Tony D

It won't fall off, but they can shift around a little bit from impacts and jarring movements.. I was referring to clamping the Cow Magnets to the filter---they are round cylindrical magnets (for those who don't know what Cow Magnets look like) and if you don't hose clamp em' they all end up on the bottom of the filter after the first good bump! Flatter Alnicos will stick on the filters and not move around at all, because they have a lot more surface area in contact with the ferrous alloy.

All I can say is you can't change the rules of physics, and common sense dictates the flow numbers speak for themselves. Added to packaging ease it's a no-brainer... Our Bonneville Car runs twice-pipes and I can show even with twin mandrel-bent 2.5" straightpipes, you loose horespower from flow restriction on an N/A L28. And packaging on a car with 1.5" of ground clearance is kinda critical...a single 3.5" or 4" pipe would not package nearly as efficiently in the package. "Stock" ITS 2.4's run at least a 3" mandrel bent exhaust to cut the power losses in the exhaust end...so obviously a 3" mandrel bent exhaust is a hindrance. How do you get more flow through the same available space? Double Up smaller pipes for a flow equivalent. It's not rocket science.

I had an S130 Template made up for someone here and was going to give it to them at MSA, but they fell off the face of the earth...and I suppose I probably have shredded the cardboard template back in June after I got laid off and started cleaning things out... The photo diagram above by JSRB26ZCar was for a RHD car, and if you followed those directions, I can see where you ended up with problems on an LHD Car. The mirrors do need to be staggered so you can see down the side of the car properly---thing is the RHD stagger will give the results you mentioned if applied to a LHD Vehicle. For the life of me I can't remember the 'back from the headlight bucket crease' dimension, but it was less than half a sheet of legal paper. Most people I've seen that mount their mirrors without using a proper template put them too far back on the fender, and too far inward. Giving poor results. The stock fender mirrors are very effective showing the entire side of the car, as well as the entire lane to the left and right of the vehicle from the doors back. They pretty much take away blind spots altogether...even with the crappy small inside rearview mirror. Like mentioned, add a Broadway and you should never be cutting anybody off... I do have a Fairlady 280 Z(X) sitting at home that I suppose I could pull the template off of again... Whenever I get back home.

The stock fuel pressure regulator is manifold referenced---meaning the fuel pressure is spring set to be a set pressure ABOVE manifold pressure. The stock FPR IS a 1:1 fpr with a 37psi preset bias. A rising rate FPR changes fuel pressure NON-Linearly. For every psi you get in the manifold, you get 2, or 3 X that change in the fuel pressure. For band-aiding a stock EFI system with STOCK sized injectors it works to give more fuel under boost. With a standalone, a RRFPR is not required. With stock ECU and Stock Sized injectors it will give you more fuel flow under boost than the stock injectors would normally be capable of doing. For a Turbo ECU, ANY stock regulator from a Nissan EFI system will work fine---it already has 'boost flows' compensated into the fuel mapping up to around 10psi. And yes, you can use them on the aluminum fuel rails simply by mounting them on the firewall, or wherever, and using a barbed fitting at the end of the rail.

Floating takes away horsepower? Ever look a 'restricted lift' competition cams? The design a ramp to 'throw' the lifter off the nose of the cam, thereby giving the effect of actually having a higher lift than what you actually do. "Launcher Cams" they are called I believe... You got to understand many SBC in the 70s had such terrible springs that they would float the valves at 4500 rpms! Machining tolerances weren't the best, either. Remember, this ain't a SBC we're talking about, it's a Datsun L-6. Different animal. This same myth crossed over into the VW World some time ago as Hydraulic Adjusters were available out of the box in Mexican Beetles. With as many solid-lifter cams out there, and with the 60+ years of development into them, anything that didn't give the predictable results of them out of the box during development of the newer grinds was given a bad wrap. But after a short teething period, the Hydraulic Cams in the VW Type 1 now support pretty radical performance. Solids are still all over the scene for the above reasons, but for street engines and especially street turbo cars the Hydraulics with no noise and no adjustment (every 3K miles on a VW!!!) and comparable performance to around 7500-8000, more and more people are using them. Right, it's not 10K rpm like the competition engines, but a competition engine on the street is a big mistake in more ways than one. Corvairs don't have any of that reputation unless the lifter components are swapped around during rework of the lifters. All competition Vairs have Hydraulic Cams, and they rev same as SBC's with solids. But it doesn't stop people from lamenting 'if only a flat-tappet cam was available'...then again, if it works, why bother with the hassles involved? Especially on an engine that GROWS 0.100"+ from stone cold to hot operating temperature. Kinda makes a self-adjustable lifter system nice...

