Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I gotta go with Stealth-Z on this one.
I have excoriated friends for 'hesitating' at some vehicles priced at $500 or below.
ANY S30 is worth that much in parts alone for the most part.
If it's a FairladyZ, let me know, I'll come pick it up for that much!
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Mag Base, Dial Indicator, and the Degree Wheel. Set it up as the Cam Cars says, THEN go to the dyno and try a degree at a time advanced and retarded to see where maximum performance occurs.
It 'may not' be as the cam card says. Then again it may.
But until it's 'degreed in', you will never know where you are...
If the engine won't advance and is getting it's trigger signal, I'd check settings and verify against another EDIS Box that it's correctly working. They are all over in the JY, and cheap, too!
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But this has me wondering: what is the trade off for a closed chamber head design such as a P90? Did Nissan not understand these benefits when the original heads (E31, E88, N42) were designed? Otherwise, why wouldn't they have gone this route from the beginning? Perhaps emissions?
Well, we got the P90... Lots of NON-North American Markets got the N42 till the day they stopped production.
When the engine was designed, the gas was much better.
In 1975, the USA mandated Unleaded Fuels. And had very strict emissions compared with everyplace else on the planet, save for Japan (whose requirements were stricter 75-83...)
Everything with engine design is a compromise. Paid for tooling accounts for a lot of decisions in the OEM world. It took Chevrolet over 50 years to reverse their venerated Small Block, even after they did the testing and showed the advantages in the early 60's! What was that, almost 50 years to institute that change?
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There are limits for what is termed 'the wiggle test' and has to do with simple geometry. If you look at the distance from pivot point to measurement of lateral movement you can compare that to sidewall clearance. Using simple geometry you can determine the maximum clearance radially in the guide to the valve stem.
Failing that, you can look up the specifics in the FSM, which I believe has dimensions for that (or it's one of the knock-off books like Haynes or etc...)
"Any play at all" is NOT bad. You need oil clearance. Excessive clearance is bad, but what excessive is has to be determined as above.
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One quick thing to learn is not to flippantly retort when someone makes a suggestion...
Things that were 'fine' were not.
Which is why JC posted what he did...
Having someone else check them doesn't mean they're right.
I have literally flown thousands of miles because a customer wants someone else to look at something. Even though the guys that have been taking care of them are competent, knowledgable, and generally well-versed in what they do...looking at the same problem after you missed something 'insignificant' the first time heightens the possibility you will overlook it the second time the same set of eyes looks it over.
More eyes means more different points of view. Many times, guys will say "Damn, how did I miss THAT? I looked at it X times over the last month and it never occurred to me that it was bad! Looked good."
When in dobut, go back to the basics and start at square one...
Which is what JC had suggested. Someone missed something.
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You doubted me?
Go back and read the thread, and you'll find they're JDM for the most part. Doesn't make sense to make one special manifold you can only use on ONE vehicle, you make them 'common' so little bits can bolt on and change it's character. That's the way OEM's think.
They may have been on other Non-US models, Cedric, Gloria, Leopard, Laurel, etc.... Anybody in the UK or India care to chime in on that one? Saudi? Saudi got conventional distributors and FOUR BARREL CARBS on the VG30 powered Hardbody Trucks (so don't laugh yourself too hard, JohnC!)
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THAT'S THE LINK!
I know Ray linked from it on his page. It was from down under.
You want to know what makes a Z Car L-Engine's Cam work (or any cam for that matter) read those technical papers!
And remember this was written in the early 70's! Nothing's changed in the engineering, just better metals to withstand higher acceleration rates (but worse oils.....BAH!)
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On mine, I actually cut the holes in the same flange as the carburettor throats, same as HKS does. That auxillary jet cover thing is wierd, and unrequired if the proper gasket and plenum openings are used.
Makes removal a snap, as well.
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O.T. I see the Avatar you're using...that was the last news I got before leaving for Spain this trip.
The loss of George Carlin is terrible. It's a reason to go see people in concert. I never took him in live, and now never will have the chance. He and I 'thought' a lot alike...
Got to go se BB King, we're on borrowed time with him as it is! No reason for me not to, either...he lives in Vegas...it's only a three hour trip.
I commented to my wife at the Kansas Concert a couple of months ago that George was supposed to be playing in Anaheim at the Grove in June and that 'we should go'...
Shoulda woulda coulda never gains the life experience. DO it, don't think about it.
"I digress"
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My custom driveshaft for the boys 510 was done at Inland Empire Driveline Service for $150, with me supplying the trunnions and U-Joints for them to shaft to and balance.
An aluminum one would run $275 or thereabouts because I can't supply them with the aluminum bits.
IEDLS runs shops in Corona and Ontario. And yes, it's the same one you see in all the national magazines and they do supply the larger merchandisers with product (Jegs, Summitt, etc...)
Locally, their work is reasonable. They did our Bonneville Car's Aluminum Unit, and it's balanced to 10000 rpms. Not much of an error factor when in fifth (direct drive) we may be turning upwards of 9500 rpms...
