kiwi303

I like the long nose look, my great uncle had a 280zx once for a while before he died, and I've like the RX7 and Supras that are more common here. I was shopping around for a project car and it was a toss up on whether I found a 924, 944, 928, supra, RX7 or Z/ZX first for the best price. I got the '79 ZX with no engine, a dual exhaust with v8 crosspipe fitted and a box of misc swap parts including prototype SBF mounts and engine bits. All for $350. back in 2008. It is still in the hay shed at my mothers farm in NZ with an Aussie Ford Cleveland block and 302 crank from a Falcon/Fairmont plus various parts like 2bbl intake and air cleaner, 17x7 Boyd Coddington (sp) billet alloys and new front lower arms with poly bushings. I'm in China so can't work on it currently. but when I get back, I'll still have my toy to wrench on.

Stock engines are around with over 350,000 Km, 200,000 Miles... If it's in good shape, it's cool. If it's leaky, oil all over, running funny, then it's probably not cool. Use your eyes, if it looks thrashed, it was probably thrashed, if it looks well maintained but normally dirty from use, it's probably good. If it looks polished and shiny but the car looks dirty, the seller probably cleaned it all up to hide marks of leaks or problems. Use your common sense. An unmolested example given routine fluids changes and regular maintenance is pretty reliable.

I'd put a relay in line to the "On" wire from the ignition, then the other side of the relay a line from the battery with a 5A fuse. You'd have clean power from the battery without putting a new draw on the old stock harness. I'd choose the "on" position wire over the "Acc" position wire since you only need the wideband when the engine is on.

Here: "The manifold shown represents the quality of the manifold but the style and size may be different depending on which type is purchased." Look at the part numbers: Part Num. : 10521009 (GC210 HR30 S130 HS130 TD07S 42.7mm/42.7mm) Part Num. : 10521025 (HCR32 ECR33 TD05/TD06/T67 42.7mm/42.7mm) Part Num. : 10521017 (ECR33 42.7mm/50.8mm) and lower the cars: Nissan Skyline HR30 (Zenki - 8/81-7/83) Eng: L20E Nissan Skyline HR30 (Kouki - 8/83-7/85) Eng: L20E Nissan Skyline GTS HCR32 (Zenki - 5/89-8/91) Eng: RB20DET Nissan Skyline GTS HCR32 (Kouki - 8/91-8/93) Eng: RB20DET Nissan Skyline GTS25 ECR33 (Zenki - 8/93-1/95) Eng: RB25DET Nissan Skyline GTS25 ECR33 (Chuki - 1/95-1/96) Eng: RB25DET Compare the part number model codes to the car type model codes and the engines. Same manifold with different flanges compactly listed under one advert instead of 3.

Probably they have the same header tubings, welded to different flanges. I'm guessing the same header primaries, lengths, collecters, just different bits to bolt to the different heads.

From the shape of the front of the car, instead of a headlight bucket I think a GTST or other 90's Skyline light set would be more true to the design than the S30/130 buckets.

Check out www.kiwishipping.co.nz they specialise in US old iron to NZ but should have a good grasp on NZ to US... a 5.7 metre, by 2.4 wide by 2m high 2,000Kg car on their estimate sheet comes to 982 NZD from LA depot to NZ depot. so a bumper shouldn't be TOO bad from Mainfreight NZ to LA, and LA to WA should fit in a greyhound bus, which I gather is the cheapest oversize shipment method other than bulk freight.

Search ZDDP, it is the "Zinc" mentioned, the zinc fumes in burnt oil are murder on catalyst converters actual Catalyst material, reacting and changing them to non-catalysing material. SO... the modern oil specifications are very low or no ZDDP, the ZDDP protects extended metal-on-metal rubbing, bearings run on a film of oil, metal-oil-metal but cams run metal-metal as they are not enclosed between the camshaft and the rockers. Modern cars designed for zero-ZDDP oils use roller rockers. All you need to do is ditch the modern SAE grade SM oils and look for SL or older grade oils marketed for old cars.

My '79 ZX sitting on blocks in the hayshed back in NZ has a NAPS badge on the back, Japan domestic model. No manifold in the bay tho, it's been cleaned out for the 302 ford Cleveland.

Thats parasiting energy from the compressor sides stuff-it-down-the-engines-throat mojo...

S**T, Shanghai is pricy... Shenzhen you'd get 5 whores plus the rest for that. I hope the Shangers ones are lookers.

Petrol. $200 is too little to bother with, might as well burn some gas.

If you really want to play with the manifold to clean it up, have a look at the home chroming kits. Clean the pipe and flange up and coat the pipe and outsides of the flange with a coating of wax, leaving just the sealing face clear, then stick it in the chrome bath and build up a layer of chrome on the face of the flange. Once it's thick enough to fill all the pits and warps, just mill it off level and it chould seal again. P.S. Nice girl.

The 360 seems to put it's torque down lower in the rev range, but the 383 has more torque, so whether there is already as much torque at the same rev point as the 360's peak is debatable without a side-by-side dyno graph. It would depend on your application, low rev cruiser or mid revs play car, neither looks to count as a high rev screamer.

GRID Z concept CAD rendering car fitted with a Ferrari flat plane V8 mated to 4wd manual out of a Skyline...

I know that Merschmitt was using mechanical fuel injection on their fighters, part of what gave the RAF problems since the Merlin was SU fed, until they fitted restricter plates to the SUs to balance inverted and extreme manuvering operations. Took 15 years to move from fighters to consumer cars, Peugeot was using MFI on the 504 as an option when they came out, '68. EFI, well, I'm not up on my history of that, as a kid I pored over books of war stuff, not old cars

Bit late now, but still: The only major differences between the Z and the L series motors is the deck height, the Z is taller than the L, same L series bolt pattern on the tranny end. Even the Z timing cover will bolt to the L block, an OzDat member used a Z timing cover as part of his KA24E head swap onto a L20B block.

Probably a Bosch mechanical injection system, they had those in the 60's...

Likely a No then, I was spending most of my time down the road in Talisay city rather than in Cebu City, some facebook and Yahoo Messenger friends live there so I dropped by. Was planning to spend a couple days SCUBA diving, but picked up a cold, not a good idea to dive with stuffed sinuses stopping you equalising. Bangkok should be fun, I considered it, but redeye flights to Cebu were SO much cheaper.

Geeze, that turbo looks almost as big as the rest of the motor!

Hmm, not sure WHICH bars I got to other than Silver Dollar, Alcohol Induced Amnesia can be a pain... I do have memories of a viking hat, so probably made it to Viking and Viking Next Door

I've seen pics of a Northstar running with the exhaust in the valley. Pretty custom work.

If you're looking for a bolt in, I'd look on ebay and Craiglist for a running, reliable rustbucket. In a JY others are likely to have pulled bits off already, and it it's running when you buy it, then you know it should run after the swap.

BenG, Big blocks are a different casting to the Small bocks, bigger all over, bore/stroke and external size. A stroked/bored Smallblock can get close to a stock bigblock, but a Bored/Stroked Big Block can get HUGE displacements...

makes my collection look tiny... Ruger 10/22 (inherited from Dad) 1940 SMLE 1898 MLE 1950's/1960s (they didn't date them) Australian Sportco single shot .22 1950's-1970's Parker Hale Safari (Mauser 98 made in England with postwar reparation dies, has the thumb cutout for stripper clip feeding which shows military manufacturing machinery) Harrison and Richardson "Topper" 12G single barrel shotgun, 3" magnum chamber, My one and only gun bought new. Old stuff has character.