Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Those look like the Patton Machine SU adapters---where did you get them?
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Ok so my goals are to, clean the manifold, both the shavings and the cuts, straighten out the carbs, and filter them. Oh, and I am going to turbo them. What does everybody think about that?
Doing fine up to the 'Oh, and I am going to turbo them.' You are asking for a world of hurt.
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He doesn't tell the best part...I put it forth for the quote of the month:
"I was just driving down the road and the oil pressure went away...and I lost a rod bearing! I'm finished with the L's for now, I'm putting in an F-ing M5 Engine, I can get one with a gearbox for under 3000 F-ing euros!"
Eeeeeasy there, Big Fella. Next thing you know, he's going to wear cowboy boots and emigrate to Montana!
LOL
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"Then there's the really cool spark plugs that can sense combustion chamber vibrations, electrical resistance, and cylinder pressures and dump that to a Motec EMS."
There are similars for the stationary engine realm that give realtime BMEP data to the operators to prevent overloading of generator sets when...er...'making up production during peak consumption periods'....
Neat to watch the curve develop on an O-Scope.
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Techline Coatings in Temecula. That is the place that makes the graphite/teflon epoxy suspension for the recoating of oil free screws.
Maybe they have something equivalent?
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The BMW stuff is what I am referring to, IT IS NOT RTV!
This is the same stuff Nissan uses on it's own throttle plates. Trust me, unless you get a throttle plate THAT STICKS SHUT you will not be able to make it seal at an angle that won't stick off-idle. The grey 'paint' lets the throttle plate seat at an angle slightly less than metal-to-metal fit---which will prevent sticking. Anybody ever get a TWM big-throat that STICKS? I did. Brushing in a sealant kept it from that annoying habit. I got mine in a small applicator-in-cap bottle from the aforementioned NISMO Employee (now former NISMO Employee...)
It done dried out and it was 'generic'---he had a bigger source in the shop, but he just brought me the small bottle.
It has to be the BMW stuff...if one person can get it, anybody can get it.
That is the stuff I'm talking about. The sealer makes your life WAAAAAY easier. Metal to metal will gall. Metal to metal will wear.
You need something to 'soft seat' onto, and make a nice seal. Paint does that. I'm thinking it's an epoxy matrix with graphite in it. Kind of like the coatings they spray on oil-free screw air compressor screw elements....hmmmm... that gives me another possible source. I gotta call Mike in Buffalo now...
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Cow magnets are free if you have friends that work at the gut bucket at the slaughterhouse...
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FYI, a couple of years ago, those IRL engines were being sold off considerably cheaper than the quoted price.
McMeekin Bros back east were not privy to the Nissan IRL clearinghouse, so bought an Aroura IRL engine for a similar price. They put it in a 240SX.
They move at over 200mph at Bonneville if I'm not mistaken...
The CORR Racing Trucks were running the 5.6 at 8200+ rpms and making a gob more power than the stated goals above (other than rpm range). Basically forged pistons and isky bumpsticks. They used the factory sump that whole first season. Some nice OEM engineering there!
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Oh, apparently the later or Euro Stalks are different than the JDM stuff.
Mine doesn't say 'Pass' on it.
That's neat. Now I must posess one of those as well...my precious...must have my precious....
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You're hard-core Priddy.
I bet you smoke filterless camels as well...
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That last picture looks like a shark face on that Z.
There is a reason they call me 'sharkie' and my yahoo addy is 'sharkie73z'...
I was once told to take them off, but I find fast lane compliance goes up immeasurably when people see that coming at them in their rearviewmirror with the green, glowing city lights on in the headlights...
I mean, "For gawd's sake Emily, what kind of lunatic puts teeth on the front of their car?!?!?!? I'm pullin' over!!!"
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Far as I know, all you need do is ground that third prong in the connector and you're golden. Pretty easy check. I know it worked on my 71, so...
The later FairladyZ's had the 'correct' style stalk and retrofitting it is a roll pin away.
Now finding one of those assemblies....
You may want to simply find another similarly configured stalk off another model car, and retrofit that instead.
I still shake my head when I think I gave away four 76-77 Fairlady Z combination switch assemblies to other guys who had failures on cars they shipped from Japan (and Stealth Z knows where one of them went---not to him, but someone he knows!)
If only I had been more selfish. That's it...more selfish!!!
LOL
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This is what the headlight covers look like:
Kind of a long shot, but here's an old ratty G-Nosed car:
Yeah, they were in the yard, so I put em on car domain...what can I say? My bud is moving from Buffalo to be out here in SoCal. Something about coming back to miserable weather after attending a big all-japanese car event and realizing "he's found his people" at least that is what he kept muttering...
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Yeah, my Moby Van (the White G30 Chebby) was 8600#, and damned if I had to take it to different smog shops that dealt with 'Heavy Duty Trucks'.
The smog rules as JC said apply to 'passenger vehicles and light duty trucks.'
What did Chebby LUV stand for? Long before there were SUV's, there was the LUV: Light Utility Vehicle!
(NO LIE!)
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When cam towers are misaligned, they tend to seize the cam bearings, and then the camshaft snaps...
