Tony D

Hey, what difference does that make? My wife already knows to write me off second Thursday of each month! Romantic fool am I...NOT! I ended up with a Lokar end and sheath, with a Nissan cable and end. Now working on the quadrant attachment to the SSS manifold.

Yes, I touched on this somewhere else in that VW's commonly use 1.25 rockers, and there are 1.5 and 1.7 ratio rockers available. When you use a cam designed for stock rockers, you can usually get away with running them on 1.25 rockers and get more lift and duration...but at the expense of an altered acceleration rate on the valves. You can run into problems when running the wrong ratio rockers. You can float your valves if you have the wrong set on there. They have different ramps and profiles when you are using 1/5 and 1/7 rockers. And they say so when you buy the cam. That all being said, we aren't changing the ratio all that much. For the same setup, you are merely optimizing lift and opening time available. What centering the lobe will do is keep the ratio as constant and near 1.5 as possible. If you draw out the wipe pattern on a moving piece of paper you can visualize the effect a bit better...at least I can. You 'slap' the rocker a bit more when you cheat the wipe pattern to the pivot due to the way the cam approaches the pad...but with adequate lubrication it's not a big deal. I'd put Don up against the late Racer Brown and Ron Iskendarian in the L-Engine Assymetric Cam Profile Knowledge Camp any day. If you've ever had the opportunity to read the Racer Brown articles on camshaft profile on the L-Engine, you are doing yourself a disservice. Find those articles and read them, they are a WEALTH of knowledge on the subject. And were written in the early 70's curiously... Oh, and from what I have seen (and you can verify it with your own degree wheel) changing the lash clearance you run will also change the cam timing for that individual cylinder. As little as 0.002" change in lash can move opening and closing events several degrees! It's all in the little details!

Guys, LAG is the time it takes to build boost AFTER reaching boost threshold. It's nil in most modern day turbos. What you are concerned about is Boost Threshold, the point at which the turbo will build full boost. JeffP's GT35 will do full boost at 3400rpms, so I can believe 4000 on a 2.6L. Any point after 3400 in Jeff's car, and boost is instantaneous. There is no 'lag'... To appreciate what lag really is, you guys need to drive some stuff from the 60's and early 70's when you could full throttle it, and literally wait up to a second and a half to get ANY boost to kick in! THAT is lag. Things have changed. Lag really is a thing of the past. As for 35 or 37, I'd probably tend to go with a 37 if you think you realistically will have that much power to the rear wheels. A 35 is about all in a little past 500rwhp. And like Monzster said, there are some permutations of the 35 that will enable better spool, so if you want to tone down your power thoughts you can get something with a boost threshold below 3500, and nice on-boost throttle modulation for high horsepower track manouvres. Where are you in Midland, BTW? I bought my VW Bus from a guy off Salzburg. Next time I come for some time at the Lake, we should get together, I got a cabin on Huron up in Tawas.

Stay away from the 'loud' valves. They use high flow rates across the orifice to make the noise. That actually disrupts flow, so they need to oversize the valve orifice to get it to flow what it does. Listen to a Porsche next time he shifts, and tell me what you hear. Then take a look at how big their valve is... The blowoff should sound like a big sigh more than anything else. i liked the old Indycar Blowoffs: Nothing then WHOOMP! Just blow open,vent and close as soon as the throttle was reopened. Never heard a 'woosh' or a 'chirp' just the sound that felt like someone hitting you across the kidneys with a cricket bat! Man, I miss 47" Hg Turboboost and manual shifts off turn 11 at Long Beach... I digress!

Wow, I'm suprised the paradigm is so rigid and fast. Glad to see at least katman thinks outside the box! What ever happened to removing the passenger's seat, rolling it up some boards on to the floor, and then carostrapping it securely using eyebolts in the seatbelt anchor points. Lower it is, the SAFER it is, and EASIER it is to simply roll in and out with a PUSHING motion instead of a LIFTING motion. I could (and did) transport my VW Engines in the passengers seat area whenever I needed to take the engine in for service. Heck, I could load that myself, without a hoist, but then it's only about 250#...that's a pretty easy deadlift with the legs. I'd not put it in the hatch area...it's overloading the rear suspension and there's no real way to secure it properly in the even of a panic braking situation.....er....you're kissing the steering wheel with a severed spine. No thanks! Passenger's floor, or rent the truck for $19 and hour and .38 cents a mile. It's like removing nuts and bolts with a hammer and chisel...with the intent of re-using the nuts and bolts sans the corner you mangled in the removal process. Sure, you CAN do it....but why?

