Tony D

non-tech? whaaaa... I'm SHOCKED! Yeah, if you can source any "Carboy" Magazine from 1985 through at least 1990 every October (If I recall correctly) there was the annual "L-Engine Shootout". I know my 1989 Issue didn't even list N/A cars that weren't running at least in the 12's. The Turbos were in Single Digits 0-400m...

That guy has outbid me on several tasty bits in the past... I wonder where he's sourcing the replicas. Or if they are real Nissan Pieces... I have seen people call the stainless trims 'chrome' more than once. For under $200, they are a decent deal for someone that wants OEM look covers. The brackets are easy enough to make...

That VIN would make it a 240. 260's are definately RLS-30 vehicles. And they did start with RLS30-000XX because I know who owns 260Z #90... There have been people that tried swapping 280/260 climate HVAC systems into earlier cars... And believe it or not, I have a FariladyZ S30-06225 that someone hacked in a set of 260 / 280 tail lights... I know HLS30-156466 is a 73 240, I own that one as well. Strange Beast. Strange Seller. E-Bay Standard.

Why is the companion flange empty? Shouldn't the splined/threaded portion of the stubaxle still be inside there, or did you deflange it/remove it/ partially reassemble for photos? I don't see the threaded end on the stubaxle where your nut goes, so I'm assuming that is the scenario. Kameari makes nice pieces to replace these as well.....$$$

Yeah, I remember seeing the pressure buildup in the adapter plenum, I figure those are the 'easy' holes to machine...LOL Thanks!

Oh, I see I have garnered an "official site moniker"! Better than what it could have been, I suppose...LOL Wonder when that changed. Man, I'm oblivious to stuff sometimes.

Yes, where they are placed determines their function. It is not necessarily resonator/muffler, or muffler/resonator. There may be multiple resonators to take out different harmonics or accoustic signatures. Generally Mufflers have chambers which the gasses pass though in some fashion, and 'trap' accoustic signatures through change of direction. Resonators usually are simply straight through chambers that add volume at a given place. They may have baffles, there may be glass wool packing, or it may be simply a 'bulge' in the piping to add volume to the exhaust system. If there are chambers and change of direction involved within the unit, chances are very good it is NOT a resonator, it's a muffler---and anything else in the system is either a catalyst or resonator! A muffler will work almost anywhere in the system, but a resonator requires very careful and specific placement to do what it does. Because they accomplish the noise reduction in different ways, it becomes critical that the resonator be placed at the proper location for maximum effect. Put a glasspack at the headpipe, and listen. Then put it at the end of the exhaust system... Totally different accoustic signatures. Because it's more suited for 'resonator' duty, it's placement within the system will change how it sounds. Then try it with a Flowmaster...sounds the same...may not be flowing the same, but that is the biggest difference between muffler and resonator. More correctly than saying they serve similar purposes, but do it in different ways would be to say that a muffler is a 'general purpose' noise reduction device---it works on a broad spectrum of signatures. While the Resonator is a very specific tool that is designed and placed to remove specific noises (the boom at 2500 rpm that happens on 2.5" exhausts, it's a midrange drone that gets resonant and amplifies itself 3X near the low end of the torque plateau, for example). A neat trick is to listen and see when your exhaust gets the quietest when on the road. It tells you a lot about the design of the system. My buddy had a Trust System on his Box Skyline, and as we were driving down the expressway one day at 140kph, we came to the sudden realization that the exhaust note was TOTALLY absent. Slowed down to 135 and like someone hit the stereo loudness switch bwaaaAAAAA. Speed back up to 140, and as you neared 138 it started getting quiet, and by 140 the exhaust was totally silent. From that point it was like 'starting over' as the exhaust started getting louder again at 145 and up... We noticed this was different depending on load in the vehicle as well. When 4 people were in it, silence occurred at 140 kph. With only 2 people it was closer to 120 kph... Obviously engine load has a bearing on the noise signature.

Jeff, if the HKS Type 2 was to have a series of holes bored in the wall separating the upper plenum from the lower plenum, what kind of flow icrease/improvement would there be? Reason I'm asking is the Type 2 will be going on those HKS ITB's, and I really have no need for the restriction in the upper plenum...but would like a better flowing 'period correct' looking piece when I install it on my 73. I'm thinking I can access the wall with a drill bit through the carb openings, and then enlarge the holes by hand with a right angle die grinder. Yes, I could use the Type 1 in the application, but the Type 2 is what HKS was hawking for the ITB's when they came out. Thanks!

And why would that be? Euro Turbo Cars ALL had an oil cooler, auto AND 5 speed. They also had Differential Coolers. Chances are good if you are doing freeway driving for long distances, or exuberant driving, the oil cooler is a good thing to have... The reason for the oil cooler is the freeway operation RPM with the Automatic. It's much higher than with the 5 speed (here in the USA at least), and that added rpms means more heat to dissipate through the oil system. If you drive fast, that oil cooler is something you want. I install them on my cars with a Thermostat (OilStat)... If your oil temperature is much about 240 degrees F, you should consider retrofitting an oil cooler to any L-Engine you may have...

