Tony D

Oh Gawd, a 'thunderbirds' fan in another cloak! If you start getting into animated dolls, then why not claymation as well? And if we get into claymation, then the possibilities are endless... Especially from the early 70's, lots of... er... 'mind expanding' claymations done then. Precursors to todays family fare like Wallace and Grommit. (All viewable annually at Spike and Mikes Sick and Twisted Animation Festival--'Godzilla Meets Bambi, a perennial fave!)

It's the only true test of if your muffler was done right! Turnabout is fair play, right? Now you have a guideline on how to check it!

The funny part about that is I got BOTH my HKS 240mm flywheels via post from a guy in Oz selling them on E-Bay. You may not get stock 240mm flywheels, but the aftermarket stuff is all over the place there! Nissan is VERY standardized with their parts offerings (I liken it to an SBC!) My son's L20B has the old 225mm flywheel off the 240's that I usually throw away. That should hold up just fine in his wagon forever. Fit just fine in the tranny and when it was time to put that Z tranny on there...."like a glove!"

That's what I thought, SECOND POST: http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-132864.html Same as most Nissan Water-Cooleds. The VW was weight grouped. Damn Germans, they take tolerance to a new level. "Ze Diameter ist correct, ziss ist nat zubjekt doo debate! Zee veight is vat vee mus concentrate our efforts upon! Zee veight!" The EXACT bore diameter specifications are found under 'pistons' on this post (imagine what a 30 second google search turns up, eh?): http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/ka24de-t-ka24e/116466-anything-everything-you-want-know-about-your-ka24de.html

Like VW Pistons, they are made to a specific weight range, or bore diameter depending on production tolerances of the tooling (I forget which on the KA). 1, 2, & 3 will determine which grouping they have. Its most important when you buy one piston and need to match the existing one to what you have. Putting a heavier '3' in with a light group of three other slugs may cause an imbalance situation. Having a 1, a pair of 3's and a 2 would likely cause some vibration I'm thinking. If it was bore sizing it related to, then the obvious scuffing and noise issues rear their head from incompatible tolerances piston-to-wall. "They all should be the same, and bore accordingly." This is all in the KA FSM, guys... If you are buying them one at a time, I'd buy two sets of four and have two spares of the correct matched grade in case something went wrong. It's like buying V8 pistons for the Z. You get two spares. So what? Eventually they will come in handy, as either detonation replacements, or ashtrays. Ask anybody who built an engine and then WAAAAAAY down the road broke a piston and needed to get only ONE replaced. Ask them if they would think you buying 6 'and two spares' would be a bad idea... I bet I know what they would say!

tsk tsk tsk, such haters... Go watch some Mickey Rooney movies (or perhaps the Roger Corman Original) and tell the tale once again!

E-Bay George, the seller 'alpha1750' out of Italy has them by the pair. He always has webers and Dells for sale. If you search E-Bay he should come up---they may not be on offer currently, but he usually has some listed in his 'store' section. More than second hand, he offers them with quite an array of rework done to them including normal DHLA's that are prepped for turbo service. I don't think these are the DHLA-M's because he had those too before, but here is a set of two DHLA's with the popular modifications: http://cgi.ebay.com/DELLORTO-40-DHLA-BLOW-THRU-TURBO-CARBURETORS_W0QQitemZ290357781662QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRicambi_e_Accessori_Moto?hash=item439aac249e For a second, I jumped at the price because I thought it was US$... I was going to buy 4! LOL Then it hit me... or should I say it POUND-ed me... D'OH!

Yes, this is what happens in the USA... :^( I would gladly pay a flat tax and ditch all deductions and complex shennanigins. Hell, I'd pay it WEEKLY. I don't think graduation is a good thing, as you hit that next bracket in our system, and end up bringing home less than you did previously in some cases, even though technically you make more. I'd like something simple, where lawyers aren't involved. Where you don't need an accountant to figure out your taxes. Argh, such is not to be in my lifetime. Witholding makes it easier to spend and then justify that retroactive increase... (Been there, done that!) Double ARGH! We should return to on-topic, as I will begin ranting soon! LOL How 'bout them 40 million Sheep, eh? I can emigrate, and have my pick of the lot, right? Make me a haaa-aaaa-aaaapy man! LOL Wine and dine em with my newfound tax relief wealth! he he he he... "EMIGRATE NOW" You think I could make a deal to bunk in Burt Munroe's old place for inspiration. I already urinate on my citrus trees back home in CA, so I should fit right in...

