Tony D

I started my turbo and ran around for weeks just fine on 8x8 tables for a hot 383 Chevy V8...which is how the original Group Buy Chips were programmed...off Bowling or Grippo's SBC... Load a map manually from screen shots if nothing else. It's a starting point, nothing more. Quit rushing it, get it all working right on jack stands before you drive it or you WILL be sorry!

I woul NOT buy one! For what they want for an MSD BTM you are a big chunk of change towards a Megasquirt with programmable spark control and not a dumb. "One siz fits all" box. To get similar timing adjustment you need at least an MSD7... Anybody who says they have a "good running" stock L28ET, has never driven that same car with an aftermarket EMS on it! The drivability is night and day. In the late 70's we would retrofit Datsun EFI to 140HP Corvairs..that was a late model harness going into a 10 year old car at the time. The drivability change was a matter of order improvement especially when cold. Would I do that same modification today? Absolutely not. I would do a MS, SDS, or other modern programmable EMS (or, to be totally honest, "keeping my GM car all GM" I would adapt a current generation OBD2 at least GM EMS system to the car and useTunercat Studio to tweak the maps drivability right out of the box and the same programming flexibility to tune.) What the ECCS was in 1980 is not relevant today. Yeah you can do it, but you are severely limited as to what you can do, and frankly the drivability suffers from the control technology of the day. The same engine with modern EMS just simply DRIVES better! As to degree of retard for 12psi...I ran 24 degrees there, over 2500 but more lower and 18 where I got ping indications. That was WITHOUT intercooler but WITH adjustable fueling appropriate to the boost level, my AFR's dropping from 12's to almost 14:1 past 4,500 rpms. You won't do that with an ECCS and BTM... Can't. And. The power is noticeable, as is the response to throttle inputs.

Box only has 2.5 degrees per psi? That should suffice for some.

Check JeffP's post--the Mercedes 280 Diesel uses almost an identically sized bellows (goes over your pipe, that us the flow smoothing inner liner to the bellows) and clamps. The Nissan Stuff us NLA. I have some SS Slip Fit parts that were custom made, they don't leak... It was prototyped before Jeff found the Mercedes part worked.

Oh you mean an MSD BTM "Boost Timing Master" 70's technology, retard per psi linear rate retard. Megasquirt does that in a 3D mapping I think of MSD for their multiple spark marketing. I forget they sell that BTM, I shouldn't, I used it in the early years. I got a setup assembled in 1978 ...it uses an MSD6 and Zbtm. State of the art, 1975!

Fix the valve don't just plug it.

MSD is a stopgap. The COP systems give you spark duration that an MSD box dreams about... Not that you need it, a single fast-charging coil like from a Z31 or most any Nissan single coil application from the 84-on timeframe will work fine up to around 7,000 rpms which is your limit with cast pistons anyway. Go over that, crank triggered timing is your best longevity item you can add to your engine...

I have run 10-17-21 psi on my 77 N42 for close to 85,000 miles since doing he turbo conversion in 1985. Throw away the unknown ECU, get an Adjustable Aftermarket unit like Megasquirt or SDS. Depending on the type of 'distributor' it may be your CAS Trigger, or something to ditch. 10psi is child's play, and if you set up proper intercooler and fueling 17 & 21 psi and their accordant HP levels are easily manageable. A stock turbo (euro) with the .82AR hot side, or even the stock setup should easily get you a nice round 200-215hp at that level.

Bastards!

The device to the LEFT in your first photo is the culprit. That is the AAR auxiliary air regulator, inside the round section is a disc with a shutter in it that opens when cold. If it gets gunned up it sticks, and does what you are seeing. As you see the hoses are all common, blocking the source upstream to the TB stops the airflow around he plate directly to the manifold. I believe he device in the #4 runner is the VCV - vacuum control valve, "factory blow off valve" or " bypass valve"... It doesn't open till 1 psi or so... Should b closed at idle (then again so shoud the AAR!) Cap the 15mm line to the AAR, and that shokd stop it till you can clean or replace he AAR.

Hint: eBay "Atlas 109 Lathe" Once you get one...you find all sorts of uses for it!

Depends on what you want to do with it. To get a smooth signal instead of he strong spiky pulse inherent in individual runner manifolds you can add a restrictor jet, or a small- engine fuel filter in-line between the tap in the runner and the MAP sensor. Look what the Megasquirt guys did, generally cheap and effective.

