Tony D

Yes, that was what I was getting at as well, turn off the accel and then work it back in slowly. The numbers are a rate of change, the difference between 300/s and 100/s is three times the 'quickness' of depressing the throttle. That is what I was getting at by the difference between 'rolling on' the throttle to pass when there is plenty of time, and giving it a quick stab like when you're revving the engine at a stoplight. If you have your mixture tuned correctly, you will be able to 'roll on' at speed and notice no stumbling, but when you stab it there will be a little stumble till airspeed catches up. AFter you have 'slow roll-on' response set, you can then work on accel enrichments slowly bringing in threshold till it triggers when you stab the throttle and you don't get the accel stumble. The numbers have to be pretty high for them not to come on---I may have misused 'spiking' in my earlier post, but your datalog shows pretty clearly that ANY change in the TPS reading---even 1% will trigger an accel or decel event. That is way too sensitive. Turn off all your accel/decel enrichments by setting the threshold setting skyhigh while you are tuning---what you have is a situation where your VE tables and Injector pulsewidth will NEVER have any direct link because of all the accel/decel events tweaking the mixture. As for plug reading, if they are sooty black then you're rich. That's all most people can reliably tell. You can NOT read spark plugs by reading the extended tip of the porcelan---that is incorrect reading methodology, if you use that you will ALWAYS be one or two jet sizes too rich! You have to use a loupe with a ring magnifier/illuminator to see what the color of the porcelan is at the base juncture where the metal meets it way up inside the plug body. This short surface, just maybe a mm or mm and a half wide is the section of the porcelan that is cool enough to NOT burn-off deposits and give a TRUE mixture reading when a clean-cut is done. I have had people say 'well when I read them your way it's always telling me they are rich!' Well, Duuuuuh! That's because THEY ARE! A nice tan tip out by the electrode will be black and sooty at the base---because you are rich! It's just that during normal operation the extended tip is running so hot it will combust the soot that normally would be deposited there as part of the combustion cycle. You have to look where the porcelan is COOL and can't alter the reading by self-cleaning (patented) properties of a tapered-extended tip porcelan center electrode insulator. Good Luck!

My main bone of contention is the 'you don't need porting'... Boost is merely a measurable manifestation of restriction to flow. If your engine does not pump air efficiently, or 'flow well' then, yes, of course, you will need 'maximum boost' per the title of the book. But if you build an engine utilizing proper and sound engineering principles, the boost you need for any given horsepower level will be considerably less.

I really like that dash. I jumped in on page three, and was trying to figue out what dash it was....then I realized it was an S130 dash and went "OH COOOOOL!" Nice work. After the company is a success, and you are exploiting the labor of others to your own benefit, you will have more money and time to spend on thesee type of things....LOL

64'th? What system is that? I guess is slightly better than .5mm which is 'eyeball close' on my tapes...LOL I agree, jig the car up level, and use a laser level. They take a lot of the guesswork out of where stuff is really going. Even if it's not level, if it has the 'level reset' feature it's as easy as setting the angle on the tranny output flange, and then sticking it on the differential flange and reading the angular misalignment...you can go to a 1/10th of a degree on most of the digital levels. It will take you longer to read this post than it will to actually do the procedure. Now that I think about it, you probably don't have the diffy moveable, so you would do it in reverse...measure the pinion angle, and then match the engine/trans angle to what you have in the back. I use one that was given to me at work for machinery alignment checks. It changed a procedure that formerly used machined bars and depth micrometers from a 2 hour procedure to one that takes less than 2 minutes. Most of that was simply set up of indicators! Good Luck.

