the four corners of the head, to the chassis surrounding the engine, as well as a larger 1" wide flat braided cooper ground line at the front of the transmission. The VW's have a big flat braided ground line from the block to the negative on the battery (actually a star-point on my bus...) and another that goes around the rubber mount at the front of the transmission. When you realize that the engine can in some instances literally become a 'floating ground point unto itself' because of lack of proper ground straps from the engine to the chassis, it's no wonder our Datsuns have the ground issues we do! I star-grounded many things together when I did the MS conversion, and functionality of other components went up quite a bit as a result of this. In addition, several of those braided ground straps were added in similar points as on the old Chevys and functionality of gauges (ESPECIALLY THE GAS GAUGE) went up quite a bit! While it may not be practical for everybody to star-ground everything, even on a run of the mill daily driver Z, the addition of several properly sized ground straps from the alternator to the block, block to the chassis, and transmission to the chassis (perhaps with a tie in to the firewall and right frame rail ground point of the S30) will make EVERYTHING in the car work a little better due to better transmission of grounds. For a car without sophisticated electronics 'more is better', but as the caveats above point out, sometimes you can get differentials on high end electronics which may drive you to no other solution than to master (star) ground everything to a common point. When we did the LeMons car, we simply put everything to a common buss bar, and tied that to the firewall and the battery negative. Everything had power and ground wires. Basic Circuitry only, but due to everything being tied at one point any troubleshooting was point-to-point and drop through the system was nil. For what remained of the existing original wiring system, this worked well enough to preserve good function in a grueling racing environment of endurance racing. Having a place you know is "GOOD POWER" and "GOOD GROUND" makes tying in something trackside like a Hero Cam or Video System power inverter a snap.

I have a stack of unaccounted 'Lima Puluh Ribu Rupiah' notes form two different employers (talk about poor cash advance accounting!) that are waiting for someone to take them... It's my 'slush fund' when in Indonesia, I have been TRYING to use them up as fast as possible when I visit, FINALLY this will give me something with 'meat' that I can sink a bunch of them into! Sate and Lele doesn't kill a 50K Rupiah note very fast. Even for me. Even when you add the occasional beer or other refreshment. Or 6 friends! It will definately make the travel wallet thinner... I'm waiting on them to reply now. Usually they are into the office within the next couple of hours... We shall see what they say, and if it's going to be possible to make a stop by and see what I can get while there. It's only a matter of time, our guy from Bangkok just got off Skype with me a bit ago and he's up near Balongan. That was supposed to be me. I could be cultivating this place personally now if it wasn't for my mandatory attendance in Pittsburgh last week for 'training'... Ah well, eventually all drones are called back to the mother ship for a recharge and reindoctrination...

everything, everywhere was avaialbe with a five-speed in 79!

Never found a friend with a scanner eh? Or simply never found a friend? I can believe either...

For the USA? Muahahahaa! They existed earlier than 7/73 in Japan Market, and some were actually RS30's as well (bought back and changed to S30's...long story, read about it sometime!)