Tony D

It can have an effect on the idling quality...but if it was running before and now doesn't I'd concentrate on what changed. If it was the weather, it may be a sensor. As mentioned, cold start and enrichments can be difficult. I started tuning mine with no enrichments and while it was hard to start the car, once it was warm I could map most everything else, then go back and concentrate on cold start, etc... Good Luck.

Absolutely, I regularly took Toyota 18RG and 2TG Solexes and mated them to Tripple manifolds. The most you may have to get is a proper bellcrank for the applicable side of the carby to mate wit hthe tripple bellcranks and etc... But a fully made up set of 40's for $250... that's a steal. Have him send them down to me in Newcastle/Dora Creek if you don't snag them! LOL (working in the general area...)

If you have access to them, HIF6 or HIF 8's would be an even better choice... I thought the Roadsters had 38mm Hitachi SUs? I think they did, I'm almost 100% positive they did.

"I dont know the Theory, but adding grease or oil cant hurt anything in my opinion, and in my experience It can make the difference of completing the race, or ripping your hair out in the Pit. " I could throw in an example where Intel got reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally upset when hydrocarbons got into their air system becuase someone used anti-seize on gaskets and traces contaminated the system, resulting in $$$ of cleanup and purge. I'm with Woldson on this one: Technology has changed in the past 30+ years, and there are different ways to install stuff now. In many cases people simply don't read instructions and take shortcuts, resulting in leaks. Using anecdotal evidence as a basis for genaral instructions across the board is dangerous as well. Some kid reads 'put grease on gaskets to make them seal' and soon you have a kid with a greased head gasket wondering why it blew out at the fire ring... Generalizations are bad, as a general rule...

Premium fuel, highest possible octane A cold thermostat or none at all <<-- Im thinking of removing the core in mine, leaving a "constant open high flow" thermostat. I'd say flow restrictor at a minimum, but that is for continuous high-rpm usage, for street usage the variable flow capabilities of a thermostat are critical I would not run without one The easy mods: Water wetter -- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RE...5&autoview=sku Higher pressure radiator cap Higher pressure cap should not be underestimated, it really helps, but beware of your under-dash hoses and heater core if you go to the extremes... Octane booster (expensive!) More advanced: RD28 water pump with large impeller LD28 Pump, I don't know if the RD series pump works, but in the #5 cooling thread it discusses the LD Pump, and they are scarce as hens' teeth Only for the extreme: Tap into the cyl heads #4 #5 #6 with seperate water lines to increase flow around #5 It is more to increase the flow in the slowest/lowest flowing portion of the head, and goes together with some other modifications, but as a standalone mod can help with lowering the affected combustion chamber cooling temperature... Reverse flow of the coolant some might call it extreme, some might call it 'common sense'---who puts the hottest coolant on the hottest part of the heat source? Putting cold water in there would seriously cool the head better, and help with cylinder taper and block warming during startup...as discussed... If you run hard, and then drop back and see AFR problems, I'd look at fuel pressure/fuel delivery issues first. The heat may be having some effect, but if it ran before and then you see AFR changes that says you got fuel delivery issues which need to be addressed. It's like a SBC Chevy that runs fine all around town when your dad drives it...but when you lock it in low and do 50, you notice surging over 35mph. Do some checking, find a clogged fuel filter! Fix it, and get a ticket for making those 85mph pulls in second to 'see if there is any other fuel delivery problems inherent in the system'... A plug being to warm may indeed be an issue, NGK 7's, or 8's should be in there, and for dyno runs and hard pulls for tuning 9's may not be out of the question! Burning a hole in the piston sucks, cold plugs only misfire when they foul. Hot ones do bad things...

"if you wouldn't give your kids it then why are you making a living off of it" Yep, Booze, Gambling, and Hooers... all wholesome 'family values' kind of things for legitimate businessmen to engage in...all 'service businesses'...LOL

Drink more water, 'film eyes' is likely caused by dryness. Could be the dust has dried the eyes, or that your tear production is now affected. I think the goggles and fan is a good idea...

