Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Man, shades of Bubbles!
LOL
That sucks man. But those corners are sharp, and when you cut em, they BITE HARD!
What can you do...live and learn, right? If you're going to have a failure, may as well make it a big one.
You forgot your hood...
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nigel, I have a 91 KA tranny, and did the "C to B Bellhousing Swap"---Remove C Bellhousing, and replace with the B housing after altering the opening of the shift rod to 15mm, and opening of the countershaft bearing to the larger "C" style countershaft bearing style. Move mounting X-Member back a bit, and shorten the driveshaft 50mm...
Mine appeared to have some sort of 'hardened spacer' to make the gearset wider than the B box I replaced. I do have one of each (B and C) available on the back porch still disassembled awaiting bellhousing mods, so I can measure with my caliper in the morning and post back to this thread.
They have been doing this swap in Japan for years actually. Some speed shops sell the bellhousings (around $600 equivalent) already modified, though the japanese technique usually revolves around a complete disassembly of the gearset to swap the shiftrod out with a special one that has a turned-down end for the earlier bellhousing section. IMO altering the bellhousing holes is easier, as the swap becomes very quick that way!
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Think of two pipes, one 1" and the other 2". If you put 10lbs of pressurized water into the 1" pipe and it exits into the 2" pip the water flow will slow down and you'll lose some of the pressure. This is the same concept for the turbo. If you you "dump" all that pressure into a wider opening you'll lose pressure and speed. I hope that makes sense...
That's not quite apples and apples there. The water analogy assumes the water flow is optimized at 10psi and you open up the pipe.
In the exhaust system the exhaust gasses are restricted quite a bit, and their flow is nowhere NEAR optimized in the current passages. And regardless of all that, the turbo manifold dumps into the turbine housing, the most restrictive part of the whole system. It's exactly opposite of the 1" to 2" analogy. It's more like dumping a 2" pipe to a .375 Jet Nozzle!
What he has accomplished is making his US Spec Manifold flow more like the Euro Turbo manifold. If you have ever seen the Euro manifold, the runner towards the front is more than 1 5/8" in diameter (meaning larger than the SFP Tubular Manifold some have!) and the step on the turbo inlet flange is eliminated completely compared to the US 2.8 and JDM 2L specification manifolds.
The only difference between the 2l JDM turbo and the 2.8l US Spec unit is the A/R on the turbine is .48 as opposed to .63. THAT will make FAR more difference on the spool characteristics of the engine than the removal of restrictive manifolding. As long as that turbine A/R is that small, the exhaust manifold will not be the primary 'velocity device'.
The Euro Turbo cars have .82 A/R, with the derestrictive manifold, and 200HP rated power.
I have run both the JDM and US Spec turbine housings on a US manifold, and the spool changed noticeably. But cutting the manifold open only helped on the top end, I noticed nothing on the bottom end. Meaning the spool was the same (boost threshold), but the engines seemed much more willing to rev beyond the original 5500rpms of the stock manifold.
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Tell all that to Porsche, and remind Corky Bell he's also in error, Clifton.
I imitate only the best.
Prespinning of the compressor side is easily done with tangential entry of the BOV through an appropriately designed duct. Porsche has done it for years. And Corky's systems all had a bypass setup to assist those older turbos to lower boost threshold by removing incipient spinup loadings by bypassing around the compressor while in most N/A operation loadings.
If you saeriously think well over 3 square inches of air DIRECTLY bypassing the air filter is not something that is requiring of a filter, then have at it. Remember air takes the path of least resistance. It will flow through an open bypass valve before the filter media...it's a bit more than 'an open vacuum line' if the thing is 1/2 open and even a small one at 19 to 25mm discharge opening. IMO, that's a considerable air leak past your primary filtration.
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Yeah, a bypass valve is actually designed to remove load on the turbo during incipient spin-up, and close as manifold vacuum nears 5" Hg or thereabouts. They will open at any sort of lift throttle to keep the turbo spinning fast, ready for reboost.
This is how mine was set up on the 73 ZT, and I really liked it. I had a separate recirc hose that had a small K&N filter on it, before finally getting one of the big 3" Cones and 3" inlet pipe to allow a proper recirc line that blew into the turbo inlet to prespool the impeller wheel and connecting it to that instead.
In either case, you need some sort of filtration on the bypass valve if you have it open at idle. If you recirc it, take the time to do it right and aim the blowdown to prespin the compressor wheel properly instead of simply dumping in the inlet piping to the turbo---all that does it create flow disturbances.
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In preparation for MSA this year, I had to move some cars. The red 260ZT project I had hoped to get going last year had literally sat for a full year without being touched. Last year I'd filled with a mix of 91 and 100 octane, and had about 1/2 a tank left when it was parked the week before MSA last year.
