Pharaohabq

Hey Mark, I was looking at how to model an intake, and This is what I came up with. Of course it would take a bit more tweaking. I was using the PTC Creo Elements (FREE VERSION!) to make the model. I spent maybe an hour kludging this one together. here's the files as it stands: Intake design.zip You may not be interrested in going this way especially because printing something like this would have some challenges due to the size. (Mainly having to slice and glue.) Though a lot could be done on the design side internally and it would hardly look like it wasn't a single piece since tolerences would be tight. Phar

Hmm pretty cool, really looks like it' would be a pain... Probably could have 3d printed that.. Well in slices anyway. Not certain how ABS would stand up. I've been using it to make some fittings. This is what I use. The steel integration might be more difficult too. Did you check out the link I put up in my last post about the other guy making an intake? Phar

Munter glad to see you're back. You might consider the Arizona Zcar suspension/brakes setup. it's really nice stuff. The swap for inspections part you might consider. Alternately, you might look into what the regulations are for Specialty or Modified cars. some governments make wide allowances for classic/vintage cars. I'm really interrested in seeing what you end up doing. Hope you'll post pictures.

HAve you tried pushing the car? You'd think you could start it that way. Best idea is to just try getting your starter tested. If you can push the car, then likely there's not a problem with the crank.

Cool, I'll check out the Fab forum. 6'5" is about 1.96 meters. so yeah pretty tall. My head barely fits in an S30. long legs, long torso.

Yeah I believe there was a bit of confusion. Jack280's is much nicer. yeah, chopped cars aren't for tall people, (I'm 6'5", I know) but that doesn't mean they can't look cool like Jack's...

Nice Job Jack, You've shown there is a right away and certainly a wrong way to go about chopping a Z. Yours looks much better than the OP car. Would you mind expanding on your vehicle. Tell us how you handled the windshield and wipers. What were you major challenges? and if you had to do it again, what would you do differently? I'd really like to see more pictures. Phar

Hey Mark, Check out how he's building his plenum on this thread, might give you some ideas. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78920-vq30det-into-260z/page__st__40

I think you should be able to do that. I think it's the same spline count. They're both R200's. Your driveshaft length shouldn't be a problem, unless the ZX diff is a short nosed R200.

maybe not all cars have the rear filter. the few I've had, have had them. an inline before the pump and another just after the hard lines before the engine. (in my 280z's, the 260 I had and my 240 both only have one filter.) In anycase. He said the car runs if it's floored. Is it belching black smoke? that would certainly show it's too rich, and be an air problem. No smoke at all, I would think it's not getting enough fuel. Could be the cold start injector is stuck open. Another test you can do is to get starting fluid , clamp off the fuel line and start it off the fluid. if it runs well while spraying that in, then it's probably not the air flow. if not then it could be your AFM. Since you just had the gas tank out, like I said before, I'd suspect it has to do with that.

Actually sounds like the opposite to me. Sounds like low fuel pressure. Low flow = engine barely running. This is also supported by the fact you just serviced the fuel tank. I would replace the fuel filter (hopefully with a clear window one) and see if it works after that. The window will allow you to see if it's clogging up again. DO NOT run w/o a fuel filter, or you're asking for clogged injectors. What all did you do to the fuel tank? Crap in the tank or loose paint will muck things up quick. Best to have it boiled at a radiator shop. Yes do check that your AFM flap isn't stuck too. but I think it's your fuel filters. 280z's have two filters, one back by the pump and one up front on the fender before it goes to the fuel rail. Phar

Okay, no problem. Welded Diff is likely the best case then, or an LSD. I dont know if you can get a locker for the R200. Not as good as 4x4, but if you don't have that option then 2 wheel drive is better than 1. It's your car so it's fully up to you. I imagine with flares what you could likely fit 31's If the travel is high enough, then you may not have too much trouble being off road. I imagine you could probably lift the car 5" over stock without too much trouble, but if you changed to front suspension to something similar to the Jeep TJ, You'd have much more travel than the Stock S30.

Funny how both bulbs went out at once... That's gotta be a rare occurance.

