Tony D

Ahhhh, the thing is the guy didn't post about his car and 'look at me' did he JM? Someone else took a photo taken by someone else of yet a THIRD person's efforts at fabrication and put it on a fourth party website. And from that, someone chose to 'chuck stones at the effort'...I mean READ that original post and tell me it's not low class to start telling someone what THEIR interpretation of THEIR car should be! Talk about arrogant presumptiousness. Telling the guy the 'repower is fine, but...(paraphrased) your car looks like sh*t!' Yeah, and your mother wears combat boots and knobs chihuahas for a nickel and gives change... Same sort of comment. A barfie and 'ha ha' at the end doesn't take the sting out of a poorly mannered outburst that should really not been made at all. Some guys don't like fat bumpers. So what? Like you stated, why pull it up on a post with such a negative connotation, wihout a scintilla of appreciation for the effort that went into it other than 'approving' of the engine swap. I was unaware that anybody needed Akuma's approval for anything they did to their car. Unfortunately, the internet exists to let people voice their opinion, no matter how useless it ends up being in the grand scheme of things. I mean, a guy took two Hyundais, put the second drivetrain in the trunk, and then turboe'd them to boot to make an AWD Turd. Something I never would personally think of doing, but that the guy DID it successfully... I just have to sit back in admiration. I'd thought of something similar, but a twin engined Toranado seemed excessive to me...so I took the donor and put it in a VW Beetle instead. Nonetheless... SILENT admiration if anything. I would consider it extremely poor form to start a post at a website where the effort was brought up and say something like "Man, I hope this isn't one of the members here!" Why not? What is so inherently bad with it other than on person's subjective opinion? What has the commenter done to make his unsolicited opinion worthy of even a moment's glance. Unfortunately when people make negative posts like this, it draws ire from me simply because it's so negative. I didn't say he had to glorify the fabrication, but I was implying that unless he's done something BETTER and had it recognized, perhaps the BEST (there we go again in this thread, me using BEST) thing to do is not comment at all? And you know what they say about opinions and the people that have them... As for removing rotting possum taste, my personal advice is to buy one of those Jaegermeister Chiller thingamabobs that chill it to below freezing. Oh, it goes down so nicely. and after 10 or so, you totally forget about any pain or possum fume eminations from your throat.

The question really should be "can I do this better personally, or not?" hell, for that matter, could I do it at all? Not a matter of WOULD I do it, but COULD I physically do the work at the same level. If I can't, I'll rarely negatively comment. Unfortunately most people haven't been taught that bit of fabricators' etiquette. I mean, you got very good fabrication here, and guys are worried that the personalization touches ruin the total concept. That Venus has no arms does not detract from what remains. I guess we need a post to what is 'best' for grilles that are acceptable for early Z Cars. And which badges are 'best'. And which placement and number of badges is 'best'... BTW, keep in mind this car was at the show the first year the 350Z was introduced. There were still people waiting on their cars and this guy got a 350 (pretty complete apparently) AND an early 240Z, AND put it together to this level by the third weekend in MARCH to be in this show. Badging and grilles aside, guys THINK about what kind of effort that entails. How many people opining negatively have a completed car that is an overall show winner, and how many are in 'permanent project status'? That this car was completed in time for this show, and was driven in from across the valley is a staggering accomplishment IMHO.

Bolting on a set of triples should be no different than bolting on a set of SU's if you have a decent kit. As for long term, I set my jets on time on the dyno in Japan at 56m above seal level, and they have not required changing since 1985...even though the car has been shipped to the States, and operated at various altitudes (and is currently at 700m above sea level). Eventually EFI will supplant them, and I will not loose the sound, the bodies of the carbs make for great ITB's with the addition of injector bungs to the manifold. The power I'm leaving on the table by sticking with a restriction in the inlet (36mm main venturi on 44mm carb) is too much for me to ignore. The myth of triples continually needing attention, or 'more' attention than SU's is one that will be hard to put down as so many people skimp and refuse to do it right the first time. Same goes for SU's...there's a reason they sell a Holley Four Barrel Kit for the Z... Lack of preparation before a conversion always spells disaster. No matter what the project is!