Not bad for $250 (at the time...)
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Your fuel pressure is where it should be, and doing what it should when you touch the throttle.
You are basing this on plug reading alone?
They are white at the base, up inside the metal body where the center electrode porcelan contacts the metal threaded body, as viewed through a plug loupe with illumination?
If you are looking at the exposed portion of your center electrode, it runs CONSIDERABLY hotter, and will mislead you to the fueling conditions of your engine by up to three jet sizes. Most people who 'read plugs' do it wrong, and as a consequence jet too rich anyway.
And this was on a WOT clean cut reading, right?
If not, discount your 'readings' and see what happens as you drive. If you are not coughing out the intake and surging while driving along in top gear....likely there is nothing wrong with your fueling....
So the answer to the last line is probably best answered by 'overactive imagination, likely'...don't sweat it. If you don't have lean-running symptoms, you aren't running lean. "Reading the Plugs" is universally done wrong...fagedaboutit....
Just this past tuesday, I had ALL DAY to kill waiting on another flight out of JFK...sat in the darned hotel all day waiting for the appointed hour, HI Express Lynbrook...right up the street from the Train Store where the guy got Whacked in the 65th episode of "The Sopranos" entitled 'The Blue Comet'...or so the sign in the window said... I had time to play around on Long Island...
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Had a persistent problem with my wife's 260Z where the car was jumped and crash damaged. I had replaced all front end components yet had a persistent problem with shimmy.
Pulling my hair out for over 10,000 miles. When I replaced the tires, the problem went away.
Even when everything is 'fine' a set of tires that is out-of-round can cause FITS. Normally it gets better swapping front to back to check...but if you (like I did) have FOUR of the wobbly wonders, you will NEVER figure it out till you swap wheels and tires with a known good set.
This was so common in the old days, Ford would replace problem customer's tires with Michelins (Instead of the company supplied Firestones) as their track record for making tires that are actually ROUND (what a concept) was unrivaled at the time (late 70's early part of the 80's).
So if everything REALLY is 'fine' then change your tires and rims and see if that does it.
BALANCING only fixes dynamic imbalance and static imbalance.
If you have a tire that IS NOT ROUND you can balance it all you want and you will shake like crazy no matter what you do.
Just a thought...
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Racer Brown made some good stuff for the Z. Pioneer in the Assymetric Grinds. Racer Brown proper understood the engineering of valve acceleration rates and made cams that took full advantage of an assymetric profile to give more stability with lighter springs, etc etc etc...
This has been relearned by two other prominent Datsun Cam Grinders since R.B.'s passing. The R.B. legacy was up in the air for a good while as his Widow retained rights to the name, etc. The latest iteration of the R.B. Company is former employee who bought the naming rights and carries on, it's covered in the link.
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Check out Ray Anderson's "Datsun Motorsports" page (He posts at ZC.C as 'DMS', also older posts as 'raayap') he has some nice links to the old Racer Brown Camshaft Tech Articles...more information than most care to try to comprehend. Sorry I don't have the link here on this laptop, I haven't had the time to import 'favorites' yet. JeffP liked the pages so much he hard copy printed them immediately so to keep them should the site ever go down!
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Many will encase the fuel lines inside a larger pipe of hefty wall when in the vicinity of the flywheel 'plane of rotation' as wel...
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Some quick internet searching validated my recall of history. This is a 'bought rights' company, and this explains the disconnect from their heritage:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-143375.html
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please report back to us on what they say.
it was my understanding when the principal died and the doors closed in SoCal, that his reminaing inventory of Datsun Cams were bought by another Datsun Vendor still in business. I have seen Datsun Competition part numbers on R.B. Cams, but it's my understanding this current group disavows any recollection of ever doing any work with Datsun Comp, Nissan Motorsports, etc...
I see that site has Chevy cams....
Maybe this is like the 'new Bugatti' or 'Indian Motorcycle Company'...
I would be interested in the 'evolution' of the company since the principal's passing/original shuttering of the business.
I have to correct that, in that the new company doesn't recall work with BRE. I was mistaken in their disavowal of NISMO and it's predecessors. Later NISMO components were the Isky Assymetric Grinds done by Ron Iskendarian in the early 80's from what I have been told.
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Have your shop do the work on an L28 instead. You will be wasting serious money making a 260 engine that will never perform as well as an L28...
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easiest answer is to simply use the stock EFI pump and the regulator like SHOZ mentioned. This will be good to easily 350rwhp, possibly more. I have never checked the flow rating of the EFI pump at 20psi (what it would have to make a 17psi inlet pressure) but it's considerably more than what it does in EFI service at 37psig.
I know someone who used a holley fuel pump (red?) and kept detonating his engines to death once he hit over 12psi. I told him I used the EFI pump, and was good to 17 (er...21psi) and couldn't understand what the issue was.
