Tony D

You have defeated the design of the JTR kit installing it 'as designed'. They don't 'go backwards' for a RHD car, either. What the JTR kit does is move the engine in the chassis BACK and TO THE RIGHT for better weight distribution. With a RHD car, what you end up doing is concentrating weight on the right side of the car heavily because of driver's position. The JTR kit moves the engine to the right to somewhat offset the driver's weight in the LHD chassis, as well as give some clearance for linkages on the transmission chosen. On an RHD car, you would expect the mounts to move the engine back and the the LEFT, but this MAY result in linkage issues/clearance issues depending on the transmission setup you have. You MAY have no other choice but to use them 'as is' to keep clearance, but if you wish the proper L/R weight distribution, moving the engine to the left porportionally in respect to vehicle centerline as the original mounts moved it right would be the ideal situation. The movement back is of course to get any weight penalty from an all-iron engine in between the wheelbase so as not to make steering effort unbearable. If you can make a Caddy Powered S30 steer lightly by moving the engine rearward, that advantage is in no dispute!

I agree with Stony, I get a charge out of kids claiming to have been doing 'drifting longer than anybody else' because they started in go-karts...all the while seeing from their profile they're someplace in their early 20's... I think Stony and I must have been at the same streets and the track up in Nakodomari to watch those competitions...which were old hat in mainland japan by that time---there were shop owners in Oki at that time (The 80's) in their 30's who had been doing it since they had their driving licenses. I sold my 77 Fairlady Z to the owner of Car Shop Saku-Gawa (sticker on the side of my rollaround tool box) who was bigtime drifting. So here in the USA...it's 'only' around 15 years old, but in Japan, it's easily 2X that age as a definable sport and 'thing to do'. Most people poo-poohing it have never seen a top tier event in person. I watched a lot of topnotch auto-x'ers drop their jaw when they saw what actually goes on, and at what speed. It's more than slipping a car sideways around a corner. Many of the technical sections happen on straight sections with apex cones set up. And when more than one car is on-track in the finals, with each one trying to trip the other one up... Just a fan of the 'fad' for the last 25+ years....

Filled up at the Union 76 Station right on Century Blvd leaving LAX (and after 65 days of sitting, and getting covered in ASH on the roof of the parking spot, the 260 started right up...WOO HOO!) for $2.35 Super, it was 2.05 for Regular. And this is not the cheapest gas in the area by a longshot. Frankly, it's probably some of the most expensive...but the car was on "E" and I wanted to get home after being on planes for over 36 hours. All was well till 6 miles from the house when the LR tire took a dump from some large metal debris in the roadway...ended up at home by 9pm. Left LAX at 4:30...

The Centrifugal Supercharger has been successfully applied to the L6 engine. There was a guy in the SF Valley that had a wicked supercharged setup. MSA looked into his setup, which was very sanitary (SC mounted where the aftermarket A/C pump would up by the fuel pump area above the alternator.) Car was wicked-quick. Very nice application. I don't know that I took photos of it at the old OutcaZst meeting or not. he showed at MSA a couple of years, and then dropped off the radar. It was a mustard-brown early car, SC was a small Paxton if I recall. Hell, make your own out of a Magnesium Toro Leaf Blower Impeller, it's two-sided, has tons of flow, and when you decrease the tip clearance from the handheld blower tolerance to something more akin to a turbo (in the range of 0.050-0.100") you can boost that baby over 15psi easily. Fun project for son and dad... I digress...

Is that the case on this head as well? My first thought was 'what is the valve stem height'? There is a specification for it, and that is what lash pad thickness is predicated on in conjunction with the base circle. If the valves are suck too deep (as 1fastZ suggested) you will never get the lash needed. A thinner pad is not the way to fix this, it may initially give you running clearance, but wipe pattern likely will be askew, as well as closing up as the engine runs in and you're screwed! Check valve stem height. If it's not correct, get the head builder to do the job correctly, and if that means he ruined a set of your seats by grinding on them and sinking the valves too deeply, then he needs to put in a set of seats and grind them to proper depth/height. Usually the problem with a reground cam is excessive clearance, not too little. Too little is almost always valve stems sitting up to high. You might be able to shim the cam towers to get acceptable clearances back. The cam to crank distance needs to be maintained, there is some tolerance there if your head hasn't been milled any... But the valve stems all need to be the same height for a proper vavle job.

Imagine that, a guy from Toronto queueing Rush to make a point. LOL "But the Oaks ignore their pleas!" he he he he