Like Cap Jack said, a little cutting on a 3.8L V6 Taurus Fan Shroud and it looks like it was a Nissan Product! Some other fans may require more attention, or maybe my definition of 'a lot' is different than other people's. You might want to take a look, and not discount something out-of-hand before judging firsthand for yourself. A Taurus fan is a saleable commodity if you think it's not your bag of tea---you won't have to sit on it long. It's a junkyard part anyway, just keep the cost low and if you don't like the way it looks when you hold it up there, sell it! I have dual 10" fans on one of the other cars, because at the time the single didn't move enough air. I would put nothing on there that didn't move at least 5000CFM to give it cycle time. I find my cars usually run about 30-35mph in top gear on the hottest days before the temperature will rise above thermostat control, meaning the radiator is not rejecting the heat. If you figure the stock S30 Radiator has about 2 square feet of surface area exposed to airflow, and 30 mph is half of 60mph (5280 linear feet per minute) you come up with 5280 Cubic Feet per minute that should be able to pass across the radiator at 30mph... Figure if I start overheating without a fan at that speed, I should have a fan that moves at least that much or I will have something that will overheat. As it turned out, it cycles nicely only when I'm in stop-n-go. Never have a fan coming on at anything above 30 mph, no matter how hot it's getting. Similar for the Taurus Fan, it cycles, and like someone said in another post, High Speed is probably overkill for most applications. But I like the fan to come on, COOL IT DOWN, and then shut off. I use an 80Amp relay to switch it...I found the amperage rating of most relays is a surge rating, and when you put a 30Amp fan that draws 30 amps on a 30Amp (name brand begins with a "B") relay, they pretty much don't last very long at all, and get HOT as hell. Using the same manufacturer's 80 amp relay (bigger contacts and spades on the bottom) gives flawless operation. Cost for the Taurus Fan is a factor as well. For $30 at the junkyard, I could literally pull it out, remount it in a frame I weld together from scraps, and be happy I didn't spend big bucks on something that may or may not work. If you get those CFMs mentioned above, you should be O.K., I'd simply not trust what a Fan OEM says about what it will cool or not. I'll make my decision on the CFM it moves and go from there. Got burned by manufacturers claims before, and since figuring out the CFM thing, haven't had a bad application yet!

Chrome, make it chrome, gentlemen! Everybody knows the chrome one will make the most speed and power!

Makes a neat sound when the engine is running as well. "Auditory Bling"---though the uninitiated will make comments like 'you need to get your power steering pump fixed'! :Roll Eyes: What can you do with some people? I know the cam timing is very precise after installation. The movement of the cam was very tightly linked to the crankshaft position in forward or reverse. When timing the cam, if you happen to bump the crankshaft without knowing it, the indicator can move several degrees...with this setup, you see the cam move IMMEDIATELY! Nice!

Ya know, I thought the exact same thing naviathan...at least decently competent at soldering since I'd been through a NASA Certified Soldering Class like 20 years ago. how hard can it be, right? First unit worked pretty well till it went mysteriously DOA. Even Pete couldn't explain that one... But the other two ended up getting sent to Pete who remedied a few items he found, and then tested them running his car with them. The key (IMO) if you make your own is to have someone else nearby where you can plug your box into his car and run it. If it runs, then you know it's nothing 'you did'. Since I disregarded PRIMARY RULES set out by Moby, I was in a quandary where elimination through substitution was the only option. After Pete ran my boxes, I KNEW they were good. With an HOUR of getting one back in the car, I had a good fix on what really WAS the problem (Intermittent Heat-Related Failure with my 81 CAS) and within another 45 minutes I'd definately confirmed it and taken steps to remedy it. Since finding the bad CAS (Rule #1 on Moby's Suggestions: Buy a car or donor with a RUNNING engine, so you know it works! Mine was a Takeout Junkyard Engine with components scrounged from two different sources) the car has been running fine. If you have a place to test the box, you can put it together for yourself with basic skills, but having some place to test your boxes outside just a Megastimulator is a good thing to have available. But I digress, Navi, are you sure it's not something in the box failing? (The Devil in me needs to feed a self-doubt in your soledering skills---LOL) For someone who hasn't done anything before...and this really sounds bizzare, but I'd recommend buying both an assembled unit and a kit. You CAN get the components for about $60-80, with the board if you are dilligent in searching. Go through the motions of assembling one, while you have a good, known unit that you install. The procedure of assembling the box really helped me understand what the circuitry does. I may have baked this component or that, but when Pete told me what he had found---I at least knew where the components were, and what they were doing and could translate that to the problems I was having. I may not have been able to diagnose it myself, but when it was explained to me, the explanation made sense!