Then I realized terminal pressure in the Holley was only 15psi, and starting around 12psi, the effective pressure to the carbs float bowl needle would only be 3psi under perfect conditions of no frictional losses through the stock pipes... Basically at 17psi, he was blowing air back down the fuel system and making bubbles in his tank while the float bowls ran dry and his detonation progressed to terminal effect...
Everybody in Japan used the EFI pumps, if they needed more flow, the simply used more in parallell. I have seen as many as three stock 280ZXT Pumps in Paralell, each feeding their own OER 50 on drag S30's and S130's that were running in the 9's back in the mid-late 80's.
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no, it's not
it's a open box by the looks of it, a quick cheap copy.
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Similar to Austin's Experience I had similar symptoms that I swore were ignition related save forthe way the car would pull if I slightly lifted my foot off WOT. Turned out one of the damn jets was in the 'start' (almost all the way down) position. I went round and round for quite a while under the logic I had just gong through the carbs and the jets were working fine. Something got in there and made it stick, and viola...no running over 5600rpms! Surged, bucked, acted like there was a rev-limiter. Stuck that jet back 'full up' retwisted the carbs to proper mixture and it zings right up there like it did years ago!!!
Not having time to do much more, I have to start the car without the starter system, kind of a pain when it's less than 50 degrees out...not doing my starter any favors, but I got other things to do than go through those SU's again.... I'll get to it when it's nearing fall I suppose...through some necessity or anger over having burned up a perfectly servicable starter due to sloth alone!
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I mounted an EFI pump up front initially when I converted to Triples. I had a heluva time getting over 80HP to the rear wheels. Changed jets and didn't help. Dyno operator said to put the pump out back, because it wasn't working like it's supposed to be sucking all the way from the back through a 10mm line. Repositioned the pump to the rear on a 260 electric pump bracket (bolts are there on all the 240's...) and I got a quiet pump that supported 145hp. Only thing I changed was putting the pump in the rear of the car. Still sucked through a 10mm line!
And that was with an EFI pump pushing 3.5psi. I dread to think what it would do having that high of a suction head to overcome and try to pump to 35psi+!!!
If sound is a concern (????) rubber mount it and use a rotary Bosch or Walbro type. They are very quiet.
Another alternative, which I did on another car was to push fuel up front with a Bendix Style pump that self-regulated to 3.5psi, and ran the EFI pump in/off a surge tank mounted in front of the radiator. Even the stock 240 Ticker Pump will work like that if you use a surge tank up front.
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i'm a little embarrassed as to what i paid. almost [kind of] felt guilty. total shipped from down under to me in upstate, ny was $250.
Don't even kinda feel guilty, last set I had sent from Europe ran me a whole 35 Euros, shipped on the seller's business account as a courtesy! I was showcked when they arrived, as the 'ship from' zone was up north, and the lenses were not fogged or in any way 'solarly affected'!!! So nice I just stuck em right in with just a cursory wipedown by hand with the Orange Bottle of 'Plastic Re-Nu' I picked up some place.
That was last year about this time. There are deals to be had down under! It's a "Reasonable" price.
As for 'tacky' stuff, I know of some gum in black, but don't know how well it will retain the lens long-term. RTV is a pretty much permanent solution it will be a bear to remove. The only thing I could think of is maybe some really low-temperature Hot-Melt kind of adhesive that would deactive it's grip under a heat lamp or Heat Gun (around 175-200 degrees) Anything hotter and you will risk damaging the lens plastic. That would be a simple matter of dropping them in boiling water to separate the components.
How does that Gorrilla Glue work? I know it's pretty sticky stuff and is a urethane based compound...maybe some sort of anti-urethane.
If you wanted something quick off the top of my head, find some Air Conditioning DUM DUM compound (HVAC Guys that do ductwork should have 20# sticks of it laying around) and just run the perimiter with it, saving several spots where you would use RTV to actually 'retain' the lens. That should work pretty well, and be much easier to remove as you only have a few places bonded with the RTV instead of all that surface area around the perimiter.
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has anyone totally removed the spare tire area, and made it flat bottom with the car?
Nissan did in those S30's that were fitted with the 100 Liter Petrol Tank...
my new euro tail lights
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Actually there IS more different than the Amber signal section. Depending on if they were from the JDM or European market, there are other 'parking lights' in the back of the assembly that are not on our cars. Regulations in Japan (and California, interestingly) that require vehicles parked upon the roadway to illuminate the lights on the side of the vehicle nearest traffic...and since they can park facing or with traffic, one side or another is all that is required to be lit.
This is why the center console on the S30's have those extra holes that are covered over/plugged. There were light switches in there for Japan that allowed you to light the 'parking lamps' on either the right or left side independently of the combination switch position.
They are very dim in comparison, like a 3watt or 5 watt bulb in each turn signal assembly. But you can leave those on for HOURS with those little dinky lawnmower batteries these cars came with in the JDM and not drain that battery significantly.