THe shipping company won't ship it as household goods? Or they won't ship a spare engine with your car? There is a big difference. It's not uncommon for guys to ship a spare engine through the military by bolting it into the car some place...as said, the passenger's seat area is a good place for it. I know someone who shipped four engine blocks in his household goods by bolting 1" thick lexan to the top and calling them 'end tables', I have seen Viper Blocks used as 'Wine Racks'... But failing shipping it as part of your current car, how far are you from your maximum allowable shipping wieght? When I moved, it was $1 a pound to ship my crap from my last duty station. I would have been far better off shipping it as parcel post to my forwarding address. It would have gotten there quicker, as well! Shipping it on a pallet should not be more than a couple hundred dollars, of course 'free' is better, but... I'm assumping from the above banter you're in the Navy (bremerton is another hint) and you guys got a baggage allowance for an E4 that was more than flag officers in the USAF, so that baggage limit may not apply. If that is the case, CRATE THE ENGINE. If it's crated, prepackaged, and ODORLESS (meaning drain it, clean it well, and then wrap it in rags and bags) they aren't going to open it, they will just load it in the moving crate. I had suspension members, GAS TANKS, I mean, you name it, I had it in my household goods. No, they won't ship vehcile parts. But they will ship crated items. High value crated items that you didn't want to risk shoddy shipping practices employed by local lo-bid government contractors, so you had it crated yourself. When pressed, as above, you tell them it's a "Cast Bronze Lawn Fountian-Style Ornament, 450#" Or perhaps "Livestock Watering Trough"...

1) the article is about SSS FOUR CYLINDER flat-tops, a different animal than what you have. 2) you have the 'triangular piece of metal' I see it in your photos. The Non-USA 38mm SU Flat-Tops were basically Round Tops with additional circuitry for total closure idling. Meaning the throttle plates were totally closed and a separate circuit fed fuel and air to the carbs. What the page does is ham-handedly disable the circuit, and then make the superior later-model carbs act like the earlier round tops. If you understand what those carbs do, altering the idle circuit jet drillings allow for a perfect idle situation, while keeping the needle and jet in the main body rich for best power off-idle. YOUR flat-tops have an integral float bowl below the throat, an FSM is invaluable to understand how to get them set up out of the gate, and then move from there. They have the same advantage that the idle circuit is totaly separate from the transition/main circuit so you can 'lean out the idle' for emissions while still having a decent needle taper for power. It's why so many of these carbs are raped and only their needles taken, they are a different taper and provide nice power when used in earlier roud-top SUs' The power valves as well as some diaphragms on the side of hte carb are suceptible to damage from backfire, and will make them run rich. But all facets of troubleshooting/rehjabilitation is covered in the FSM, start from there and you will get a car that runs decently.

Good to see someone else got the same kind of response as I did. Strike that, at least someone talked to him. Or got their calls returned...

Filled up at Petronas in Jakarta, and for some reason it was only 5000 rupyiah a litre ($1.46 a gallon) for 95 Super unleaded.

I'm sure the guys running the equipment may have another idea about who is 'running' the site, but it's always that way! Yes, sitting behind the computer all day is not for some people... That is for sure! US Army Corps of Engineers. USAF. US Navy. Take you pick. And millions is only the beginning. Heck, you can be in charge of mulit-million dollar pieces of equipment within 8-10 months of graduating high school if you go the route of uncle sugar! If that was you goal, I could have saved you a couple grand on tuition and books. The lab fees would be substituted for beer. :tongue:

Go back and read that article again, if the thing ignites at BDC, it's preignition, a wholly different thing than detonation... As for a Diesel, you are confusing spark ignition with heat of compression ignition. A diesel has NO fuel in the compression chamber before the point of Ignition. Ignition happens when you take 17:1 compressed air at a heat of around 600F+, and spray in your fuel. Which ignites from the heat present, and burns from there. Spark ignited engines, on the other hand are compressing a fuel/air combustible mixture. And the more dispersed the fuel/air is, the easier it is ignited and the faster it will burn. If you think it will burn better compressed, think about it like this: When Sherman went through the South, the first thing he did was find the local flour mill. He sent his men to get sacks of flour, and take them to the rooftops of the buildings along the main street, where they would cut them open and flay the flour out into the air to waft down to earth. They would then chuck one stick of dynamite into the middle of the street amid the flour-fog, and BOOM! The entire main street was efficiently dispacthed. Now, stick a single stick of dynamite in the middle of 50 sacks of flour and set it off and see what it does. (Not Much...) That's a rough equivalent of the piston at BDC with a combustible mixture present, and the piston at 37 degrees before TDC with a compressed, combustible mixture present. It's the pressure trace of Preignition that will get you. You can see when it starts burning, and as it burns it expands---sure, it's burning slooooowly, that's why it's usually silent. This expansion happens while the space for the expansion is getting mechanically smaller. It's why they call it the silent killer. Think of it as hypertension for your car. Detonation is when the expanding gasses are rapidly burning, faster than the piston is going down (expanding) and that pressure spikes. While it's a pressure spike, the volume available for expansion is expanding...far less potentially damaging than preignition when the space is mechanically decreasing.

