Pharaohabq

Getting a lot closer to affording the paint. Hopefully, won't hurt too bad. Still looking for a trailer. Might just build one, if I can't borrow one.

Hey I've worked on custom mounts, you might realy consider the Mckinney kit, since it is known to work,and has clearance for the steering shaft. Those headers are nice, Same as mine for an HR engine, though it's a shame since if they fit your De, you'll still have to cut them and put in a 90 deg bend to clear the firewall. Check out my thread in this forum, you'll see a lot of my experience. Austin's build is really good to follow, but it's good that you're also working on your own. If you have questions, let me know since Austin is hardly ever on anymore. (think he sold his car) But either way, keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Could be your valve seals. Under load, you could be sucking oil into the cylinders and causing a little burnt smell. There's some Viton seals, (I forget the brand, ford or something, that fit and work will with unleaded gas, compared to the old Black style.) just search on here and you should find them. Might be the case. That head gasket should be fine. Yeah check the bolts, if not those, then check the U joints, especially if you hear a clunk between forward and reverse. The U joints ARE replaceable, I've done it. it's just a Pain in the asterisk.

Okay, All that aside. If you really want to extend that rear quarter, perhaps you could cut and fab in a set of windows from a 2+2 into your S30. The windows as you can see in Challenger's pict above, is roughly 2 inches longer, and already follows the body lines. If you cut and tacked them in, you might get a look similar to what you're seeing in the design review. You'll also have windows that actually open back there, which is really nice if your care is still sucking in exhaust fumes from the hatch area. It definitely helps the airflow with the windows down too. Now the actual process for swapping these windows would need to be studied, since I don't know how similar the "b" pillar area below the window is between the two models. For the donor, I'd cut at least 3-5 inches of metal around each window to give you room to work and meld the two bodies. Modding in a ZX Window might work too, but structurally the two are going to be different. I don't know how much you can cut without losing body rigidity. Other possibilities are perhaps Modding an RX7 or RX8 rear quarter on to a S30. It might look pretty funky, but with a good plan and real body expertise you might make something really unique. If you haven't done any bodywork, I'm not certain you should choose this as your first project. Phar

I could print out a mounting cup adapter on my 3D printer if you had measurements of the old clock, and the new gauge.

Sounds to me like something's not wired right with the field wire on the Alt. When you swap in the ZX Alt, I think there's supposed to be a diode added. Right off I don't remember if it's to the field wire, or another, but I remember having to put one in on mine.

Myron, read in the brakes section, This is still a Sticky in there. Silvermine's kit is pretty much the standard setup that's been hashed out. the Toyota Calipers (I think it was from a mid 80's pathfinder) and 84 300zx rotors. The difference between the 240 and the 280, I think, was the thickness of the spacer plates. With brake hardware from Autozone or other local parts shop, you should be able to put it together for around $250, Cheaper if you hit the JY for cheap cores (besure to check prices first) The advantage to the silvermine kit is that it's all there, comes in the box and you know it's all set to fit. But if you DIY you can still save maybe a franklin or two. Be aware that the toyota calipers don't fit well in some 14" stock rims.

Looks kinda funky to me, but hey it's your car... but yeah, it looks like it's roughly the same height as the base of the rear hatch. if your fuel cell fit in the tirewell and didn't come up higher than the latch, I'd guess you'd be fine. Unless that Pantera hatch has any supports underneath.

Yeah, 1NonlyZ should be able to hook you up. There's still a lot of old Z's here in NM, though the yards aren't keeping them, so parts with become even more scarce.

Sounds like a dirty fuel filter to me, Try swapping that out first and see what it does. it's pretty common for these cars to get some crud in the tank, especially if they sat a while. You start driving, the gas scours some loose, it gets sucked into the fuel lines and clogs the filter. perfomance is reduced anytime you're trying to pull more gas through (such as steeping on the pedal)but it's able to pull enough through to idle and even drive slowly. Start with the filter, then if that fixes it for now, then you may need to drop your tank and get it boiled (any radiator shop should be able to do that) or just buy a bunch of extra filters and replace them every so often. *edit* I supposed it cold also be a hole in your pickup line before the pump allowing it to suck in air bubbles, if you have the same issue AFTER changing the filter, then I'd check that too.

Hey Colin G, Any Updates?

Nicely Done, I'm in the middle of a vq35HR swap. I'm planning on using the factory gauges so I'm keeping the ACAmp and BCU. I'm swapping in the 350z shortnosed R200 for the sensors for the speedo. It looks like you used round pipe to bolster the steering crossmember. I'm Curious as to how you modified the stock headers? Did you just cut and weld on a 90 degree down pipe?

Nice, yeah that transition is really much nicer. Are yougoing to recast it then, recreating the airdam, or how if it going to fit together? I know you're planning on repainting everything so blending to the CF shouldn't be a a big deal, but integrating with the airdam, I'm thinking may be problematic.

All in Storage eh? Well I hope you get back to it this summer. You know out of sight is out of mind... Of course, mine sits in the garage taunting me every time I look out there.

These should be added to the Z registry... It would be fun to see them listed anyway.

Interresting picts... you might inquire as to whole car price on the Z and maybe the 810, you will pay 3 times more if you are just buying parts, for ther same parts. Some lots will just sell the whole deal if they can turn it over, especially on older cars. you can then get the parts you need for here and (Ebay) and junk the rest of the shell. it's no fun seeing one die, but if it's been caved on the passenger side like you said, then it's best to recycle what you can and put it out of it's misery.

