beermanpete

This might work: http://www.mcmaster.com/#sundry-plugs/=hieeqv

Check the oil in the damper (in the carburetor). It might be low.

It is tough to get those bugger is there but some of it is due to the angle. Once the strut is in the arm it is not as tight as it seems to be going in. Anyhow, it needs to be a close fit to control the end play properly the strut does not move back and forth due to the accelration and braking loads.

Cool beans. Perseverance pays of once again.

I don't know about other states but cutouts are illegal in California.

Not so far. We have never observed any leaks due to expansion. The way we use the car may impact this. We use the car at the race track so the fuel get consumed quickly; the car does not sit with a full tank for long.

We did the same as z240. The only difference is we run the vent line from the T-fitting at the filler neck up and over the filler, then down through the floor of the car out near the right rear wheel. This allowed removal of the control valves and hoses from the engine compartment.

A bad mechanical fuel pump can allow fuel into the oil. Typically, a bad diaphragm will allow fuel to into the engine and it will also leak out of the vent hole on teh side of the fuel pump. Look for evidence of a fuel leak on and around the fuel pump. If one of the carburetors is flooding some of the fuel can get past the rings and into the oil. You would likely also see fuel running out from the carbs into the air box, onto the engine, and so on. Since you have been having so much trouble getting the engine to run it could be that some of the fuel (that should be there) has run past the rings since it is not being burned. At this point don't worry about it unless the oil level is too high. Get the car running and then change the oil.

That wire has the correct connectors on it but is not fusible link wire. You need to replace it with a proper fusible link or the Maxifuse as suggested by Rossman. Fusible link wire is available at most auto part stores. Fusible link sizing is not based on amperage but by wire gauge. My understanding is to use a fusible link that is 2 wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire it protects. The white/red wire is 10 gauge, so use a 12 gauge fusible link wire. If you use the Maxifuse use a 60 amp fuse.

The alternator output goes through the large (10g) white/red wire. This wire goes into the cabin to the fuse box, ammeter, and ignition switch. From the ammeter a 10g white wire goes to the starter motor, connecting to the main battery cable through the fusible link. The battery is charged thought the white wire.

Using an adjustable prop. valve should help. Generally the new valve is installed in the cockpit, in a location the drive can reach while driving. It can be installed under the hood as well. We have the Wilwood valve in our car. There are other brands. They all do the same thing. Summit, Jegs, and other mail order companies have them. Here is the Wilwood valve at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/ To install the new valve you need to remove the original valve. It not recommended to have 2 prop valves installed. In the early cars the valve is located under the car near the rear axle. Starting in '73 it is on the firewall just to the right (passenger side) of the brake master. In the 73 and newer cars the front brake line connects to the prop valve too so it has to be reconnected properly with a union.

Falken Azenis RT-615K 205/50R15 on 7" wheels.

What does the spark look like? Is it blue or yellow? Can you hear it? How long of a gap will it jump? There is only one firing order. 1-5-3-6-2-4. If the oil pump drive gear has been installed incorrectly it will change where the rotor points when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder. Depending on how for off the oil pump gear is you may need to rotate the distributor nearly to the end of its range of adjustment to set the timing and/or move the plug wires to different positions in the cap. The distributor rotates anti-clockwise when looking at it from the top. Place the plug wire for the #1 cyl. in the postion on the cap that is the closest to the rotor tip when at TDC. Install the remaining plug wires according to the firing order in a anti-clockwise direction. In case you are not aware of it, there are 2 timing adjustment clamp screws. The one easily reached from the top to set the timing has a limited range of travel. The other is on the bottom of the distributor housing. I tend to think of them as coarse and fine adjustments. Just to be clarify a point that has been misunderstood by others, the cyliders are numbered 1 through 6 starting at the front and moving toward the rear of the car. Yes, the rotor is supposed to point to about 9 o'clock when the engine is at TDC. However, it will run correctly if it dose not as long as you accomodate the difference as described above. Don't bother taking the oil pump out to correct it in an attempt to get the car to run. It is not necessary. You can get the car to run regardless of the oil pump drive gear timing. Once you get the car running and if the oil pump happens to be timed wrong and it bothers you then go ahead an correct it. Edit: Removed erroneous comment about distributor adjusting screws.

Happy Birthday!!

Good to hear you got it sorted out and running better.

Yes, the input shaft is split. There is a bearing between the forward most gear and the gear just behind it. The transmission has 3 shafts. The input shaft, the main shaft, and the counter shaft. The input shaft and the main shaft are on the same center line. The counter shaft is offset from the main shaft. If you have not already done so, get a copy of the factory service manual here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The manual transmission section has good illustrations that explains all this.

The smaller line is a fuel return to help prevent vapor lock. We mounted the pressure regulator to the fender near the original fuel filter.

You don't need to pack the transmission bearings. Lube them with the gear oil you plan to use. If you feel the need for a tacky assembly lube use a grease with a lower melting temperature than the operating temp. of the transmission. We used automatic transmission assembly lube for the pocket bearing and to help hold the lock balls on the main shaft in place during assembly. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-705050/ The input shaft end-play is controlled by the bell housing. It will be floppy when the housing is off. You will probably need to remove the tail housing to diagnose the problem with 1st/2nd. If there is a problem with the synco or related parts on the main shaft you will need to fully disassemble the gear box to work on it.

Here is a link to a page describing how to install the E12-80 in an early Z. Maybe it will help. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Hmmm... Either the new ignition module is not working correctly or you upset something else while switching the distributor. Check for vacuum hoses off and other possible vacuum leaks.

The procedure I use for "dead" timing is: 1) Remove #1 spark plug. 2) Remove distributor cap. 3) Turn engine by hand (clockwise, the normal direction) while holding a finger over the plug hole until you feel air pressure building. An assistant makes this easier. 4) Continue turning until the timing marks are lined up to TDC. 5) Look at rotor position. It should point forward, toward the radiator. 6) Insert #1 plug wire in distributor cap position that lines up with rotor tip. 7) Install cap. 8) Insert the other plug wires in the cap following the firing order (1-5-3-6-2-4) in an anti-clockwise direction. 9) Replace #1 spark plug. 10) Start engine. 11) Assuming the engine runs correctly, set timing. The distributor is not supposed to allow being installed backwards (180 out). The drive tang is offset a little bit for this purpose. There have been reports of people installing them backwards despite this. The rotor tip should point to about 8:30 when the engine is at TDC for the #1 cylinder. View looking down at the distributor from the driver's side of car. The oil pump drive gear installation affects the distributor position. If the oil pump is installed wrong the rotor can point to any position around its rotation. Also, the point cam cam be installed backwards which will cause the rotor to be 180 out. None of this will prevent the engine from running properly as long as you get the #1 plug wire positioned to match the rotor position AND you can set the timing without the vacuum advance servo hitting the engine block or other parts near it.

Fifth and reverse are behind the adapter plate. you have to remove the tail housing to see them. As for not shifting into first/second, You should be able to select them with the impromptu shifter. Attempt to select first or second and see if the shift fork is moving. You can try to move the shift fork directly as well. Only one gear is allowed at a time so the others must be in neutral.

It sounds like you have the timing 180 out. You might have had the #1 cylinder on valve overlap instead of the compression stroke.

Ok. Let us know how it works out.

Ok. So you know the engine is not locked up. I agree with Ritrebor, make an offer and take your chances. Don't spend time increasing the value of the car before you buy it.