Wednesday of last week, to get access to my wife's 260Z (the Blue Turd) I had to move the thing. I was dreading the startup process after being idle for so long.
I put a used redtop ultima battery on the fender, connected the terminals, and turned the key for the priming pulse, then cranked the car.
Fired up immediately and went to fast idle. I moved off immediately, and drove the car about 1/8 mile from the back of the property to my new concrete 'project pad' up behind the house. The thing ran flawlessly, and really suprised me that the MS was running so well. I'd expected some stumbling, a pop or stall...but no such doing! Ran great, and hopefully, now that I'm laid off unexpectedly, I will have the time to finally COMPLETE this project. Picked up some Leather Supra Seats for it the day before I was notified of the termination, so they're bought and paid for.
After almost 6 years, I may FINALLY complete the project started as a MS1 with 8X8 tables on the Magnus original MS-N-S code!
Thanks to Z-ya for the diagnosis during the final portion of the CAS travails. I think at this point, given how superbly it started and ran I only have to concentrate on physical reassembly of the interior, and some 'sitting in the SoCalSun' cosmetic refurbishment.
I hope to have it ready for some of the shows remaining this summer...
Unless I get a J-O-B and have to tie up my time with more tedious things.
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Ambient temperatures will not matter much, what is important is that if you have a choice, make the 'hot' pipe as long as possible, and the 'cold' pipe as short as possible. The decrease in temperature is what I would expect to see from this kind of rerouting of the pipes. A little thermal barrier wrapping may help on the front side of the pipe between radiator airflow and hot pipe from turbo...but putting it under the pan to get it to the other side like KTM did would probably work even better.
Many people run them 'same side' and it's just not optimal for the space available in the car. I think KTM's setup which is close to the Option B setup is close to ideal, keeping the pipe away from the heat soak of air flowing across the radiator, and lengthening the time in the hot pipe before hitting the cooler core. Longer it's in the pipe, the more chance it has to give up it's heat.
Hot pipe off the turbo will be hotter than most anything else in the engine bay short of the exhaust manifold, so routing it almost anyplace will allow it to cool.
Cool pipe off the I/C will be cooler than most anything else in the engine bay, so routing it as short as possible will allow the minimum chance of soaking in any heat.
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I'm with the rest, do NOT torque them to above what ARP says, and that means using THEIR specified lubricant.
What you have detailed in effect is ARP's 'settling procedure'...torque, relax-settle, retorque, relax-settle, final torque. You are polishing the threads and making sure in those three steps that the torque you are reading is the actual torque of the fastener, and not some residual turning friction from the threads or the bolt head on the rod surface.
They are multiple0use fasteners, but to make them last, they must be torqued to 75% of ultimate yield. If the fastener has any false torque resulting in a lower torque than specified, it will allow movement and tensile cycling of the fastener. This can result in fatigue breaks, or more likely fretting of the bolted parts.
The procedure they are using is common in other applications where very precise torques are required due to specific yield points of the fasteners. You are basically 'bedding' the components, to allow for a more accurate torque when doing the final setup. The more they are worked as a matched set the more accurate a torque reading you will get on the fastener.
That means mating the specific nut to the stud and keeping them mated for their lifetime. This will result in a more and more accurate torque for each subsequent reassembly of the component as turning friction will be further and further minimized. If you swap a nut...then the "three torques" procedure will mate them to a mimimaly acceptable state where they will return a proper torque / clamping load on the bolted component.
You can see this in Impeller Nut Torques on Centrifugal Machinery. Due to balancing requirements they are match-marked, and if you torque to the same impeller nut after balancing, you almost always see the match mark misaligned. Try it with a simple stud and nut on a thick washer on the exhaust stud. Torque it to spec, make a mark, then relax it and torque it again. See where your match-marks on the nut ends up---chances are good each time you do this, the mark will go slightly further than the time before. This will reach a point where it stops moving for the most part. This is the same thing ARP is having you do.
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Waitaminit! Are you telling me I MISSED OUT ON .50 Cent GOLDFISH WHEN I WAS IN TEXAS (Dallas/Austin/Houston) LAST WEEK?!?!??!?!?!
MAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAN!
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Beware of confusing the Roots type blower with the Lysholm Screw design of the WhippleCharger. The thermal advantages result in a much more efficient compressor.
In industrial Applications, a Lysholm Screw in single-stage applications will easily run to a 4:1 Pressure Ratio and is more limited by auto-ignition point of nearby materials than the compressors' ability to compress air efficiently.
I have seen lysholms pumping with discharge manifolds glowing dull red where operators lit their cigarettes off them!
A Roots blower is limited in automative applications for the street to under 20 psi, usually.
