Tony D

In the 'old days' the HF 1 Quart Siphon Gun was a direct knockoff of a Binks #7. I swapped Binks fluid tips onto the HF body for fine work, and left the HF heads on when spraying primers and anything that was catalyzing and could plug them up. For primers, I haven't shot anything but HF guns for years now simply because for the price it's almost worth it if you get a little slow on the cleanup and it get's plugged up... For topcoat I still have one original HF Gun with Binks Tips circa 1985, my Binks, two Iwatas, and now a gravity feed HF Gun that I really like for door jambs since paranoia about not being able to get parts for my Iwata here makes me reluctant to use it on anything catalyzed.

Oh, well you're still ahead in that you don't need a phase converter. I got mine for what I will say is an 'equivalent' of $200 since I picked up four pieces of shop stuff for $800 total. Plus something I didn't want/need but sprprisingly my wife got all stoked that I had some (Pallet Racking and mezzanine). What I wanted was their Lathe, the Jib Crane, and the Trinco Bead Blaster. I neded up having to take their Bridgeport and the 20X24 Mezzanine/Pallet Racking as well in the deal because they wanted it all gone: "All or Nothing for that price, Bub!" I went with "All". Pricing this stuff afterwards, I'm finding the parts are actually pretty smokin' deals. And since I know the provenance through the past two owners they are not something the Police will come asking me about, either! (A PLUS!!!) Now to sell off the Bridgeport. One of those, I got! (And still haven't hooked up---that phase converter thing!) Ran the conduit, just need the wires and converter now and I'm ready to go machining crazy.

Like mentioned, the post catalyst O2 sensors aren't the issue. It's the dual O2's BEFORE the catalysts that adjust fuel mixture, and how the ECU reconciles the signals given from each bank and adjusts accordingly that may be the issue. This is why JeffP selected the single O2 sensor version. Sure, it's Consult and not OBD2, but will it really make that much difference in practical application? Now, if you were fitting a GM ECU to the inline Nissan, I'd go for the OBD2 boxes, they have very sophisticated self-tuning subroutines and are already thoroughly aftermarket cracked for any adjustments you would care to want to make!

You forget what crowd you're addressing. As fast as you think you may be, there is ALWAYS someone faster. And you need to yield right to let them pass! (Or left, in Alan's case!)

They wouldn't give an interim pair of corrective lenses in the meantime? Strange in the land of fruit and nuts. Well, at least you know what or where you stand. Sucks to have to wait for some healing to go back in again though. They are doing this under warranty right? Ask for some discount on the bill. Laugh when you say it so they don't get mad, but put it in his mind that 'compensation' should be in the back of their mind. Something for not hitting it for at least a single on the first attempt. Keep us updated.

Cast a filler neck! Muahahahaha!

Oh, I'm sure spoofing the rear O2's is the way to go... the real question is about the pre-cat O2 sensors. It's fine for a header system if someone wanted to separate the L engine into 'two banks of three' but for a turbo application, short of Twins... it may be difficult to reconcile the twin O2's in the circuitry if they get a bleedover pulse that doesn't jibe with the rpm indicated for operation---false spike for cylinder firing---am I making any sense in what I'm trying to say? At least with JP and Bernard, the single O2 box seems to be more (er...) in-line with the requirements of the L-Engine...I don't believe there is as much spoofing of signals as you would think. Drive the cam position sensor off the old dizzy drive and you're most of the way there with a pre-made housing from an old ZXT. Jeff mentioned several models he looked into where their camshaft or crankshaft sensors rotated the same way as the OEM 280ZXT dizzy arrangement, so they were 'the easy ones to use' (his definition of easy, not mine!) BWAHAHAHAHA! Seriously, though...

