Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Clear RTV seems to work well.
JUST REMEMBER TO LEAVE THE DRAIN HOLES OPEN ON THE BOTTOM OR IT WILL FILL UP WITH WATER!
One of our clubmembers here sealed them 360 degrees, and didn't realize when he washed the car the white plastic is not a 'watertight injection moulding' and filled the bottom of the lights with water. As he sealed the two little retangular drain openeings on the bottom of the lens, the water had nowhere to go and (luckily) on the drive that weekend it was a big source of amusement. The water was soooooo slose to shorting out his lower sockets!
The big issue, of course is minimal condensation, as it will take forever to get out, and totally corrode your sockets in short order.
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Looks to me like Two of the 48's will support 240HP...that's pretty stout. Who here makes more than that? Realistically the 48's are more than enough for a direct replacement for SU's...just as they are designed to be!
Setting them up on SU manifold should be a pretty easy setup. You guys want everything handed to you? Jeez!
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Man, I guess I should have kept a couple dozen left over from the car show to send you guys wanting one. I was giving them away!
Living here has it's advantages. The guys involved in the mag are cool, have spent the time to beat feet to various local car clubs and car shows related to the genre. It's nice to see a "Japanese Style" enthusiast magazine here...finally.
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Fred Crow in Anaheim will make the belts any length you want, but their wraparound kits have pretty long shoulder belts, you just order the 72" versions.
Jim Diest will do the same. Most of them will, just take a look at their online catalogues, lots of time they have the option to leave the length open. But you can always shorten a long set. Just buy long, and shorten it.
EGADS! those aren't racing harnesses those are off-brand I-don't-know-what-spec stuff! I'd pay the $78 per side for a set of Crow Belts---at least they are type approved. I didn't see any certification on those e-bay cheapies.
I wouldn't be buying helmets (off brand) or belts (off brand) when it comes to anything to do with my life...
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Take a look at any Nissan T/B and you will see a grey substance around the edges of the butterfly and a corresponding grey substance around the periphery of the T/B where the butterfly mates to it. Almost like someone took a q-tip and swabbed the whole diameter of the Butterfly with something.
It's a persistent sealant that Nissan Uses to seal out the imperfections. Where they get it, I do not know, but someone at Nissan Motorsports told me they did acquire it for 'overbored' T/B's used in SS racing (cheating)...
I don't know the composition, but it's persistent and won't come off unless you sand it off with something abrasive---carb cleaner won't touch it! Neither will chlorinated solvents, alcohol, or brake cleaner.
Real thin coating, fills all those little imperfections!
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Don't mix S30 and S130 in the same thread, you guys will muck it up for sure!
The NACA duct on the S130 hood, BTW is dual purpose. During high speed driving the duct lets air in, and through a channel acrtoss the hot isde of the turbo---it's a high to low pressure flow path.
When at low speed, the VENTED AREA BEHIND the NACA Duct allows turbo heat to simply convect UPWARDS through the hood. It's a dual-purpose opening.
Same as underbelly pans. The S30 stock pan went from the lower radiator support structure back to almost the transmission mounting member, with the left side cut out to accomodate headers and large exhaust used on the Z432.
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I hound E-Bay for old Dells. You can get 1.8ghz laptops with a full XP setup and MS Office Suite for under $200 any day of the week.
I lost my job a month ago, and luckily I had an old laptop to 'go mobile' while job hunting. It's reasonably fast on the aps, allows me to seamlessly move from my company laptop and not miss a beat.
New comany laptop is faster with a core2 duo, but nothing spectacularly better than my circa 2004 Dell Inspiron 2650. And for that matter, my Circa 2000 Vaio 1.6 with an AMD processor!
I firmly believe in "obsolete technology"---IT'S STABLE AND CHEAP!
So you have $200 into a laptop you only use in the garage. When you're drunk one night and dump your beer on the keypad, or knock it off the workbench or fender....it's a lot less stressful than having to explain to your BOSS why the company laptop smells like a brewery...or has Silver Metallic Spray Pattern Checks on the back of it.
Now, the other Boss may whine about $200 for another replacement, but eventually the carnage builds up to a sufficient level that you can make another one out of the dead bits and give it to the kid...I know I did! LOL
(BTW, all service documentation and restore stuff for the Dells is usually available on E-Bay from Ex-USA sources, it's how I wiped/recovered a locked HD from corporate dumpster...free is free!)
One other thing that irks me:
"Learning" and OS....
Microsoft makes the stuff so damn complex and counter-intuitive that you actually HAVE to "LEARN" how to use it. Does anybody else feel that is wrong? Amiga and Mac used intiuitive OS interfaces that seem much more friendly that you spend less time 'learning' and more time 'doing'...
I had to unlearn logic when I started using Microsoft products!
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Same path I tread. I always asked myself why the Datsun crowd never heard of 'modulator rings' or knew of the Dellorto Turbo-Specific DHLA's from the Maserati BiTurbo...