1974 Michigan State Police Detective's car...454 Four Barrel, calibrated speedo, different suspension, dual exhausts and no catalysts or smog equipment at all... Almost like a 69 specification (or 72 for that matter). Old lady next door had it when here husband died. In a teenager's dream one day we were talking and she asked me if I could take it up to Monument Road heading out of town and 'blow out the carbon for her'...Talk about doubletake. She explained to me that her husband told her that the car needed to have that done at least once a month or it wouldn't run right. Like I needed to be asked twice. Suuuure I'll do that for ya Mrs Papke! Worst traffic stop ever: coming back down Monument Road, and being stopped by the MSP at a triple digit speed. Trooper comes up, says "who are you? isn't this Papke's car?" Yes sir, Gladys asked me to 'blow out the carbon' for her, and she says I have to go at least 140 or the car doesn't run right. Her husband told her that... "That sounds like Papke, er... Don't tell anybody about this, and keep it on Sunday Mornings, O.K.?" Yes, Officer! (Glowing Look of Incredulity on Face Rest of the Day) Apparently nobody on in the post wanted to screw with anything related to Gladys because she would camp out at the post desk and make their lives a living hell till they either relented, or someone up in higher HQ got wind of it and did something over their heads to placate whatever got under her bonnet. Never met her husband, but I was SO GLAD he told her to blow out the carbon every month! Curiously, the later 70's Impala MSP Cars with the 350's were pretty good handlers, and would give a stock 240 a run around most auto-x courses believe it or not. Don't even ask how that bit of knowledge came into my realm! LOL

Er... Well, my 73 240Zt has dynoed upwards of 325 to the rear wheels using the JDM Trust / Greddy dual pipe setup that is a mirror image of the OEM Z432 Exhaust System, only smaller. The Design Impetus for the Twice Pipes in the JDM was the Z432, which had twin 60mm pipes to support a full-on 2-Liter running above 10,500 rpms in competition and restricted to standard componentry in it's racing class. So Greddy/Trust simply copied that system since that is what the early 240's are designed to accept straight out of the box. It's far easier to package that JDM system in an early car (see photos earlier in the thread for the obviousl 'twin humps' in the differential crossmember) than it EVER will be on a single 3" system! Unless, of course you change to a later single-cutout diffy crossmember... So packaging an exhaust system that WILL NOT BOTTOM OUT (just like the OEM setup) and retains full flow capabilites more than sufficient to support over 300HP sounds like a good way to go to me. I guess you missed those dyno numbers the first time...as well as the PRIMARY reason for doing it in an EARLY CAR: PACKAGING EASE. It's what the freakin' designers of the vehicle intended for the chassis! Look at any number of 3" systems out there, and tell me they aren't scarfed where they pass beneath the differential...what good does a 3" Mandrel Bent system do you when it's smashed to 2.5" at the differential due to bottoming out. And if you haven't swapped to the later diff member, chances are good you're crushed more than that! Your comment is foolish on the face---it's like saying there is no difference in dyno numbers between a 3" Mandrel and 3" Crush-Bent system---simple cross-sectional diameters will show you there is a flow difference, and flow means HP---ESPECIALLY on a turbo engine. Now, if you are talking on a bone stock N/A engine, sure you may not flow enough to have it make a difference, and threfore use the dyno numbers to 'prove' the mandrel bent system is 'useless' compared to crush-bent. But even on a stock turbo the addidion of a 3" mandrel bent tube exhaust is worth 20HP on a ZXT... But then we come full-circle to packaging again don't we? And the argument of 'how good is a 3" exhaust if it's crushed 1/2"?' With your retort, you really need to read a bit more to realize people posting here aren't blathering out mindless drivel. You made a bad guess, the supporting documentation was posted earlier in the thread as well. Live with it and drop the attitude. It's not a Honda Forum. Oh, on the JDM thing...er, what 's your point. I lived there at the time I bought it...and let me say that the development level currently being experienced in the USA on the street is only now approaching the level of Japanese Street Tuners of 20+ years ago. So I proudly state I have a JDM Aftermarket exhaust system that has been on my car since 1985, and was almost 7 years old when I bought it. Never used a 'special header gasket' never had a tube rust through. Sometimes quality counts, son, and these are quality parts, well thought out and engineered far better than their counterparts available in the USA for years... As far as 'faster or better' than anybody else...I think I am faster than any other F/PRO competitior in the world as certified by the SCTA/BNI, amongst other classes. Never said I was better. But I damn well am certified faster than anyone else on the planet competing in that classification... I digress...

