Pharaohabq

S30 and S30 2+2 use the same hatch I believe.

HEy Mazer, I'd say buy it. the heads alone are worth more than $300 on Ebay. The valve cover is cheap. Does it come with the accessories? If so, if it doesn't work out, you'll still make about 500 bucks selling those too. If the engine is good, then you're golden. Things you need to get are as much of the harnesses as you can, engine harness and engine bay harness, the Key, the Dash harness, the ECU, the BCU. the IPDM, AC Amp all from the same donor is best. Grab all the sensors and gauges too if you can as well as the rear diff if availible. Get the gas pedal, and the clutch assy w/ reservior if you can. This is all stuff you'll need to make the VQ go. I saw you reading up in the V6 forum. If you can I'd also grab the door harnesses and the rear body harness so you'll have the fuel pump plugs. All this will save you so much in the future. $300 is a great price depending on what it comes with. Oh! Get all the rubber hoses in the engine compartment too if you can. Sort em out later.

Looks pretty nice. Uhm... I know stupid question, but how do you get the clay and foam out w/out cutting the pretty CF up? oh wait! the metal where the intake tubes will come off right? How many layers of CF are you going to use? I imagine you'll need a few since your turbos will be pushing 15-20 psi right?

I've been asked a few times about how I'm going to do my fuel system. so here's an exerp of one of my replies: Now Fuel system. There's a lot to be said about the fuel system. Different ways of setting it up. I'm sure you've all read a lot of the builds for the VQ35 Z swaps. A lot of people setup a "deadhead" type swap, where there's just one line running from the rear to the engine. This is good, mainly because you can have higher pressures/ Volumes by replacing the stock lines. If you're not adding Turbos or bigger injectors, you probably don't have to do this. My plan for running the fuel lines will be to use the stock tank, replacing the stock external fuel pump with a Walborough L255 EFI fuel pump and a high flow filter at the rear. Then running the stock S30 fuel line from the back of the car to to front, where I will have the Surge tank and Fuel Pressure regulator. The surge tank will have 3 lines. The input from the pump, a line from the bottom to the engine, and a line from the top through the FPR, to the fuel return line which dumps back into the tank. The Charcoal canister will T into that after the FPR. The canister takes fumes from the PCV valve and condenses them into fuel, and sets that into the tank, while also allowing vapors into the intake. It's not needed, but if you have it, might use it just to keep the environment happy. Having the FPR on top of the surge will allow any bubbles to flow out through the FPR back to the tank, while the Engine pressure on the bottom is only fuel. The 350Z fuel rails also have their own regulators which I will leave on mine since I'm not changing my rails. the 350z engine fuel line is the same size as the S30, so that should not be a problem. Attached is a diagram. If I have trouble, I can move the surge and FPR to the rear and run both the Fuel and return in parallel to the engine from the bottom of the surge to allow more volume, with no return from the engine. The FPR would dump directly back into the tank. but I don't think that's necessary. Now at this point it looks like a good design to me. Please let me know if you have any input.

nice that 2nd picture shows a little tab that would lock it to the car. that makes a lot of sense.

NICE! that's pretty cool.

I don't know that they have one, But Advanced Adapters makes a lot of different transmission adapters. They may be able to make one for you. http://www.advanceadapters.com you will need to call them. the VQ35 gets it's speedo reading from the sensors/wheels mounted on the differential

do we have any pictures of how this is done? I read the other threads, but I didn't see any pictures of how to do it without damage.

I've been thinking a lot more about this. The windshild would be a lot more difficult, but the hatch might be doable. Assuming you could find glass for it. There would still be some ugly factor on the inside. But to do the hatch, you would need to cut in and recess the hatch straight accoss by about 1/4 inch. once that section has been recessed, you'd probably want to box in the area with sheet metal behind the glass so that the glass would have an area to stick to. Most of these windows have some clips or retainer edge at the leading edge to keep the wind from grabbing it. (see the Z32 hatch) After removing that much metal, I'm not certain how rigid the hatch would be. The Base of the glass would need to be sealed similar to stock to keep leaks out. Maybe not with an H gasket, but some type of seal (again see Z32.) I was thinking to help hide the ugly inside that regular door batting rope could be used, or the original ridge the H gasket normally would be on, could be cut off ground down flush. Either would work. You'd need to be certain you could get the glass before any of it.

Nice!@ A real barn find! hehe, funny how cliche'd that is these days. I can't wait to see pictures!

