Pharaohabq

If you're going to continue the Spare tirewell delete, then you can fit a tank from a Mini Cooper (internally baffled and internal fuel pump) then you'll have space on both sides to run dual exhaust. (I think the cooper tank is only 11.6 gal tho)

My best advice is to do one project at a time. Get it built and running on what you've got, then upgrade more parts later. that way you can enjoy your can instead of the pie in the sky. It's worth it really from the enjoyability standpoint. So get it running on what you've got, then get the suspensions etc upgraded (I really like the AZCAR stuff, purty) A lot of projects start off with the best intentions, but often never get completed due to time and resource depletion. So take smaller steps, get it going then go on to the next step. Tho, if you do quit, I want that Diff too !! hehe

A puller is cheap (harbor freight has them) and works well for pulling the balancer. I really reccomend using one. Prying the pully or pounding on it can mess up your seals, or even bend/crack your crankshaft. it's just not worth the damage for a $10 tool. Make sure you replace the kingpin if it's at all worn. You don't want it to snap and throw off your timing possibly ruining your head. Also, it's money, but Kamari makes a tensioner that's got a bearing on it that is a worthwhile upgrade while you've got the covers off. Maybe replace the chain too if the engine is over 100K miles. oh Ford Viton (f100??) valve seals are a good idea.

Let's not let this turn into a for sale thread guys, We've got a place for that, and reasons why they only allow supporting members sell stuff. I'm certain we're walking a thin line with the mods on this one already. Yes it looks like he got his $ worth on the car. Question answered. If we want to discuss The carbs great, but lets keep the "I wants" out of the thread and in PM's. Maybe he'll support this board we all find so useful.

You'd probably be better off installing megasquirt with a MAF and TPS. The Stock system is so basic that you're not really going to gain anything by removing parts. You've already stripped out a lot by the look of it. Electric fans, fuel and oil upgrades. What is you want? More power? Modern EFI might help but won't make THAT big a difference. Look at your exhaust, Already no EGR, so already no Cat. Nothing to Delete. So getting rid of the stock AFM and going mega-squirt is about all I can see you could try, unless you want to play with internals, like a cam or something. MS can handle EDIS too if you're looking to get rid of those blue line thingies on the top.

Again, We can help you locate a car, but you're going to have to arrange to ship it home. ОпÑÑ‚ÑŒ же мы можем помочь вам найти автомобиль, но вы будете иметь организовать корабль домой

Konstantin, I hope that you will be able to find an S30 (240Z-280Z) or S130 (280ZX) project car. These cars are 35+ years old so they're becoming more rare. It is possible to find a $500US S30 here in the states, but shipping it to Russia may be difficult in that the Car's age and emmissions may not match your local regulations. You will need to look at what is required locally for older cars. Separately you will need to find out what Customs fees you will have to pay to import a car. Likely it will be less expensive to buy an S30 in one or the European countries and drive it home. Not that there are many availible, but if you found one it would likely be less expensive than importing from the US. Shipping companies here can certainly ship one, likely in a freight container, but it would need to be setup ahead of time. so I would suggest you contact companies like Maersk or companies that have experience shipping to Russia. Especially shipping Cars to Russia before you actually buy a car. We can certainly help you locate a S30 or S130 for sale, but buying and shipping it will be up to you. Other possibilities are replica S30's There's a company based in the UK that is creating fibreglass replicas of S30 bodies.

Those Bushings are mainly to prevent metal to metal contact when bottoming out a suspension side. Rarely are they ever used, but they prevent damage when an impact does occur. Pointy side goes down, but I'm not sure it would make any difference if you installed them upside down.

Oh, Go Jeep over the Miata. I love mine.. www.projectjeep.com

$350, I'd say you did okay. The engine you can get $100 for pretty easy. I want the 5speed. You might as well send in $20 paypal so you can list stuff on here. Hybridz is totally worth it. The information on here alone is easilly worth 10 times that. Those Rims are actually kinda rare if they're the ones I think they are. Lets see Suspension, Diff, Radiator. (Hows the Dash look) Console, Glass, it's all worth $$$ it's just a matter of finding the buyers. On here or on Ebay, there's plenty of people who are looking for parts. Even Seling them all cheap, I think you'll easilly double your $. The down side is that you have to take the car apart. How do the rockers look behind the rear wheel? I need a passenger side cut... Gas tank might be in good shape. A lot of parts are Specific to the 2+2, but many more are interchangeable between S30's.

So after the 2nd headgasket, you have water in #6. I'd say take a look at the gasket, and especially the block itself. you might have a crack in the block. You may need to pull off the pan and pull the piston to inspect all the way down. from what you said you've got a lot of water leaking into the oil. Aside from that, the Block itself might need planing.

Oh, Could you post a little more on that Dry Sump, it looked to be a beast!

Woot! every time I see a new Mark-post I get all happy for more S30 Pron! Lookin good mark. Those brackets are sweet. I liked the anodized blue, but hey form over fashion.

Hey Jesse, Sounds like you've got a great plan... There's a lot of cars out here in NM. I will PM you a couple names. As far as modernizing circuits, I've got a few comments there: One: Make sure you know what you want the circuit to do first. If you're running a Parallel harness, Say the BMW harness, and you want the wipers to work, Test it before installing, then install, removing the old system. Two: It might be easiest to just move the whole stock BMW harness over at once. If you did it this way, it's a bigger job, but you won't have the kludge of hacking one system, splicing each circuit as you go. Three: I'm pretty sure the S30 system works on opening and closing grounds (eg. power to wiper to switch to ground - as compared to power to switch to wiper to ground) so make sure your BMW system works the same way. because if it doesn't and you connect a positive to a ground, it could be bad.

