jakeoster

Yea the Nickel and diming adds up. Price you have to pay I guess for an attractive engine bay =p

Better idea to put what you got on eBay or something and buying what you need. A lot of companies are making fuel rails now so they arnt too expensive.

Yeah Ray, the stock turbo ain't too shabby. I would be sticking with it right now if mine wasn't blown and my several attempts at sourcing a stock turbo didn't fail, I'm done with that. I've done quite a bit of poking around and a high flowed one etc for the money doesn't really fit my goals, even considered an hks gtrs kit (for a second haha). After the advice you guys provided (thanks again, I'm glad I asked). I'm going to baby it with the blown turbo and save a little longer. And end up with Precisions equivelant to the T04S with a .63 hot side, 46mm Tial gate, mid range manifold with better quality, and the "Isis" plenum. Ohh yea haha, call me a ricer but I want to move foward from my hodge podge looking engine bay with the plumbing all over and what not. I would be lying if I said I didn't want a top mounted snail with the side plenum cleaning things up a bit Great info, I had misinformed myself about a/r sizes and a couple other things you guys cleared up. Thanks again.

Good info Tony and Ray, two more examples of why this forum is head and shoulders above everything else out there. I'm not looking for a small lighting quick high psi turbo as this is going to be a street car mostly. I'm looking to keep the boost pressure down with a larger higher flowing turbo to limit the strain on all my components over the long term and to negate the need for a metal headgasket and resurfacing. I'm looking for some delay in the lower rpms so I'm not in the boost burning fuel and making a lot of noise when unnecessary or while making a quiet pass by a cop haha.

Thanks for the advice; glad to hear precision makes legit stuff. However since this is a smallish turbo wouldn't higher boost not warrant the need for a larger wastegate? In my mind, since higher boost is being run through the turbo, the gate would need to be opened less and less pressure released. I could be way off but I just wanted to clarify. The reason why I'm curious is because I can get a deal with that particular turbo and wastegate together. Thanks.

Alrite guys, as much as I'd like a gt35 on a beautiful full race manifold, I want to be driving my Z sooner rather than much later. I have come across a setup that is affordable and with as little of compromise as my budget will allow. I wanted your thoughts on it before I started making purchases. Keep in mind I don't have thousands to spend so I am making some compromises where I can. The turbo is a Precision 5431, journal bearing and I was considering going .82a/r as I want more top end. It's externally gated with a T3 flange. Precision a reliable unit? The wastegate is a Tial 38mm unit. The manifold is an eBay top mount with a T3 flange and 38mm wastegate flange. Would the cutting of the wastegate downpipe be trivial to clear the steering shaft? What bracing should I do to make it a little more sturdy? Would heat wrapping it be a good idea? Finally; an "Isis" greddy knock off plenum as I've heard they are the "best" knock off available. My future goals are about 400rwhp down the line. Thanks for your thoughts. I wanted to consult you guys before I make any moves as I have the funds available, am back at work after we opened again for the semester, and have paid off all my school fees and books.

These cars are finicky so unless you know what your doing and got some cash on hand to make the necessary repairs I would hold back. It looks like a nice car and I would imagine that if the problem was easy/affordable to fix the guy would have done it even though he doesnt specialize in Benz's.

Nice build; should be a fun ride!

Been a while but I have done a few minor things on the Z like making radiator brackets etc. Also picked up a brand new oem crank pulley to replace my seriously jacked up one I had before. Lucked out and got it for $100 shipped I've been pretty busy lately and am hoping to get back to the Z soon. There isn't a lot of big stuff left to do on it just a lot of little stuff.

Got it in. Still can't believe how lucky I got by finding it.

Mods please move this to the tool shed, even though its a good laugh. This guy is going from twin charging, to electomagnetic clutch engaged supercharging, to tomei crates, to rips estimates, to LS9 crate engines. Pointless thread. Onethirtyone, no one here has done a supercharged RB before. If your serious about it then contact the guy on youtube who has done it and go from there. Then you can come back and show us all up when you have a 1000bhp supercharged RB26 built by RIPS with fully forged Tomei internals.

