kiwi303

Why live somewhere with a HOA? they aren't worth the hassle from anything I have read. Never lived anywhere with one even when renting in blocks of flats as a student, Seems to be mainly a US thing.

ignore, double post...

If you plan on Engineering... Flag Auckland and head for Dunedin instead, better Engineering school at Otago Uni than at Auckland Uni... Auckland is best at liberal arts, social sciences, Second equal with Christchurch for Medical (except that Chch is a bit disrupted with the quake at the moment) and Second equal with Law with Victoria Uni in Wellington, Waikato Uni in Hamilton is tops countrywide for Management/business and Dunedin in Earth Sciences. Victoria Uni is tops in Political Science and History. NZ is small enough most unis tend to have a field in which one of their departments is bigger and better resourced. A bit like MIT is known for Science/Physics and Harvard for Law...

At one point I nearly got a Scammell Explorer, a 6x6 recovery vehicle version of the Scammell Pioneer the UK Army used as a general heavy duty traction vehicle... 12 litre inline 6 rolls royce engine with a tickover idle speed of 200RPM and TONS of torque. Swing beam rear axles. They used them to haul broken down tanks to be repaired, made M35s look anemic! But haulling my 280ZX back from Christchurch to here I used my old '85 Hilux Surf, what you guys know as a 4Runner. 2 litre 4cyl carbed engine, it didn't like the load

Reading the Dallas car group page the comment form the Joshey guy about the others arguing with two goats (his avatar pic) had me giggling as I thought about joining and quoting his post with a copy of the photo I loaded onto my facebook an hour or so ago... 4 goats hanging in the meat locker here, minus heads, feet and guts. The Mastretta company makes 2 other cars according to Wikipedia, both are straight kit cars, so offering a factory-assembled car instead of a kit isn't a big step up. All the new car is, is a kit car assembled at the factory... When all is said and done, it's still just a kit car, no matter who bolts the kit together.

I remember reading in a history of nascar site, that one team got caught with acid dipped panels to eat them away and lighten the car. They were made to go out and pick up a new car of the same model as was the basis of their nascar entry from a dealership and swap all their go-fast bits onto the stripped ex-showroom floor car. Do you think they'd manage to fit anything onto a showroom car these days?

looks rectangular/triangular dents hammered into the surfaces, very much like the inside of the chamber and top of the piston on a Sthil FS450 brushcutter that lost it's ring and had a piece bounce around the combustion chamber.

for a cheap insecticide, bum enough tobacco to make 3 rollies off a guy that rolls his own smokes, a single chew of chewing bacca, or two tailormades off a guy that smokes boxed stuff. The best is the roll-your-own loose tabacco, it has the least additives, menthol tailormades are the worst. break up the tobacco into a cup and pour 200mls of boiling water over it, leave overnight and come morning, strain the tobacco tea into a sprayer and mist your plants. The Nicotine will kill most pests.

You say the Trans Shop, both of them, told you you had a T5? I wouldn't go near a shop that mixes up a BW T5 and a Nissan FS5W71B...

I just use Moly grease since that's what I get for the the farm workshop and have a good stack of on one of the shelves, a high viscosity agricultural grade moly grease designed for tractors and farm equipment with excellent stick-ability and water resistance properties so it doesn't wash off when fording streams and working the tractors in the rain. The agricultural compound is an excellent storage formula, and I have LOTS of it Any high viscosity grease will do the job. Works great on packing up an old rifle I don't plan to use for a few years as well.

I've seen M35Ax deuce and a halfs going cheap on ebay... should be able to manage your tow needs, and make a nice ride to the memorial day parades.

I use a Moly grease, wheel bearing packing grease. I've stored a motor in a damp hayshed down the back of the farm and it's held up for several years with zero rust on the cleaned & greased surfaces. Just use the grease gun to lay beads all over the surface and rub it over with your hand in a cotton glove to smear it all over. Try to avoid touching the surfaces with your bare hands/skin, your skin oils and sweat are a slightly acid salty secretion.