I wonder how that works when the bayonet is engaged? Perhaps the valve is a 'suction/vacuum break' that is activated when the bayonet is being removed from the filler neck allowing for easy removal of the cap. While fully engaged on the filler neck--perhaps it's sealed. That would make sense. In the 240 with the flat filler neck there was a 'woosh' when the cap was disengaged---the reason the neck sucked down was they had plugged the EVAP line up front. The Vacuum Break Theory sounds like the explanation that would be most plausible in that case. I always assumed it was air rushing past the outer rubber section of the cap, but an internal relief would make sense. Pull a filler neck and check engaged and disengaged moveability of the center flap, Derek! LOL

Just watch what lubricants you use in your compressor when using plastic piping. Some plastics are incompatible with PAG or PAO compressor oils, and if you start sending oil down the line they can crack, or catastrophically fail under pressure. Same goes for polycarbonate bowls on FRL units. If you have good filters on the main pressure vessel leading out to the system and service them religiously the plastic piping should be fine as long as you keep it out of sunlight. The Legris Company makes a line of fittings for HDPE (Polyethelyene) piping and tubing for use in Pneumatic systems that is very nice, and compatible via all sorts of threaded end adapters. A suitable compromise is like Dr hunt recommends: Run your main header of a large diameter properly sloped for drainage metallic pipe of 1" diameter, with multiple taps out of the TOP of the pipe each with a ball valve to isolate it. Connect that with your main pressure vessel via a flexible bellows or Aeroquip line. Then run all you sub circuits with the plastic piping. Ideally you would regulate down to work pressure from a SEALED source of supply, that way any leaks are at lower pressure and cost you less air loss over time. I could go on and on about this stuff.... There are cool aluminum QD piping available now from I-R (Simplair) as well as others that make plumbing a system fast and leak free. http://www.transairaluminumpipe.com/?gclid=CLumx6S5m5gCFQkzawodbgmXmA http://www.apspiping.com/ http://www.copelandindustries.com/products/SimplAirSLbrochure.pdf.pdf

Absolutey not! It's a pricing game. Most here probably catch these kind of things. But Joe Sixpack (er...for instance my brother) going out to buy a tool set because they are going to do some weekend work on the car will see the price on the glossy pages and buy it for $10 more than what it's listed on pulp page 68 of their catalog. Get enough people doing that, and you have a nice profit. All because someone didn't take the time to look closely. It's the old 'concentration' game. "Where did I see that thing before?" You think you saw the Caliper elsewhere, but for a cheaper price. Most people assume it's GOT to be a different item, because of the different price. But then you realize the SKU prefix is identical and the suffix changes according to price. It's actually a very sophisticated way to track where someone is picking up information from before they buy. It's like buying Crescent Wrenches from Sears: You can buy the 3 wrench set containing an 8, 10 & 12" wrench for $19.99, but the individual 12" Lists full retail for $23.00. Joe Sixpack goes in needing a 12" Crescent, and thinks "I don't need no three wrenches" so walks right past them, never checking the price. Picks up that 12" and heads to the checkout, never knowing that he just lost two other Crescents in the deal! (Again, with the same part number on each handle!!!) I haven't bought a single Crescent Wrench from Sears in years, and even then my kid and wife manage to make off with those 8 & 10" wrenches like they are popcorn at a theater!

Absolutely! I retrofitted an L28 block into a 1977 Fairlady Z that used the P65 L20E manifold (that curvey runner job that goes around the plenum with a two-barrel pregressive throttle plate). Using the L20ET fuel injectors, the L20 AFM, and that plenum the L28 was VERY torquey at low speed. Matter of fact, punching it in second gear at 2500 rpms would break the tires free for smoking donuts. Which the owner of the car enjoyed quite a bit. I demonstrated it for him, then let him do it several times to show 'there wsa not a special driving style' that I was using. You punched it at the rpms you mentioned (2000-4000) and that thing just WENT! The engine was 'all in' by 5500, though. No high end power to speak of, but below 4500 that thing was VERY responsive. This was just that small runner manifold on a stock N42 / N42 block and head setup. The only thing I could figure was the super-small runners had such a high velocity through those runners, dumping across an anti-reversionary step into those bigger L28 N42 head ports that it didn't allow any reversion of the fuel mix at all, and just crammed fuel and air into the cylinders at the lower speeds. For a street engine, I'd do it again (like for a wife's car) in a second, if I was able to get that L20E manifold.

