kiwi303

Try looking at spark plug colour charts, I wouldn't be surprised to find a close correlation between spark and turbine colours for rich/lean etc.

Was that the one that went on trademe?

hmm, scantily clad promo girls hanging around car shows handing out the brochures and lounging around draped suggestively over the cars, matching badges on the cars and their bikinis You don't trust GM, Ford, Toyota or any other mainstream manufacturer then

Holden made some AWD V8 sports pickups and wagons using the same base Commodore chassis, lengthened, as what the GTO/Monaro chassis was based on. Pity they didn't get exported to the US like the GTO did.

Thats only so in countries like the US where the RBs weren't used much. Here in NZ every other car you see at a drift track seems to be an RB powered Laurel, Cefiro or Skyline and there are LOTS of aftermarket producers of parts. I think there are more RBs than RWD SRs around here.

What caused the strike?

Would you buy a boat just to get your hands on a LD28T? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Boats-marine/Motorboats/auction-253871719.htm

LD28T's are in NZ in some of the older diesel cars and patrols as well, seen at least one LD28T patrol on Trademe in the past and I believe a TD maxima was available.

Snow? SAAB!

even 3/4 asleep, I think most people would notice the difference between a flywheel with a clutch assembly bolted to it, and a flex plate with a torque converter torus bolted to it...

Never seen this thread before, interesting. The new Royal Navy destroyers and Protector class offshore patrol vessels of the NZ Navy are welded using friction stir welding. On the glueing cars together front however, most modern cars do have adhesive in the joins between panels, but as I understand it, that is not primarily for the structural bonding, that is provided by the spot welds, with the gluing action being a bonus. The adhesive is more of a anti-vibration damper which stops creaks and groans as the chassis flexes going over bumps and as a chassis stiffener. So while it's not there to keep bits from pulling apart, it does stop them moving around in place as much, absorbing vibrations and stopping them propagating through the body.

Grovel convincingly in the direction of the Mods, and ship the one that takes pity on you a crate of beer

nice, I've been looking at a '94 318i 2 door coupe as a third car. I'm pulling the '85 hilux off full roadgoing registration to a rural registration (MUCH cheaper, but limited to 21 Km from the farm gate on public roads, enough to pick up stockfeed and baby animals, but not enough to make trips to town) and replacing it's roadgoing duties with a more economical new (used) car. BMWs are nice cars.

Hmm... Portland Oregon? Take it and your wallet round to Rusch motorsports

As I understand it, the head and chamber (same thing isn't it?) has the water there to remove the heat, the bores have the water in the block, the pistons however only have the cooling obtained from radiation off their base and from oil splash, hence why modern turbo motors have oil squirters built in. Piston cooling via conduction to the bore via the skirts through the bore is difficult due to friction against the bore, even lubed there is still friction caused heat. So the piston is the hottest part of the bore/head/piston combination, and is why most damage in a failing engine is to the piston. Coating the piston reduces heat soak into the piston, allowing the piston to cool itself better by oil splash and radiation of heat. This strengthens the piston, the chamber temps and bore temps show a minuscule increase in temperature unless the cooling system is already at it's limits. The coolant simply removes the heat so much more effectively than anything the piston has available. So just coating the pistons is fine, there's no real need to do the chambers as well, just make sure your radiator isn't clogged.

Bump? Google images dosn't bring up a helpful image of a cleveland and a windsor cam next to each other...

When I got my '79 S130 it had the exhaust removed, a twin pipe with cross pipe exhaust for a V8 installed, and various ford V8 random bits floating around inside. There was a set of standard pistons with 302C cast in them, and a set of timing gears/chains, and a camshaft for a V8 as well as a big air cleaner with "4 barrel" decal on it. The previous owner bought it from another guy who was planning to install a ford V8, and never did anything further before selling it on to me. So the parts are presumed to be Ford. I got back this week from a trip to the North Island from here in the South Island, and while up there picked up a 302 Cleveland V8 block and crank. I was looking at Kelford Cams regrind service and wondering how to tell a Cleveland cam from a Windsor cam... Or even a Chev from a Ford cam... Help me please

You don't have your location enabled, that would give a better answer, Canadian artic circle would be different from mexican desert... people have discussed it on Hybridz before, consenus seems to be that if you're in a effing hot location such as Texas or Hell, they're usefull, but anywhere with a normal climate it's fine to haul it off. it's a matter of how hot the underbonnet temps get, if the car can cool in the ambient temps, everything is fine, if it's too hot and/or sunny where you are and the car can't loose the heat, heat soaking of the fuel rail may occur. unusual, but it does sometimes happen. so, are you somewhere hot or up in the chilly mountains?

baseball bat or 12G in the face?

Good luck with the quitting. Oddly enough I've never had any problems with withdrawal, started smoking '00 at uni, cold turkey in '08, just decided not to buy a pack ofr cigs since I wanted somethign else and never bought a pack since, still got 3 or 4 gigars in the humidor in my bedroom in a box. Never felt the craving to go light one up. Hope you have it as easy

No updates for a fortnight, I'm on the wrong island and 700 road kMs away so can't work on it until I get home before I left, I had a go at the surface rust spots with a wire brush and some aerosol paint, just to keep them from getting worse.

Have a look at BRAAPs sales stuff, I think he had a GTO pan.

done a bit more work on it now, the carb was stuck solid, a 2 foot pry bar on the throttle arm wouldn't move it, so the carb came off and sat in CRC 5.56 for a while, and it's now as smooth as silk. I need to find a solex carb rebuild kit and give the carb a proper rebiuld, plus poking around shows the coil is buggered, so a new coil goes on the list.

Actually, penetrate means poke through, not go further. I read the current existing wording as meaning that one cannot make new holes through panels or firewall to insert tubes through, but note the wording allows cars with no panels or firewalls to have tubes to the wheel well. They can extend forward to the firewall, bulkhead or wheel well, they just cannot PENETRATE any panel, I read that as be inserted through purposefully cut holes to allow the tubes further reach. There is no mention about whether they can use PRE-EXISTING holes to reach the firewall bulkhead or wheel well which is their furtherest reach. The purpose is obviously to avoid the cutting and therefore weakening of panels, but utilising an existing hole, would not comprise weakening of the panel.

what about using existing holes? haul out the rubber grommets and run the pipes through the electrical and heater core holes already there?