Trailing airhose? HARDLY! Use a SCUBA Tank! 80 Cubic Feet of air---enough for one minute of operation of one of the 4HP Chainsaws with a high-flow two-stage regulator and 8 Bar requirement... Heck, you can even get em in aluminum so the smaller homicidal mainiacs can move into disembowelment via power tools as well! ****************************** As for the S.C. Redneck comment, there is a visual image that comes to mind of the corpulent good-old boy that doesn't move that fast... What I was getting at is two guys that fit that visual discription, and who were relegated to 'light duty' because of on-the-job injuries got more done in a day that a crew of 22 did here in three! Appearances can be decieving. Work ethic has a lot to do with it, sit on your hands long enough and you start to crave getting something anything accomplished. Those guys had been pushing mops and brooms around (millwrights) for over a month when I got them assigned to me because of some scheduling difficulties. Frankly, given the way they worked, I think we could have gotten the whole thing done in four days had they been 100%! Though I will admit, it DID take them 24 hours (that's three 8 hour days, guys!) to change the oil in the machine...300 gallons. Now, I guess 24 hours spent on oil changes in 20+ years of running really only works out to less than one hour a year on oil changes...but I would have preferred that it all didn't have to occur when I was at the jobsite! LOL They wanted to 'make the job last' when it became apparent that the work wasn't that strenuous, and it was WAY better to be in yoru dickies and twisting a wrench slowly than acting like some ersatz janitor to fill a slot because you're on restricted duty... And since I was on a special rate for the job...I was not too quick about lighting a fire under them at the time. I guess I got some redneck in me, too! LOL

If I was viewing this in California... The black helicopters would be circling by the time I typed this! I think even looking a Supressor Porn is against some law there. My kid was SO disapointed when the .50 Cal ban went into effect. We had picked out a 'build it yourself' kit (The Grizzly) that we were going to do together as a father-son-scouting project. So much for that... Ahhh, a Class 3 State. If only you guys had decent weather. You already got the Packers. Give Madison to Iowa, and I'd make it a consideration for residence! LOL Argh! I knew I should have never clicked on that link...

Yeah, just saw on the news the national price is dropping from 6000 to 5500 rupiah a litre. So that means it's dropped to 20,790 a gallon...and the IdR to US$ exchange rate is now 12,956, so that means $1.60 a gallon for Super 95 Octane. (refigure earlier post of mine, I was using the old Rupiyah I bought here in 2005. The exchange rate is now much better!)

Loose the Leather Mask Ak?

"The new phone book is here! The new phone book is here!" I highly doubt I have to look to see if what I took to MSA made their pages...LOL

"8 posts does not a member make" Participant, maybe. Member? Hardly. Sorry about your situation. For $65 you can get the harness from DIYAutotune, the sensors in the stock datsun work fine, and the later MS units have software that lets you set the data pairs so there really is no need to change to 'gm' sensors. Check out the MS forum here, lots of information there.

Powder coating will withstand solvents far better than the 500F Rattle Can stuff will... I am in the habit of solvent spraying the engine when oil gets on it, my only reason for mentioning it. Powdercoating is cheap when you consider clear annodizing...though you can check out Caswell Plating.com and see what one of their smaller '5 gallon bucket' setups goes for, I'm sure there's all sorts of little doo-dads you can think of to clear anodize once you have the kit at the house, and the car all apart...

So, what about that Y40?

They did not solve that on the Volare's as well... my wife's 7X Volare would ALWAYS stall when I drove it around a left corner... She drove it slower, so no problem I guess. But everytime I stepped on it to turn left across traffic the damn thing died on me. And that was a one or two barrel carb. Terrible positioning of float bowl or something. 15 years down the road, and still the same symptom. That's progress, eh? Back to your regular programming.

There is an answer for that question, but I'm not saying it...

Same as my buddy Drew. He snagged I don't know how many 3-53 Detroit Blowers with all these grand plans on using them on this project or that. That was in 1985... They still sit in their boxes, oiled and fresh. Likely they will never be used. At least you're being realistic! LOL E-Bay is your friend!

Is there a photo that accompanies that story Palmetto? When they made the announcement at Tonawanda earlier this year my buddy was told 'dress nice today, and meet us at 1030 for a meeting' Ended up they wanted him on the podium during the announcement to the local press! He was not comfortable in that role...LOL

Ohh, you may want to edit part of that... As for cats not helping pass smog, they won't if your car isn't running right. There are tests in the FSM to test the thing, and to test the O2 sensor feedback loop. With the feedback loop properly functioning, no vacuum leaks, and an engine in good tune, you don't need the catalytic converter to pass to 1981 specifications. My 73 passed to 83 standards with AIR injection, headers, and SU's. The catalyst is there to handle 'excursions' where the engine goes out of the cleanest runnign range. There is some scrubbing done at all times, but when the car is cruising on the road at speeds above about 1500 rpms, and below 3300rpms it's on that O2 feedback loop and polluting the least. As for replacement cats...a $90 cat will last you maybe a year. Chances are good it will fail again in two years for one of two reasons: 1) the aftermarket cat has taken a dump 2) whatever poisioned your original equipment cat (other than 250K+ miles) likely will burn this one up too. Usually a rich mixture from someone playing with the AFM. New catalysts from OEM's have a lifespan of 10 years and 100K miles by statute. Replacement catalysts have no such standards. If you are paying $90 for it, you are paying LESS than what a scrap yard will pay you for your old OEM Catalyst. That should tell you something about how much more catalyzing metal there is in OEM units compared to aftermarket offerings. Let me guess, the guy that did the work 'tossed your old cat away so you wouldn't have to deal with it' right? What a great guy! He just made $100 to $150 on your catalyst, on top of what you paid him for his aftermarket installation.