The 1/4" line on the 'driver's side' is for the EVAP system. The 240's all used crankcase accumulation for EVAP control. That line went through a flow-diverter valve and either vented pressure from the tank to the crankcase through a fitting on the big line in the side of the block, or allowed makeup air from the filtered side of the air cleaner to go back to the tank to accomodate the dropping fuel level. I have not investigated the 'vented cap' but if it was a one-way valve that may well be workable under EVAP restrictions at the time. It for sure could not let anything vent out. And from an early 71 240 I personally witnessed suck down the filler neck flat...it has to be the gas cap 'with ears' that has that kind of device present. I just don't know why they would bother with the EVAP Filtered Air setup if that was the case though---a one way diverter valve would have been much cheaper, as the makeup from the cap would be more than enough.

Sad incompatibility! The end mounts are for the 38MM SU, and the center is for a 45mm SU. Who in the world cuts up a 38mm SSS manifold for such a conversion when the larger units are available? the 510 crowd will howl over that decimation of a vintage part... I know I am. Odd way to go about it for sure! What gets me is 'Super Rare JDM' and then 'Fabricated' being in the advert. The 'nice period modification for your 240' stands out as well. Seems to me period modification was either a 390 Holley, a Turbo Tom's Kit, or Triple Mikuinis... And to think this guy is in Devore, not 20 minutes away. Out of principle I should go find him...

JeffP and Bernard have been using Maxima ECUs from the VG30DET---which is coil on plug (I want to say 92-94). Thing is you need to find an ECU that used only ONE O-2 sensor on a V-Engine, and that's pre OBD2. If you want to put two sensors in a divorced set of header collectors, and then run a dual exhaust with four catalysts for full OBD capabilities....feel free, but I'm not up on the configuration of all that mid-level engineered stuff. I could tolerate the divorced headers and two O2 sensors, but the full on OBD quad sensor dual cat systems really won't be giving you anything more than what the earlier systems give you in terms of flexibility.

This show was taken after feasting on 'dutch oven pizza' which is particularly decadent... For some reason I can't find my fullsize photo anywhere... We're loading stripper clips of 7.62X39 and my son is wearing his 'Crazy Debbie's Fireworks' shirt.

Hmmm, interesting claim. Anything to support that claim? What is the F/GALT record at Bonneville currently, and what vehicle holds it, and at what speed? With a screen name like that, I'm sure you will be able to easily answer the question... Just for the record. Obviously some of the above claims are B.S., but that statement bears investigation...

I stopped buying air fittings there after a run of poorly fitting Amflo Knockoffs. Either they wouldn't fit into the standard Amflo fittings that were on my hoses already, or they leaked. Sad, too, since I liked their brass fittings, if you dropped the tool by accident the brass fitting usually took the hit and you simply replaced it. But I agree on deadblow hammers for sure! And stuff I'm going to abuse or convert to a 'special tool' sends me straight to HF for whatever I need. Of course, Air Tools from there as well. Since I already have a Swagelock 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2" tubing bender, cutter, & reamer (courtesy of a refitting job I had to do on the Hospital Ships Comfort and Mercy where tool cost was built into my quote...) I don't think about tubing benders the same any more. I ended up having brand-new Rigid Benders of the same sizes given to me, and they were put into my 'loaner' tool box---you know, the box that you lend out because you know likely you're never getting them back? The Swagelock Benders spoiled me for all other benders!!! At around $247 each 10 years ago, they should! On engine stands: buck up for the heavier-duty models when they go on sale. I have had a 750# for years, and just noticed that it seems to be sagging 'nose down' with the L28ET that has been hung on it for a while. Haven't checked into it closely yet, but it surprised me to see the different attitude compared to the others in the storage container.

