Tony D

On that statement of having pressures equal behind the radiator and in front of it...the fan will then impart flow. Equal pressures only need flow imparted to them to move air from one side to another. The reason they are overheating is usually poor or little attention paid to the cooling system. If this was a truisim, the L6 would exhibit the exact same characteristics. Many S30 racers, where allowed cut one or two 3" diameter holes in the fenderwells to exit behind the tire (like JC mentions in his rolling donut analogy) on each side. It not only exhausts the engine bay more efficiently, you will notice the FRP hood does not bow out 1" above the strut towers at 100mph any more...

Given the choices of poison mentioned here, I'd pick GM3800 than anything renault. Especially for installation in a 4! (though an early 80's F1 Renault 1500 Turbo could change my mind, were one to come into my posession for equivalent $$$) Baarring that, I'd pick GM. Delorean anybody? The last mix of GM Engineer and a Renault Powertrain. I figure using the Renault Chassis, and GM Powertrain would be a real winner!

If the photo is to be believed, yes, it's a Z432 Exhaust. One for a run of the mill S30 IS STILL AVAILABLE in Japan, and will run you around 70,000 yen, not including the header (another 45 to 120,000 yen depending on your tastes in construction material). This is an immitation of the Z432 Exhaust in 50 mm tubes instead of the twin 60's the 432 used-usually in mild steel as well, and not the 432's stainless. Greddy/Trust, OS, and any number of JDM manufacturers produced them in the day, and now there are companies dedicated to selling 'Old School' parts. My suggestion is you contact Alan Thomas in the UK for his sugggestion on sourcing in your locality. If you were to have access to a breaker's yard in Japan, these parts (which are near indestructible, mine has been on a car since 1978 and was one of the first Trust systems sold!) would see for much less secondhand. Even having access to a real system would lend itself to replication by any competent exhaust-smith... Of course, the stainless steel parts that started surfacing in the late 80's are the way to go, if you can find them.

I would tend to agree with the blowthrough cooling. My triple mikuinis ran 17 unintercooled, and they say it can't be done. Most of the Japanese cars that converted to FI, went with ITB's that replaced the Mikuinis or OER's that they were previously running, and they injected near the same point, not at the port. The guys at Fuji raceway said they had to use either more fuel or less boost or 'bad things happened' so the cooling with the injected fuel even at the same point (or relatively same point) as a carb doesn't seem to work as well. I should put some theromcouples in my intake and check it out, huh? Nice ride, the guy I worked with had a Grand National, until someone wanted it more than he did. So with the insurance money he bought a red vette roadster. I said he was a sell-out... LOL

Sounds like you and I run in the same circles. "I checked everything, and it's all checking good." Book a flight, fly for 18 hours. Stay in a hotel, drive 4 hours to a site in the middle of nowhere...start at square one of the diagnostic regimen...and usually within a couple of easy steps I nail the issue. I then usually get to spend three more days 'proving' why I fixed it, because 'there is no way you could have fixed it that quickly, Qwak is a Masters Degree in Electrical Engineering it must be something different as he was telling us!' Finally it's accepted that I DO know what I'm doing, and I can go home. A week (or more) at exorbitant rates, a roud trip plane ticket, and 36 hours in the air all because a guy can't use a VOM or follow precise testing suggestions. On the way out of the jobsite, I have to restrain myself from yelling at the top of my lungs as the guy repeats AGAIN for the millionth time how hystersis looks just like these symptoms: "Yes, theoretically hystersis in the input filter circuit could cause a problem, but not in this case----this time (and most times) it was condensate filling up the transmitter and causing it to fail intermittently and give bad output. If you had more time behind a digital VOM and less time behind his master's thesis, perhaps you would have understood this when I tried to explain it lo these past several months. If I tell you to WIGGLE the damn thing while standing on one foot balancing a plate on your head, you don't ASK WHY, you just damn well DO IT and tell me what the f-ing meter reads!" *************** Thankfully, I deal with foreign customers for the most part now. Outside of the USA. I don't have to fight with the ludicrous arguments I used to do when I only handled domestic 'distributors'. I feel for ya when you say "tech's that should not be in the business"...