Pretty freakin' cool pictures! it's awesome to see a Z fly! I did a lot of Jeep 4x4'ing, so I'm biased toward jeeps, but this could work. If I was going to build a Z rally car, (I don't know the rules regarding stock engines etc but...) I would really think about putting in the KA24 and 4x4 tranny from the 4x4D21 /Frontier. I don't know how stout the tranny is, but my brother's is a 91' and it's done well offroad for years. I don't know how hard converting the front suspension to 4x4 would be, or if there'd be issues to work out with the steering rack. For that matter, Why stick with Nissan? The GM 3.7L/Auto from the Jeep liberties are not bad at all. I've seen the pictures of the s30's that are just dropped on the Jeep frames. Well sure that works, but ugly.. If you really wanted to fit larger tires, you can do it. You'll need to get some BRE fender flares, and put them in the oven so you can stretch them wider, then cut your fenders to install the flares as high as you can( cutting width as well) From there, look at the shocks. Your suspension relies on long shocks. So cutting the shock towers out, and putting in shock hoop with coil overs would be a great idea. Look at some of the setups on lifted F250's, for ideas. You might also look at the Jeep liberty suspension for ideas on lifting a unibody. Liberties are also IRS, as are subaru's. You might consider installing bad dog rails and bolting skid plates to that. The S30 rails are thin metal and won't take much to bend them. A cage is highly recommended. The job of the car is to get you SAFELY where you want to go. Off road at speed, in a car that is not very wide is a recipe for a rollover. Using wider tires can help with your stability. You don't need 35' or 38's if you're not crawling. The larger tires with smaller rims, especially aired down inprove your grip over rocks and sand. Large tires and large rims smooth out the bumps and won't bounce as much, but aren't as good for crawling. You'll need to decide how you're going to use this. Will it be offroad speed? (I would assume it is) or will it be focused on rock crawling? How you're setting it up would certainly vary on your end goals. I'd really like to see where you do with this. How are your fabrication skills? Welding? You might also look through some of the swap threads to get an idea of how much fun swapping an engine is.

Yeah pull both out at once, It's really easy that way. Trying to separate a tranny and engine on the car is really a pain, but much worse is trying to mate the two IN the car that would just be asking for pain. The stock tranny is only about 100 lbs and will give you a good chance to clean it up and inspect it before dropping it back in. Don't forget to pull out the shift boot before pulling it though, you don't want to have to buy another. If you can find an 82-83' zx tranny, it'll have better gear ratios. It's awesome to see you're still doing the project. it'll go quickly once you get into it. Especially if you have some buds and beer over to help. Guess you've got this years' Bday $$$ to help...

If he rebuilt it, Did he add camber plates for the towers? How aboutr the undercoating, Did they respray that? It sounds like he cut a couple minor corners, but at the same time your car isn't perfect either. Really is the car worth it to you? It would certainly save you a lot of wrenching hours to build up another car like this S30, if you went with this. Seattle had a point about the Value apprieciating, Though a Modified Z, won't necessarily apprieciate like a clean stock S30 would. Are your tire sizes the same? maybe keep his rims and swap in your tires. or better yet, tell him that if he puts new tires on it, then it'll be a deal. What else are your drawbacks on the trade? It sounds to me like you're definitely interrested. Just is it worth it to you is the only questions you have to ask.

I'm glad you're still working on your car. Is the Engine in yet? Yes as Miles said, 125% is a good rule. The Fuse is to protect the wires and what's connected to it. A 15 amp is great. The fuse is always in line of the wire. It's best before the device you're running power to. So Power, Fuse, Device, ground. If you went power, Device, Fuse, ground, they it would work, but if the device shorted to ground, then your fuse would not help at all, and the wire and device could burn. So go, Power, Fuse, Device, Ground.

That should be awesome. Which area will you be mounting the diffuser to? Will you have to cut areas out for the suspension to move and flex? Have you selected a muffler type yet? From the drawing, the muffler looks like it will fit behind the fuel cell.

Or upgrade to an Alt with the built in Regulator.

