xtreme_240z

Ok so i know i have been meaning to post this but things have been busy, so now i got time. So these are the cables i got, Lokar 8ft u-cut cables First issue i had involved the longer end on the cable. It would interfere with the black alum bracket that attached on the caliper I took the end to the grinder then used my tig to fuse back the material so i still have a strong bond Afterward i when to figure out how to atched my cable. Keep in mind we built our z for show not race so i always have to make sure it eye pleasing. I tried first off to see if i could use a piece of angle and go off the caliper but i realized that there was no room in back of the 6 piston willwood we have. I found a piece of scrap stainless steel kicking around our shop. Once i found that it would work i then attached the angle so i could attached the cable side to this bracket. End result was this And here is it when it was attached to the caliper with the steel cable in it Once i had the caliper side done i when to figure out how to make the other end. Now from what i know i think we got one of the first set Dave had made. These required around 2 inches of travel. To compensate for this i removed the pivot located on the top of the drive shaft. I then secured the bracket were the 2 black casing cable went to the driver side near the drive shaft. After i inserted the black casing for the cables Its kinda blurry but its the best i got. The kit include a block that takes the 2 steel cables and mounts it into 1 pivot point. I attached this direct to the arm of the hand brake. Also using a bolt i had laying around as a spacer so this bracket would not be able to move Now all im missing is for Dave to send me 2 springs. Since im direct on the leaver in my shop test with a 2 ft bar on the wheels the caliper are locked solid on only 3 clicks on the leaver. Now from what we know dave has corrected the ratio it takes to lock them. Ours were only a single start thread, and i believe the new ones are a 2 or 3 start, witch you should be able to use factory cables and not have to do all of this.

do you have a pic of what the spring looks like?

Well what if you used a inline efi pump?

I had issue with fuel coming out the bowl after i turned the car off, maybe 5-10 min after. I also run and inline fuel pump and im regulated to about 3psi when the car is warm but im using a by pass regulator. Now to fix the problem im still getting i seen someone on here post to put a kill switch and turn off the fuel pump beafor you get to your desired location. i have not had any issue with fuel coming out of bowls since i put the switch.

Im assuming you have the all aluminium rear set up that dave has? cause the pictures il be putting up are based off the full aluminium race setup and the 6 piston caliper.

Ok so i just found a major flaw with my set up at least, and I think with all of them. There is no spring to pull back on the leaver arm. When the caliper is fully locked and i dose lock the wheels in my test with a 20 inch bar on the hub, when i relise the cable, it dosent have enough force to push back on the arm and the cable just bends. Il try to get a hold of dave to see what his fix for this is, but crappy part is those aren't going to be ready with weekend. Il still try to get the pictures up, and Im still uploading to photo bucket bit by bit.

Sorry have meant to update but i have yet to finish my own. Kinda got fed up with it and left it on the stands. The hardest part for me was the fab work to attach the cables. I do have multiple pics of the steps and i will be done for Wednesday il prob post some time after that,

So i got the z in the air on the jack stands, this mite prove to be a pain to install. Going to prob have to modify a few different parts, il have more pics come the end of sat. Atho sat night is a big party so it mite be sun morning. As i go im getting pictures so we can all learn from my mistakes

Not sure how it work in your state but here we dont have emision but we got safety. Now we know a few mechanic who will pass it but only having 1st gear as and e brake is a bit anoying. I can take pics as i got allong on the instal for anyone who will need to know a way to do it.

OK well when we were in Arizona in January he had around 100 sets of 2. So i dough he has gone through all tho. Now for the 2 inch. At first i had taken out the bracket that sits on top of the drive shaft and modified it. But each time id let off the gas hard or clutch in hard the drive shaft would hit it. So i bought a Lokar 8ft u cut it cable. And i have already removed that bracket and il mount it direct to the hand break leaver. Witch give from 2-2.5 of travel http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ec-80fu/overview/ Using this kit with and these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-ec-80wc/overview/ This should give me the correct combo. Now this is a fully custom set up. Not sure what its going to take to fit it. I know already that i need to drop my exhaust, drive shaft and a cross member in the back. These aren't a direct bolt on to the factory set up. Now unless Dave has got them changed from the 1 start thread witch we have to the the 2-4 start he originally wanted. only M1noel would be able to tell us that

I have the AZC parking brakes. We took ours and sanded the red coating off then buffed them to a shine. Im actually installing a new cable this weekend. They require around 2 inch of travel cause there was a manufacturing error( well ours are) The stock able will only give you around 7/8 travel I can get picture if needed to help with yours.

Im running the 280 zx thermostat housing with the 2 censor location. 1 for my gauge inside and the other set to ground on my relay. Worked great for over a year now. Although im not sure at what exact temp it turn the fans on. I think its about 3/4 of the temp gauge

We have one of the summit racing cells, cant remember if its a 15 or a 20 gallon. What we did was get welded a 1X2 inch angle and its drop mounted from the inside downward so the fuel lines still run outside. Now on the side note is were not doing any form of racing on street. If your looking to do a set up like this i can get you pictures of our set up.

Please don't quote me on this. But i do know of quite a few of my friends that don't run z tho, but they place batteries in the back and im pretty sure there only using 0 gauge. Our set up is in the front on a 240 im suing 4 gauge from the batt to the starter. Id give your local audio shop a call they would be able to tell you for sure.

We did allot of the work our self. but not our labor id say and easy 75k

Well guesse its time i post mine up.

Its got a decent lip on the wheel to. If all you had to do was only roll the rear you got the correct fitment possible without having to do that dump stretching tires thing most of my friends do on there cars.

Yeah i know we tend to have issue with our company vehicle. Our z on the other hand we only got out tires install although we were lucky they dident scratch the lip. We install all our own parts especially when they that expensive .

Thanks. Um ya its msa type 3 with what i remember being universal 3 inch flairs in the back and 2 inch universal in the front. about 400 hours worth of body shop work. its just the quality of work they do. The kit isent completely molded so basically i can remove each part individually. makes it easy to work on each winter i have it in pieces. i still have somewhere on my computer the pics of when it showed up to the body shop without the flairs. wheels were out a good 3 inch

I'm not sure if it works like you say. But maybe find out what the pedal ratio or the year of z your booster belongs to. Then see if changing your pedal to that ratio if it works better. We got rid of our booster for reason like this

For the pedal ratio I'm not sure what it is factory. Although on our 240 we eliminated the booster and went with a WillWood master only. The ratio we needed was I believe 7:1. We just took the pedal off and drilled a new hole around 1/2 inch above the original one witch gave us a good ratio and I don't have any issue with brakes locking up.

Thanks

This is our set up. Work Wheels VS-XX 18*8.5 front 0 offset no spacers 225/40/18 tires Work Wheels VS-XX 18*10.5 rear 0 offset no spacers 295/30/18 tires Front and rear are custom painted for body colour match

I have yet to have the back tires lock up. I'm not sure how restricted the back brakes are but there around the same size as the front, but I'm running a 295 wide tire in the back so this could possibly help on the fact it doesn't lock up. Also if i remember correct the master has a build in proportioning valve basicly, when we called WillWood to confirm the master that was what they were recommending for street use, with those callipers.

Same thing also wondering were you found this. By the looks of it could be home-made, only thing I fine it misses if the front for the glove box.