well that second photo answered two questions my kid had... "Yes, the SSS Induction system will fit in my 1970 Wagon." "Yes, the throttle quadrant can be installed without breaking up the stock throttle setup on the manifold." Now a question from dad: Where did you get the throttle quadrant you used on that setup? And could you sent me a couple of detailed photos of how you got that quadrant to fit??? turbotonyATexciteDOTcom Thanks! ;^)

I've always used a chisel to knock the lock in a loosening direction till I can grip it with a vicegrips and spin it off. It doesn't take but a few whacks to get the thing set and moving, and in about 1/4 turn it spins off easily. I will have to try this 'new technique'... I 'learned' the other technique by transferring it from VW's. Poor Teenagers using the "Idiot Manual" got used to removing the 46mm axle nuts on VW Busses using a chisel to drive the nuts off in similar fashion. You can take it off and 'retorque it' three times before needing to find another nut using this technique....

All that time looking at the laptop in the parking lot, and he doesn't know what system you're running. Bo, you ever get the idea Jeff may have had one beer too many that night at Fuddrukers? LOL BTW, nice cameo shot of you polishing the car at MSA last year (at least I think it was you) on the MSA Event DVD (now in stores...LOL) Get that AFR ironed out and see what your spark does then. If you aren't somewhat close to optimal on the AFR (and 9's and 10's are WAY too rich) then the tendency to light off the mixture REGARDLESS of your coil/plug/gap combination will be low.

The impeller blades in the factory pump are far enough spaced to allow plenty of flow with a pump in the lower radiator hose like a Davies-Craig. It will simply bypass the vanes, there is not any interference fit, and it's not positive displacement, it can flow backwards easy enough. Again, remember that you DON'T want to reduce the pressure at which the pump operates! The higher pressures induced by the pump at higher rpms DIRECTLY affect the incidence of spot-boiling on the surfaces of the engine that is the hottest: upper cylinder walls and head. Lower the operating pressure in the engine block (at the pump outlet), and you will start to see cylinder wall failures due to steam-impingement cavitation as it eats the cylinder walls and makes them like swiss-cheese perpindicular to the piston pin bores (ask me how I know this....) You can lower the pressure, but you will correspondingly have to RAISE the blanket pressure on the top of the water (giving more pump suction head pressure (NPSH) to the water pump. More pressure at the inlet will result in the same pressure at the outlet with less work put in...but you will be waiting a time for the inlet pressure to come up due to expansion. unless you want to run an inert gas blanket from an onboard N2 Bottle... This is theoretical. The HP you will 'save' will be at the expense of metal parts experiencing cavitation and steam pocket formation at lower loads. For something like a hit-or-miss farm engine, it's fine. But when you start talking about high horsepower engines under load, it's not a good idea IMO.

Actually, I would run the 150's and not give a second thought about it. Even if that was wiping off the end of the pad, it's going to be nosed-over almost instantly thereafter. Also, now that I went back and checked, the "How To Modify" book mentions running off the end of the pad towards the pivot is safer than running close to the valve end. The way the dynamics work on that, the pivot end is the safe end to 'cheat' on! BTW, verify your cam timing! Also, this 150 -vs- 160 is one of the little things that makes for more HP on the 'exact same engine'. Sometimes a little means a lot (ITS engines mentioned above...) Having a clear blue mark on the pivot end is clear indication you are 'safe'. Even with some theoretical movement, it's not moving as much as you have 'blue margin'---if it is, you have OTHER problems to worry about! Putting it dead center makes for nice geometry, but saying it's for 'safety' is a bit of a red herring. They don't move that much!

Muahahahaaha! L20B rods in L28 Block? Muahahahaha!