Ive never had to do any of that. If the parts are quality, this is not an issue. I have seen some American Produced castings that people have ground the heck out of to fit, but quality pieces from Mikuini or just about any japanese casting place have no issues whatsoever. Buy cheap.... Make it fit. It's the way of the world. You get what you pay for. Ditch a dremel, get a real die grinder or hand belt sander and you will find your long arduous task takes mere seconds instead of minutes. "Right tool for the job"---in a way goes back to the being cheap as well. It takes forever to pull an engine using five guys, a length of pipe and railroad ties as step stools, about 30 minutes with a rented engine hoist... You make your choices in life, some result in a long, hard, road! If you're stumped by small general machinsit's issues bolting on a set of triples....forget the SBC swap!

could be they left the cores for the water passages alone, or made them larger in the L20A (this one is actually an L20E...)

I like the rotator function being shown. The stripes on the spring rotate nice at speed...

And people scoffed at the contention that BAR reads enthusiasts magazines and then targets owners of cover featured cars with 'random out of cycle testing' on all the vehicles registered at their name (even if they are all late model Company-Supplied Corporate Leased Vehicles)... Yeah, that's why they cover the license plates now. Good to know they're prowling Craigslist now as well! FYI: The seizure clause has been on the books forever. The process for making these swaps legal is so simple it's laughable---a trip to the referee and probably 1/2 an hour for the test. For a compliant engine like an LS1, to not make it a legal swap is idiocy. You can do about anything you want, as long as you report the change. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Now, putting in a JDM L24 into a 1973 back when they were tested? An LT1 Small Block conversion was easier to register!

How long? I worked diagnostics during the late 70's and into the mid 80's when cars has carbs as a rule (mostly domestic American stuff) and drivability issues on carbs are excruciating to cure as most OEM offerings just aren't that adjustable---you got to 'live with it'---even the early EFI stuff was pretty well sorted as far as drivability went. I mean, you could start it at -40C and immediately drive away. Didn't do that with a Quadrajet... Frankly, the reason EFI was so well sorted was to take field troubleshooting and cures out of the hands of the local mechanic. It moved it to simple diagnositcs and component replacement as drivabity stuff was rarely solved on new stuff at a dealership without intervention of factory people coming with test equipment most dealers simply didn't posess. At least in Michigan, in the Big 3's backyard they did... Further out, I suspect lots of people were bolting on Holleys that ran fat and called it 'close enough'...

I prefer Bricktop's speech 'Do you know what Nemesis...' "Good dag!"

perhaps enforcing a little electric shock to the scrote of the poster for each keyword will limit them to the most relevant words applicable... I wanted to take a bat to the guy after scanning the keyword mass at the end of the ad. I would hit him only as many times as he used a keyword. I'm sure he would feel I wasn't being excessive...

I just sent it to the Senior Engineer in our office---he's getting a payment monthly from an Asbestos Settlement. And has old McMaster catalogs laying around like I do!

Sorry, no license, I suspect it's a conspiracy to keep me from flying into the IRS Building... oh waitaminit, that's been done. So why won't they issue it to me... I'm perfectly safe, maybe not before, but I'm feeling much better now. And every day in every way, I'm getting better and better...

The definition is lacking to be able to answer simply. If detonation is not present, then the TURBO and it's pressure ratio/flow curve will dictate how much boost can be made. Especially if the turbo is flowing more than the engine can process. This will eventually raise the pressure in the inlet manifold to a point where the compressor experiences natural surge. If the compressor is undersized, and you don't want to overspeed it...you will reach a terminal boost, and as engine starts consuming more air, the pressure will drop as the compressor flows more air at a lower pressure as it starts its march towards stonewall... In some engines (5.0 Fords for instance) the heads will start lifting off the block due to flex at some BMEP levels.

Gaskets of differing thicknesses is a possibility...

Some places are not so happy to see a post-'o-mine... I like the little yellow and black froggie. I thinks with colouration like that, he's a nasty little buggar... all poisionous and stuff! Totally lickable!

"I know who you are..."