My Great uncle Guido was the one Grandpa never talked about. He was NOT like the 'guidos' above. If he pointed at you... well let's just say Tony Soprano had to be role modeled after someone. And being associated with the 'dark people' was something respectable insurance salesmen, legitimate businessmen did not wish to happen. And as for hanging stuffed animals, I tend to recall a lot of people in the USA in the 80's with Stuffed Animals strapped into their cars... Maybe they needed room, and when you stuck them outside in the rain, strapped them to the exhaust, they shrunk? Mine are still on the front seat, belted in as always. Mr. Whiskers is my constant companion...

You don't need a 45 footer to fit 6 z's... I fit 6 in a 40 ft high cube on the first loading attempt! For storage at the house, I'm looking into either 45 or 53' HC containers before the code people get all over me. Putting a roof and concrete in between them was not my original plan, but if the county wants ghettoized construction due to pernicious fees... it's what they will get from me! I'm not in South Africa now, am I? I have access to Holdens, and have been scouring the auto-trader style pubs like crazy. I am lamenting my frivolous expenditures earlier this year... Opals, Holden Utes...something for the Wire and for Me! Emigration is a consideration at this point...

I love the irony of someone on the internet telling someone who is going over 200mph with his current configuration how terrible it is performancewise. That ranks right up there with the guy telling Andy Flagg and Myself how the SCTA rules were geared so that a Z Car could never be a points Champion at El Mirage (the year our car was on the record book...) I believe I was smiling broadly when I said 'yeah, who is the current points champion now, Andy?' Andy was smiling widely as well when I denied knowing exactly who it was, only saying "I think it's car 220"... That guy was telling us about aerodynamics as well (he was going 155 with a 380CID Chevy in his 280, we were doing 163 with the L28...) Yep, ya just gotta shake yer head and smile sometimes! LOL Nice to see the #236 hit over 220. I've met him as well, we discussed his roof chop at the time while waiting in the staging lanes. After all that fabrication discussion, I asked "what about using a 2+2 roof for the added length instead?" You could see the 'eureka moment' in his eyes. Us Z-Car guys need to put our heads together BEFORE a project starts once, just once, so we ALL save ourselves some big headaches! LOL Maybe I should plan accordingly for once and make it an issue to be in the country during speed week... I hear they do land speed in Oz...hmmm...

Then again, how much was your sandblasting worth... I have cash, and the hire car to come to Sydney on a parts acquisition run! LOL

Oh yeah, I see the photos NOW...after cleaning, and missing the first chance to see this manifold in person! Whoodathunk the motel didn't have internet. Telstra mobile, here I come! (Mc Donald's in Toronto is going to kick me out sooner or later!)

Well, I accepted the site rules again (not sure what changed) in order to make this most important contribution: Those photos attributed to me are from Alan T (HS30H). He actually owns that FIA head shown in the first photo. Lucky bastard! His photos continually amaze me. But that FIA head does show what Nissan did to the Non-Crossflow head when put under high stress competition environment. The 'Factory Engineered Solution' as it existed in 1972 (or thereabouts)...

The only thing I would add is the comment about adding a bicycle speedo for more 'accurate' readings. Get yourself a speedometer from Autometer, install the pulser unit from the a 240SX into your transmission, and go CALIBRATE the speedometer if you are interested in ACCURATE mileage readings. The pulser and calibrated speedometer is FAR more accurate than a bike speedo, simply because it's a known distance counting the pulses on YOUR gear setup and tire height. Any change of running gear is a 1-mile drive away from being recalibrated once again. This may be the same/similar as the 'bicycle computer' referred to in the mileage log, but this one fits in your dash like stock and keeps the cops off your butt when you find out your 110kph indicated reading was more like 139kph... Plus, you get digital odometer and 1/10ths readout as well! This reminds me of my mileage competiton days in the 70's with my VW! (52.639mpg best ever in our Ghia)

No load is required, they idle and run just fine the way they are. If you want a 'motoring dyno' to put a break in load on a freshly built engine, using a hydraulic motor in the 20-40HP range, along with appropriate cooler and relief valves will get you where you want to go, but in that case putting it on the end of a functioning transmission would be easier to couple up, and an Automatic would make the loading transients easier to modulate at any given load point. The more access you have to military surplus hydraulics you have...the more elaborate you can get...up to and including a 300+HP test stand for motoring and load testing the engine! But for starting, the bellhousing will work just fine. If you check the HF online and recent mailed catalogs, you will see they offer a engine run-in stand already.....makes mounting your components a no brainer.