Here in this statement alone the largest potential lies untapped. The horsepower numbers there are about HALF what a properly built L Engine will produce. Say an L28 should be making near 300HP in N/A trim with modest compression (I'm talking relatively...not 14:1 by a longshot). The difference between the 120 HP N/A L28, and the 300 HP L28 is flow..... You want more power in your turbo engine, make the head flow. For so many years people were drubbed by Dr. Bell into believing that 'you just add boost' and you amke horsepower. Sure, that's true, no denying it. But if you want to do it at a LOW boost level, then you have to take the same steps N/A builders have used since time began: Make the head flow properly, maximizing flow into and out of the ports and power will follow. I disregard most characterizations on 'spool' or 'lots' of hp as they're indefinite...they really mean nothing. What is 'lots' to someone may be paltry to another. Most of the time I have dioscussions with people regarding 'turbo lag' it's because they are driving below boost threshold...same as what happens in an N/A with a Cam, sluggish performance till it comes on! And because the boost makes such a difference the effect is much more pronounced! I have seen people take L-Race Heads that were on N/A's for years, and put them on a turbo motor with startling results. A cam change to proper valve event timing, and the flow is just waiting to happen. Power comes from flow. If you don't have flow, you can't make power. Boost is just a measure of restriction to flow...

I bought the entire wiring harness, dash, steering gear including switches, rack assembly, and a ton of other stuff off an E-Bay auction from some guy selling it all for a $9.99 sale minimum ad. I e-mailed him directly for questions on what exactly he had, and that I was interested in buying some major parts from the car. But he would only list them as a $9.99 sdtarting bid price. So I got my spare rack for 9.99, my spare RHD switch assembly (along with steering wheel and specail center button) for 9.99, the RACK for 9.99, and the killer of all deals a cracked but complete with all instruments DASHBOARD ASSEMBLY for 9.99. I would have given him a starting offer of $150 for the steering gear alone, but he insisted on posting auctions and not elevated-price 'buy it now'...sometimes it's either greed or stupidity, but it infects sellers and they do stoopid things. I was willing to pay a LOT more for what I got, but NOBODY was bidding on it. Sad thing is the guy likely had other parts that were RHD particular that I could have put into the hoard if he'd only have sent me photos or allowed me to give him a 'wish list'. I mean, I got the RHD Heater and Blower assy for 9.99! WOO HOO! Pedal Assembly, 9.99.... It was funny and bloody all at the same time! The carnage was spectacular! Muahahahaha... And that guy was out of IDAHO!

I install it as a matter of course. Nissan decided to add it for some reason or another---likely some sort of tunnel flex was noticed. I mean, it's not a real weight penalty at all...

I disregarded the varied speed thing personally. Leaving St. Louis on the 2004 trip I ran into a bunch of idiots in a Dodge Neon. They soon learned that their car had a speed limiter installed. My 260, on the other hand, petered out at 4750rpms...so I just kept it floorboarded till it was time to get gas. 83 ZX Five Speed, Stock Tire Height, 3.70 R180 Gear out back... Come to think of it, I DID vary the throttle position...but it didn't make any difference, it would still only go 4750 rpms in fifth wether I was 3/4, 7/8th or floorboarded. So my deduction was varying the position was irrelevant. For $300, you couldn't buy the gas...

Curious, my 225mm clutch has held up fine in turbo service. It all depends on what you are doing, and what clutch material you use. It's not a 'mandatory' item by any means. The argument can be made that the increased moment of inertia of the 240mm Pressure Plate kills a lot of throttle response in small throttle transients. My wife hates my turbo car, because she says it has an 'on-off throttle'... Muahahahahaha!

The 5 piston Ross Forged Piston Distruction happened at 8.39psi at less than 4500 rpms... We never heard a thing. True, it was at WOT... but you may never know, until you notice the blowby and innocently check the compression or do a cylinder leakdown test (which has become easy, now that Harbor Freight sells a leakdown tester!)