I painted my first car (my 1962 VW Microbus) in an adult education body shop class after school. Sprayed it with Acrylic Laquer in the driveway of the school after dark. Buffed out the overspray. That was 1981. Recently that paint has finally started to check after being parked in the sun of SoCal continuously since moving here in 1989. And then, only in places. My Imron shot car from 85 is black, and still 'wet look' as mentioned above. It was shot in the driveway as well. Fast cure time, wetsanding and compounding 5 years after I shot it took the orange peel out and made it look like glass. I finally had the time to do that when I got laid off (LOL). Otherwise I would have done it earlier! I lamented California's ban on high VOC paints. BUT NOW at Autozone you can again get 'private use cans' of a quart in volume premixed Acrylic Lacquer in basic colors and some light metallics. If I were you, I'd spend the money on that paint and a cheap Harbor Freight Gun, lay on the layers, wetsand your mistakes till it's smooth, and once you're all satisfied, have it Urethane Clear-Coated. Any monkey on crack can spray Lacquer. Sure, it may run, but solids sand easily enough and you jsut knock down the high spots and spray your next coat. You quickly get the hang of it, and painting with lacquer is FAST! I bought a quart to try, and my son prepped the fender on his 510. How this stuff lays down with my old Harbor Freight Gun (circa 1986) will determine if he sprays the car in it's entirety, or just does the primer and prep work, and it then goes to Maaco for the topcoat. If it lays down decently, I know it will survive for a couple of decades of abuse. Lacquer chips, but you got a quart can for touch ups with a paintbrush---trust me dab dab dab, some #600, and buffing compoind and nobody knows it was ever chipped in the parking lot. I love lacquer. And oh man, talk about a "Deep Finish"---all done easily in the driveway, like they have been done for over 100 years! Speaking of 'real fire' we put flames like that on our converted LOX (Oxygen) Tank on wheels when our squadron converted it to a Pig BBQ Device for picnics. Gave it a line number (BBQ001) and reflectorized it properly according to USAF regulations. When the AMU's started calling for it, we simply explained they were 'mistaken' about seeing it, and that no such number existed on our TO&E... We ended up storing it in the shop overnight to keep them from pirating it from us---they used it like it was other AGE---meaning use/abuse and leave it for us to clean up. After the BBQ, we went on to the tool boxes in the shop as well. It gets infectous! Taking the class was a definate plus---and if you're 16, usually the adult education classes are FREE till you're 21 so the local High School may be a good starting point. The local CC may hem an haw unless you have a state exit graduation exam---my son passed his in the 10th grade, and has been taking CC summer courses and evening classes now for two years. Not supposed to be able to do so, but the threat of a lawsuit for 'reverse discrimination' tends to clear up the bureaucracy when it gets thick like that.

We had a Paintless Dent Repair Tech come and do a presentation at our car club meeting. He chose the presidents Z31 to fix (smart choice...LOL) and then spent 45 minutes taking out myriad small dings dents, and etc while explaining the process and showing how it's done. People were amazed, and unlike many people who are slightly insecure about their talent, there were only a couple of people who thought they could do it. The rest were convinced that there was no way in hell they could replicate that work, and a lot of business was garnered that day. With the speed at which the guy worked the dents out, explained the processes, and pitfalls, what could and couldn't be worked in a reasonable fashion it really made sense for many members to have him 'unding' their otherwise perfectly good painted car (in some cases with nice factory paint still remaining) rather than pay money for a respray which is ALWAYS visible. To have a paintless dent removal guy go over a recent late-model purchase, and then take it to a professional detailer (detailer was $350) I flipped what formerly looked like a beat up car for well more than $3000 what I bought if for and paid to have the work done. The paintless dent removal and detailing took two days only because I used separate people, in different counties. It was the difference betweeen a car that looked haggard, and one that looked like it was new off the showroom floor. Firm Believer in the process and technology. WELL worth the money if you have an original classic in original paint that can be buffed a couple of times yet! This was the 'art of metal working' in the final stages before lead and bondo became widely used. You CAN get metal straight. I have hard enough of a time doing it bare. I don't even want to try with the paint still on there! My wife chose a 'discount' PDR guy (not my normal dude---grrr) to do some work to fix a repair after the Boy used the Dually as a fence post mover. If she would have used my guy the cost would have been double, but I would have never known it happened. Now I will have to get my guy to come do some glue-pulls as mentioned above to clear out the dents. I actually will have PDR done before taking the truck in for a respray. Other than the Boy's little dent, the truck was ready. Now back to square one. Find someone by reputation, and prior customers. There are plenty of good ones out there to waste time on a bad one who is cheap!