When I did 'The Megasquirt Dance' in the back yard, my wife simply said "How long till I can drive it to work?" You should count your blessing there is a disconnect on your wife---you can take your time instead of getting 'when is that thing going to be ready for me to drive?' You met her, you can realize if I drop off the "Trail of the Z" I will hear about it! And how! LOL Good News on the first 'smoke test'---I guess it passed, no extingusihers were expended, a good thing!

I am a firm believer in appliance-derived floorboards! Washing Machines make good floorboards for 510s! LOL

If you are seeing a jumping TPS, then it may be picking up some flyback form the igniton wires triggering the accel circuit. My TPS is run using shielded wire. You may have a loose connection giving an intermittent connection doing similar symptoms. Now I'll look at the datalog and see if I made a fool of myself... I can see a correlation of a 1% change of Throttle Position Affecting a 5% accel or decel enrichment situation. It may be that your trigger parameters for getting those enrichments are simply too senstive. There is a parameter you can set to totally disable enrichments on accel---I tuned mine without enrichments enables by changing those parameters, then renabled them after tuning was done and trimmed for 'quick' throttle response. If those parameters are set to sensitive, even noise form a normal dirty TPS pot will cause them to trigger-which looks like is what is happening in your case. That TP line can't move a BIT without triggering the Accel or Decel parameters. I'd null them out a bit and retry. My Accel doesn't come on unless I really mash the throttle with some authority. Not necessarily to the floor, but stabbing it quickly will enrichen the mix, where a roll-on (like to pass when there is plenty of room) will not trigger it. Then it stays on for the decay time set---several igniton cycles as I recall, can't remember what it is and the program isn't being found right now on this laptop,( I know it has to be in here somewhere) so I can't tell you where mine's set. i'm sure others will f eed back on this subject with their settings. Valves with clearance are going to noiser. Noisy valves are loose valves. Loose valves are happy valves as they have residence time on the seat and can cool off. Quiet valves are tight valves, and tight valves are hot valves....

"Not sure why people are mounting surge tank systems outside of the main fuel tank. " Bolt on simplicity. No cutting of the tank, mounts easily enough wherever you have space. Easily serviced if you suspect there is a problem. Possibility to make a FAR more efficient scavenging system than if it's in the tank. You can make a better more efficient surge tank externally than possible internally. If they could have made a 42" tall IMSA surge tank internally they would have. Some stuff just works better externally. One other thought, I have the ability to service my fuel pump standing up, over the fender of the vehicle in a vessel that I only have to drain out a couple of liters of fuel from at any given time---no tank draining of couipus gallons required. It also is easier to amke a proper 'in tank' adapter in an external surge tank, than reworking a tank to properly work with, say, a Z32 TT Pump. If you want to drop the tank and cut it apart, more power to ya, but just bolting on a smaller vessel that has better functionality does seem like an easier course in most cases. Besides, nobody can see my surge tank, I---like an idiot---mounted it on the factor holes for the EFI pump behind the axles on the outlet portion of the tank. It's hidden, on other conversions I mounted is for the "Car Show Experience"! LOL