Niiice! Probably a bit more practical than the one I just picked up: 12X48 Cincinnati Milacron. Broke out one of the tie-down lugs in the sea container monkey-swinging it into position! At least you won't have to run a Phase Converter to use the thing... But for the price, I couldn't turn this one down. But your 'price' sounds like a much better deal than even my find!

The question for me is: "Where did you get those stainless steel injector clip bungs for the rail?"

It sounds like you have formerly had an L20ET in there---that is the description of a CAS plug. If you are converting to larger displacement N/A (about the same power as the L20ET) the computer from the L28 and wiring harness may be the quickest and easiest method to sort the wiring. It's a sub harness that detaches, and the interface between each of them should be easier to figure out. Short of that, you would have to put the L20 Dizzy into the L28, including the drive spindle (drop the swaybar and oil pum---not a big deal) and then run the L20 Electronics complete. The injectors for an L20ET are the same as the injectors for an L28E, so that is no issue. The L20E or L20ET electronics will fuel an L28 in stock N/A format with no issues whatsoever. I have done that swap in the past with good results. It's just omcinv the sensors and stuff from your L20 to the L28 so you have the correct inputs for your original computer. Big thing is the AFM---the L20ET will scale properly on an N/A L28 with no modification. If it was only an L20E, it would tend to run out of flow scaling a tad early, but it's workable, and a very torquey setup even wit hthe smaller AFM. Good Luck!

That will get a listing on some website in regards of 'things people eat that you never thought could be worse for them, but someone figured a way to combine them and make them both edible and worse for you!' Then they will suggest that instead of eating it, you just pump a round in your head to save time! LOL I believe fettuccini alfredo ('Heart Attack on a Plate' as my wife says) has just been supplanted as something I could eat in front of my wife to shock her at my 'bad food consumption'....

If you can't find pickled tripe in Texas, youi're not looking hard enough! I know it's available in ElPaso. Now, Red Sulfite Dogs? Convert to the darkside and just mainline mercury instead.... LOL

THe question is really is it 'improper metalurrgy' chosen by current manufacturers, or simply them choosing stuff that should have been O.K. but now isn't because the oil changed??? I know people 'in the old days' that always re-used their rocker arms, and NEVER had a problem. The oils have changed. We know why they changed. It just gives less margin than oils of old IMO. I would never have re-used rocker arms, but people did it all the time in Japan. Never lunched a cam. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... Sure the I-Net exaggerates it. But it's a known shortfall of the 'new improved oils'....Adding ZDDP is now the equivalent of using 'new' rocker arms when you change the cam. It's something that wasn't formerly an issue, but 'it was a good idea just in case'... For the price of the additive.....cost benefit analysis anyone?

It seems to me the BMW stuff was available in fingernail polish size bottles... Apply with Q-Tip or the like sponge applicator...

That is the old style VICTORIA BRITISH/LONG MOTOR COMPANY (now Black Dragon Automotive) NON-OEM windshield weatherstrip. My 73 has the EXACT same issue at the corners. It does not leak, it just looks like hell. I don't know if it was the weatherstrip, or the way the weatherstrip was installed. I do know it was NOT a 'bad repair' to that section of the roof... that's a red herring in my cars case at least. The ares should be smooth though---there has been bondo or something in that area to make it rough in the windshield recess at the roofline. It did not come that way from Nissan. They were very good on their fit and finish of panel joints. Chances are it would be covered by a properly applied weatherstrip. You can use on of the 'bondo magnets' to check for thickness easy enough. What I would be concerned about is if it was a rust hole repair. Though in CA that should not be an issue. My 73 and some 71's are the only windshields I've removed. I've not seen an early 70 window removed to know for sure that the uneven area in your photo was while they were 'learning' how to set up the joints. i doubt it, but there is that possibility. How many 70's do you see for sale any more? And for how much? In the grand scheme of things it's not a big deal in my book, it would not be a deal breaker on a $2500 car. Maybe on a $5000 car, but not for a lower price... Anything needed to properly repair it is easily available.