Unless this is a Eurospec Turbo the car (if stock) does NOT have an idle bypass screw. IF the AAC valve has been updated to the later style with an adjustable orifice you might get some adjustment out of IT, but it's usually set to a minimum opening for stall prevention on drop-throttle, with the Magnet Valves controlled by the ECCS controlling Idle Speed through modulation of the valve open as a bypass around the throttle plate. If the idle goes up, look for false air bypassing the plate as mentioned.

The obvious answer was make a pattern and cast some new ones yourself out of Ti! :~P

I think the running production change conspiracy is a little bit of over-egging the pudding there. If there is enough call for stuff, it will be out there. Think of aftermarket support crap for Z32TT's. Their production numbers are pathetic compared to just about any US Spec Vehicle. But there was DEMAND for more performance from that little sales demographic. You don't see a lot of hipo parts for a Chevrolet Chevette. MILLIONS out there, a popular car in it's day, but show me the Coil Over Kits. Other than a Narrow-Angle V6 Kit available for a performance engine swap... there's not a lot out there. Because the demand was not there. It's more than production numbers, it's DEMAND for the product and the numbers they can generate. And then you get into 'affordable'---most stuff for the modular engines revolved around supercharger kits in the $4000 range. Speed costs money, how fast you want to go? "Affordable" changes when Ford offers to finance your power upgrade, and to warrant it...

Trust me, if I hadn't blown as much money as I did when Frank was here, I WOULD be loading up a container here with an older E-Series Holden Ute and as many Z Parts as I could fit! As it is, I likely will simply load up a suitcase. But it makes having the loading dock available at the distributor up in Brookvale kind of a waste...

Read the sticky on surge and what it is in this forum. It sounds like stated earlier, you are experiencing a minimum flow surge condition. If you bled some air off when going WOT, even though you are 'wasting' air, you will likely have less issue with the surging. When you pussy-foot it, your turbine speed (and therefore flow potential at the compressor side) is lower, meaning less flow, and less pressure. When you hammer it at lower RPMs, it indeed is possible you are overproducing air for the speed of the engine, so you get boost...but flow across the wheel is insufficient to let stable operation continue.

I only mention the cash payment. I am assuming Lolita did stop by later that afternoon for the "payment in kind"...

That sounds like the motor we eventually installed in my friend's Corv-8 back in '79. Originally had a 350, but got a deal on a 'Corvette 350HP 327' from a friendly JY owner who needed a proven good running 350 for a customer who wanted to 'see it run in a car before buying'... I think we gave the engine and $250 for it at the time. That 327 seemed to scoot FAR better than the truck engine we had, much more revvy and 'nasty sounding'... All subjective, I'm sure, but for two teenage kids doing CorV-8's in their parent's driveway (where the local Chief of Police comes by and writes down the license number saying 'see you two soon') we were not up on empirical measurements... I say sell it to someone looking for a Vette with that number sequence. Advertize in Vette-specific publications/venues. Same for the Camaro Intake. Separate them and sell each for the best offer you can get. I know my old boss paid foolish money for the block with the right numbers to go into his Thunderbolt. Vette people are no different when they want something, save they usually have money to spend! LOL

I'm already fielding questions from people in my club who found out I was in Australia and want RHD stuff to fill my empty 'goodies suitcase'... Hell, my trips to Japan are infrequent...but Nagoya is beckoning at this point!

Expensive? That is why you travel on the company dime, right?!?! I have not found the prices objectionable. Maybe my company controller will...but I don't! LOL Got most of the Paperwork Albatross off my neck today, which should free up some time in subsequent weekends. And I find that on August 21st, Alice Cooper plays the Newcastle Entertainment Centre... so I may have stuff to do afterall! And I've been informed of a big car show in Sydney on the 23rd...whats a couple of hours driving for a car show? I do it regularly in L.A. There, it's only 20 miles in 2 hours. I think the reward for the 2 hours of Aussie Driving will be more than the L.A. drive! Now, if only the customer cooperates and doesn't push for a NOW NOW NOW schedule involving overtime and weekend work... (Fingers Crossed)

nice internship snag!