I would say 60 is too rough, a good flapper wheel with 120 or even 240 will take 0.5 mm off and leave a reasonably smooth surface...if it's to your liking then you can get the felt buff and make them mirror-chrome finish later. If you have a spare set, you can take those then, "too far" in stages till you see a diminishing return and decide what to do with the ones you have. and what final size you want based on the testing of the set prior.

I saw you crossing the Vincent Thomas Bridge in San Pedro...

On more than one occasion I've put multiple-thousand mile trips on mine! 18,000 miles in around two-weeks driving time in one instance...car was running two drivers at 80+ mph towing a trailer and only stopping for maybe 20 minutes for tank attendance (fill the car, drain ours!) A low-residue jerky diet made it work! That car was only shut off maybe 20 minutes total in every 3 hours, otherwise it was towing that trailer, with three people inside, at 80mph between fillups. It was LeMans, just from Tawas Michigan to Riverside CA!

If you want to go out and jerk off, set an unrealistically low "budget". You want a record-setting Land Speed Racing in a Z, $20,000 IS a budget effort...it is NOT "Big Bucks" by any stretch of he imagination, that's for the car alone. Not the trailer, crew support vehicle, hotel bills (Motorhome optional) gas to and from the events....yadda yadda yadda... You realise I'm crew on a Record-Holding Land Speed 2+2, right? Don't take my word for it, ask Burton Brown what he's got into his coupe holding he record in GT. If you are going to open track paved mile events....they are covered in the first sentence. Maxton, a real LSR Event is definitely NOT "Low Speed"! Keep it below 150, it stays relatively cheap. Go over 150...despite everybody owing 160mph "stock" S30's...it gets costlier. Streeter, they make nice streeters! Nothing in back of the seat back is the same except driveline bits and tail lights (and not the surrounds!)

I knew someone who hoarded the 32 and 34mm venturis everybody took out.... He turned them in a lathe to the sizes he needed. Even at a machine shop, it's likely cheaper to do that than buy another set every dyno pull! I suggested 0.5 mm increments because if you go to far, you can't go back! With a dyno pull to quantify EXACTLY the rpm shift versus diameter change trend will appear early on and you can estimate what you will need after one or two pulls to give the rpm range you want. Sizing up,can be done with a flapper wheel and a drill press using a calliper. It's not rocket science!

With your attitude of exclusion, you aren't going to learn much. Good luck with that!

I said someplace "if I wanted to pay $15,000 for a Z with a V8 in it, I'd go buy a Vette, you get a lotta Vette for $15 Large!" Just turned up a white with saddle tan 72 Corvette, 454 Big Block, Four Speed LSD... The ONLY difference between this one and the one I stupidly passed on in 90 for $4,500 was that one was a Roadster, and this one has T-Tops... I wouldn't pass it again! Big Block Vettes are a hoot!

Do they make them in 1mm increments??? Get another set of 36's and chuck them in a lathe, take them up 0.5mm at a time and chart your progress...stop when you think you have what you like....or you will be cutting he set you currently have or he size you just turned upsize 0,5mm...

If a 1.5 hour drive is stopping you from looking, I'm sure the $20,000 to make it a Land Speed Car might cause you some pause as well...

Cleaning the carbs and needle seat assembly. "Rebuilding" is an overused misapplied tube. New gaskets don't do much if stuff is plugged with sludge. Be very meticulous in your cleaning and inspection of diaphragms. Good luck finding a good overhaul kit.

zo, who did you find to take over the manwhoring route, John?

Bummer on the location restriction, East Coast means higher prices and more rust...

Are you missing one entirely? It's not a reach with yokes to go to any 4X4 driveshaft shop and have them put new joints and tube in for around $150 with a decent balance. Better than any second hand unit with high miles on it. IEDLS (Inland Empire Driveline Service) made one handily on order and shipped it for $350 back in the day (Aluminum)---that was for a 1976 2+2 and was balanced for 10,000 rpms. To this date we have not had any issues with balance to over 11,000+ rpms driveshaft speed. May be more than you want to spend, but I'm really happy with it, and the price for steel is likely cheaper than my aluminum one---and that was for all new parts, nothing re-used (and with rebuildable U-Joint Trunnions!!!)