Well those Rims on the S30, aren't cheap. They look like Rotas, so that's some $ right there. How about the brakes on the S30, have they been swapped over to the toyota 4runner brakes and Disc added to the rear? Both swaps aren't cheap to do. How is the S30 as for rust? how do the frame rails look. Have you gone over the body with a magnet to be sure there's not a lot of bondo? What's the sound system like? Alarm? You're looking at 12K for an 8K car, even $9K You've got to see where that extra value is. Really tho, it's up to you, If you like the S30, and think it's worth it, then make the trade. Cash on top to you is icing... Still it's up to you. Cars as with all things are only worth what someone will pay for it. If you think it's worth it for the personal enjoyment side, then it's worth it. If YOU don't think it is, then well it's your $...

Looking at your trunk, I assume this is a 280Z. Another other way to test it is just to get a length of wire. Turn on the lights, then touch the wire to the leads on the relay that the relay normally would connect when turned on. if the lights come on then it's bad relay, if not then it's something else bad. maybe check your fusable link, that's kinda notorious. yes you can use a meter to check if you're getting power, but a relay is just an electric switch, all it does internally is connect the two Normally Open pins when the coil is energized. Separately from that, if your relay checks out good, and your fuses and fusable links are all good, then next you can start checking wires, which you can do by pulling out the bulb and checking coninuity and voltage point to point, OR, again you can use your length of wire and connect battery power to the relay power wire to the headlight, or directly at the headlight to test the ground. Now you might want to use an inline fuse on your wire, just incase you tough the battery wire to ground, the frame or what not, so you won't burn the wire or your car's wiring. Now I'm not saying the meter isn't the better way to test it, I'm just saying if you know what you're doing you can safely test things with a length of wire.

Nice, that sounds awesome. Thanks for the link. it's pretty cool, I guess the screens help keep the air out of the pump and reservoir. Yours looks really nice. Did you have to supply much for the HR engine, for them to make you one, or perhaps they already had the HR specs. Eitherway, it sounds like an awesome setup. A pump that size should really move a lot of oil. I love the shiney billet alum. The two images I linked show the GTR intake, I read up a bit, I guess GTM is almost done with their VQ35 adapter for that intake. I'm really starting to consider getting one. I guess Greddy has their own version of it for the VQ35 as well which is supposed to flow better. It's interesting. who knows if it really makes that much difference. Though, for your intake, are you concerned at all about how well it flows compared to stock? though with the turbos you're putting in it might be a moot point. I assume your CPS still on the flywheel, or you'd need a custom wheel on your pully at the front of the engine.

Does he have reciepts for the work that was done to the engine? How many miles are on the engine? $2000 sounds like a lot, I'd give him a firm offer CASH for $1250 or $1500 and let him sit on that. Even if he's a friend, it's a transaction. Needs to be completed and delivered. The engine could pull hard and sound great, but remember it's 35 years old. 2K can buy you a much newer V8 or maybe a VQ engine too. The advantage to this is it's bolt in. MS can take some tuning. If it's got all the intercooler and even the 5speed tranny included it might be a good deal for $2K but offer $1500 cash (in 20's, it looks quite impressive. in 1's you need a shopping bag)

Yay! Engine work time! I'm really looking forward to seeing how you set that up. it's already looking really cool. The intake tubes really remind me of the GTR intake. I don't know if Greddy or GTM have completed their versions for the 350/370z. If they have, then you may not have to reinvent them. The GTR intake is already designed for FI use. I know you're concerned with the manifold height, but on my HR project, I'm able to fit the stock plenum under my hood. Your dry sump pan looks amazing! I really like how they did it. I admit I don't know that much about dry sumps, but aren't you afraid of the volume difference, or the idea that the sump will pick up a lot of bubbles being that close to the crank? I don't know how much oil volume your engine will hold with that pan. I have seen aftermarket pans for the 350Z's that have wider reserviors to hold additional oil, and thus can keep the oil circulating better and cooler based on volume. though I haven't seen one it for the HR engines. Here's a couple picts of the GTR intake, perhaps that will help you with your angles.

Mikey, Looking good. but you might need to take loose those fuel lines. The stock bolster in the tranny tunnel, may need to be trimmed for the tranny to fit. You can try to fit it, and it may fit, but depending on how far back the tranny sits, it may hit that bolster. with the DE it may not be an issue, but with the HR the JK tranny has a wide back end which I had a lot of trouble fitting. so you may want to setup a test fit soon.