Hey, I'll send you a PM, I don't want to clutter your thread. Thats good to know that the 350Z rad is too wide. I wish I'd had a full donor to start with, but Didn't have the $ to buy a whole one, and I got my motor cheap. I'm glad you didn't cut up a good dash for your car. the cap looks great. NATS is totally worth leaving in IMHO. I know S30's are super easy to steal. (my old 78 got taken with a flat blade screwdriver.)

Its also a good idea to flush the old fluid out of the line on your first cylinder, get all the 40 year old nasty black/brown fluid out of there. Pump till you've got nice clear fluid. that way you will know you don't have any bubbles in the line, but also that your fluid hasn't been cooked and should perform well. You should also look up Reaction Disk, in the search on here, there's a lot of threads about it and how it makes if feel like you have no brakes when it's out of position. Phar

Yeah, Mine is an HR. The wiring should really be about the same I don't forsee much if any issue with it. but your idea of testing along the way really makes sense. I will do that when I get to installing the wires. What Fuel pump are you using? A 240 was carb'd and low pressure. I imagine you're going walbrough 255, as it's pretty common. but how are you planning your lines? I'm going to use the stock 280Z lines with the FPR in the engine bay, with a small pressure/surge tank. This way I can have a larger hose from the bottom of the tank to the engine for heavier accelleration under the same pressure. Any bubbles will flow out the top through the FPR and back to the tank in the low pressure return line. The Stock diameter Fuel line to the engine is the same as the 280Z, so unless I'm going Turbo or with larger injectors it should be adequet. Changing the flow direction shouldn't be a problem depending on the design of the radiator. I doubt they've done anything exceptional in their flow design, so moving the inlet should be cake. I've been looking at different radiators to try to find one that doesn't need modification. I'd thought about having a radiator shop actually cut down a 350Z radiator, but that might not work. I was planning on using 350Z fans if they look like they'll fit. If not then the Ford fans will be used. Gauges. Yours look great. The Speedo is a little small maybe, but as you said budget and you work with what you got, you can always upgrade later. For mine, I'm going to get a little ambitious. I'm going to take the Stock 350 gauges, cut the boards and make pigtails so that I can mount the 350Z gauges in the 280Z cups. Yeah I know it's going to be a pain, but I've looked at them and read enough that it shouldn't be a problem. Doing so will allow me to keep the 350Z info pod in place of the 280z clock pod. I'm planning on using a lot of the 350Z internal systems like Cruise and tire pressure. Assuming I don't run into major issues or too much difficulty in swapping in systems. My biggest issue I haven't solved so far is the front wheel position detection, though I'm probably not going to try to use VDC since that would involve adding antilock braking, which could be dangerous until I know the systems a lot better. Crazy I know. So I'm sticking with the easier systems, pulling Speedo signal off the 350Z rear diff. and so on... That Dash you have looks great, too bad it's cut up for the cage. Was it just capped? Phar

Hey Nice Job. Looks like you did a great deal of work in a very short amount of time. I see you'd mounted most of the VQ electronics on the center dash tranny tunnel. That should work. The Fusebox in the center is handy. Really it looks pretty good to me. The Stock Y pipe would probably have taken too much modification to make it fit I guess. That was my plan, but after seeing your headers, I'm really liking them. I like your liberal use of Por15. I'm planning on following suit. It should undercoat my car more than adequetly since all I have in NM is Heat. Oh you didn't notate any of your cooling solutions, Are you piping in the stock radiator? Your Brake line across the steering crossmember may not be the best location. If you hit something and jar the motor, or lose a belt I could see it tearing that line loose which could compromise your front brakes. I understand you may not want to move it, but just keep it in mind. The whole thing looks great as a race car. You did a good job with each step. I'd like a more detailed description of your electronics experience, since you'd said it was a bear. You pulled out all the unnecessary circuits. It looks like you left the basics, Key/Nats ant, IPDM, ECU/BCU, pedal and fusebox. I didn't see the AC AMP, I'm sure that's because you're using aftermarket gauges. What was the hardest part? I'm looking forward to reading more.

yeah, probably will work, just remember you're going to put in some isolators in there too so keep that in mind when you're building the mounts. The Ebay isolators and the poly mounts are both about an inch thick.

Yup! 11/70 same age as me

Oh yeah, No inner fenders.. duh! that certainly makes a difference. Amazing work Mark, Keep it up, I can't wait to see more pictures!

Looks pretty cool. 7 grand? I need to sell my 240z...

looks really nice, How's your hood clearance? In that position will you have room to be able to pull out an ignition coil if you need to replace a plug? with the Irridium you shouldn't often have to but I don't know how well it'll run w/ the turbos. It's looking awesome though. Will the intake tubes before the TB's come up straight from the Turbos? With the depicted width I'm not sure of the angles and clearance for your belts / turbos at the front of the engine.

Hmm Magic number for the hood, That's a good one. My pan hangs below my cross member from the bottom by about 1 inch. The stock mounts line up with the bottom to middle of the frame rails. I have good hood clearance, I may be able to raise them by an inch on the HR engine and still clear the hood. My engine is out, or I'd give you better numbers. I'm getting her ready to be painted. Oh and Zman, let me know if you have any questions on those..

Lucky Ducky... GAVE it to you! that's pretty awesome. Free cars are always nice. He's probably going to regret it and miss it. so be sure you get the title transferred. Sounds like you're on the right track with the harness. Keep it up and let us know if you get stuck. More pictures please!