Yep, the consensus is that welding the ports and raising them will give you the same effect as tilting the valve. Draw out the port configuration, and look at what you get tilting the valve 3*. Then see where you are with the valves in the stock configuration (no headaches) and raise the port and straighten it with a mikuini style manifold and not something that comes straight out the side of the head like a cannon. When the top of the port is almost touching that valve cover mounting surface, you got a pretty straight shot to the back of the valve... And remember, the L4's have nice water circulation out the bottom of the manifolds, as opposed to the L6's where you have to drill those damnable holes above the ports to get decent circulation at the back two cylinders...

Blocking of the holes in the balance tube simply cleans up the top of the manifold. Look at the "Euro Manifold" Balance Tube and you will see something with only the Brake Booster threaded hole. I don't know of anybody deleting the balance tube...it's agood thing to have for the operation of the engine (smooths things out). People take the coolant hoses off the manifolds for any number of reasons...cool the intake charge by keeping the manifold cooler, etc. There are actualyl two circuits on the later manifolds, one for the carbs to keep the throttle plate section of the carb from icing up in humid ocnditions and another that heats the manifold during warmup to help cold-running. Ignorance mainly dictates the removal of the whole system, really, as once the engine warms to 170F, the manifold heating section of the water passages is shut off by a thermostat at the rear of the engine as brokebolt says---it really helps promote faster warmups of the engine by allowing considerably more recirculation of the coolant within the block... but who am I to argue with everybody that looked at a 72 Manifold system and never looked any further??? I can see the anti-icing items being plugged, as well as the upper manifold portion when you aren't running EGR...but if the system is functioning it really helps with warmup and cold running cababilities of the setup. Biggest issue with the parts at the back of the engine is sedimentation from dolts who didn't use anti-freeze and sedimented up the thermostat...

I know old tech was simply to raise the ports as mentioned. The FIA heads have ports already raised. For the standard L-4 heads, many builders would weld into the valve cover area and move the ports up so far to be almost touching the valve cover gasket...very straight shot to the back of the valve head. Truthfully my first thought was with all the work "why in the world didn't he use the barrel throttle assemblies"---45 barrels flow as much as 48mm butterflies, yet have tip-in response of much smaller carbs for better drivability when feathering the throttle to get underway... Seriously, that is exactly what I thought.

For a matching numbers four digit 70 that price is not considered high in ANY place! And it's a downright STEAL even in SoCal. That other cars exist for lower prices notwithstanding, for that list of pedigree that is more than a reasonable asking price!

I did it, but for black-look no chrome. That was because my flares dictated I reshape the parts that hook around the back of the car, and once I shortened those, it was like...well...while I'm at it. I checked my photos, and you can't see anything against the matte-black of the bumper. Basically, I welded with a heavy bead, well proud of the surface, then used a long bastard file to get the profile close. Moved to the double cut in a finer grade, then to the black silicon carbide emery paper in finer and finer grades as I got towards flush and once all the other chrome was off. Once I was down to bare metal the whole thing was sandblasted with fine silicon carbide for a very even matte finish, and then primed and painted. Much the same way you metal work a car body from the 40's...it's slow work once you get close to the profile. Ask your chrome guy how close he 'needs it' before you give it to him...any low spots or undulations will require him to heavily copper-coat and buff to smooth, usually at an extra charge. Any undulation or divot will show with chrome, and your eye will be DRAWN to that spot forever more... one of the reasons I went matte-black. You can't tell mine from an FRP replica! lol