Do a Search on here about steering. Really though, what is it that you're wanting? a faster rack? The stock Rack is fairly well suited to the S30. If you want, the Miata rack has less turns lock to lock. A Subaru rack can get you power steering, a BMW rack can also be swapped in. So far as I know the 260Z and 280Z racks are identical. The 240Z racks were lighter with weaker knuckles.

yeah, the Combo switch.. Always fun. I've often wondered why they do what the did with it. but then I think oh, made as cheap as possible. Those connectore should run through larger relays like in modern cars. but that would take a bit of setting up. If they were, they could use more reliable switches inside, and would pull less current through the stalk hopefully preventing failures like that. I'm glad you got the lights sorted. Oh, as for your fusable link, you want to use the minimum operable size link as you can, likely 35-40 amp. That's good electrical sense. The minimum amount will allow the fuse to burn before any of the surrounding wires. Replacing with block modern fuses is a good idea, and has been documented on here. ***EDIT***: Hehe Dave above just posted what I was talking about with the combo switch. nice job!

So Fast-Datsun, Does this mean that so long as he's not selling these productionwise to directly compete with you that it's no big deal that he built his own, or if he releases his version of the design files to the public? I realize that yours is not patented either, and that were anyone to directly copy your design that you may be able to build a case against them. But in this case he's designed a similar product using similar design features, which is his to do as he likes with it. Just as would be, if anyone were to design their own engine mounts in any other configuration. I realize that you have a business, and that it's costly to run that business. But affordability of products, or the lack thereof, will promote creation of new products by others.

I've done that, Used a straw to get my valve stems past the seals, it worked great! I've also put them in without anything and didn't have any issue, just use some lube and push it slowly through.

Hey good Job. Looks nice from the picts. What did you do for paint? Did you paint it there outdoors in the sun? It really looks like you've done well. Those Sportmaxx's look pretty good! Almost need wider tires to go on them though, especially since you've got the flares. What did you get 205's? 215's? You should be able to run 225's or even 235's but the price gets up there when you get that wide. Those looked like Falken tires, not sure, hard to see in the pict. Mine were great, but didn't last too long, my bridgestones now are awesome.

It looks pretty awesome, though the picts came out really small. Orange is a good color. 2002 eh? I don't feel so bad, my project started Oct 2008. Did you have a body shop paint it for you, or is this all your effort? Did you strip down to bare metal? Sanded, or blasted? Pretty cool! post us some more picts! 2001 Camero fuel tank? Explain? Phar

Careful adjusting that switch. If it's always on, then if you get in a wreck, the pump will keep pumping so long as the key is on. so just be careful how far you adjust it.

That's looking good. Your mounts came out really nice. You wouldn't feel like sharing the design files would you? PM about that. I'd also like to know what insulators you're using, Those Ford ones look much nicer than my cludged together parts. As for the Steering Uni, I'm using a spare steering uni joint from the junkyard, and will be mounting it in a bearing on a triangular plate by the Driverside strut tower. I'm hoping to be able to fit the stock AC unit. It gets REALLY hot in NM. Can you show some picts of your exhaust wotk on the headers...?

It's probably your AFM. A lot of the trouble you had could be attributed to that, especially on a car this old. Stick your hand in there w/ the car off and make sure the flapper in there moves up and down freely. Change your fuel filter and try again. if the AFM is gummed up, then it's not going to see any additional air flow and throw off the readings for the fuel, causing a rich situation when you step on the gas. on the side of the AFM is a plastic panel, you could open that and clean it too, so you can be sure it's reading right when the flapper moves up. "It's reading right man, it's reading right!" Can't be, they're right on top of us!" "Game over man, Game over."

This would involve a little more than just changing the type/size of glass that's fitted to the car. The flush fit glass on modern cars takes into account the drainage around the windows and the interior trim. On an S30, the seal fits on the glass and on both sides of the glass frame. no only sealing, but trimming both sides. a flush fit windshield would still have a lot of ugly behind it, and would likely leak due to the lack of planned drainage. You'd need to redo your interior trim to cover the ugly inside. This is not to say it can't be done. I'd love to see it, but it's not going to be without it's trials. How good are you at Photoshop? might help to visualize it n see what it looks like before taking the time & work to get it going.

How are things looking? Do you have any more pictures of your projects...?

They should work together 77/78 are interchangable.

It's pretty unfortunate you've had that accident. Unfortunately it's damaged. The Door and fender are easilly replaced. I would worry a lot about the frame. It should be checked by a body shop. The rear quarter is the more difficult part. Really to replace that section will cost more than the car is worth. You can do it yourself if you know what you're doing. That section will need to be fully replaced. You might be able to straighten but it would be much more work. You can get replacement panels from Tabco or other. I would still vote to have you store it and repair it. If you don't then you'd miss it later. Replacing the Door and fender should be relatively easy. The rear can wait to be repaired. Please don't just layer tons of bondo on it. There's already too many that have been repaired that way.

what is the penalty for overmilage?

Mark, Not a problem, I was just thinking this might be another way to make things. My drawings were just an example, but 3d printing could make the plenums and integrate the horns as well, though you're right, The CF would not be so easy to do. Certainly it's your project so however you're want ing to do it is your choice. I was just trying to make suggestions. I love what you've been doing, and if I had the time and budget, my HR build would be much nicer than it is.