A water pump IS a turbo! It has the same sort of mapping. The premise of reducing line losses is a red herring IMO. The engine needs turbulent flow to get a good heat exchange, and the 'improvements' in reduced parasitic drag by streamlining hose connectors and the like will be purely theoretical. An Engineering Problem to eat up time, and see a theoretical savings. But in the real world the effective available horsepower will be nil. IMO, the more efficient method would be to run an appropriately sized electric pump which can idle down during low-load periods and which has a battery to smooth out impact-loading of high load times so you are not drawing maximum amps during periods coinciding with maximum heat production. Decreasing your pressure drop across the engine by increasing the flow will result in decreased thermal transfer time (residence time) as well as possibly lowering the operating pressure---which will have detrimental effects in the formation of steam pockets and impingement-induced cavitation damage on castings, impellers, etc... It's a much more complex system than simply streamlinging this or decreasing that. Change one thing, and you change a LOT of other things. There was a posting recently about 'cavitation' which had a 1950's era engineering filmstrip linked within it---it is a very good 32 minutes to spend watching. You learn a lot about increasing flowrates and decreasing pressures and what happens within a fluid when you do those things.

argh...

I spent $1000 for one in rougher appearance...to the untrained eye. But when you realize it was a 71 Fairlady that was imported to the US in 76 from mid-Japan, and that it spent it's entire life from 76-91 in the Phoenix AZ area.... Rust does not come into the photo. Sure, it's rough looking. But rought looking and solid is way better than rough looking and rusty! At least that's how I rationalize spending that much on it. My other 3 Fairladies I got were nowhere near that price. Matter of fact, one was outright given to me! So that knocks down the 71's cost, right? And generally, contrary to opinions otherwise, I have found Fairlady Z's generally sell for a premium above what a comparably conditioned LHD model would sell. If you have a $700 75 280Z, chances are a Fairlady Z in similar condition will sell for more, anywhere from a couple of hundred, to up to $1000 more. I rarely have seen Fairlady Z's command more than $1000 more than the comparably conditioned LHD Model of similar vintage. To most people they ARE worth more. I have bought them from people for money when I would never even consider an LHD model in similar condition. Some stuff is worth having around, just in case you need it. What's an uncracked 73 Fairlady Z Dashboard worth? Muahahahaha!

Lokar makes a throttle cable piece that will snap on the ball throttle end, and if you source any Nissan cable, you c an screw that baby on the end of either the Lokar cable, or the Nissan cable and snap it right on there. Easier than modding the pedal like I did years ago. Some said that Pep-Boys has cables that will work, but I haven't seen them there in stock, at least.

Most of the serious horsepower turbo L engines run auxillary coolant lines out the top of the cylinder head on the spark plug side. And electric pump could save drag by only running at the speed required for cooling, speed variable by temperature. And of course, reverse flowing the system could pay benefits, but isn't as easy as on a SBC. The Nissan LD28 water pump is of higher capacity as well. Check the thread on that. Little known tidbit that I picked up hanging around JGK and TimZ...

JeffP is loosing 30cfm per cylinder with the stock manifold he is using. It was extrude honed and flows significantly better than the stock one before being honed....

Gasoline Rag Rum Bottle freshly emptied Match... "I was Drunk"---maybe it'll fly. Like the gasoline in the rum bottle with the lit rag sticking out of it...onto the roof of the 'repair' facility. If nothing else, it gives you a falling-down good drunk... I've cancelled cards, and when you use that word, there are all sorts of people who come on the line to try and change your mind. My favorite line: "Oh wait, you want to now waive the $29 fee on an unpaid .32 cent unpaid balance because you now realize you gave me the improper payoff ammount last month? But when I told you earlier you never sent me the bill (ur...because the balance was less than the cost of their bulk mailing costs for the bill no doubt) that was NOT a reason to waive the fees? That's fine, you will get your $29.32 and will NEVER have my rotating balance ever again. MBNA has a 9% card, and I'll just start using it instead of your lamea$$ card. This is being recorded correct? I just want to make sure you are saying if I pay you $29.32 I can cut up my cards and never deal with you again." And you don't even want to know what I told BofA about my mortgage payments and their inability to post them in a timely fashion...

In Vegas, at least you can count the cards. It makes the odds of a big payoff at least statistically viable. You can make money actively trading, but going to Vegas with $400 and playing Blackjack has as much upside potential in hours as opposed to days. And you at least get a vacation out of it. Not a player, more of a long term buyer, compound interest, DRIP kind of guy... If I was to 'buy' anything right now, it would be "F" when it hits anything near $6 even, and ride (short term for me) the next three years to see where it goes. As for creative ways of financing, how does your wife/girlfriend/lifepartner feel about you possibly doing some manwhore work?