I was just tooling around some JDM websites, and rest assured the DRIFT-BOYS know about using surge tanks on their cars now! I found several very nice (and Expensive) JDM ready made surge tanks that were designed to house various OEM In-Tank pumps, in various capacities. My favorite was a smaller unit of 650CC capacity (when the pump is installed) that is fed off the main tank. That is a nice idea... Anyway, Photos of which setup? The IMSA car... I may actually have them, I just converted about 9,000 exposures from my early Sony Digital Camera---and ran across some photos of the #75 Car with the rear coverings off. The Low-Pressure Application of the EFI Pump was THE way it was done in Japan in the 80's. My $100 (12,000 yen) FPR was set up specifically to take EFI pressures and drop them to Carburetted range, along with the boost-pressure port to keep it 1:1 setpoint above boost. I ran my car for 17 years on a pump that I took out of a junkyard and that was probably 10 years old then. Actually the pump is STILL functional. I think in carburetted blow-through applications the stock EFI pump will probably last longer than most would want it to... LOL The pump most definately was not hot during operation. For a while I was actually running the return into the feed line, and then bleeding off some more to the tank through the dinky 240 Fuel Return Line (what, 4mm? It's small!) and the pump didn't get hot then, either. I KNOW you can't do that on an EFI system as the pump gets hot QUICKLY with recirculation scenarios. There are many Fuel Pressure Regulators (they are all bypass style) that return the fuel to the tank, and have a regulation setpoint between 1 and 10psi. With a spring change I can convert my old Carb unit from 3.5psi pressure to 3Bar! Clever those Japanese. And that FPR is the same age---I see they are STILL selling the same regulator to this day! I don't think 'overspeeding' the pump is an issue operating it at lower pressures---the speed of a DC Motor is pretty much set via voltage---the MSD Boost-A-Pump jumps voltage to get the pump operating at a much higher speed to supply more flow with THAT I could see wear being an issue as you are increasing flow AND pressure. With the setup these Bosch Pumps have (and judging by the pitch of the motor) it really doesn't sound like it speeds up much at all...I think it just doesn't 'slow down as much' as when the fuel pressure loading is on it. I suspect Bosch gives those derated pressure curves because they design for free-flow delivery/speed and then just live with the amperage/flow loss at pressure. They are designed for the flow/pressure curve versus amperage. It's when you add more pressure, speed, AND flow requirements that I would say wear will happen because then you are edceeding the original design. By operating it the way I did, it was on a 'derated curve' ---well within design limits. Remember if the flow is there to be used, flow will raise amperage just as much as a pressure demand will!

Yes, that is the difference and why I refer to the 'characteristic curve', the pressure really doens't 'rise' much, but the 'shape of the egg' really gets altered, as does the relative position on the O-Scope relative to the X-Axis Baseline. An N/A Pressure Curve (Trace) has most of the bottom below the axis while 'intaking', and a pronounced 'indent' under power. A Highly Turbocharged Curve (Trace) is above the X-Axis due to the presence of pressure in the cylinder from the intake---it may barely touch the X-Axis during overlap/scavenging, but usually it will be above it, and the power stroke portion of the trace will be much less "indented" comparatively to an N/A Trace. Yes, preigniton is compression ignition, but chances are it's inaudible and you will never notice it. The key is that it happens before you are igniting the mixture via the spark---(hence 'preignition'). Detonation happens after normal combustion has started, and is usually the result of secondary ignition sources working on terribly lean mixtures which burn WAAAAY faster than they should, and result in a real high pressure peak. You can see these on the scope as 'spikes' in the 'indented portion of the egg'. I am looking over some stuff now regarding the new computer modeling and pressure tracing software that is out there, and the traces are WAY different than the equipment I used even 15-20 years ago! They aren't 'round CRT O-Scope Traces' anymore! LOL Anyway, this is also a good site that discusses Detonation and Preignition as well: http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html You can hear detonation happening, preignition--especially in stationary engines---is referred to many times as a 'silent killer'---you see the aftermath, and just scratch your head 'because we never heard anything'. Here is a link to a paper that has some graphical traces of cylinder pressures, it's not the same thing you see on an O-Scope, but you can see the differences in curves somewhat---sorry it's a boring DD 60-Series, but it's a good engine... Page three has some nice graphs relating directly to different spark timing scenarios, and you can see what I was trying to explain above much easier. http://me.engin.umich.edu/autolab/Publications/Adobe/P2004_05.PDF

That honking Taurus fan pulls 30A+ when it kicks on! JeffP was having similar problems relating to ECU power at idle because of all the electrical gadgets he has on his car as well, and he went to an external regulated alternator (some reworked GM unit from a late model car) that the company waranteed would give 90A delivery AT IDLE. This requires sufficient windings to cut magnetic fields--I think it was something like an 8" Stator housing---it's a big honker. It's not a matter of spinning it at a faster rpm, because that comes back to bite you when revving the engine up---what you want to look for is something like the Police Package Alternator---it's rated at something ridiculous like 140 or 200 Amps, but the key is what the thing puts out at idle speed---if you can get that information, I'm betting you are marginal for the actual load you have on the car when your accessories are running. Jeff monitored his and he was something like 50amps WITHOUT his fan running!!! (Electric Water Pump) The better alternator reworking places can give you this kind of information. You may want to PM or E-Mail JeffP as he's done a lot of work in this area recently (making the alternator work at idle and live with a 7500 rpm redline). It may be on his webpage---don't know, haven't looked there in a while.