My VW Training came in handy years later on the Datsun...
That being said, the VW has a nice long separation between intake manifold and carb, and no hot manifold and turbo underneath to cook the carbs. Your best bet is Mikuinis with cooling bodies for a turbo application, heavily heat shielded.
For the cost of that setup, you can get used ITB's and EFI that will run better than any Carb Blow Though ever did.
Even CB and Gene Berg realized that years ago and started selling EFI for street applications. Especially with the turbo setups!
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All the Nissan L-Plenums are designed to have the dual-stage style T/B on them---that's why the 'egg-shaped' hole is there---it readily approximates the small and larger bores.
And the L20E plenums are much smaller than the L28E's in that area.
None of the L-Engine plenums I have ever seen had a 'round hole' on them, they were all egg shaped.
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Wire mesh? Phhhht!
WE here use advance composite technology: Fibreglass Screen, PLEASE!
For the ultimate lightweight composite manifold plenum repair...
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Some Japanese guy in the homeland will see these photos and become determined he must posess this piece of hardware...
Plenum or Engine Mount, take your pick!
Looks Good!
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Better question is: Will the driver in his seated position be tall enough to allow the strut tower to be used as an anchor point according the the belt manufacturer's instructions!
You can get belts any length you want, that is not the issue. Wether you can anchor them properly according to the 'shoulder height' of the driver is another...
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I will second Bryan's comment of shooting for NO gap. The bypass is your idle control. Frank280ZX just went through this on his ITB setup and wasn't getting an idle below 2300, after screwing them down to even a paper-thin opening (like less than 0.003" cracked, it was still idling the car at 1700 rpms.
Normally a fixed bypass orifice sets the 'no stall minimum idle speed' (say 700rpms) and the IAC makes compensations ABOVE that point---so even iwth an IAC, you are wise to incorporate a fixed or variable bypass orifice from the external air source to keep the IAC working near it's seat, instead of much wider open...makes for better and smoother PID control of the IAC when your A/C kicks on (or whatever). Working the IAC near seat keeps air velocity up and helps prevent buildup. You will be cleaning your IAC if you don't have a good air filtration setup!
EFI is designed to idle with the throttle closed for maximum intake manifold vacuum off-idle. You can always make a non-linear throttle actuation to help tip-in form a low idle, but you will play hell trying to get your idle down to reasonable levels with the six throttle plates open.
A simple 1/4" vacuum hose is what I have controlling bypass air to all my engine, and with a reworked 82/83 NA idle air bypass needle valve through that 1/4" hole I can raise the idle to over 2200rpms easily. They don't take any air at all to idle!
Kinsler throttle plates, why make the jig...they're cheap!
I heard you could get the same grey sealant that was OEM on the Nissan TB's for total sealing once the T/B is staked to the shaft. Nissan guys got ahold of some, ideally that is the way to go, than way you can use a slightly 'loose' butterfly and minimize the chance of Sticking when it gets hot or loaded with debris...like some of the TWM bodies are known to do...
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This isn't that hard. As far as you can go lean is what I mentioned "Lean Best"---turn your properly balanced and float adjusted non-spark misfiring SU's Mixture Nuts upwards till you see on the tachometer a 25rpm drop in steady idle speed. Then back them out 1/2 turn.
That is ALL I did on a 1971 to pass to CALIFORNIA 1983 Standards. My allowable emissions were 1/10th what a 1973 was allowed to put out, and the car ran well, got 27mpg, and was happy during the cool times. When it got hotter, it liked it a bit richer, and the mileage fell off a bit, but there is a WIDE lattitude on these setups for where the engine 'runs'.
If the car can't pass a simple tailpipe test....something is wrong and you need to fix it---no iff's and's or buts about it. ESPECIALLY with a stock cam or even fairly warmed over cam and higher compression.
Don't be slothful, make the car run correctly. You are doing yourself no performance favors running 'pig rich', you ARE loosing horsepower running that way!
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That is amazing dude, almost makes me want to go N/A and get on a list to buy one of these.
A bit of welding on the ends to accept a plenum, and there is no requirement for this to only be N/A...
Though seeing a custom-cast ITB N/A setup that puts TWM to shame really does have it's allure...
Anybody remember the old CAN-AM or Formula cars with their stacks all askew? That's what this reminds me of, I love the look!
The performance and sound are frilly intrinsic benefits for motorheads!
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JB Weld it, send in the testimonial!
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The S130's with both L28E and L20E in the JDM had progressive throttle linkages/TB's with the standard mounting for the TPS.
The L20's primary opening was about the size of an American Dime, while the L28's was aroudn the size of an American Nickel.
The engine usually would run at cruise and up to about 3500rpms on the primary bore. So running around normally you used a lot of the throttle play---almost 3/4 of total pedal travel. Your engine vacuum signal was quite high as a result-you got better fuel economy.
