kiwi303

When i saw "Not Russian" in the title, I was thinking you had a Westinghouse Lend-Lease Mosin...

or just ask a gun nut to do it for you when he does his shells 40 reloads out of S&B .303 cartridges suits me I just anneal after every two reloads. There's not that much difference between annealing copper and annealing ammo brass.

visit Ebay, if it's like here in NZ on Trademe, you'll find a decent 14 to 20 breaker box for around $400... you have a 10 breaker there now, 2 for the main breaker and 8 for the in-use breakers. A bunch of breakers should be around $25 each, then you just pay the sparkys labour rates and ban smoko breaks while you're paying him

Since this is going so esterotic... could you clear up a point for me... know of using a Supercharger (mechanical engine driven displacement compressor) for low rev boost with a Turbocharger (exhaust gas powered turbine compressor) taking over for later higher rev power above and beyond that the supercharger can give. My question is, what layout is the most efficient? I have seen writeups of superchargers pulling air through effectively stalled larger turbochargers which later as the ehaust gas volumes increase, the cavity between the turbocharger and the supercharger is pressurised so the supercharger is compressing already compressed air into the engine. I have also see writeups where the supercharger pushes air through the stalled large turbocharger at lower revs, and at higher revs a clutch disengages the supercharger while a valve opens an alternate air intake into the turbocharger, removing the supercharger from the air feed chain.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=337751

You forgot option 3, move to a country that runs 220V as standard instead of 110V... Nice welder I get by with a clunky old arc box to tack things together on the farm, there's no way I'd use it for car jobs.

Right, had a look through the shell and there is no box in that location. Also the 280ZX Hynes manual makes no mention of it and all the boxes I can locate are accounted for in the diagrams. Mine may be a base model and the box only shows up on the higher end spec levels? I'll pop a question up on the zclub site

I have a JDM Fairlady shell, First registered in Japan in '78 (presumably as a '79 model), first registered in NZ as a used import in '87. That is according to the original NZ title. HGS130-003806 I'll have a look next time I'm down the back of the farm where I have it stashed in the hayshed. Sorry Heathhh, only the one shell so if it's there, Battledat has first dibs, but I'll ask on a NZ Z forum and see if the Kapiti packrat has any, plenty of JDM imports here in NZ.

Do you have the part code stenciled on it? I can have a look through my shell and see if it's still there. I hate those sort of nuisance nagging nanny gadgets so if there's one still bolted up I'd be happy to sell it.

Was a picture on the wall in a panelbeater/restorers shop when I was there once with a friend whose car was in for repairs after a smash. Didn't pay much attention but the note on the photo said S600 V12 in 924. I would suspect they had to totally remake the whole front and extend the forward radiator supports as well as set the firewall back. Never seen the actual car myself, next time I'm in town I'll try and remember to drop by with a camera and take a photo of their photo. I bet it would be as nose heavy as Jay Leno's tank engined hot rod!

If you read the article, notice he set the firewall back? But if a Mercedes V12 can be crammed into a 924, surely an RB can be shoehorned into a 944 You'd better be ready to do a lot of cutting and welding tho

There's a shop on Nelson, NZ, which has installed a Mercedes S600 V12 in a 924... Saw some photos on their Brag Board in the office once. Dunno what gearbox and diff was used, but given the 924/944/928 were transaxles with the gearbox/diff integrated into one with a Torque tube from the engine/clutch at the front to the gearbox at the rear, they must have used something. I don't see any real way to fit the same inline four design to a V12... More likely a MB gearbox and a suitable donor diff and axle.

on a side not not directly related to the bikes, when it comes to comprehensive coverage there are usually 3 options depending on relevant local laws and insurance markets: Replacement, Book Value, and Agreed Value. Simply put if it is totaled, under Replacement the insurance company is required to deliver to you a replacement car of similar make/model/condition as the written off vehicle, OR provide sufficient cash to purchase an equivalent vehicle, less deduction of course. if delivering a car (unusual unless dealing with a large car yard where the sales yard, finance company and insurance comapnies are all subsections of a larger holding company) they will usually bill you the excess. This requires proving what value the vehicle was at the time of loss, was it modified with lots of high value items, was it a rusty banger that was one inspction from being banned from the road by the traffic cops? All that makes for a fight with the insurance company at times as they don't want to pay top dollar if they can get away with lowballing. Totaled under Book Value, the assesor just determines if it was in poor, average or good condition before the totalling, and the insurance company just looks the car up in the book and hands over the cash minus the deduction. Simple and easy but you better have a stock car as modifying them won't change the payout. With both the above the value of the car, and hence the payout drops over the years as your car ages, however in my experience the insurance company doesn't drop the policy charges as the payout value declines! Their profit margain just gets bigger. Agreed value is by far the simplest. This is what I use, if the vehicle is written off the assessor just states it is totalled and the insurance company ponies up the agreed sum, less deductions... I bought my van for $8,000 in 2005, and insured it for an agreed value of 8,000 with an excess/deduction of $750... over the years the value of the van has dropped, equivalent models with far less miles on the clock are now selling for around $2,500. If it was totalled now I would receive $7,250, while my policy premium payments are within a few dollars a month of those of my peers who took out a replacement value policy which would now only pay out $2,500 less deduction/excess. Agreed Value has a lot of advantages in my opinion.

