jakeoster

Damn Phil, you made quick work of that RB30. You beat me haha.

Looking good! *NOT* hating or trying to cast bad juju or nuthin but I have read that a TT RB25 is more trouble than what it's worth. So it will be interesting to see how it turns out. Looking great though none the less.

Nearly there; it's showing the mods one must do to fit an RB25 head to an RB30 block. It ends with him stabbing it into the S14 chassis. =================== I wonder why the PO even bothered putting on the manifold and spending the money going with an external gate when the turbo isn't much bigger then the stock one.

Thanks for the info. Well shipping from Japan would probably be about $500. So I'd imagine that all said and done it'd be about $1300 per seat plus however much the bracket is. For reference the Kamerari seat is about $800 plus about $500 for shipping. Then the headrest is a $100 option.

I was searching the internet and came across this seat. There was no information available and I cannot make out the logos. However, I think one would compliment a vintage yet functional Z car interior while retaining the stock passenger seat. Yeah, I'm one of those guys that can never justify paying two times the cost just to have the seats match haha. I was just wondering for the future, still working on my RB build at the moment. Thanks.

Haven't tested mine yet but they do look good standing still haha

Sick man looking good. You gonna run that blow through turbo setup after all? Bet the fuel economy is gonna put a hurting on you though bro

Earls should have a buy one get one free for their fittings, that would alleviate some of the pain haha

Sweet, glad you were finally able to get it going! A friend of mine who owns a BMW always knocks my Z cause he thinks the BMW is superior in everyway. I showed him this thread of your build a while back and it blew his mind haha. He couldn't even fathom that such things were possible hahaha.

Thanks a lot. I was looking at the manual and must have skimmed over it as I wasn't expecting it to be in the timing belt section. For some reason I have trouble navigating through the digital version, I prefer good ol' paperback shop manuals.

Still plugging away on it. Got the shifter in (more annoying then you might think), center console back in, crank pulley ready to be swapped, brakes done and a few other things. Big things left are mounting radiator/intercooler, wiring, and bending new clutch hard line. Rain has hit San Diego at full force the past few days so that kept me from getting as much done as I wanted to. Thankfully it looks like its going to be clearing up for this next week I was thinking of running this muffler with a 3in inlet and outlet. Anyone know if its a good quality one? My HKS TI attracts too much negative attention from the fuzz haha so hopefully this one will be a more mature choice.

I just dropped gobs of money on a a manifold that wont suck. There sure is a surplus on after market RB gear, but like the L series you have to spend some bucks to do it right. The Chinese eBay stuff is no bueno. Looking good so far Phil.

I've done some searching around HBZ and the Internet but have not been able to locate the torque spec. on the crank pulley. I'm back on my project and that's one of the things that I need to figure out. Thanks in advance.

Great write-up, came out clean. I'm sure it will help others in the future

Checked it, it's a little diffferent but it should work out ok.

I felt the same way after my build was trashed by a negligent driver after driving it about as many times as you can count on one hand. It'll work out man, just take a little break from it for a while.

Ah well, worth a shot. I'll just have to go take a look for myself when I get a little time. I'll report what my findings.

Damn tough luck man. You just recently get her running?

Ok guys this is a kind of off the wall question; but can the clutch hard line running from the master to the slave cylinder flex line from a 75' 280z be swapped to a 72' 240z without issue? When doing my engine swap I stripped the line on my 240z and it is basically useless now so it needs to be replaced. However, my 280z line has not been stripped. I would go check it myself but my 280z is not very easy to get to at the moment and I was wondering if anyone could save me the trouble. Thanks in advance.

I was wondering the same thing when I switched out my throw out bearing a few months ago. If anyone comes up on it please post. Thanks.

Still a very cool build. Any damage from the accident?

Well, didn't take long haha. I looked at all three of those. The full race would have just made everything too complex for me with all that extra piping due to the twin gates, so I passed. The raw manifold I just didn't find that many people running it. I even looked at one called a "Neukin". It looked good but I ran into a thread where the owner or someone working there was really shaaaaady to deal with. Then the I looked at the Love Fab. Single wastegate, good reputation, and it just looks stunning. Really really hoping there won't be any fitment issues. They are made for LHD 240sx's with RB engines so I'm really hoping everything clears.

When you want it done right, you have to do it right the first time. Today I bit the bullet and put in an order for the right way. Built to order, beautiful, well engineered, bulletproof, and couldn't even find China on the map. First piece of the puzzle for my forced induction solution. Ill update when I receive it in the coming weeks.

Benjie that's a clean Z. Thanks for your praise. Well I wouldn't reccomend where I bought my engine from. Your best bet is to get it from someone off the forums. I think there are still people that are sourcing them here and won't try and shaft you. Anyway, I've been doing little stuff like putting the stub axes back on after greasing the joints etc. My Dads got the welder and he's been busy, so I'm just waiting on that. I have made my decision as to where I'm going to go. As you guys may have read my stock turbo is wasted and it needs a fix. I've gone through every solution in the book and after racking my brain on it, I've settled on a no compromise turbo setup. My interim solution is to baby the turbo until I can get everything else I need to complete a no compromise setup. I have put down some money for a beautiful and well engineered piece that I don't think any RB-Zer has used thus far and it's place of origin is certainly not China. I'm excited about it but the part is built to order and won't arrive for a few weeks. Feel free to speculate haha, I'll update when it arrives. In the mean time I'm still chipping away at my build, really want to get it running soon but school and work as really been busting my chops lately.

GeeMan, all the info you need to do the swap is on this forum. You just need to decide if this is what you want (there's plenty of YouTube videos of rb25 performance). Also you must consider if you are able to finance the swap. 5th gen- The N1 water pump was designed for a street driven R34 N1 spec GTR. I would have to believe that Nissan would not include a pump that would overheat the car in normal use as this is a street car. In my opinion get what you want. Honestly, I think the negative is heresy that the Internet has talked up. Haha sorry, just figured it was time to put that out there.