"IMSA G-Nose Spoiler" Does exactly that. And the damned FRP hood STILL bulges up at speed from underhood pressure!

The Autozone in MADERA has them in the 'chrome zoomie' section, along with the wire separators and valve cover vents, etc... Same for the Autozone in MODESTO... About equidistant in either direction, you should check it out for an alternate source. For another alternate check in any Pep Boys 'Wall of Bling' where they will have the same throttle cable setup, as well as several other 'kickdown cables' for V8 Hydramatic Transmissions. They have a nice 'throttle cable' possibility. And they are everywhere!

I can attest that an R180 differential under endurance racing conditions can get hot enough to melt the plastic vent off the top and still run for miles and miles and miles (Average 85mph for 16+ hours, with only a 20 minute driver/fuel/fluid stop every 2.5 hours). But if you didn't ever check (like during a service stop) you would never know. It's not going to seize up during a race, but knowing what it is doing during the race would be nice---and crewmembers checking it during a fueling stop and reporting to engineering would help. It would also alert them to the possibility that something has come up and gotten meshed in the diffy cooler, and that possibly they should send a man under to run their gloved hand over it and dislodge anything up under there causing a blockage...

Ahhh, the tools on Youtube are calling it a 280 and then correcting themselves that it's a 240 "Yo".... Argh! I saw the SSS car in Mainland Japan while stationed there. SSS was a big deal in the late 80's and early 90's. They must have faded out. Sad really. They made several vehicles like that one, basically as film 'chase cars'. There was a 'Making of' style video out at the same time that showed how they filmed it. If you watch closely, you can see the big blue flame out the tailpipe as he lifts and shifts early on in the trailer. In the Making of Video you can actually see the blue flame work it's way up the pipe in the dark. It's reeeeallly cool. This is what was going on in Japan every night....20 years before "The Fast and the Furious" made it's debut here! Just keep that in mind when someone says they are the 'first' to do anything on an early Z....

In 1981, when I was working in a small local machine shop in Michigan, boring was $20 a hole including finish honing. So yea, $130 for an L is an astounding price today considering inflation! Velios Machine in LA is $50 a bore hole...then again that's a hot bore with girdles and plates. Probably overkill on a street engine...

Yes, with cooler (read sober) heads prevailing, BRAAP is correct, the pattern is different than what was in ours. It does look like a broken ring land. Looking at it again, it looks too far 'to one side' to be the piston pin anyway. BRAAP is right, the 'double score' is what we had. Not a polishing like you have. But then again....going on my second Big Gulp of Captian Morgan & Diet Coke may have had some bearing on my exuberance that evening... Come to think of it, I still have some DC in the Big Gulp out in the truck, I better go get it before the ice waters it down too much and get a-mixing. JeffP sunk the rings and lands on Five of Six cylinders at 8.39 psi of boost. Boost really is irrelevant, you run lean and detonate, things will break, some sooner than later. As for what caused the interference to walk.... I'm thinking something like 60+ miles running at 8500rpm+ in 1.5 and 5 mile bursts... It was up to 8400 by the end of the first mile at Bonneville, and then gained 500 rpm each mile subsequently... That might have had something to do with the small ends 'moving around a bit' and loosing grip on the pins and letting them walk to the walls.

No, never been to Finland, but grew up in the U.P. of Michigan listening to Karl Pellenpaa every Sunday Morning on "Finland Calling", a local show out of Marquette done entirely in Finnish for all those from the old country that emigrated to work locally in the mines. Lots of "Maki's" Keskamaki, Millimaki, Marjomaki...hell just plain old Maki as well. We had Eino and Toivo, and all sorts of 'old country' names. You don't expect American kids to have names like Toivo, or Orlo Olaf..... LOL The U.P., from what I could tell, was very similar to Finland in the Birch Trees, and of course, EVERYBODY had a sauna at 'The Camp'. I grew up on the 'bottom seat', while all the 'old men with no hair' sat on the top seats in the Sauna, whipping each other with freshly-cut evergreen switches. Ahhhh, whip it up and get that pine oil into your pores, then open the door and dash out into -40 weather and roll around in the snow to 'seal the smell in'... Man, now you got me all misty-eyed about my youth! LOL "I digress" Sorry for veering off topic. Back to the regularly scheduled programming...

Oh, I missed that you already had a Computer Controlled car! "D'OH!" The internal regulator for 5VDV Vref in the ECU should be plenty for one more sensor. If you have a TPS, like Tim suggested just grabbing +5V from the existing source for the stock ECU should work fine as long as you have the same ground plane for both units. That may not even be that critical, as it's going to read it's own sensor feedback to it's own respective ground plane...