You can get the Freez-It at any Radio Shack---it's what they use for isolating components that have failed due to heat on circuit boards. More unPC people will use cans of Freon, R134, etc... Anything to rapidy and positively cool something immediately and not a bunch of stuff around it. I think Freez-It is siphoned CO2 now. In the old days it wa R12...LOL

Nigel makes a good point to watch: Preignition and Detonation are different things. You will never hear preignition. Things 'just break'...if you watch an engine with combustion pressure monitors in it on an O-Scope you can see the characteristic differences between detonation and preignition. The preignition trace will show the pressure spike WELL above the normal curve before the angle of TDC, whereas the detonation pressure spike will be far less severe, and occur AFTER the pressure has started rising from the point of normal spark ignition (and wellllll after TDC!). Detonation can be endured for far longer, comparatively speaking, than preignition. People sometimes hear detonation, and will back out of it. Preignition will occur silently and break things hard on the first or second occurance. The pressure spikes characteristic of preignition are of the order of metal-failure pressures, 10X more than the worst detonation episodes. Simply because of the difference in the timing---one occurs on a 'shrinking' space...the other on one that is 'expanding'... Detonation is simply fast flame travel causing that spike in pressure as the expanding gas simply raises pressures faster than the piston falling in the bore will allow. On a slow burning engine, the flame propogates and gas expands evenly. Add a fast flame front that overwhelms the volume, you hear that 'pinking' as the flame front raises to a pressure point resonant to your hearing. It can occur, yet never reach that point of audible notes. This prolonged detonation can break things, and mistakenly is sometimes attributed to 'preignition' as the damage appears the same on the surface. Broken Plug Insulators, holes in pistons, melted piston crowns...people will argue each can be caused by either. They are both correct. Preignition can do that on the first or second occurance. Detonation will take prolonged ammounts of time to rack up that same damage toll.

The above info is only partially correct---the last section of the puzzle is where the PCV gets the air it sucks up into the intake through that check valve (see my earlier post for description if you want). That vent on the top of the valve cover needs metered air that means from the tube between the AFM and the Turbocharger. It's a two-way hose. Under vacuum, air will flow through it into the valve cover, and out the base into the intake...under boost, crankcase pressure will be vented back through it to the turbocharger and on to the intake. As for sealing it, you can heat the pipe with a torch and stick some more solder on it to make it fit 'tighter'---then coat it with some sealant and set it into the block with a smart rap from a 3# deadblow hammer. It should not 'fall out' by any means!

RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! RUN AWAY! A new distributor/CAS unit will run several hundred dollars retail. The new ignitor you need will be gleaned from any local junkyard off any newer Nissan (240SX's seem nice...) To verify the issue, carry a can of 'freeze-it' and when it dies again, goi out and spray it on the ignitor module attached to the coil bracket. Try to restart, if it goes...then you found and confirmed your problem. If it doesn't...then try the CAS unit with another freezing shot. If that does it, then the CAS is indeed suffering some sort of heat-related failure. But generally it's the Ignitor that gives out way before any of the optical components in the CAS. Newer Nissans DO have a failure reputatation for the Distributors going bad due to heat...but they have the ignitor unit integral with them. My brother just went through this a month ago on his altima. The older ZXT's have separates, and curiously the new dizzys are available in separates on the aftermarket as well---seems the market realizes it's a component failure...and usually not the optical trigger/pickup, but the actual transistor switching componentry (ignitor) the more things change, the more they stay the same. Curiously Nissan only makes the dissy assembly available for late models...at high cost. The changeover of the ignitor or CAS assembly is straightforward...just remember to get a GOOD GROUND on both units (the CAS has a separate little spade terminal for it, the ignitor grounds through it's mounting bolts, so the metal needs to be clean and tight to work well or premature failure will result.) If I can talk my brother through it, you can do it...trust me! LOL

Ridiculous! I tried linking to the dashboard site in Australia and got a "We apologize the site you are attempting to visit has been blocked due to it's content being inconsistent with the religious, cultural, political and moral values of the United Arab Emirates." I guess those naked FRP dashboards will condemn me to hell...what was it they had on the TV "the road to hell is paved with passions"? BAH! Now I gotta revisit this thread when I'm stateside (or at least in an airport with wireless access) to see my Dashboard Porn! Curiously, Reaction Research's website is not blocked...

Reading my last post, I'm waiting on someone else to admit they, too "can subsist on Alcohol on a limited basis"...