The turbo Automatic pump had the longer gerotor assembly to compensate for the oil cooler and tubing used on that model. Elsewhere in the world, most of the turbo motors got the larger pump as they had the oil cooler assembly wether they were automatic or not. It does not have increased pressure, but flow. The Nissan Motorsports "High Pressure Spring Set" was actually from the LD pump... There are specifications somewhere, but as a rule with any pump, the longer the compression section, the more flow it provides, regardless of RPMS...it's just a matter of physics. The pumps are still readily available and cheap because of their existence on the KA series engines I believe. I know the oil pump gasket is the same on a KA and an L... I don't know of anybody NOT running a Turbo Pump.

Don't kid yourself, you won't ever hear the detonation that kills your engine. Likely, neither will the knock sensor. It can happen at 3 psi or 8, or 25psi. As for the throttle, there is a two-piece linkage that bolts on the firewall that telescopes. They are on the later S30's and fit all earlier models. Using a portion of that linkage, and the ZX linkage it goes together jussst fine! Reaches and everything. Even the 78 S30 linkage should fit. When you swap back to SU's the thing telescopes all the way in and almost hits the firewall, and for the EFI setup you are all the way out. For triples, depending on the manufacturer, you could be all the way in, out, or having to cut the linkage to make a really short one. Keep the portion from the ZX, they come in handy for cutting into the various lengths you need. It's a handy retrofit to earlier cars if you swap manifolds often for development. One linkage almost fits everything, and with a flipping of the removab le piece you can go in from underneath, or with a cut you can shorten it even shorter than stock. I think all the EFI S30's had them. The fit fine into the ZX manifolds. It's what I used on my 260 with the 82 ZXT manifold. I think I used the S30 firewall piece, and the ZXT manifold linkage. But it may have been the stock linkage off a 1977 280Z. Good Luck. Wave to all the guys at Pavillions for me. I haven't made a DZA event in years. Last time I was at a meeting, there was a guy runing up and down the road outside the dealership in his new 240 with an SR20DET with no headlights!

The full dash caps were selling in Japan at one time for 30,000 yen, or about $300---2X what they were here. Ironic, but they were blown here in the USA by the same people who do the LHD Dash Caps, but had an EXCLUSIVE distribution agreement for JAPAN only---so they can't sell/won't sell (as they shouldn't) to people on this side of the pond, they must be bought from the distribution system in Japan. It's why, even now, 40 years later, you can still get S30 pieces from development companies. Support your Z Vendors, when they go you're on your own! I await that Japanese Assignment that gets me a Business Class ticket and all that free cargo accomodation called "Checked Baggage"!

Several times. My $125 Lein Sale 260Z went with me and my 8 year old son from SoCal to Thoiusand Islands (Kingston) Ontario Canada. The Fairlady Z did a similar trip a year later. And we repeated annually. The Fairlady Z was towing a trailer (800#) with three of us in the 2/2. My wife was workign nights at the time, so we literally started the car at 4PM after a graduation party in Tawas Michigan, and drove nonstop from there back home. I made it to St Louis, switched to her driving, then to me, stopped in Amarillio, and next thing I know I woke up outside Flagstaff, and drove home from there arriving at 11AM California time driving 36 hours straight (or something like that). Our longest stop was for a steak at the big texan in Amarillio. Other than that, like the trip out, I would do 3500rpms till I needed gas, stop for a 20 minute gas and dash stop, and drive on. When it's just me driving, I usually drive for 16 hours at a stretch like that. I'd do it again, if I had the time. I have no reservations about doing it in just about any of my Z's. And some of you have seen them. They don't look that great, but they run juuuuust fine!

What does it say that this thread has more views than the 'Hybrid Z Rules and Guidelines, Please Read' sticky present in all the forums? I just noticed that now...

Oh, and Filmjay, check out ECTA, they hold land speed racing events over weekends (all two-day events, which is nice) at Maxton Airfield in Laurinburgh NC. That's less than a 14 hour drive from Mayfield KY, and they get competitiors from as far away as Alabama! Same atmosphere and on concrete!