Actually Daeron, MAP (Speed-Density) systems are relegated to specific manufacturers that started with them originally. MAF is far superior in sensing actual air mass going into the engine, and far more common these days. With MAP you have to use lookup tables for pressure versus temperature and cross to engine speed and throttle position. With MAF, 15 pounds per hour is always the same point on the table. Your fuel mix will only change based on scalars such as if you have rapidly moved the throttle, selected WOT, etc... In the industrial world, Mass Flow is the standard for metrology on critical processes. Same in the automotive world. 15PPH is always 15pph. 225KPa can be any number of air molecules, depending on temperature. And AFM was originally AFC (Air Flow Control), at least that's what VW called it when they went from the original MAP based systems used in their cars from 1968-1975, to the next generation of Flapper Controlled systems, which were eventually supplanted by AFM controlled systems. Each was a progressively better and more precise metering system than the previous generation. As for 'too much air' question, it's never a question of too much air, it's ALWAYS an issue of too little fuel. The engine will pump what it will pump, the media you are adding is fuel. You match fuel flow to air flow---that's what the EFI system does. By definition you can't have too much air, only too little fuel. Fuel is the additive to the fixed volume of air the engien moves. Look at a diesel and you will understand...where's the throttle plate on a diesel?

A.D.R., but this statement is obviously coming from someone who never worked line diagnostics in the carburetted era... Having worked then, and watched the widespread adaptation of EFI lemmetellya 'digital diagnostics' are easier than 'analog diagnostics' any day of the week!

Find him. Bring the bat, gloves, tyvek suit, and full face shield. Use it. Burn the bat, gloves, tyvek suit, along with the face shield. Walk away from the fire calmly, in clean, sanitary clothes. Pick up the celphone from the truck stop shrubberies, after making a scene about the bill. Smile every time you think about it... "For Entertainment Purposes Only"

Most of the time, your local gas company will adjust or check your appliances annually for peak efficiency. I have had them come check the furnace for proper combustion in the past. This should be a free service call as well, after that one call per season, you will get charged. Sounds like you used up your annual call for a 'leak check'...bummer.

I'm sure, eventually, the I.T. Department will let me know. When that happens, I'll relay it along...

I have a rotweiller, alsatian, and 18 chickens. I still say I'm SIL when it comes to cheap heating sources. It's gotta be picked up anyway, why throw it away when you can burn it? This is opposed to what I would do in the midwest, where as a compressor engineer I have access to hundreds of gallons of free, drained and clean ISOVG32 mineral oil. "Waste Oil Heater" comes to mind. And plenty of people would love to not have to pay to dispose of their 'oil change residues'... a tank in my truck and I'm set for the season! Why more of my compatriots don't do this is beyond me---dullards I guess. Even if I lug it out in 5 gallon buckets, filling a 575 gallon oil tank in the basement is not that hard with a little electric pump. And the BTU value of lubricating oil is up there... bump your pressure for good atomization, and the boiler works just fine. Free fuel is free fuel. Burning doggie doo is just a quaint past time for winter heat on the back porch in the potbelly stove back in CA just to spite the CARB.

Sucks to be in Oz then... Universally in the USA, the Turbo/Auto pump is the pump that is stocked, and cheaper than the N/A unit! Did you get the KA24 there?

I'd thought they were all gone, driven away forever by the CARB Nazis... But just today JeffP calls and tells me of a place in Santa Ana he visited which has the dip tanks, and does full on chemical stripping of vehicle bodies, along with the phosphate dip afterwards for corrosion / storage protection till you can get to work it. Guy's name is Joseph, and the company is Strip Clean in Santa-Ana CA. www.stripcleaninc.com 5105 West 1st Street Santa Ana, CA 92703-3069 (714) 775-7797 Jeff said there was an early Chevy Nomad in the shop which was stripped on premises. Quotation from Joseph for the stripping of a Z/ZX was $1900, which he commented is now $500 higher due to recent increases in his chemical costs. He's buying the stuff 50K gallons at a time, in three different tanks, and replenishes the tanks quarterly. For all the talk of the places being gone in the area, it's good to know the process of chemical stripping and rust removal is still available. (Mostly rust removal for my concerns...) This apparently is NOT an 'acid dip'---it is another type of chemical rust removal. I have not gone there yet to talk to Joseph to get the details, but the availability (or lack thereof) of this service has been a pain for some people who wanted to avail themselves of the technology. So there you have it!

I was summarily and unexpectedly banished to Sparta IL, and am separated from the pan, Pete... I hope to get back to CA Friday for those photos!