Mudge

www.gaspricewatch.com , I'm in 94080. As far as I can recall I payed $1.67 for 87 last I put some gas in the beater, and that is the cheapest place in my area. Premium is $1.87-$2.10 or so in my neck of the woods MTBE is also responsible for as much as 3% power loss, since its a crappy way to raise octane. Supposedly 76 stations dont use MTBE but ethanol, but they are more $ and I dont use premium anymore since I hardly drive the Camaro at all.

I'm pretty darn sure increased track in front would reduce understeer.

All I can offer is that the ATI is better after 7k RPM than others, which is worthless to most of us, so I'd avoid the ATI from what I know.

For the best rebuild you can get, if they are a good shop and your aiming for performance, they will patch the piston to a bore and bore it appropriately. Pistons aren't going to come exactly 4.030" for example in other words, so a good shop will "do it right" and measure individually, etc etc

Yep, unfortunately this is why Turbos took SO LONG to catch on, carbs are not friendly under boost generally.

I know what you mean, playing with a turbo would be FUN, I am guessing though that wanting to road race the car is going to require a nice intercooler $$$ So with that in mind, I will probably end up running NA for awhile, and eventually an NA V8, but have to see how it does on the track first, too much power is no bueno in RR, if its more than I can handle. Also, I live in CA, and gas here is crappy (91 octane MTBE), so I'm looking at streetable power overall. I can spend time engine tweaking, or racing, so I figure, lets be practical here...

Higher octane means less likely to ping, you can do the math to figure out what your required fuel octane would be. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html I like NA setups, easier to deal with, and often cheaper, but it depends what your going to do with the car. Tolulene was $11 a gallon last I got some.

I'd rather have the extra liter, more cubes = easier to get driveability and power.

There is a guy in CA doing a 12.5, but he has headers, CAI, and a 2800(?) stall in a lightened Camaro, so probably 3200#s or so.

I saw 245s on a 240Z in the front with no spacers or flares, but the car was not lowered or at least not much, it had 265s on the rear but had homemade flares due to laws in CA.

Pretty much, but a cage has to be padded, and I wouldn't want things glistening onto my windsheild from inside the car while racing.

Lahoo-saher

Its an automatic.

My vote for heater core, you may have as much as 2 weeks before it goes totally and lets coolant everywhere inside the car, IF that is what it is.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=3333

Crap, for only $1000? Wonder about a trans though, hmm. Whats the cubes, 4.5L or so? Power output stock? Once you get into modding it though, forget cam replacement $$$, reprogramming? hmm. Neat factor yes, but PITA and it would probably always remain close to stock, something more common easier to mod and get more power out of.

Where is World Parts Depot? Do they have a site? No luck in finding them.

No ECM "mods", just reprogrammed with Tunercat. Heads/cam/SLP shorties/K&N intake, basically just the 'basics', nothing fancy, it was a budget setup. http://docmudge.tripod.com/dynorun030902/index.html It was a daily driver, with stock 3.42 rear gears, so it was driveable yes, in a Z with 1200 less pounds, it would have been extremely driveable on the low end. I had to be conservative with low end timing due to the crappy gas in CA, otherwise it would have been a true low end beast, had it pulling very hard off idle but unfortunately found knock all too fast. I was in theory supposed to hit 20 more RWHP, peak was supposed to be ~6500 RPM about and I ended up flatlining after 5900.

Be carefull with that much nitrous, LT1s past 150 on a stock bottom? Hmm... I would hope however that your using some kind of retard box, MSD or new chip for the 93.

I considered 36# for my own setup, but 42#s I'm not so sure about. In high impedance form I hear complaints that idle is pig rich because 1ms is too much fuel for thier cars even at 1k RPM idle. I would go for some used 30# SVOs, they will more than take care of you, I made 411 RWHP with an ignition miss with my 30# and I got them for under $200, low miles.

I'd like 30#s, but even 24#s would be ok, but I like low duty cycle setups. 24# is good for "450 HP", and most ported heads/hotcam/headers cars hit 370 RWHP if the tuning is on. Dont put much effort into the intake, especially with the TINYCAM, raise the runner IF the heads require it, which depends on the port job, and open it up for the 58mm TB, then leave the rest alone.

Megasquirt looks good, that + an MSD timing box may be what I end up using. There is a program called VEmaster, but its for FBodies, so you can sort of calculate VE based on logs (if you have BLMs, or you can sort of guess with O2 readings, but narrow bands aren't good for that purpose), then VEmaster will modify your ECU/ECM/PCM image and you upload it and do more logging. The source code is available I believe, so someone could make use of it, although since we'd all have fairly different controllers and logging abilities, that doesn't make it the most usefull for everybodies purposes.

Thats what the subject says

I read on a site which lists rebuild tips, that some stock items in particular are $$$, pistons were one of them. I can list the site later if you wish.

Headers do resonate, yes. I remember reading an article on most headers' natural frequency, probably a David Vizard thing.