THANK YOU Z-HAG! Five pages of this, and it takes her to mention the most AWESOME cartoon character on the face of the planet: FRITZ THE CAT People who visit my house are easily 'age betrayed' when I introduce my black cat, simply as "This is Fritz". Some give me 'oh pretty kitty, pet-pet-pet' Others look at me sideways, and do a verbal doubletake: "Fritz?" Meh, just to add one someone might use later on, since I'm a fan of this style of artwork:

At last, a blast from the past! "Junior Member" oh those mods are such a clever bunch. I'm in the same boat, using old 80's turbo technology I was 325-350 when dynoed in 1989 and again in 1991. That was the last time I did it. And that was using carburettors! With what I have sitting in my shed now, the 'reconstruction' is expected to yield at least as much as Hoover is discussing. The ability of a smaller turbo to flow more air and make the horsepower on a properly ported head is light years ahead from what it was 10-15, oe 20 years ago! (Gads, has it been that long????) I have to agree with the last couple of posts, in an S30, that 300 real HP is scary fast. It's also at (IMO) the limit of being usefull around a track. More HP will give you straightaway possibilities, but the brakes are not up to that kind of speed envelope for an extended period of time. I see you mention you are in the PI. That's a big country, are we talking Zamboanga, Metro Manila, or some Abu Sayaaf controlied enclave in some remote island where you are practicing plural marrige and various sundry other things? Corruption in Manila? You don't say... 2,000,000 pesos for a roof on the house and you end up finding out the contractor was using your construction fund to remunerate the local codes enforcement people for other jobs they were 'working through the system'... That's like leaving the immigration stand and they notice you don't have an entry stamp (what was it they stamped then when you came in is your first thought...) Luckily being large and looking capable of eating the average fully grown Pinoy at a single seating with Adobo Sauce, they tend to just stamp my passport and let me be on my way with a 'now you in, now you out!(BIG SMILE)' and the next guy repeats the process...but ends up palming some $ for the priviledge to leave the country. So, PM me with your mobile number. If you're in Metro Manila I'll probably have a couple of days layover coming and going from Brunei in late March and Mid April (coming on PI Airlines via Manila) so if you have a Fairlady Z, we can meet up and have a Red Horse or two!

Ke yu ku ku ku ku ku ku! Take off you hosers! And now my brother doug will detail the bitchen modifications we made to our ride, Doug? Eh, Good day! (Good Day, eh?) First, forget all the stuff you guys learn about car customizing from that other Red Green guy, and take it from the McKinzie Brothers, cardboard and fibreglass resin and some beer is all it takes to customize your car. (Yeah, eh, lots of beer.) Yeah, lots of beer. Cases. Kegs. Truckloads, eh? Oh, and now to comply with communications guidelines, lets repeat this all in French. "Angh Angh Angh, Eh?" I digress...

Yes, there are botique casting repair places that will make the euro manifold in 321SS, but their setup cost was quoted to us at 6-8,000 US$ plus a minimum run. A single part would be much higher. For what you get out of a stock manifold, the talk of the tubular stuff is being relegated into the realm of theoretical nonsensical overkill. I would posit the expansion joints in the Euro Manifold is all you need for extended longevity in a cast manifold. BTW, as to the quote earlier about the 'tubular header being bigger and flowing better' ... WRONG (at least in the case of the Nissan Stock Euro Header...) When JeffP measured my Euro Header against his cut open in the middle of another rework SFP POS 1 5/8" Tubular Header he noted the STOCK NISSAN PART WAS LARGER IN THE FRONT PORTION OF THE HEADER AND MOST OTHER PORTIONS THAT COULD BE MEASURED. A little porting of the head/manifold entrance got that very close to tubular dimensions. If you want something BIGGER than stock, you will need to use something BIGGER than 1 5/8" heavy walled tubing. BTW, JeffP made very caustic and sailor-like comments when this revelation was uncovered. My virgin ears bled, and I fled his Bat Cave-like garage crying he was so foul. You can tell he spent time on a ship when stuff like this happens.

800 HP, on Carburettors... Think about that for a moment. We now have EFI! That seems to be a hybrid system, but 800HP from practical application. This is 1980's technology, boys and girls. As for times, don't know the times. I know in the 80's full bodied ZX's were running 11's with a four barrel draw through system. It was not a big thing in the USA to drag race imports in a pro-arena due to class restrictions. In Japan it was commonplace. If someone did it, they were a 'hidden fish' in the NHRA competition arena. Without a big platform place to showcase technology, it was just a 'non-consideration' in the USA. Comprende, Mate Amigo?