Gearbox? You mean the recirculating ball stock assisted steering? I don't see a L series Gearbox fitting on a SBC... and you're talking steering? Assuming you mean the power steering box not the gear box... Just find a rack and pinion set from a later power steering model, or from a rack and pinion manual steering if you want to delete the PS pumps et al from the motor.

ooking at the location now you point it out... I would be suspicious that it's euro... Antigua and Barbados have plenty of English, French and Spanish/Portuguese history, more so than Japanese... Could be a volvo, maybe Renault or Peugeot, possibly Fiat or even a Vauxhaul. OP, Can we get an exterior shot of the actual CAR itself? That way there's the possibility of tracking down what COUNTRY it originates from.

Do you have access to the car? or is the pic off the internet? The engine mounts look to be stock so if you have access I would advise searching for a plate or ID code somewhere in the engine bay with an engine code on it. The fan is plastic, before 1970ish that would probably have been stamped sheet metal, so I would put that as the earliest likely age. Witht he pipes wriggling around the carburettor I would suspect it is a thermostaticially water temp based Auto-choked carb, those mainly went out of fashion for more flexible electronicly adjustable steeper motor auto chokes by the 90's as a means of cleaning up carbs somewht without actually going fully EFI. I would say it is a 70's or 80's engine.

I think there's some vampire and mummy DNA engineered in as well. Doesn't matter if it gets killed, it'll still get up and shuffle onwards again.

Has anyone taken a turbo manifold and made a turbo flange to Cat pipe, mounting a slimline high flow cat on an NA car where the downpipe fits on a turbo car?

Torque is torque, and torque twists the frame... basic physics, doesn't matter whether the torque comes from a NA V24 ex-WW2 fighter engine, a V10 ex viper engine, a V8 ex corvette engine or a measly little 125cc ex motorbike single cylnder running 400 psi of boost to make a 1000 HP.

Or if you want ITBs and have the cash, get a complete bolt-on system from Extrudabody. L6 head to triple DCOE manifold, and a 6 set of ITBs with injectors and fuel rail on DCOE-type base plates already kitted out to bolt on the DCOE manifold.

Don't forget the black suits and vapor deposited chrome coated water pistols, the wackier the shape of the pistols, the better. Real MiB look.

Txted my cousin last night, she's in a suburb of Brisbane. "Hey Cuz, You still dry?" Answer I got back was "So far, waiting to see if it stays that way" The place is pretty flat round there.

If this was something you had only just bought and noticed after a few runs, I would have been suspecting the PO had checked the brakes and found the pads were worn gone on one side but some left on the other. To save money he may have bought a set of pads but only changed the one side with the intention of changing the other side when they wore down more... I've bought a car like that once, worn grippy semi-metallic on one side and newish budget cheapest-junk-on-the-shelf pads on the other side. Since you're running non-stock stuff I'm betting however that your pads match...

I have an RB20DE head and an RD28 bottom end here, not quite identical, but I believe the RB25 is a better matchup with the larger bore.

or Extrudabody make a bolt on kit... just remove the SUs, bolt up the ITBs in the SUs place and add an ECU. http://www.extrudabody.biz/servlet/the-299/Kit-cln--Datsun-L6-Twin/Detail "45mm/1.75 or 48mm" Twin SU Kit: Includes 2 ITBs (45mm or 48mm bore, clear anodized), 13" Fuel Rail (clear anodized with Red Anodized Hardware and -6AN Fittings), Base Plates for SU Pattern, Throttle Cam & Stop, TPS with subharness, 2 Air Horns, 2 Air Filters, and all required Stainless Steel Bolts. NOTES: Manifold is not included. Fuel rail comes drilled for injectors. - Fuel Injectors, Manifold, and hoses are not included, Injectors are available in the injectors Dept."

Looks like they raided the Moon Buggy for it.