That is very similar to what guys run on the dry lakes and Bonneville for "Altered" classes. Miles, do you have a functional splash pan from the radiator support to the K-Member? With the effort you are expending, you may want to seriously consider segregating the airflow for your triples now that you have 'hood flex' under control. That 3" pipe should allow for plenty of cool air into the carbs, but they will make better use of it by sealing a flexible box against the hood, the inner fender well, and keeping all that cool air right at the mouths of the carbs. That box you made is probably similar to what will happen with my 'Shark Car' when it gets reworked. The Aero Testing confirmed what I thought, it's good to see people making use of the results in a concrete way! Your spoiler ducts go directly to your brakes, right? I can't remember looking under there at MSA...

July 17th there was a Dovebid Auction wher a guy in Ceres had a whole slew of LD28 and LD28T's up for bid! I was travelling, and could not pre-submit bids so missed out. I wanted to bid on one LD28T, and a pair of the LD20's he had. The LD28's were apparently forklift or marine duty with REAR SUMPS so they would be a literal drop in for a Z-Car! The LD20's were going to be for my son's 510 Wagon, and my 69 Coupe. Imagine a late ZX gearbox, with a 260Z R180 in a 69 510 Two-Door Coupe, cackling down the roadway...something like 2300rpms at 50mph, and in any case passing just about everybody by 3200rpms. I think that would have been one sweet setup. The LD20 was 54 HP, more than enough for a 510...and not much less than the Non-US models had with L13 and L14 petrol engines! Imagine the economy there!

Cygnus you S.O.B.! Why didn't you say that last June! I have to agree that wiring is usually the biggest bugaboo that causes heartache on the systems! We are running a 'much more expensive' ECU on our Bonneville Car, and have had a niggling problem that we KNOW is electrically related. Last month, before the ElMirage Meet, we did just as Cygnus suggested, and ran a ground and power rail. I found them at Orvac Electronics in Fullerton and they were $15 each, and another $6 for a nice red and black plastic cover to keep anything from dropping on them. I WISH I had known these were available so readily and nearby my house, I would have utilized them on my setup for sure. They are a marine product (for boats) and let you connect everything to a common bus where you know you have easy access to them for troubleshooting and inspection. I don't have them on the MS system, but I do have two more conversions in the making, and I'm thinking this is the way I will go. For the hassle of the DIY aspect of the circuit board, I might suggest getting one preassembled---it takes the guesswork out of it should you be questioning your technique or the box. For the cost over kit prices (what now, about $250 off E-Bay?) that works out to be about $50 an hour in my case (took me 5 hours for assembly)--given that I eventually had some cold solder joints found later on, that may have contributed to issues I was having...the preassembly may be a good idea. I will say this about the tuning: Once you see the tuning, and get out on the road you can 'shift arrow up' and 'shift arrow down' while driving at steady state and realize just how the lean-rich adjustment affects how the car drives, you will have the low speed portion of the map done before you know it! May be richer than ideal (they usually are when doing it seat-of-the-pants) but it's not a big deal. What I found was that the interface on the $400 MS is very similar to units costing...er...a LOT more, and I find myself cursing the expensive unit for not having features that ARE found on the MS! I've toyed with several Standalones now, and really, once you have a grasp of how one works, you will quickly pick up how the otehr systems work. If you go into it with the following set of questions, and you can answer them for each component in the system, you will find it goes much easier: 1) What is it? (Nomenclature, what is it called?) 2) What does it do? (Function, what does this component do, and how? Does it switch power, does it open and close, etc) 3) What controls it? (and How---is it an electrical signal, pneumatic, thermo-electric) 4) What does it control? (and How---varies a current, changes a pressure, etc) 5) Where is it? What does it look like? (Component Location/ID-not really a big thing in such a small system, but knowing where you have to look for something or where to find it may help when you have a 'helper' trying to diagnose what it's doing while your eyes are watching something else.) This is stolen from some Air Force Field Training---"Troubleshooting Through System Knowledge" before that point, the instructors were pretty haphazard about telling you how circuits functioned, or how equipment worked. They did a lot of rote memorization and parroting of technical manuals, but one instructor came out with this approach and it really helped me devour technical details about systems. If you can answer those 5 questions, you will start to realize how much many "Experts" really only have superficial knowledge of a specific system! This will go hand in hand with 'Five Whys'---the old Japanese Management Axiom of asking someone "Why" five times to any given answer. If they can't answer "Why" five times before changing a procedure, then maybe they haven't thought out the procedure or system that thoroughly. It makes you think far beyond a superficial problem-solving mode, and get past what may seem to be obvious reasons to underlying root causes that may affect more than one system in the vehicle (or whatever!) Good Luck, I digressed!