PAYE---much resistance to such a common-sense approach such as that here in the USA. That is a reason to Emigrate to NZ alone. That and the 40 million sheep... It would make my job much easier if I could do it that way. But that 'fixed income' thing is what gets me, like if you make more, a fixed rate shouldn't apply. Argh, it's tax time and I will have to write out another check for the cost of a car. There was a time I claimed 'exempt' and just gave it all to them at the end of the year. Fair is fair, and there were no surprises. And it made me aware at a young age how 'withholding' really snows people. I'd probably say it like this: If I have money left over after paying my taxes, I will probably pour some more concrete to get them off the dirt and onto something that won't be 'breathing' moisture up under the bonnet each morning. I'm to the point in the back yard now where that might actually happen. With the price of metal buildings coming down, I'm going to level a pad, and then depending on the quotes I get (and what the Permit Costs are) I will make a decision on a Container or Metal Building (Roof at least) to get some shelter. Now, if I had all the money my wife and I paid in Taxes to put towards this effort... the local depressed economy builders in the area would have at least one major cash project to build! Oh, and the money is already set aside to paint the blue turd. The gaskets and rubbers came to the house already. I have a four day window in which to get the car stripped and over to the paint shop for work before I head to Korea and Japan for the better part of a month. Then I got maybe a week to put it all back together before I got to head to Brunei for three weeks on a commissioning job. By the end of that...it's MSA time. And then a job in either Canada or Texas. Whatta choice! LOL

Looks like $108 plus shipping from Wolf Creek. Far be it from me to undercut his pricing.

When was the last time anybody here was under full boost for more than a minute, and WHERE so I can go there and do it too!!! Water has a latency effect, you can get better cooling if you know your duty cycle. For a street car with short bursts of the turbo you can get by with considerably smaller components than a air-air deisnged for the same approach temps. There is a reason industrial compressors run water exchangers and not air-air when you get to a given point. The coolers simply get too large and cumbersome. For the time you are on boost, the latentcy of water allows for thermoal loading and then a smaller exchanger to reject the heat between boost excursions will work just fine. For Bonneville, ice tanks rule the day because they get stuff cold. But that's not normal. I'd also put at least a small swirl pot to the high point to add water, deareate the fluid, and act as a suction point for your pump. Ford Lightning pump from Bosch is a nice unit.

On the trip to ABQ one year, working 'sweeper' in the Moby Van (White Chevy G30 Mobile Machine Shop.) I come across a belt laying in the middle of the road, ON FIRE. Make the call over the CB 'EVERYBODY CHECK YOUR ENGINE GAUGES!' Nobody reports anything, as we all ditched at the nearest exit to do a quick underhood check. I look at my wife's 260 (The Blue Turd) and see nothing out of hte ordinary. LAter at the convention our alternator goes away (solder melted off the back of the diodes...) Whilst in there, i notice I'm missing the AIR Injection Pulley Belt. And there are also pins that have machined themselves through the back of the AIR Pump. Seems it just seized, and then the belt got upset and burst into flames as it fell off the car underneath (no splash pan!) It was a distinctive belt the size of the water pump, laying there in the middle lane of the roadway, putting up a small trail of rubber fire smoke... I wish I had a video, I can see it today in my mind's eye! LOL

(Ditto) Waitaminit, you get money back?

alan beet me two it! Dam!

He was typing with five fingers on the keypad, and five fingers...er... well, let's not go there!

Typical Guido lookin' fer a fast buck. I already asked if he has his negative reversed. There are no 'Authentic Fairlady Z's' that aren't RHD. And yeah, they're Watanabe Rims. I sent the ad off to a particularly unstable friend of mine---he goes bonkers when people claim they have a Fairlady since the badges say so. This guy (in the ad) can't really think that, I mean... damn! "WHAT CONSTITUTES A FARILADY Z?" Apparently the presence of the badging. I call "GUIDO!"

John, BE HONEST! Go back and read what he wrote, guys. Tell me EXACTLY what items of clothing he said he was wearing. SUUUUUUURE they were scared by the mask and hammer. Some guy comes out walking with an abberant dwarved leg hangin' dressed in a human skin leather jacket, a welding helmet, and carrying a hammer and I'd scream too! Now remember I basically work out of a hotel. I get insistent housekeeping doorknockers. Loud ones get me to the door right away. You think you're scary, try cooling off in the tropics with only a ceiling fan over your bed... Then this KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK at the door that you don't hear. Groggily waking out of a heat-induced slumber you stand up to face what you think is an opening door and hear this blood curdling scream and say "What he hell do you want?" (Scratch, Scratch)