Pharaohabq

Nice, see thats exactly why I wanted pictures. I was thinking the whole deal mounted in the engine bay. there is some good room under the brake booster. Seeing your third pict with your headers, right there, shows that it'll probably work fine with the VQ, since my headers will be that close too. I've got big feet, I wonder if I'd be kicking the actuator motor. Now when you're driving, do you feel any lag when you steer quickly? it seems that could be an issue. Also, how well can you steer if you lose power, eg out of gas, or battery dies on the freeway(bad alt)??? Phar

NorZed, I don't know if there's a cross listing anywhere. The nice thing about the Zed's (S30) is that it's generic enough that a lot of parts will work on it with very little modification. Parts I know can be swapped are things like: Toyota 4 runner brake calipers Z31 (front) rotors S130 rear brakes with maxima brackets Door seals from various cars. engine between S30's and S130's Some seats are a direct swap (I forget the models). S2000 Mirrors S30-S130 trannies any long nose R200 (possible subaru R180LSD diff swap too) Ford taurus electric radiator fan Honda wiper motor (80's civic I think) That's all I can think of off the top of my head that can be swapped without much modification, (bolt on) Now if you could weld or fabricate brackets, there's a lot more that you could swap in as you'll see going through the 1000000's of posts on this board. If there's something that another car has that you like, then there's probably a way to put it in with some work. (btw S13/14/15 suspensions parts are possible but require modifications eg. front steer/rear steer)

installed is fine... I want to see how it'll fit next to the VQ35...

Nice, Could you post a couple pictures of the setup? it sounds pretty cool, and very easy...

Hey I was just reviewing your pictures. I really like how you moved the radiator top hose to the right side of the radiator. that looks awesome. Your steering wheel looks like what I was going to use, a 91' Z32 steering wheel, though I'm going to use the version that has the cruise control buttons because I want to setup the factory cruis which is built into the ECU. Your exhaust: I was planning on modding a Meagan Y pipe to work for mine, basically I just have to narrow it which shouldn't be too hard. Cut/flare weld. It's the modding of the downpipes that's got me a little worked up, I've for 2.5" pipe cut for an almost 90 degree bend off the collector on the HR headers. I'll then go from that 90 down through gutted cats to the Y pipe. Might delete the cats. I don't know if NM is going to require them. I think I have to comply with 08' emissions, but we'll see. From the Y pipe I'll be running 2.5" in basically the same route as the Stock 280z. To you might consider hacking up a megan y pipe, they're about 100 bucks or so on Ebay. Phar

Nice! Well I will be happy to see it finished... Food truck, what are you thinking of selling? Some friends of mine just sold their Lobster lunch wagon...

Are you going to complete it or Build it. Your other thread has me wondering...

Hey yeah, it's all here in these few threads. The Quick answers are: Yes, you need it... No you don't, but you'll need the NATS antenna ring from it if you're using stock electronics. Yes you can use it, but you'll need an external Fuel pump/ regulator to achieve the fuel pressure. Look through the threads here in the V6 area, then ask your questions. I'm happy to talk VQ's but I don't like repeating myself over and over again. Phar

Pretty cool. it looks like you're getting close. I need to get back on my project. My daughter takes up most of my spare time...

Wow Mark, that's a pretty plenum. The Cosmetic layer came out amazing. Quite Droolworthy. Did you get your wiring harness back yet?

Black soot is usually from a rich running condition. Are you using a PCV valve? if you deleted, or if the filter in the valve was gone it could allow oil to circulate back into the intake making oily soot. If you are running FI, then a bad turbo seal could to it too. Since it's on all the cylinders I would expect it's either a leak in the intake, or more likely a rich running condition which is probably nothing to worry about if the engine sounds good and isn't smoking.

Most people leave them in but I know you'll get a CEL if there's no difference after the Cats (look up 350Z cat delete/test pipe issues) A lot of people put them in a tube which moves them away from the exhaust flow. I didn't see exactly what the results were, but some people had noted the car went into Limp mode. It's hard to say what the effects of leaving it out would be. I guess you could try it and see how it behaves.

83' ZX distrib... that or write 1nonlyZ on here, he's got like 15 cars...

which one? The one on the right mounted to the Black she'f is your Fusible links. All the vehicle power runs through those. The other if I remember correctly is the valves for the AC or emissions. I'd have tou look those up again. The Fusible links are ofter cut out and replaced with Maxi-fuse holders. The LS1 swap threads should tell you what hooks up where. Go read through those a bit more, I'm sure you can find your answers in there.