Now you guys see the importance of epoxy-gluing a cow magnet at the front and back of the head, as well as in the oil sump, and hose-clamping several around the periphery of the oil filter. Especially for original break-in!
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You mean about the 'flash to pass' capability, and not the presence of the smaller parking light bulb holes in the tail light assemblies then, I assume.
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Yes, they sell for around $700 a set...if you can find them.
This car is in Buffalo?
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Valve Guides are cheap. Change them all while you're in there.
Don't insert them, don't Knurl them. Just replace them and be done with it.
And change the guides BEFORE you have the machining on the gasket and top surfaces done! Heat makes the job go easier, so it's best to do the guides before truing the head surfaces.
I heat lightly, and use LN2 or Dry Ice and Alcohol to freeze the guides for installation. Less chance of warpage to the head. But you can heat the hell out of the head to open those bores up while you drive em home.
Filling the centers with LN2 helps them drop out when removing them as well...
I digress...
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I'm missing something here, you unplug the ECU and plug the new one in there. There is not any interlock between the ECU and the Transmission, nor many of the emissions components either.
From the way I read this post, the guy wants to swap in an Auto ZXT ECU into a 5 speed ZXT. This is a plug and play operation.
Now if he's changing transmissions then a lot of this other stuff applies. But the way I see it written, it's an ECU swap, to replace a fried ECU.
As long as it's ZXT to ZXT, you're fine. They will not swap ZXT to N/A.
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..oh great Tony. You are telling me that some of our Z's actually came with a proper high beam switch!???? So now, instead of finding a way to engineer one into my car, I get to hunt ALL over the internet searching for how it was done on these few magical cars that came with it!
I have one of them...I took the stalk and steering column out of my Fairlady on Okinawa. As well as the wiring harness. Much to my surprise when I went to install it, thinking I'd have to put the wiring harness in as well, the wiring was already resident in the vehicle's main body harness.
All I did was swap in the combo switch / ignition assembly and they started flashing just like on the other car. So my assumption was that the relays were identical as well.
There are three sockets in the high/low beam stalk assembly. On US cars, only two of them have wires going to them. But notice on the body harness...there are three plugs in there!
That third plug? Simple wire to the button in the end of the stalk for a ground as far as I can tell. Basically a 'manual' way to 'flick the stalk' to the other position for a brief second for the 'flash to pass' feature.
At least that's the way it worked out on my car...
As for rephrasing my statement. Er.....which one? Specificity is the soul of understanding.
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I WANTED to say "0.008" but I simply could not positively remember the number off the top of my head. And being in Tarragonna Spain right now, my reference books are some few thousand miles away...LOL
.008" is a calibrated wiggle. You can feel the difference between 8 and 4, and say 8 to 10. You will get the hang of it and realize when it is 'too much' and it's time to break out the precision measuring equipment for exact numbers.
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I have used a stock N/A EFI pump to successfully make over 350rwhp on a carburetted blowthrough setup. Lending mas credence to exactly what 510Six says: if it's a low pressure setup, the flow from any given pump will be FAR more than rated. In that setup I used the stock 240Z 'ticker' style Bendix Electric Pump to send fuel up to the surge tank and never had a problem...even though that supplementary pump in the 240 was NEVER designed to support even 150hp much less boosting surge duty on a turbocharged car!
Additionally, if you are running your return line through your surge tank (like you should) there should never be any incidence when your running dry or even low on your boost system.
I would bet a stock EFI pump running 'free field' to the surge tank would handle quite a bit of flow, and allow even a slight positive pressure to the main pump, boosting it's throughput at the same time.
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Frank 280ZX could idle his triple ITB's blowthrough setup at 2300 rpms and have 2psi of boost. At 1700, he easily had 7psi under WOT.
And that pulled 'like insane' to 7000+
Similarly, my Blow-Through system was set to have full boost of 17psi at 1700rpms. Everydody who poo-pooed turbos because 'they have non-linear power output' without 'low end power' really got taken aback when they went for a ride in the old Shark Car.
It's all how you set it up. Turbos don't have to come 'on boost' at 4000+ rpms. And if the do come on early, there's no reason they need to be 'out of breath' by 6000 either.
It's all old wive's tales perpetuated on the internet by people 'reading' a far bit more than they are actually 'doing'!
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Check out Datman's E-Bay auction and in-between the upper lenses on the back of the assembly you can see EXACTLY the place where the JDM parking light bulb goes.
On the Eurospec and US Spec light assemblies, they have a round plastic plug in there, and there is no accompanying wiring harness and bulb connector (though in the S30's they do have the wiring in the main harness for some reason...same with the 'Flash to Pass' feature in the 240's...)
ZXR .. Super turbo prosponed BMW V8 planned
in Other Engines
Posted
De nada, mi amigo!
I told all! It was funny to hear you say that.
At least I didn't say anything about 'a new dimension in pain' and the fetal position...
I was "bitched" out of getting the seats and door panels from the 60 Corvair today. Between them not wanting to sell the parts separately at Ecology, and flack I got from even mentioning I was at a junkyard, it just became a worthless day.
Now, I look forward to Abu Dhabi as a welcome release from hell.