But cruising along the road at 3000, you touch the throttle and the tip-in of the larger bore caused a great surge of power (er...whatever you want to call it for a stocker...) compared with a similar actuation of the smaller T/B opening.
It really makes driving the car nice and smooth away from a corner. I only wish I could find a way to open up the stock bodies to a larger secondary/smaller primary for cammed operation. It would give a better MAP signal in the plenum opposed to a larger 60 or 65mm T/B at all cruise and low speed operation parts of the fuel map, while the larger secondary is there for mechanical operation when you press it the rest of the way to the floor.
I'm thinking JeffP would appreciate such a feature on his car nowadays...heh heh heh
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I was magnifluxing the block, and found a crack in number two cylinder wall, sonic tester reveals about .135" thickness on that side of the bore, so I am almost thinking water got through somwhere else, and hydrolocked that cylinder.
Remember I said the Japanese were splitting overbored N42's under high boost conditions.
The hype surrounding megabored engines is revealed for what it really is when you start pumping serious horsepower.
Remember Electromotive was making 700+ with no more than a standard SCCA-Style overbore to clean up the cylinders round, and a standard stroke crank...
The Japanese had a saying 20+ years ago: 3.2 for Normal, but Tabo-San-Gata lives forever...
Boost, not bore. If you want valve unshrouding, notch the block accordingly. The thicker walls will pay dividends under increased cylinder pressure.
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I am picturing tonyd's bonneville motor with a head like this and wondering what 9500 RPM would sound like...
1) the head on the Bonneville engine is not limited to 9500 rpm it's simply where we shifted gears while working out actual real-world acceleration runs. It is a work in progress, there are several people who know how high that engine has actually revved on the dyno while doing 'float checks'---we haven't floated yet, BTW...
2) the head on the Bonneville engine is the same one we ran on the 2.8 motor, it's nothing special in preparation, and truthfully has far less exotic materials than many other 'street' engines I have seen overbuilt for the street.
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Don't put a catalyst on it, it will be the wrong way to go about it---the carburettors are not set up for that, and you will make more headaches than you will solve.
A standard 1971 SU setup with AIR injection will test clean out the tailpipe (the Arizona Standard) to 1983 CALIFORNIA standards.
So there is no reason under the sun, with a properly running set of SU's on an engine in decent tune that simple carburettor adjustment/tweaking and standard maintenance procedures wouldn't get you a passing grade.
No borken spark plug wires, no misfires, and not too lean or your HC will go through the roof!
But run them at 'lean best' and fully warmed up with fresh oil change (no offgassing of HC from the oil as it gets hot...) and you should pass no problem. If you don't, it's a matter of putting AIR back into the exhaust system through a Toyota Gulp-Valve system instead of a pump and belt system (good luck finding one!) like the 74 had originally.
NOx, if they even test for it, would be a spark timing and EGR situation, but pass that bridge when you have to, find out what the test criteria will be for your vehicle from the State Testing Governing Board---its' not a secret standard. Simply take your car to a place with a CO and HC meter and adjust your carbs accordingly.
It's no real big deal at all. It's a tailpipe functional test. It's easily passed by a car in good tune. Even relatively modified ones!
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The LD28 has a larger impeller. This is documented in another thread.
The folded metal pumps are junk, and are an aftermarket unit, the stock Nissan pumps are all cast impellers.
I have often thought of having an impeller cut on a five axis using some developmental software we have at work...it's just getting time in the milling machine without anybody looking...
Personally, I paint all the cast impellers with Glyptal before installation. When one finally craps out, I'll dissect it to see if it helps prevent corrosion and/or cavitation damage to the impeller.
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so I have been dealing with overheating since I added my front mount and I just figured that i was blocking most of the air the the radiator. only gets hot under high load or high rev. I basicaly replaced the heater core with a turbo, so it my be contributing to my problem, you think? Where should I tap for coolant if not there?
PM answered.
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Would be kinda cool to see a stock l28 dynoed and tuned through the afm.
147hp to the rear wheels using all stock components including ECU and AFM. 1975 280Z...
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Information Disseminator!
Your sheep will be fruitful this season with you disseminating like that all over!
I had someone argue once about N42/P82 runner size. That Excel summed up my general comments to the guy. He was not convinced. He was also 1 second slower in the 1/4 mile and swore I had a cam in my rat-trap POS Fairlady.
Small details, stacked up, make for a fun car. Like BRAAP posted, there is more to it than just an intake manifold. Spark plug wires are one of my faves as well. People think they last forever. They don't.
I babble late on in the evening. Forvgive me.
Twin Turbo l28 anyone?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Are those Skyline RB26 Turbos? That was a popular "Low Buck" conversion when the Skylines first started hitting the junkyards in pileups (er...1989...)
Looks to go to the 'Standard Trust JDM Header Flange"