I didn't think Nissan kept records of what Z came with what. In the early days, it was grab what's next on the pile and put it in. If they kept those records, I don't think they were ever put in electronic format. I know where's lsts of options for these years, but nothing that said XXXXX Vin was orange/white etc. That's one reason there were so many mid year changes.

I wrote a longer reply, but the internet ate it. I was saying, Sure I'd love to see your bracket drawings, though the availibilty of the R32 parts here in the states might be a little more difficult. I might try using Z32 calipers if not the Toyota setup. I'd really like to use Z34 Brembo's but those are a bit pricy. Your Fuel setup: Perhaps you could swap your fuel rails 180 degrees. the Injectors don't care, and you'd have your input not only on the right side, but also moved rear on the engine. It might take some bracket work though. Thanks for the reassurance on the Windshield, I've never removed one before, and this one's been in there since 78'. Not running Cats okay, well you might need to mount your downstream O2 sensor in a tube so that you won't have mixture CEL issues. Phar

R32 brakes? Do those bolt up, or do you have to use some kind of brackets? You're really coming along on your project. It's looking awesome. Is there a reason for the FPR to be mounted on the driverside? I thought the VQ35DE had a right hand fuel connection? Your headers look awesome. Are you bolting to the stock Cats, or running open pipe back? How was pulling out the windshield? I'm horribly afraid of cracking mine.

Y, I'd be worried that the JB weld would do just that effectively welding the joint as to be dangerous in a crash, the joint won't release and this press the shaft and the wheel into the driver if the crash was severe. Probably not a good thing. What I would have done is taken the joint completely out, and had it pressed to tighten the metal all aound the splined shaft. That way in a crash it could still slip, but the joint would be a lot tighter, as the slack was taken up. I hope your JB weld solution will never be tested. another (albeit more ghetto) solution could be to wrap the joint in thick rubber and clamp it down with a pair of hoseclamps. The rubber should take up the lateral play, yet allow enough slippage in a wreck for the joint to collapse. just a thought...

Ever try to get a Carfax for an S30? Last time I tried, Carfax didn't think the vin was valid, as per # of characters.

Santa, if you want to go over that list, let me know.

you're in Texas, there should be a lot of good cars North and west of there... Look around on Craigslist and see what comparables there are. look on here where to find the rust, and nice paint doesn't mean crap if it's all bondo underneath.

I probably should just leave this thread alone, but the VQ engines are almost 300hp NA stock. If I have the $ I'd go vr38, but I don't and they dont' come up often. I've said it a lot of times, but if you're going to do a swap, the the WHOLE donor car. Kits like McKenney has can make your install almost bolt on. Yeah it's not cheap, but I've seen a few VQ swaps into 240sx' for around 5K for the DE. the HR engines run closer to 8K. On the cheap and doing all the fab yourself, you could probably get away for $1000 + donor cost. but that's not including gauges, interior etc. If you have someone do it for you, you'll blow through your 10K limit easy.

Hehe, and that's how regional partshounds are created... "I'll just save this for later..."

yeah, figured... Even a lot of your bungs have already been shaved so you're going to have trouble cleaning it up much more than that. The NDIS or EDIS systems can get you basically distributorless operation and allow Coil on plug. but even then you're not gaining anything. I suppose you could reroute your fuel lines to your fuel rail and mount everything on the firewall to clean it up a little. That Turbo conversion will be fun, You'll have a few more lines but not much. It's a good time to go MS+S.

Specifically why 240z? All the S30's are very similar with only small changes. Most of the Z's you'll find are rusted in some way, very very few are pristine. People mentioned CA or AZ. Well NM and TX also have a lot of rust free cars if you're pretty far from the coast. Just look on Craigslist. I got my nearly rustfree 78' 280z for $400 here in Albuquerque. It might take a while to find one, but they are out there. There are many people here on the site, myself included in another state, that will go check out a car for you. A lot of us know what to look for, but if we say it's okay, then likely it is, but since you wouldn't be looking at it in person, it's up to you to pull the trigger. There's 100 threads on here about what to look for, and where to find rust so we're not going into that.