Oh, these are little bumps and bruises. Wait till you start buying impounded Z's from police auctions and see what happens when they reach the absolute bottom of the food chain. All I will say is: "At least a weld bead was not involved." Or speaker wire. Speaker wire is a universal headlight/fuelpump/battery ground cable replacement for impounded Datsuns... Good to see your strut is handled.

Back in the 80's when I was in Japan a set of headlight covers was 30,000 yen (G-Nose) and the standard nosed S30 covers were 23,000 yen. At that time, the yen exchange rate was 268 to a dollar, so doing quick math you can see that retail pricing in Japan was $111.94 for the G-Nose Covers (PER PAIR) and $85.82 for the standard S30 Covers. Which would jibe nicely with SRGuns commented price, given that in the 70's the yen was over 300 to the dollar. That makes for the US MBA Standard 100% markup. I have no idea who was paying $500 for them 'back in the day' but unless there was a PILE of other parts involved they were getitng ripped off. Datsun Competition Parts Catalog in 1976 didn't list them for anywhere NEAR that price! I could buy a complete G-Nose for under $1500 when they were selling here in the States for close to $3200. When the yen rate dropped precipitously around 1986 or '87 from 268 to 130, and eventually 105, the dollar price for them doubled, but the yen price remained constant. This is why I was involved in aluminum recycling back then, kept my dollars free for dollar wants, and my yen for things JDM remained unquashable with a steady stream of old stern looking men on 1000 yen notes coming to me from scrap ecycling every saturday afternoon! Now, unless you have connections in Japan, you are SOL getting them through a Nissan Dealer. As someone with 3 Fairlady Z's having a couple of sets for proper period correct accessories would be nice. I haven't scammed a trip to Japan via work yet, but if I ever do my Visa Card will take SUCH a beating!!! LOL

How old is the older dog? It may be time for the permanent nap. As dogs age, they can become unpredictable. Our shepard mix was very docile until about 13 years old. The last 6 months of her life she started exhibiting very agressive behaviour towards the other dogs we have. Boxers are very intelligent and will take to training well. Myfriend in NJ has had nothing but purebred boxers for almost 25 years now (on his third), and they are very sociable with other dogs as well as other animals in the house of given the proper opportunity and reinforcement on initial introductions/interactions. There comes a time when they (olderr dogs) can slip what would normally be considered 'pack dominance' issues. The cuts on the boxer look pretty severe for a 'dominance' style of fight. If you have more than two dogs, they may be ganging up on the 'newcomer' and WILL kill it if led by an older dog that is starting to 'slip'. Watch the older dog, especially around children. I would segregate the older dog until you can positively determine the source of it's behaviour. It may simply be time to put it down. Dogs are not humans, and bad behaviour is dealt with simply: euthanasia. The bastardization of several breeds by poor breeding practices (pit bulls, rotts, etc) and refusal to cull unacceptable behaviours when displayed is a big problem leading to evermore restrictive ordinances. Most important, protect your kids until you can determine what the older dog is doing, and why. I would tend to keep the docile younger dog (especially around kids) and put the older, more aggressive dog out to adoption, or put it down. Dogs are usually very cool about having other dogs around to play with...

Wow. CFD is scary cool. What's even scarier is that old HKS Type 1 with the baffling that looks eerily like it would counteract the vorticies. I'm not sure where I'm working next week, but now I'm really curious as to how those HKS Plenums would test out...and how HKS came up with the designs they did when they put them into production! I'm going to go back and watch those videos again....

Kameari makes an 85mm crank, from what I understand, wouldn't that solve the deck height problem as well?

It's not TONY's theory, it's Electramotive's Testing that came up with that number. Stock rods were failing before the end of testing, so they went aftermarket to be able to run to the end of some endurance events. NHRA rods last one run, then they are replaced. Everything has a limit. Be careful of giving an endurance O.K. when you aren't putting the things on a Dyno and holding peak torque or horsepower for 25 hours..... It's like saying a stock L28ET is good for 500HP. It is! For how long is anybody's guess. I know at 350HP a simple N/A N42 Engine is still good at 75K miles. Most stock engines will run in developmental testing on an engine dyno at either peak torque or peak horsepower for 200 hours and then be wear-checked. For the street that is considered 'acceptable' testing. For an industrial engine in stationary service it's not even close! Street setups are notoriously deceptive on what they really tell you about longevity, people rarely have them long term to do actual measurements. As for rpms, stock rods go higher in RPM's than most people will think they do...