Mudge

I can't give a great answer, but I'd say $100 or less depending on condition, but thats just my "shot in the dark".

Absolutely agreed, I'm starting to think about a turbo again............ Len, since your in the BA, any idea how much I could get a complete turbo drivetrain for? I'd be willing to live without the intercooler, but a T5 would be nice I think (I have the early 5 right now). Here is the page though: http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page24.html

From what I've seen (in larger cars though), a quality race-legal cage runs about 2k at the minimum. For a smaller car though, and surviving with less bars (how fast are you going to go?), I imagine less than that.

Actually, there are ways to get them to work for big power, in fact there is a local guy running high 9s on the stock PCM (with his own low impedance injector box, which he sells on the side) I also know of another guy who uses one on a blown car making about 750 HP.

I knew someone that claimed at a gas station, they gave some guy $5, and asked why they didn't have more success getting a job... the response was "I make more money doing this"... I dont believe every panhandler is rich and famous though, I'm sure that there are various "success stories" out there.

Although, if you have to fab your own mounts anyway, why not go with the higher CI LS1?QB] Lighter, cheaper, LS1 would be great but the $$$ is depressing. I am also much more familar with the LT1, but $600 rockers for the LS1? EEEEEEEEESH, I'd spend the extra dough for shaft mounted, but still, the hop up stuff is just way expensive, and I dont want to spend LS1 Edit kind of money either. A year down the road though, who knows...

Sure is tempting to do someday, but $/time goes elsewhere for now...

There is a physical difference, off the top of my head I want to say the strut ID is off by .04" or something like that, but can't recall for sure. Length may also be different but again not sure. 300ZX front strut inserts can be used also (front/rear), but strut tubes have to be shortened, also heard MR2 but dont know details.

T5 info just posted http://moderndriveline.tripod.com/moderndriveline/id14.html

As for cheap I dont disagree, and for kits instead of self fabrication, well for those wanting kits yes, easier in that regard. LT1/T56 combo can be had for $1500 if your lucky, $2000 is about the most I'd pay, but many yards want $2500-$3000, with LS1/T56 setups averaging $500-$1000 more than the LT1 setups, plus more expensive PCM editing, the O2 sim ordeal, all those little things add up! I recall reading someone who said that the LS1 mounts dropped right onto the Datsun Xmember, and at that moment I just thought, wow, lucky dog. But I'll probably go LT1 for the above reasons, if and when I get to do the swap, although the Ford 5.0 is still in the back of my head.

In some ways the LS1 swap almost sounds easier, and yes search, very recent topics

LS1/LT1 T56 isn't the same, sorry. As for just the trans, I haven't seen them, only trans/clutch setup, unless you buy from an individual, other yards out there may sell just the trans I dunno.

If you get the rates for those Tokicos post them I'm hoping they are straight rate, variable isn't too much my thing.

I've come across a couple sites of GPL (Grand Prix Legends) players that have built up scaled cockpit replicas of thier favorite past time racers, that they actually use and play online in recreations of seasons actually raced long ago.

Are you kidding? I've seen it for about $659! Jason Cromer: 1-877-726-8295 Sam Taylor Buick Cadilac in Florida Make sure to ask for Jason directly, if he's not there, just call back later.

I dunno, and I'm not an experienced engine builder, but there are internally balanced 422 LT1s that run just fine...

Interesting info, I know on stock LT1s they pickup good power versus shorties, no question.

Well, I've only got 195-60 R15, and its already stiff, so I can't help ya I know on the Camaro with 245 fronts and no PS its pretty bad, but thats about a 3400# car.

Drax is right, a stiffer spring will resist squat more. The STs sound a bit mild, but I would have to feel it to know for sure, not alot more rate than stock except the rear but I guess thats what they found to be best during testing

Theres also no friggin intercooler

I order from Jason alot, he is one of the most well known discount dealers, it should be $459, call him. I know someone that just got it about 2 months ago from him.

Using a rose bud tip on a cutting torch, and "bending" the head, which is detailed in the said book

You are going to be using Tunercat yes? If you dont tune it it will still run sub-optimally. I've only worked on one car with a hotcam and that did have a mail order tune on it (not speed density, it was a 95), and it ran pretty well once we got the timing chain on correctly (he had it installed one tooth off, barely ran). Tunercat + prom burner, and run whatever cam you want, if your not going to tune I'd go with a 210/220 or 211/219 or similar, and even then you would know you'd be giving up power everywhere because of lack of a proper tune. Bang for the buck I dont disagree that the HOTCAM kit beats all hands down, it cost me about twice as much to set up my valvetrain the way I wanted it.

Again, the pushrods are hardened stock, and will put up with mild springs just fine. As for full 7/16" or not, that is up to you, I was anal with my setup so I got ARP 7/16" and non SA Pro Mag rockers. Just look for 7.2" pushrods and your set, they are not 7.8" like SBC.

I would use other springs, but you can try to use them if you wish. With only .525 lift its not like you need alot of spring, but they weren't designed for the HOTCAM in the first place and are marginal, some people can use them, and a handfull cannot. I also know of someone who got a cam with a single flattened lobe, some of the Crane rockers have frozen tips within a few thousand miles, well thats just the quality of the parts in the kit. You will save $ with the kit, if you can afford to be picky as I was, then go with whatever parts suit your fancy. Why not buy a better cam though then? Are the heads not ported? Expect to pay $169 for the cam alone.