Perhaps don't blend so high up the fender flare? I don't know, this certainly isn't my area of expertise. What you have is looking good, though the wheel arch radius is no longer smooth. I'm sure that's easy to fix in your CF overlay, but in my experience, Less is more. Less fill = smoother lines. You've already done so much more than I'd know how to so I'll just leave this as, Keep it up mark! it's looking awesome! I can't wait to see how you do your wiring. Phar

oop! that's right, Somehow I was thinking brakes, not clutch. helps if I rtfa huh... Sorry.

I was going to mention, you might search on here for Reaction Disk. That's caused a ton of similar issues.

I own #5362. I love the low Vin. I would love to have # 00060. It's not really that the car is inately built better or worse than any of the other 240z's it's just that it's the newest of the new at the time, which now makes it the oldest of the old. Both play to the desirability of the cars. If #00060 is in decent shape, then I'd say buy it, Restore it and enjoy it. But as always on here, hybridz, it'll be YOUR car. Cut it into paperclips if that's what you want to do. We would be sad to see it go, but as an early Vin# it's value is in it's condition more than anything. So if it's rusted to hell and will cost $1000's to restore to anything, then you might as well pass on it and buy something solid to build on. Restoration is where you'd se it's value. It's happy and noteworthy, since so few of the originals are surviving, but really it's just a number, just like your own age. You're a good model for your age, but your dad was too, just because he's older doesn't mean he was better built. he's probably a great guy, and just as he was when he was a kid too. Same thing for the car, it's an earlier model, but there's nothing really that says its any better just because it's older. I'm sure it's a great car to last this long. But is it any better than a late 240z or a 260z or a 280z? No, it's condition. Your dad like the car may be in great buff shape, and so women would still be attracted to him. If he's old out of shape and wrinkled?, well the ladies may not be so attracted. Same deal with the car, condition is everything. Fixed up, just like your dad working out and eating right, could make the car more attractive. But if you're looking for something to modify, and not restore, you might consider something else, since there are a lot of people who would be interrested in just restoring the car to it's original condition. Noteworthy only adds a little value. The low vin# only makes it noteworthy, the condition is mainly what adds (retains)value. I wouldn't pay more than say a couple hundred for that noteworthyness, but if it's in amazing condition, that low vin noteworthyness could add $1000's to the price. #00060 fully restored I'm sure could command top dollar. whereas my #005632 fully restored will never be top tier, maybe one step lower since mines a Series 1, but still a higher # Vin. But that's marketing to collectors. I specifically bought mine for it's build date, it shares my same birthday. November 1970. So I'm plenty happy with it. Do you see my points? Restored Condition is most of the value, the low Vin# only adds noteworthyness, which in top shape will add a lot to the value, but in poor to average condition, the low vin doesn't add much at all to the value of the car.

That looks like a pretty cool mod. I'm not a fan of the handles in the show, but some others might look pretty good on a Datsun. like you said, the 300ZX(Z32) handles could probably work. A could words of caution in changing out handles though: 1. Clearance, as they mentioned you need to be certain the new handles will clear the window and inner assy. 2. Find A handle that's similar in design to what you're replacing. A little bit off may work but add up to a lot of binding as it wears. 3. Security. A lot of the newer handles have the problem that there's nothing behind them, Thieves just pop out the plastic handle w/ a screwdriver and reach in to open the door. #3 could be handled in a few ways, but if you're going so far as to fab these handles into the S30, you might also fab a cup to hold the handle. that way when they pry it out, there's metal behind it, and they can't easilly just reach in. I would certainly like to see this mod on a S30, I might do it myself, if I can find a Set of Z32 doors to cut up. I'm already using the mirrors from a S2000, and the engine from a 350Z, What's another mod along the way?

Zounds like a heat problem to me too. another test is to grab some foil and wrap your fuel lines. if it's too hot then that should temporarilly prevent it. If it's actually boiling the bottom of your carbs then your temp gauge should be high or broken. Do you have the air cleaner on there? Could be dirty carbs too. I remember sucking a leaf into my engine in my old 260z in HS, ran like crap till it burned and blew the crud through the engine. but yours will idle so that's maybe a clue on fuel flow. maybe get a 2nd filter that you can see through and put it in yout engine compartment. Watch it and see if it empties out (Bubbles?). Could possibly have a air leak in the tank pickup. Just because the take looks nice on the outside doesn't mean it's not full of crud on the inside.

Haha! I love that LMGTFY.com!

Yeah What tthodhunter said... It's the Turn signal switch on the column. There's a writeup on here somewhere about rebuilding your switch. it's really not that tough if you're handy. Basically, there's some metal tabs that the bearings slide on that bend over time and lose connection. At least that's what I remember from the 280Z multi switch. I can't imagine the 240Z switch should be that different. Pull it off and open it up and it shouldn't be too hard to figure out. As Ttod said, the manual could really help too. The fact that your hazards work means that the wiring from the blinker module to the lights should be all fine. So really it's got to be the multi switch. Just becareful tho, 40year old plastic may be weak. Phar

WOW!, Let us know how it fits in there Big foot... I've been using the dead padal out of a 350Z. it's not so big, and I had to build a custon bracket but it works.