A Lysholm could easily run to 54psi, but at 20 psi the heat generated from a superior design and less internal recirculation will make much more power at the same boost level. They have normally six 'minipulses' per revolution, whereas the Twisted Lobe Roots would have at least three pulses where the pressure spikes and stabilizes...
in either case, the superchargers are most efficient at 'optimal tip speed'---offhand I forget what it is, but overspeeding a Lysholm results in far less efficiency losses than underspeeding it.
I would see if you can get an optimum tip speed number from technical support, and target your tip speed to be in that general area.
Roots blowers just go to hell efficency-wise when under-speeded, resulting in a lot of HEAT. Same thing happens with their overspeed performance, because of the heat generated by the over-pressurizing pulse and the inherent blowback in their design.
I digress...
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Pressurise the float bowl, and raise your fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio to your boost.
At an idle fuel pressure of 4 psi, you will need 9 psi of fuel pressure to the carb at 5 psi of boost.
It's either that, or you suck through the 750, into each of the twin turbos---which isn't hard to replumb either.
V8 forum?
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Hmmmmmmmm....
I wonder how that happened?
(He rhetorically asked, knowingly...)
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If you have a minimum of 150# of stuff to get coated, you can simply drop it off at the will call window at Sermatech Airfoil Management in Compton (Off the 91 and Wilmington) and pick it up later that same week... Prices are suprisingly inexpensive when you deal directly with the coater.
They are an FAA certified repair station for internal jet engine components, so their 'high heat' coatings are not some B.S. marketing hype. Some of them are downright ugly, but will withstand over 2500 degrees F!
Lots of the Cobra Guys take their sidepipes and headers there to be coated. Curiously, so do a lot of Top Fuel NHRA people...and some big name racing teams send their brake rotors there as well...
Isn't it amazing how much useless trivia pollutes my brain? LOL
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That is the standard for offset grinding. You weld up and offset grind. Works well.
Kameari makes a forged 85mm crank...it's cost is a bit higher than what Paeco charges.
Also keep in mind, if Paeco is standing behind their stuff like they were doing 20 years ago (they have been around for a while), Paecolloy journals are warrantied FOR LIFE against any damage. Hardfacing alloy used for VERY hard crankshafts for use in Racing Engines. If you ingest dirt or have a filter that bypasses and sends grit to the bearings, the hardfacing insures that the BEARINGS are the things that get eaten up, and not your expensive crankshaft.
Submerged Arc Welding has been commonplace in the VW performance stroker realm for years. When you can make a 2.8 and 3.0 Liter four cylinder from an engine originally of 1500 CC's, it kind of tells you something! Big bores only get you so far!!!
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I don't know about Biodiesel, but CNG (120 Octane+) is going for about $2.40 a gallon equivalent at the station by the house. And if you buck up the $1500 for the home slow-fill setup, it's closer to .40 a gallon...
But BioDiesel is good. I guess. Use the new Frontier Direct Injection V6 3L Turbo Engine... Nice power-up chipping potential.
LD is old-tech, non computer controlled Diesel. Very limited with what you can do...
If you want a turbo edition, bet on getting one from a Forklift with the Turbo and Manifold already on it, along with the properly anneriod-controlled fuel pump setup.
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I don't feel bad now knowing my Fairlady Coupe has been sitting, waiting since 1991!
Makes me look positively rabid with speed about my restoration of it! LOL
Those Racer Brown Cams are tasty! Nice old stock stuff...
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Sounds like you may be percolating, or vapor flashing in the bowls from heat generated in the engine bay soaking the bodies.
Mikuini made cooling bodies to put under the carbs to allow the fuel return line to pass through the chamber, acting as a coolant keeping the body's temperature lower during periods of low airflow through the engine bay.
Gas boils, bubbles, and can cause rich or lean conditions resulting in a misfire.
Cooling bodies solve a lot of that kind of stuff. It was 102 here (Riverside) yesterday, and I'm assuming up in Merced you guys beat us to that mark by about a week...
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Techline is in Murietta, I can get that stuff through work as well, having my offices in Buffalo order what you want, and then appearing in person to 'will call' at their offices...they're about 20 minutes from my house.
As for 270CFM per runner on a stock manifold, that is significant. I think most L-Heads only flow 210-220cfm in the ports, that would indicate that a stock manifold with optimal porting would flow all the head could take....
Check with Dave Rebello on what your intake port actually flows and match to that.
As for thermal blocking / hi tech coatings, I am and have been a big fan for a long time. It's a payback thing, though... Do you really need everything they are offering, or will your money be better spent elsewhere?
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Dont think anyones mentioned this yet- But 600 whp is FAR different from 600 crank hp.
I'll chip in that as far a Mr. Dream states, I personally attended the Bosch Dyno Session when RS Okinawa ran 444Kw to the rear wheels on their twin turbo 74 Fairlady Z-S...in 1986. No distributorless ignition, no EFI. An HKS Type 1 Surge Tank, OER 50mm carbs, HKS Twin Power CDI on a freakin' DISTRIBUTOR!