I'd say the Dual-Priced OBX Units are, as Gene Berg used to put it in his catalogs, "POTL" Pick-of-the-Litter. Gene Berg would buy large lots of components from vendors, then go through and inspect each one with his staff, using gauges and etc. When the lot was 'picked over' and those items that met his standard were culled for his stock and customers, he would sell off the lot to another place---usually a competitor like SCS or any of the other VW Houses present in SoCal/Orange County. Some times, there would be two grades he would cull, POTL and Servicable. The POTL stuff was sold at a slightly higher price, and the Servicable would be his normal stock. Stuff that didn't meet those two grades was still sold off to competition. Funny that SCS is out of business now going on 17 years or so...and Gene Berg is still there on Lime Street in Orange...several years no after his passing. Quality counts. I'd suspect the OBX guy may be doing a 'check' or maybe replacing some components for the stuff. Then again, being e-bay I also wouldn't discount the fact that they are simply listing the same item at different pricing levels to see what fish they can drag in. Ever see a refrigerator on the side of the road with 'free' on it? Sits there for months till Code Enforcement cites the owner. That same refrigerator put out a week later with $50 on the sign and a rope tied loosely to a tree nearby will have two outcomes: Someone BUYS it, or someone STEALS it. Make something 'too cheap' and people will suspect it of being somehow defective, up the price, and then they buy...to complain how cheaply it was made later...but hey "for the price"! LOL

What you have is a balancing act of getting the fuel to actually keep expanding as it burns sliiiightly faster than the rate at which the piston is advancing down the bore and giving it room to expand. This is why racing fuels have different formulations---different engines have different mean piston speeds and dictate a different burn rate to keep the pressures up. This is why I'm not a proponent of AvGas, it is formulated to burn in large diameter cylinders with very low piston speeds. VP makes several different formulations for 'import' engines now realizing that the 105 for a Chevy V8 really won't produce the same peak power in an Import with pistons outrunning the flame front! Indeed, with a Keniscope you can actually see these phenomenon happening, and it is neat to watch. Want to watch something boring, watch the trace on a Diesel...Same every time... But gasoline and gasseous fueled engines? They are all over the place! LOL

