kiwi303

it's an odd thread...

I have a pair of 44mm (1.75") SU carbs with electric chokes, however I'm not sure what the wiring is that is needed to allow them to be hooked up to a formerly Manual choke engine. Obviously one will be ground, one will probably be a 12V linked to when the ignition is on, and a third connected to the coil somewhere to activate when the engine is running. That seems to be the standard system on most electric chokes, however, there are 5 pins on the SUs I have in the connector socket. what would the other two be and does anyone have a SU manual? These are ZXF1475R tag specs, 3 screw tops out of a 1984 3.5L Landrover V8 and will being re-needled and fitted to a 2.0L Toyota 3Y on a custom pipe setup. (from BFJ 3.5 needle to BDM or BAL as fitted to 2.0L Trumph TR7's) Unless someone wants to buy these off me for $70 plus shipping and I'll just get the HS4 1.5" linked pair that have popped up for sale off a 2L Triumph motor lol

Right, I have the RD28 sitting in the hay shed down besides the HGS130, turns out the previous owner hadn't drined the oil before removing the RD from the C33 it came out of. I and everyone I know drain the engines before removal, so I didn't ask, just made an assumption and picked it up in the serena with a tarp over the carpet. needless to say it left quite a bit of oil on the carpet! So the carpet is now out of the back of the van Next step is to haul off the head and bring it up to the workshop so I can have a look at the injector pump. NZeder? If the pump is shagged out beyond what I'd be interested in rebuilding, would you like me to quiz Mainfreight about shipping a short block RD28 from Nelson to Auckland depot to depot? cost $50 from wekkington to Nelson depot to Depot for a M76 gearbox from a XF Falcon, so likely less than a hundy for a short block to Aucks.

It may well go to court, but if he's old enough to know his own mind and hold his own and he can impress the judge, you could well end up with custody yourself. I'm no expert on USA law, but here it would hinge on the judges view of whether he is mature enough to decide, and they will generally follow the decision of the child if they do believe they are mature enough. Those cops will be taking notes on their views of the parents (you and the mother) other hangers on involved (boyfriends/girlfriends/step parents) and how they all act and react. A hysterical ranting and raving mother and a stubborn determined kid that seems more sensible than the mother (pretty much what you described) should have a good chance.

Aren't the Evo Lancer Mitsubishi's transverse front engine AWD? can you hack the side out of the tranny and weld it in on the other side so it pokes out the front instead of the rear, shift the rear diff to the new front and flip it upside down?

I don't think so, the end with the hole is wrong for a pocket knife, they would have a rounded end rather than corners rounded but basicly left square. looks more like it would fit on a ring like a set of keys than as a fold up pocket knife or multitool.

me 2

the next question is why would you want to?

Plug-In Engine Management Dedicated engine management systems built for a specific application (vehicle). Very little installation is required as they plug directly into the factory ECU connectors. Link Plug-In Engine Management Systems provide an invisible installation as they are installed in place of the factory circuit board inside the original ECU casing. Like the Wire-In systems, they are fully adjustable using PCLink tuning software and can be used with the DisplayLink. http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management/Plug-In/Plug-in-home http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management/Plug-In/nissan-plugin-ecus Nissan Silvia S13 (180SX) - SR20DET multi-coil Nissan Silvia S14 (200SX) - SR20DET multi-coil Nissan Silvia S15 (200SX) - SR20DET multi-coil Nissan Pulsar N14 -SR18DE distributed Nissan Pulsar GTiR - SR20DET Distributed Nissan Skyline GT-R (R32 -R34) - RB26DET Nissan Skyline GTS (R32-R33) - RB20DET / RB25DET

If you want an aftermarket one, LinkECU in NZ here make a plug-in for RB engines. Works like the factory ones and plugs right into the RB loom with the factry loom socket, but can be tuned on the go just like their fully featured aftermarke ECUS.The NZ/US dollar exchange might make it attractive costwise now.

Because the clutches were different, Turbo and NA have the same cranks, but the NA has a 225mm friction surface dia and the Turbo has a 240mm dia surface.

Gear ratios: Z31 http://www.az-zbum.com/information.transmission.shtml Hardbody/Navara http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/hawaiianhardbody/transmission.html S13/S14 http://www.phattransmissions.com/200SXWiki/index.php?pagename=Main.ModelSpecifications You can also get the FS5W71C in RB bellhousing models from the NZ/Aust RB30e Commodores. Dunno the ratios tho.