But that being said, I think the ad is more hype than truth. Receipts may prove me wrong, but I know I'm not the only one that has seen some easy bolt-on additions bump a tired 160K+ mile junkyard L28ET to 400HP...for a while.
Personally, I don't believe anything about 'internal modifications' unless someone has a sealed crankcase by a sanctioning body, or lets me talk to the engine builder with receipts in hand.
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At least State side anyway.I saw the car in Atlanta a few years ago at the Z-car convention.I think it was in the 1st issue of the former Z-car magazine also.I'm gonna go out on a limb and say it was from California,but I just dont recall exactly.It was the 1st Z I ever saw with ITB's and he had several progams completely tuned for max H.P. ,max mileage(somewhere around 30mpg as I recall) and a program for "spirited daily driving". Pretty much the standard all other engine bays are judged by IMHO.
Nope, you didn't see that car in Atlanta. The car you saw in Atlanta was Herve Oluettes' "Silver Elegance"---primary distinctions between Herve's car and the one pictured are:
*TWM Throttle Bodies, and not the Twin Injector Bodies Shown.
*Valve Cover was not "NISSAN"--totally shaved of all I.D.
*Valve Cover Vent was at the Rear and hidden in Herve's Car.
*Voltage Regulator WAS on the right inner fenderwell on Herve's Car (WHY, I have no clue, with all else he did to leave that reg out there...)
*Herve's car did not have a Distributor, it was Electromotive TECII, with the spark plug wires coming in a 'Dusenberg' style chromed loom from the firewall (TEC was in the Glove Box)
*Herve's Car had polished V-Stacks, not Annodised Blue
*Throttle Actuation on Herve's car was down underneath the ITB's and was cable actuated, not from the OEM 'Finger-Linkage' on the Firewall
And you're right about 'becoming the standard'---Herve's car was the first "Gold Medallion" Awarded by the ZCCA. He was a member of Group Z Sports Car Club in Orange Country, and had removed the car from competition in San Diego the previous year because some rocks had damaged his paint, and the 'paintless dent remover' guy screwed up the paint worse. He had to wait another year to send it to Atlanta to show it.
I thought the same thing at first, but knew it wasn't Herve's when I saw no Voltage Regulator on the fenderwell. I asked him at a club meeting one evening: "Herve, with all the money you put into this thing, why the hell did you leave an externally regulated alternator on it? I mean, a one wire is an easy conversion!":burnout:
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Yep, I have a GS31, as well as a GS30... 2/2 setup, you're right in that respect, without the "G" it's a coupe.
With an S31, you could get the "L" trim package and have electric windows! The doors from those vehicles fit nicely on 240's here in the States...
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PUMPKINCAR!
Fit to drive Jack, the Pumpkin King to the show!
I'm going to start calling you "Jack"!
LOL
Oh, BTW, will you be fitting the Cowl Induction Hood on it for the drive back to Phoenix...seeing I haven't made it out to deliver it to you? Primer Light Grey...and Orange. With Black Fender Flares.
Shouldn't draw any attention at all...
Nice compressor in the corner, BTW... LOL
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I don't know about 'form follows function'---I'm one of those guys, and for the work you would do to get that power, I would have it a bit cleaner.
And a car that 'once made' any given HP level is just that: "Once Made"....patina comes from storage.
Or another way to put it, Patina comes from Neglect.
And remember, I don't polish my anything...but my engine doesn't look that bad!
I'm tending towards "B.S."
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So, why can't we use that Paeco-Goerz head? My understanding is that basically everything that is needed is already there but the molds...
Because there's ONE in existence...
And the owner "Richard" has gone underground, I havent' seen hide nor hair from him since he came trying to make a quick buck off his SanDiego Swap Meet Find...
Other than that...
Tutorial: SR Gearbox onto L-series engine
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
OR, use an 'earlier' B-Box speedo cog carrier! The early and late B-Boxes have the same disparity, there are two carriers, each offset differently...but the 'difference' is simply that they rotated it 180 and made the hold down clamp there instead. Any B-Box cog holder can be made 'universal' for the B-Boxes (and will then fit the C-Box as well) by simply cutting the slot described above.
Monzster is correct, there is a breakpoint where the KA tranny went from Speedo Cog, to an electronic speed pulser/sensor (this is what my 91 Tranny had in it). Curiously, these retrofit to later trannies and can be used on the electronic speedometers through their calibration function. Eliminate that speedo cable! Go electronic! The cogs fit into the speed sensor hole no problem...and curiously the speed pulser used the same drive as for the speedo cable. Meaning if you cut the slot in the speed sensor/pulser it will also become universal, fitting in any A/B/C box for an E-Speedo Conversion!
I will go get the calipers now. It's been a hectic couple of day recently...corporate downsizing:-(
I'll be right back...