Pharaohabq

Yeah, if you have a power washer, you can blast through the engine and flush out all the crud. Flushing the radiator too is a good idea., but really a little rust is normal. it's not going to hurt anything, you just don't want too much to build up and clog the Radiator passages. The head, shouldn't be a big deal once you get the new head gasket. Make sure you've flushed any rust out of the cylinders before you put it on, you don't want to scar your walls.

Good job BJ. Yeah poor connection or corrosion is really the main cause of heat in the circuits. The original soldering job for 40 years ago was maybe marginal so it's not suprising we have fuse box issues. For the 240Z MM makes a replacement fusebox complete with plugs. The pointy leads on your meter is not for poking through insulation if you can avoid it, it's much more for poking into the back of plugs to reach the spades. poking into wires is an easy way to bleed, or cause a short, hopefully not both. RebekahsZ, That "add in Fuse" isn't in parrallel with the stock fuse is it? If it is, the current would be divided between the two and neither would blow before the harness melted. you should remove any fuse from the stock location and bend the holder to prevent anything from being placed there. That could explain why it was partially melted, though it's likely the connector is corroded.

I dunno, just dust it off, i bet that one could still work No really, You can use about any Relay, but be sure you're using one rated for the amps that the fuel pump will draw. Too small a relay and it will arc and possibly fuse inside which could be bad. The S30 is a 12V system. I think the Fuel pump circuit is on a 15A fuse, so a 20A relay should be fine.

Okay, I think you've convinced me that I need to go learn to do Carbon fiber moulding. your CF looks awesome. Those plenum are going to be so pretty connected to the turbos.

That's looking pretty cool. Is the hood going to fit over that turbo without getting the paint bubbled? Is he using solid mounts with no rubber isolators?

I haven't seen it, but concievably with a lot of hacking it could be done. issues tho is the Z32 has much different heads than the Z31 VVT etc. Could you use a Maxima harness? I've seen Z31 harnesses on L28's but never a Z32 harness on a Z31. It would probably be easier to repair your existing Z31 harness than to try to retrofit a Z32 harness.

Heya MadZcar, yup I am on here all the time. You may be able to use the stock G35 crossmember mount, but I think you'd be looking at a lot of fabrication. The S30 frame rails are ~25" apart which doesn't leave much room. Not to mention Isn't the Stock G35 crossmember Aluminum? I'm probably wrong on that. The Stock engine mounts are pretty huge. The can be used though. Look up AHoke's 240Z build. He used the stock mounts but not the crossmember. Don't cut your S30 frame especially south of the Steering crossmember. you don't want to sacrifice strength. I wrapped my rails to increase strength with 1/4" steel. Really, you'll save a ton of headache if you use the McKinney VQ mounts. There's a DIY version of the same on here if you're up for doing it yourself. Ebay has genetic rubber mounts that bolt through to a crossmember for pretty cheap. McKinney's is not cheap, but it's well thought out and made. Yay! Pulling ther Engine and Tranny! that's a big milestone, good work! Be sure to pull off yout shift knob before pulling, I scuffed the heck out of mine being stupid. Gotta replace it now. You're in such better shape by having the donor there availiable. Whatever you need, just pull it off. so handy. Beats the heck outta sourcing parts. So cool, I can't wait for pictures! Oh don't forget the dash harness and body harness#2 (leads to Fuel pump) Phar

????!?!???!??? huh?

Hey Sekkyoshi, I'm also in Albuquerque. I was going to try to use a set of 350Z fans on my Z. But really if you're not cooling well enough, maybe you should consider a triple core aluminum radiator. The stock L28 just had the single fan, but electric fans allow for more power. Dual fans always seemed the best idea to me.

passenger side fusebox? If it's just the pump that's not coming on, then yeah look at the fuses, but if it's more than that, you might have popped a fusible link.

It's looking so close man! wow! doing a great job. that dash turned out so sweet. I'm no afraid of doing mine now. I love the texture you'd put on it. Those Radiator hoses are pretty fancy too. Can't wait to hear it run! I hope you'll post a video..

Nice! Good looking swap. Wow having to go RHD that's extreme, but hey it works. So Question though, looked like your hood was having some fit issues. Is it the latch, or is there some other issue? How did you go about the electronics? Did you go with the BCU/Nats elimination (I suspect)?? You Dyno numbers were quite encouraging. 285HP! I didn't see much on how your tranny mounted up (Nice shift knob btw, would like a closer look.