(EFI pump as booster reply is at bottom) I'm going to chime in on complex methods for preventing aeration: There is only one thing that will work: Height. Period. The IMSA #75 Twin Turbo 300ZX car had probably one of the most complex and sophisticated fueling systems in any Nissan Vehicle. It had six pre-pumps sucking from the fuel cel to TWO surge tanks, which then had two main pumps feeding the engine. This could support 1100HP, but during races and due to IMSA Rules imposing 26mm inlet rescrictor orifices on the turbos, it 'only' made 750HP. The fuel cel pumps did suck air and send it on to the surge tanks---they had pickups and several points in the fuel cel and during low fuel conditions and hard cornering, it was inevitable that some of the booster pumps would pump air. The answer they came up with, with millions of dollars of engineering experts and factory technical support was: Make a Taller Surge Tank. The surge tanks in this vehicle went from the bottom skid plate to literally the roof structure. They were close to 42" tall. The booster pumps fed at roughly 36" in from the bottom, through a deswirl tangential entry sort of arrangement. Fuel return was taken off similarly at the top. Fuel to the main pumps was taken down low right on the bottom of the tanks. I think the chance of 'sucking air' with an open return line is extremely remote---on a racing vehicle pulling 2-3G's and having fueling requirements for top tier motorsports maybe more thought needs to go into it...but at our level, I'm strongly inclined to think we may be overthinking the issue a tad. Like I said, I fed mine for years using the stock 240Z "ticker pump" a Bendix License pump that wouldn't supply the engine with enough fuel in Normally Aspirated form, much less making 350HP to the rear wheels! Sucking from that tank, was a stock Bosch EFI pump, which normally is out of poop by the time you try 250HP...but since I was running Carburetted Blow-Through the lower pressure of the system even at full boost only required 27psi of fuel pressure, and the stock Bosch EFI pump supplied that handily. Matter of fact, due to my jetting I was way rich---that system really overfed me for what I required. Never ever ran lean... When that pump is operating at lower pressures, their flow capability is phenomenal... if you ahve 3psi in your surge tank, you really probably have too large a booster...really! The big thing about the surge tank is to really provide a reservoir for when the unbaffled tank has a pickup uncovered. If you were straight EFI pumping---you loose fuel pressure and the engine burps. If you have a surge tank, or even a swirl pot utilizing the return fuel to augment a 'bulge in the line' when you suck air from the tank it wil ONLY ever make it as far as your surge tank---the bubbles will IMMEDIATELY rise to the top and be carried out with the return line and overflow fuel. If you run a hobbs pressure switch---or even watch a gauge of the pressure level of your surge tank, you will see it is 'dropping' boost pressure regularly if you are running a 240 tank, unbaffled, below 1/4 tank and turning corners at ANY kind of speed. But main fuel pressure will remain unaffected, as when that boost pump regains prime and starts pumping---even though your main pump is sucking down fuel, you still have return fuel coming in to keep the main primed. On the issue of the EFI pump feeding the booster---that will work like you wouldn't believe---as long as you have an EFI tank, running the stock EFI pump will flow like crazy at 1-3psi, and more than adequately fill any surge tank for a larger pump. As long as you have the return line running into the surge tank as well, it should work superbly. Having a surge tank(s) is good insurance when running high-hp EFI setups simply from the fact you won't get that burp---which can cost you pistons! Where'd you dyno the car on Okinawa? Goya?

That may well be, but target AFR's a wideband to the ECU would be the way to do that I suppose. Or Innovate's simulated switched output with your target set to 15, and tuned to 16's... I know that you can really knock down emissions running at those parameters, though NOx goes through the roof due to temperatures in the combustion chamber. A little tweaking on the EGR through a GPO on the ECU, and you could tame combustion chamber temperatures and lean it out some bit further. Use the EGR coolers present on some diesels nowadays, and I suspect the EGR influence on lean-running would be even more positive. But since EGR is an 'emissions component' most people tend to simply remove it without giving much thought to what it actually does: Cool the combustion chamber. Ford was famous for really laying EGR to engines to keep detonation under control with super-lean mixes in early carburetted emissions control scenarios. For someone shooting for mileage, it actuall lets you lean out slightly more, and run similar advance... Now we are crossing from the merely strange into the downright wierd: EGR as a performance enhancing device on a fuel mileage motor! LOL