From what you describe, if you want a watch, one of those chunky SWATCH ones made out of a crushed Ali can would be more her thing. Thats a classy, prim power-suited woman type of watch, the kind of woman to wear that would be drinking chateau lafitte and reading old classics like tolstoy IMHO.

Nup, Rover V8. P6B 3.5 block (between 1974 and 1976 manufacture) with mid '80s head, bored .060 to 3.9 bore dia, plus other stuff to be done to it. It's currently sitting in the garage in bits as I potter around doing this and that. getting the Hilux running is taking priority so we have a farm truck with towball again, that's got two SU HIF6 carbs en route and I'll be making a "T" mount out of steam pipe. the throttles will be the tricky bit.

Ah, thanks for that, I can't read japanese either, and babelfish turns out a hash Hopefully there'll be a nice translator on here along soon I'm in the nelson lakes, about an hour and a half out of Nelson/Richmond and about 45 mins from Murchison. so I doubt shipping to aucks would be worth it when you ought to be able to find an RD28 in Aucks with a buggered headgasket/pump for about the same price as shipping would be. Out of curiosity I checked out the prices for a Pump rebuild kit, Complete pump rebuild parts come to $150 + gst, head gasket in the pre '93 non-turbo 1.03mm size is 98.15 + gst, head bolts 43.15 + gst, Timing belt = 18.90 + gst. so for about $350 plus some work I ought to be able to fix up an engine that sells regularly for approx $1000 on trademe. I think I'll run a straight edge over the block and see if it's good, if it's not, well, part out time if it is, might be worth greasing it up and sitting it in a corner to wait for after the RV8 is finished. or maybe do it up and sell it to cover the costs of the RV8. I wouldn't bother touching the bottom end pistons/rings in that case, just the pump and gasket.

Cheers Thanks for that

Yah, I thought about that after posting. I picked the Nissan L6 section over the RB since it is an L6 yet is an RD. I suppose the moral might be, "don't focus on the tree to the exclusion of the forest... Now I just don't want to repost and get slapped down for cross posting everywhere There was another that search pulled up asking the same, but... no answer.

I've bought a dead cheap RD28 diesel with a leaking injector pump and a suspect headgasket, since I just wanted the Alternator off the motor I've no problems pulling it apart and dumping the block etc to a scrap dealer. But is the RD crank any use for a RB builder? They're 83mm stroke and use RB journal size (I think, I can check) and might be useful to someone to build a stroker RB?

AH, Now I know It makes sense given the posting I've been doing in the 180* thread, even though I haven't managed to fab up a crank yet... I was expecting something along the line of antipodean gun nut tho given my user name is the national bird + a rifle calibre

I saw the pic of your Z with it's wheels in the air in the last copy of Petrolhead I picked up on my latest trip to town. nice airspace below the tyres

I wonder what my reputation is like on here... only one way to find out

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-Daycab-Truck-Auto-Car-Transporter-Hauler_W0QQitemZ300290037245QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCommercial_Trucks?hash=item300290037245&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1308

Check out snopes et al, there have been emails about WD-40 being good for all sorts of things on a long list, and a reply from the WD-40 makers refuting about 2/3rds of them, WD-40 is actually Petroleum based. To keep the iron liner sleeves on my rover V8 clear I used CRC 5.56 to wipe down and clean them, then rubbed heavy lithum based grease over the bores. You'd be best to use a storage grease like cosmolene (check army surplus stores) or similar.

The first of those turbo systems looks like the GenTT Holden Commodore VE system here. the model for the VT-VZ which are the preceding models has a bit more power but not so much torque. for a 180 design I'd be looking at a intake like this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-350-400-CHEV-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-WEBER-MANIFOLD_W0QQitemZ350154164391QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item350154164391&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A1|39%3A1|240%3A1318 fab up a pair of plenums with throttle bodies on the front, and drill and weld injector sockets to the Ali runners. Each of a pair of turbos (one per bank) runs to it's own plenum via it's own intercooler. how much sense does that make? Would the plenums be best with a balance tube between them? or a pressure valve/sensor gadget to ensure both sides have equal pressure? I wouldn't think it would be good for an engine having 3 or 4 psi more to one bank than the other... otherwise, can the DCOE carbs that this is for be set up as blow-through?

so what do you call a bridgeport? I only know that at a model of rotary mazda engine.