If 150 is your goal, you should get with the USFRA (Utah Salt Flats Racing Association) they hold FAR more events at the Salt than the SCTA sponsors, and their requirements for the 150mph class are considerably less than going the full on dedicated race car approach. There is a guy in SLC that is prepping his street-driven S130 for their 150mph touring car class for that very same goal. It's a much easier way to get a feel for the car at speed, do it on the salt, and have several attempts a year to do so. It's the Utah equivalent of us SoCal guys running at El Mirage to prep for Bonneville each year. To have a dedicated race car is one thing. To have a certificate for your street car that says you have officially gone 15X.XXX Mph on Such-and-Such a Date, as certified by the USFRA... HOW COOL IS THAT? Curiously, all those guys with 'Stock 160mph 240/260/280Z's' have never taken me up on the opportunity for me to pay their entrance fees at an USFRA event to prove me wrong about the speed capability of a STOCK (or triple webered and lowered) 240Z... Hmmmmm... I digress... Seriously Though, check out the Utah Salt Flats Racing Association for information. It will only infect you further, though. Lets not lie about it. Once you get it, there is no cure...

Being here in Morocco makes me have a penchant for fitting a Supercharged Buick 3800 Gen3 Suipercharged powertrain in the back (or wherever) of an old Renault 4. Much as I love gas mileage, these unclean thoughts just creep up, and I don't know how to stop them!

The LZ22 was not a DOHC engine, it was SOHC. There was a DOHC "LZ" Engine for racing in JDM, which used the standard block, not the later NAPS-Z Block which is differentiated by the serial number pad being in a different place, amongst other things.... A photo here would be worth the money if it's a real "LZ" head, and not a "NAPS-Z" head. Which many Americans mistakenly refer to as an "LZ" head... The LZ head is DOHC. The NAPS-Z head is not.

Other than grossly multiplying the emissions out of the tail pipe, you won't notice the difference. But your 'where' says 'NorCal' so your emissions laws DO say otherwise!

The first photo appears to be Mike Mika's car, the one we copied in our attempt to break their record set in 75. Question is where did you find these photos. They would have been invaluable during the protest discussions, and are now downloaded to my hard drive for printing and putting into the three-ring folder we keep with the cars white book (you know the one...) If either of you could give me more links so I can view these photos from their original sources, it would be appreciated. It was pulling teeth at Isky to get them to turn loose the F/P 280 Coupe photo that was there---but the signed and dated information on the BACK of the photo was more important to us than the photo itself (I had taken current photos of the car in the Nissan Museum). Didn't expect to see either photo! NEAT! As far as 'live by the parts hoarde, die by it... 40' Sea Containers move with the ground. If you know how to pack them, nothing gets damaged in an earthquake!

Al Bundy on the perfect woman: "She would have three hooters. Two in front, one in back. You know, for dancing!"

The parachute was not on the car in that photo. It's not required for the G/PRO record attempt (was around 141). The pipe and roller (which is what you're seeing) is for the pushbar on the chase vehicle to push the car off the starting line, and when you're recovering pushing it back to the pits. The size is due to having some 1" foam and shag carpet wrapped around it. Without it, you WILL swear and likely seriously injure yourself walking around the back of the car quickly one time, and get caught RIGHT BELOW THE KNEES with that damn thing! With the padding and carpet on there, it's just an 'Oh yeah' moment. When it's just the piping bare...well, it doesn't feel good at all... The parachute we have is as JGK showed, and goes on a separate superstructure that is not installed (but you can see the holes for it in the bumper...) As for "Mr. Fluid Dynamics", he needs to do more than read the results, he needs to read the extensive conversation that Alan Thomas added in regards to the G-Nose "As Tested in the Wind Tunnel" compared to what a real factory Nissan unit looks like. Yeah, they put them all over cars in Japan for the SCCN Races because they weren't functional. Go back to tending your outdated Eagle. FYI, take a look at the airframe design date on that pig. The McDonnel Douglas Assembly line was pumping those out when people were still listening to disco. That's not a 'new' airframe by any means. Hell it was over 10 years old when I worked on it...24 years ago!

LOL, I just realized I started this thread! LOL Great to see someone involved with the car responded and is sharing their experiences. I totally forgot I posted this when I saw the car's number and name in the record report this year. This is a 'Red Hat' affair. I bow to those with the Red Hat. One day, I too will have the Red Hat. Till then, I intently watch and learn.