The best kill switch I ever saw was sold in the early 90's by a company called "Counterpoint" out of Sand Diego. They had a latching relay that interrupted whatever you liked: Fuel Pump, Ignition Power, Starter Enable...they recommended using two relays one for fuel one for cranking that way someone didn't kill your battery in the cold. Anyway, the thing was a VERY compact box, and had some very simple counters on the circuitboard---but the KILLER part of the whole system was the actual switch: It was a touch-style membrane switch. You could stick it under uphoulstery, slip it in between the vinyl on the upper portion of your door skins on the S30, wherever! It had several features for safetey, like if the button was pressed when the key was on and engine running it would shut off the car after 45 seconds---this was a 'carjack escape' feature---you got out of the car, pressing the spot and the guy jumped in and took off...only to have the car die: away from you, and usually this would result in him bailing and running. If you forgot the switch, it would passively arm 30-45 seconds after the car was shut off automatically. No matter what, when you got in you had to touch that switch or the car just would not go! It took pinpoint pressure to actuate the switch, and you got an audible signal that it activated. Just pushing with the palm of your hand would not to it, neither would the edge of your hand. I installed one on my wife's Corvair, and it coufounded her when I said "you need a special touch with her..." and I squeezed the dashpad then turned the key and it started! "What did you do to my car?" LOL Anyway, I haven't been able to find them since---I think they went out of business. I have ONE kit left, and have often thought about having the potting compound taken out of the box, and reverse engineering the device. It IMO was the best "Kill Switch" ever made. Plain sight is a good camoflage, but 'no special point whatsoever' is even better! I have used the Radio Rocker Switch using a latching relay for intitializing the kill function---after Counterpoint turned me on to latching relays that wont change state till energized, it changed the way I did the kill switch thing! Kind of like the Overdrive Switch in the Ford Trucks on the shift column...supplies the power momentarily for gating of a transistor to trigger the relay, or directly to the relay.

Come to think of it, Aircraft Spruce in Corona also offers a nice aircraft cable swaging service. I used them to make my Corvair Clutch Cable when it broke---they can make just about any kind of cabling you want and properly swage all sorts of ends on to it and offer the service Mail Order! If you get in a bind, that's always an option as well! For some reason when he said 'Terrycable' this just popped back into my head.

On another note, Graniger also sells 'Alternator Boxes' for compressors....if you take the pressure switching off the compressors themselves and put it remotely, with two compressors you can set up a 'lead-lag' setup. Basically, below say 125psi, both compressors run on their respective starters or contactors. At 125, one compressor shuts off, and the other 'the lead' will pump up to final pressure 135, 150, 175 whatever. At that point, when it shuts off after reaching pressure...the alternator box will switch the compressors 'lead-lag' relationship, so that when the pressure switch calls for it to load again, the other compressor kicks on the supply demand. If at any time the pressure drops below the lead cutout the second compressor will also kick back on, and maintain the pressure. This setup really increases the life of recips, and keeps them cooler overall. This is one good reason to have compressors rated at least 10% above line pressure requirements (say 100psi line, 110psi for storage, and 120-125 for lead cutout). There is a rule that you should only compress to the pressure you need, and nothing more---but this is for industrial rated units that can operate at 100% load all the time. The compressors being discussed here are not in that catagory. I'm talking a Quincy QRD style unit---that pump alone costs $5000! Some others come to mind, but when you get into that kind of money, the new lower-cost Atlas Copco GX screw units with integrated Oil Separator and Dryer start to make more sense. And now, finally after 20 years of people begging for them to do so, they FINALLY have a screw unit in the 2 to 7 HP range that is SINGLE PHASE. If you want a compressor that will run 100% of the time, supply clean, oil separated air, and be quieter than most refrigerators, take a look at the Atlas Copco GX units (even though they are a competitor to the company I currently work for!) they really are Cadillac Compressors. (Maybe Stripped down to Buick or Olds configuration, but still a fine quality unit!) I see right now one of these is on e-bay (15HP) selling for around $4K... Brochure here: http://www.benzcas.com/atlas-copco/pdfs/gx-2-22.pdf E-Bay Auction Here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Atlas-Copco-Model-GX5-150-FF-AIR-COMPRESSOR_W0QQitemZ180144707910QQihZ008QQcategoryZ106436QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Chances are good your local Atlas Copco Dealer will have one in stock close to that price...maybe maybe not... See what happens on the sale. If it was closer, I'd consider it... Nah, I'd get one as a 'take off' from a compressor retrofit. LOL