I doubt seriously that you can feasibly slap a supercharger onto an RB25/26 thats going to make 100s of horsepower. There is a difference between a 2.6L i6 and a 5.0L+ v8. And yes if you "don't really do anything that gives you that much money" and you are even thinking about budgeting $50k+ on a project car you are young and dumb.

I believe an N/A RB25 will make ~200hp, probably a bit under. Now I'm no expert but I would say a conservative guess for a SC would be about 60hp gain. That puts you at somewhere around 260hp. The RB25DET makes around 250hp stock. With very standard mods and a small budget you can be up to about 300hp. You going to have to buy your charger, a stand alone ecu, a good tuner, all your parts to make it on/off or whatever, and fab out various things. All while making about as much hp as a stock RB25DET. That's the cost per hp ratio in action. I don't know what you do for a living but your whole plan seems kind of half baked like your just dreaming. I mean 30k on a tomei crate? 0.o We do get dreamers here and it doesn't impress us or anything. If you really do have that kind of budget, go talk to RIPS. They do one off stuff like this and for 30k they could probably build you what you want.

Well the one thing I noticed about a supercharged RB25 on YouTube, no turbo, is it is pretty loud. Since there's no turbos to quiet the exhaust down and coupled with a loud whine. You might want to take that into consideration if this is going to be a street vehicle as it would probably get the fuzz wondering =p *I am no expert* just my thoughts...as I think superchargers are awesome and arnt bias against them. You have to take into account the parasitic effect and since the RB doesn't make gobs and gobs of power in N/A trim like some V8s etc do that could be an issue. That's where the idea of twin charging comes in to kind of counter that. What seems to stop people from doing the SC on the RB engines is that the cost per hp ratio favors turbocharging. You seem to want a car that doesn't boost all the time and you only want power when needed...what you could do is use a little bigger of a turbo that favors a higher rpm power band and shift at lower rpms before you begin to build boost.

There has been ALOT of talk about this on the Internet. So far the only person I have ever seen that actually came through and twin charged an RB (and got it to run) is trying to sell his project as it was turning into a nightmare and a money pit he said. It was in a commodore I believe. It seems like a good idea and probably would work awesome if you have the time, money, and expertise to see it through. As boostedh23a1 said, focus on getting a running RB26 powered Z first 0.o

Lookin awesome crappy camera or not! Love build threads that come out of nowhere. How's it running with that big turbo you got?

Well it seems as though things have changed. I got a smoking deal on a brand new oem one. Only $100 shipped and it is brand new oem. Im happy, saved me 250 and some-odd dollars over the nexus damper from ross which is basically a stronger stock style one. I have also figured out a good solution for my turbo. Should have the Z running optimal in the near future.

Generally, people want the manual gearbox. From what I have noticed they can be hard to sell unless the price is significantly low.

It's a preventative part, not a go fast bit. My last attempt at buying a used oem part was a disaster and I was bearly able to get my money back. Now I just figure that most of the time if I buy used oem and it fails and I have to buy another then I might as well have bought a quality part in the first place.

Now this is my guess, someone else chime in if Im wrong... High pressure needs a good seal. I would imagine that if it doesnt match up all the way then you will most likely run into problems.

That would be a custom job. You'd need a custom bellhousing or some kind of custom adapter plate at least. As for the thread, I think it was just speculation not an actual build.

Haven't heard this come up before. Is it a rule in drag racing or something? Just curious, thanks.

RB26+280zx trans= clenching your straws Obviously if your going with an rb26 you want a fast powerful car. You don't mate a monster of an engine to an old tranny made for a less powerful car unless you want problems. If you are on a time constraint and are going to be relying on this car to get you to school you may want to think twice before doing this swap unless you have a lot of money saved up.

Go gt30 or a holset if your on a budget. Gt35 will give you more power on less boost which isn't a bad thing but spoolability does take a bit of a hit on the RB25.

Good choice, that red looks great.