If the system has been opened, from that I've read, you'll need to have it vaccuumed out to get all the air out. Old parts are fine, so long as you've cleaned them out. The condensor should be replaced, since normally there's oil in there that could be gummed up if it's been sitting open. You may be able to just make sue it's cleaned out. If you're changing Refridgerant, then you really should talk to an AC shop. Some R types are corrosive and need more than O rings. but mostly you need to be sure the lubricant is compatible with your pump and with what type the original system used. if it's not, then the system might work for a while but likely your pump will get killed. so my best advice is to talk to an AC shop.

Yeah, I'm really interrested in the idea of a VQ35HR into a Z32. My Vg30De is so tired. it's cheaper to replace than rebuild, which is sad. A VQ would be a lot more power...

oh man, sorry to hear you're having to sell it. If I was in Cali I'd really consider it. But are you willing to part some of the bling? I could really use those brakes and AZCar rear end parts. my wife just had our daughter 2 months ago, so I understand the cost. I'm short on funds myself, but let me know what you're thinking. Eric

Sounds so awesome! I hope you got a good look at the list of parts you should grab with it. Especially the Key ECU BCU combo. The IPDM and fuse box too along with the harnesses would get you so far ahead, and you wouldn't have to pay to have your harness hacked up. I hope you guys got it pulled today. Post us some picts!

Looking good. That's great progress. That Soda did a great job on the aluminum...

240Z service manual. 10MB DL .PDF

So did ja buy it Mazer?

Ebay/MSa should have full kits is you can't get one from autozone/others...

I still say buy it. the accessories alone are worth the $300. What year is the engine? Of course get as much parts as you can. You might even ask him, how much for the whole donor? That's because you'll need to many more parts. A valve cover is cleap. These engines have VVT. so yet, the stock ECU is best. If it's 07+ then it'll also have exhaust adjustment too. Hell if you don't buy it, I might be interrested. I've been thinking of putting one in my Z32 too.

Josh, Hey Pretty much you're right, the surge tank is not entirely needed, though since the S30 Fuel tank is not baffled it is possible to get bubbles in the lines especially swinging around corners. Usually this isn't a problem, but it can cause a stumble in the engine. So having the surge tank FPR from the top and engine outlet on the bottom will allow the bubbles to rise and be pushed out the FPR. The pressurized fuel will go out the bottom to the engine ensuring clear fuel. The return is after the FPR. all the surge tank would then be doing is guaranteeing clear fuel at pressure in enough volume that what ever the engine needed at WOT it would get. The injectors are a lot smaller opening than the 5/16" fuel line, so this shouldn't be an issue. Unless of course, I'm misunderstanding how the FPR works. The FPR as I know it: you set a pressure, the FPR allows the pump to build to that pressure, then allows any pressure above that to flow through. So the return line after the FPR would have tank pressure whatever that ends up. Before the FPR the line pressure should be just whatever the FPR setting isn't letting through. So the return line is after the FPR and not pressurized, thus you can T the return from the canister into it. Another way of setting it up, is on the deadhead idea, where you have your pump pushing down a closed up line up to max pump pressure. the FPR would then be put at the end of that line before the connection to the engine. The FPR would regulate the pressure to whatever setting (55psi) so that the engine only sees 55psi. The fuel like though leading to the FPR could be 100psi or whatever your pump can do. This is good in that your engine would always be guaranteed 55psi even under a heavy draw WOT. but bad in that the high pressure line between the pump and FPR would take a lot of abuse and the pump would always be working really hard (guaranteeing early failure) this would be suceptable to bubbles w/ or w/o a surge tank. As I understand it, these are the two ways I know, Return, and returnless.

Good to know. I've always assumed they were the same. They looked like they were the same size.

Green and Gold, looking good. You've come a long ways. You should address some of those weak paint areas underneath since you live in NY. Wouldn't want it rusting away, after all that work.

YUMMMY!!! that looks like fun.. Well If you're having issues like that I would really recommend you pull the motor and either rebuild it yourself, or have it rebuilt. That kind of crud in the top of the engine means there's crud in all the oil passages, and likely your bearings are in bad bad shape. Not to say it is for certain, but contaminated like that isn't so good. That being said. you could pull off the head, and send it to be rebuilt. then pull off the pan and clean it out. Using brake cleaner sprayed through the passages and maybe replace the rings and bearings while you're there, but it's much easier to do w/ the engine out of the car.