xtreme_240z

In our z we put the 4 core that zstore had at the time. it actually fit in front of the l28. But we weren't able to make the 2 fans pull cause of the room. so really any rad from the zstore would be a safe bet.

Kinda a bad shot. But got our new EFI Hardwear ITB in. So i had to do a mock up. Plenty more work to do tho.

Best picture i could find quickly. I possibly could have more. L28 at the time still with distributor, but all front wires were send under fender

Just did a slight bit of demo. Bring on the 5th or 6th winter tear down and more modification on the way

We bought that full kit about 2 years ago. Im curious did you have to machine down the black alum adapter from the hub to the disk? Cause i know we had to Dave mite have changed it. Also you can get the 6 piston in the rear also.

I know this is off topic. But were you list the electric fan. I found a solution for our 3.1 stroke, if you find a late model s30, 280 i believe. The factory thermostat has 2 holes for senors. 1 for the water temp gauge and another for the fan. Plus the electric fan relay to that and its been the best method for us no more probes in the rad. Also since were looking into possibly getting rid of our 3.1 and going for a rebello. for them to make you one fully built its and approx, 10k cost

Um im not 100% sure on the type but we did a t5 out of a Mustang and attached it to a l28 stroker. Its allot of work but its much stronger then the t5 from Nissan. Eric if you got question on something like this i should be able to help ya out.

What size did you pick for the main one and the 3 sides? Thinking of doing it on ours also

Id be more curious on how the back looks and if there would be any difficulty installing them

Um since i don't have a booster anymore not sure how helpful i can be. But would shortening the shaft that gose's to your pedal possibly pull your push rod back in? Also realy if its only a 4 mm spacer in inch its around 5/32 thick. So if you would take a nice piece of aluminium and shine it up it could look of, id say better then going and hacking up the rod

Tony just move up this end. We get for driving our Z a mid to end April to a if were lucky end of October. If you still have the heat hocked up in the car. Al tho it give plenty of winter project car time il say its never enough time to do it all. But i got no clue how in nice sunny environment you have how you could spend 1-4 years to build a car and not have it. Our took 4 years to build, and il be running on winter 5 or 6 cant remember and we still are modifying it.

Looks like most of you guys when the plates were fab they were tiged in place. Although ours dident turn out like the poster ones. ours were just stick in place by a licensed welder tho. Then we ground them down. Haven't had any issue with them and its been over 5 years on the car.

Il lol on that. roll bar is only in there for looks. Its chrome platted and not atchated in 1 spot. Still need to secure it its only been 5 years :S

I see that the tach fits in nicely. What size gauge is it? Was it the 4 inch or bigger?

Ok so after the new bushing was instaled how long did it last? if were talking a few days its not the pilot bushing. if it was a few minunes on the stand it could be the problem

I noticed you said you just put a new pilot bushing in and afterward it did not work. Do you know what material that bushing is made of? We did a ford transmission swap witch needed a new pilot busing. When my father when to the machine shop to get it made he did not specify for the to use acinder bronze / oil light material. witch is a self lubrication busing. They made it out of brass. It worked fine on the jack stand for about a 5 min idle and a few revs until we put it on the road then it seized solid to the transmission shaft. Not sure if its that but worth a look. I hope i could have at least eliminated 1 thing.

Here's our set up Rear Apart back portion Apart mid portion

Not sure how this will turn out. But engine bay looks much better in person. I tried to remove all non essential wires as possible found thine on a friend took mite be a better angle

Not sure if the green bar in the picture is st. But i do know that we are running a ST suspension sway bar. If you contact Dave at AZC we will give you the St part number. When we bought ours it was around 200$. If your in cal your availability will prob be quicker then ours was and cheaper

One thing im not sure if anyone else has mentioned, but we seemed to have the same issue when we finished our 240. The pin that links the pedal to the push-rod was worn out. Only by about 1/16 but it made a enough of a difference to affect the travel in the pedal

Um we run a work vs-xx 18*10.5 in the back and 18 *8.5 in the front on 0 offset. Im not sure of exact price but i got in mind they were around 1000$ each. There custom bolt pattern and custom paint to match the car. Also one of the local builder got a set of strut wheels custom made in 24*15 so depending how much your looking to spend im sure someone can make your wheels

From what ive seen on other forums, the OS motor from what ive seen is 100k and you need to send them a l28 core

Yeah im pulling from back to front. but on one side im pulling on the top and the other side im pulling from the bottom. Since dave only have 1 right hand thread i had to do it that way

We have done the same as Mikelly said. We moulded the msa type 3 kit but using corvette flairs to get the rear with we needed to fit the tires. If you can mold in the kit, personally i fine it looks way better then just having the bolt holes