Poor guess. Check the flow math. Two 2" pipes flow better than a singel 2.5. Actually two 2" pipes flow about as well as a single 2.75" pipe, so for a turbo in an early car twice pipes would be an easier packaging exercise than a single 3", and flow just as well. Speaking as someone with twin 50mm pipes on a JDM setup that has spun 325+ Turbo RWHP, I think the system is viable in that application. And even packaging twin 2.5" pipes is easier than a 3" single...and outflows it as well!

It's an untreated pipe. Raw Steel, you put water on hot steel and it rusts. My advice is to quickly put some heavy coating of BBQ paint on it to try and stop the total 'rustification' of the piping where it's visible at least. Before long you will see that nice rust-coloring over the whole length of the pipe. BBQ Paint, or any of the 1200F paints from Autozone will work fine if you follow their instructions for preparation TO THE LETTER and give it a SLOW curing as the instructions call for. My twice pipes (JDM) have been under my 73 since 1985 and the paint I put on then still is there protecting them from corrosion. High-Heat silver is also a choice many people like...

My comment about the money is directly related to the fuels viability. Without heavy subsidies, it's not cost effective. For the exact same reasons I stated from my experience in the late 70's. Without the subsidies, your supply of 'affordable wonder-fuel' will dry up post haste. The 5-7 mpg was in relation to the 10 to 12 I got using pure gasoline. The single mount 48IDA is a terrible street setup for a VW, but when using alchohol it was dismal. I have posted in the past that EFI will remedy a lot of the drivability problems...but the basic fact remains unchanged: Its' a fuel source that is not economically viable on a large scale without massive government subsidies. If someone chooses to hitch their cart to a horse that is fully dependent on the government's 'constancy of purpose' so be it...I just don't trust the future availability of the fuel. Even in Brazil with a developed Alcohol Infrastructure, their 'energy independence' attained last year was through a massive offshore petroleum discovery, not through some miraculous breakthrough of home-sourced ethanol. Ironic truth be told, most of the ethanol is hydrocracked out of petroleum chains in refineries because it's cheaper by far... When vodka manufacturers buy in bulk from petroleum refiners for their basic product, and then flavor for taste you gotta step back and look at the economics of it. What did I learn from my experience? I CAN subsist on Alcohol on a limited basis with motorized conveyances if I have the time to do the refining. And as such that experiment was a success. For a viable fuel long term, IMO the economics won't change. It's energy intensive. Doomed to failure without massive subsidies. So in that context, the economics surely do play a part in the thread from where I sit at least.

The linkages between the balance tube, and between the carbs are different between earlier carbs and the 73/74 Flat Tops. I will buy the Flat Tops from you for a minimal amount...PM me if interested.

And you know his face looks like a Maserati, a Maserati, it's fast it's hot it's a Maserati, Maserati...it's a FAST one too! That thing's TURBOCHARGED! Got Fuel Injection... Buff it up buff it up buff it up, yeah it's shiny now! It's time to put the old Maserati away, you look for a garage.......you think you see a garage? Hey, waitaminit, the damn thing's open! Get it in there---YEAAAAAH! Wango Tango... This will continue until my funds arrive. You need my routing numbers herr poll? Ted Nugent is a V8 guy, just like you Frank! He likes shooting guns...Just like you and Tyson, Frank. See, you two are the same...(Think vigilante scene in the back room of the Surplus Store in 'Falling Down') You are the same... Zyklon B...

I knew a guy at a slaughterhouse, and got a good supply (read 'lifetime') of slightly used "Cow Magnets" that I have been JB-Welding into the front and rear of the oil pans every time I drop one... You can hose-clamp them to the oil filter as well...or simply get a big, strong alnico magnet and stick it on the pan or the oil filter---it won't go anywhere as long as you aren't playing 'Dukes of Hazard'... I prefer to stick it front and rear though...I saw someone stick an external magnet under the pickup screen one time---er... nice thinking, but if anything gets knocked free, where does it go???

Define "High rpms"---most people making power through boost have a power peak below 6500rpms (most definately if they are using the stock cams) so why would one 'need' to go to any higher rpms? Who voiced these 'floating' problems, does anybody know of anybody who actually did this, or is it all heresay? I pretty much know the answer, but I have to ask, just to make people think...