Hmm, wouldn't you be covered under your buddies house coverage as goods in his house at the time of the fire? The House&Contents coverage insurance company should give him a payout including book value of vehicles stored in the house in an attached garage and he passes on to you the book value of the bikes... That's how things would work here, through I would be surprised if US and NZ insurance is identical, it should be broadly similar.

True, with almost any modern car there is so much tied up with the body control computers and anti theft devices that the number of parts and electronics needing to be swapped in to get the ECU to run the engine without blinking "THIS AIN'T MY CAR, CALL THE COPS" codes and shutting the engine down, that a standalone ECU is really getting to be the only way to go for a modern engine swap.

As far as ECUs go, get a LinkECU off trademe, the RB20DET plug n play is pretty well recommended.

If you go Sony, the Minolta Maxxum AF lenses with the MA Minolta mount go right up to the Sony Alpha A mount since Sony simply bought out Minolta when they went under. Many of the early Sony lenses are just later Minolta lenses with Sony branding replacing the Minolta logos. There are LOTS of cheap Minolta lenses with the same quality as Canon or Nikon lenses available for much cheaper than the more famous brands. through there are also lots of Minolta lenses with less quality than Nikon or Canon too to be honest, you'd need to do a bit of research buying second hand glass, but the Minolta AF range of lenses is cheap and available and well capable of giving good shots. I'm watching ebay currently for a good cheap Sony A300/A350 DSLR refurb now... What it came down to me to decide for Sony was Holding the different brands, I didn't like the feel of the Canon or the Nikon compared to the Sony, the Sonys just felt so much more "right" in my hands. And for my definate Amateur level, it's not like I need excessive amounts of Pro features, I just want a cheapish camera that can supplement my P150 Sony point and shoot with a decent telephoto lense for outdoors shots which are too far to zoom the PnS to snap.

If you do a Google site search of HybridZ for Thargard RBxx Pan images, there are a few good pics of the way the base of the pans are angled, showing the pans sitting flat on the ground with the bolt flanges sitting at a decided angle. I went out to the shed where my RD28 block is located and ran a tape measure across, mounting face to mounting face the block is roughly 25cm wide, call it 10" or so. Since the RB/RD series share the same block basics I didn't bother going the few Km to the back hayshed down the farm to measure the RB20's I have down there. From the looks of your pics, you have plenty of room to bolt in a 10" wide block between those mounts.

The RBs DO actually sit at a bit of a slant, You aren't going mad.

I'd switch the 2JZ on your list out for a TVR Speed Six...

In Europe, hence close to UK wreckers with TVR's... TVR flat plane 8 all the way! There are LSx's around, such as in the Vauxhall Monaro (aussie Holden monaro with a new badge) but they aren't as dirt cheap and ubiquitous as the in the US. So go for something a little more Euro and easier to source locally. BMW V12 or TVR V8 would be my picks

http://freespace.virgin.net/bob.carter/Mazda_mx5_V8.htm

you need to go see the guys on www.v8forum.co.uk the buick 215 manufacturing rights were bought by Rover and became the Rover 3.5... I had a rover 3.5 from a 70's P6B rover, sold it to a guy down the road who has 4 or 5 of them. TVR's have them, Westfields have them, lots of UK kit cars have them, Leyland trucks have them... there are LOTS of rover V8's in the UK and they have fitted them to everything from motorbikes to busses. Look for some Buick 300 heads or late 80's onwards Rover heads with the larger intake valves, the Buick and early Rover heads are extremely restrictive. The later rover heads are hardly less so. there are a number of UK makers of aftermarket heads, Merlin is probably the best known. A guy in Australia put a Leyland P76 4.0 (same block and heads, longer stroke) into a Z31.

Did you put the BBs on yourself? Or are these the turbos that came with the motor? Maybe the PO blew his turbo and just slapped another turbo on without doing any further work.