Don't apologize for your English! Especially with a nice brace like that to your credit. I only wish my Finnish was as good as your English... All I can remember is Soumi, Sauna, Sisu, and of course "Eeeey, Buska Paa!"... (spelling in Finnish is not a strongpoint of mine! LOL)

By no means am I trying to rub salt in the wounds, but I would be remiss not to point out the obvious and say: 'your photos would indicate otherwise' The choice of full floater and pressed in is (IMO) a matter of how often you plan of pulling down the engine for refreshing. People were shocked we did not use Full Floaters in our Bonneville Engine...but why? We ran four seasons on the engine before something made the piston pins work out and kiss the walls. Obviously we didn't pull it down after every meet (hell, or every season for that matter!) and missed something that should have indicated pin movement. But unless you are pulling the thing down all the time, what advantage do you have on full floaters? And with small teflon buttons on stock pins if something DOES happen, at least you can save your cylinder bore till you DO get it apart. The L20A does have teflon pin buttons on Pressed-In pins. 9500 rpms. Stock Rods. Chances are good (again IMO) that we wasted money on the pin buttons on this engine. I don't see pins scoring the walls. I see catastrophic failure and spectacular engine damage from something snapping at that rpm level. But the L28 was only 8500, and that's really an enduro setup by comparison. Some pin buttons and pressed in pins means you have to go see the machinist to change pistons. Full floater, pull some circlips or spiralocks and you got a new slug on your rod. Nice for a quick refresh during the week in between races. As long as everything ie weight matched!

WELCOME TO THE CLUB! Our Bonneville engine did that with pressed-in pins, and our damage was 0.080" scores down all six bores. Makes you think a second time about teflon buttons in an OEM rebuild....

Just to clarify, the MET degree everyone is speaking of is a four-year degree, and not an Associates Program, correct? Differential Equations. Argh. I digress...

The fittings on the stock cooler are a 45 SAE fitting, they ARE NOT Jic 37 degree-AN (ask me how I know this!) If you find the proper metric straight thread to AN/JIC adapter, then standard 'AN' fittings will work. I think the thread for the banjos are 1.5 pitch as I recall. It's posted somewhere.

I would do the regulator thing. David Ulbrick drew up a quick schematic for me, I think it's at the Megasquirt sticky... Anyway, it's a solid state device with three leads, power in, out and ground if I recall correctly. It's really bizzare, don't you think, that the Alky unit would not have a +5VDC source plug from it's control box for universal installation? I guess older cars without computer controls are getting to be the exception rather than the norm!

The question to ask is if the electronic speedo is calibrated to the same input rpm as the 79 130 mph unit you have. They usually have the califration speed for 60mph written on the gauge face (some obscure number like 1048rpm). If you take a non-contact tachometer, a Variable Speed Drill, and spin up your head to the given speed, you can see if the speedometer head is reading what it should. I have all this stuff, so it's easy for me to do. That at least tells you if the speedo head is off, and by what percentage. If it's dead on, then a cog is the problem. Also, if you can do a 'timed mileage' segment in your car. Measure out 5280 feet and mark it with paint, and then drive at an indicated 60 mph through that section of roadway with a stopwatch...you can also calculate the speedometer system error. Many states have highway sections set up to do just this. For every second over and under makes it easy to figure out real speed. 30 seconds to cover the mile? 120mph, and 100% speedo error. When you do the 'timed mile' method, it becomes easy to just put in a different cog that 'gets you close' without going to a speedo shop and having is calibrated. In my state (California) the AAA will run spedometer calibration clinics, and let you run your car on a machine to you know your error. You also get a certificate to show your car was checked. It becomes interesting when you have a certificate showing your speed error, and you can then use it to confirm your statement of your speed. Short of those alternatives, you're off to the speedo shop to get recalibrated. I haven't checked the speed difference for your tires, but that is a big thing that affects the indicated speed of your vehicle. You can always have someone 'pace you' and get an idea of the speed error. And be forewarned: IT MAY NOT BE LINEAR. I have had MANY cars that were spot-on at 30mph, but off by 5mph at 65, and off by well over 15mph at 120! It's a percentage error usually, but sometimes with the mechanical speedos the higher speeds just go whacky. Good Luck!

I'm just happy four other guys showed up at World Finals in Bonneville this year with a G-Nose! When G-Noses outnumbered non-G-Nosed Z's, the tide was turned and they decided it might not be good to disallow it... It would have been a case of what once was legal in a class, now bumping it into another (Altered) class. FYI, our first record was right up JMortensens alley: The El Mirage record broken was set in 1987 by the Dodge Factory Team in an effort that brought four 40 foot Semi Trailers and countless engineers to the Dry Lakebed. We built it all in our garages/sheds, and SPANKED 'EM! (And the guys in tech said it best: "We love it when someone who built the car in their garage beats a factory effort with all that backing!" That was 1999, and it's still standing (knock on wood). Call us 'The Satisfied Cat' on that day! WOO HOO!