Pharaohabq

Another option to help with the fumes, kind of spoils the look, but if you use a downturned tip it helps blow them away, but most often I've found it to be the taillight seals.

Really a car is worth what someone will pay for it. is people are buying $3000 cars for $6000 then they're worth 6K. to them... It's those who are lucky that can find decent cars for $3000 or less, My 280Z was only $600, no real rust, parked for 20+ years. My 240Z also parked for 20 years is a rust bucket, and I paid $900. It's going to need a lot more work, but it's worth it to me. Bodywork, yes it scares me to weld on panels, but, that's why I have the car, to learn and do it myself. otherwise I'd have paid for one that didn't need the work and was more expensive. If you're afraid to take a short flight to go see a car you're going to drop thousands on, then you're better off paying a lot more for something local. Read read read, and DL the FSM on these cars. You'll need it for the swap. Those links at the start of this thread should be 90% of what you need to know. in the end though, this is your CAR and your WALLET, so the choice is yours. Though, it's a shame to chop up a pristine example for a engine swap, but again your car, we'll advise you however you want. you should read a lot more about the swap and what options you have before putting one in. that's not a real common swap, but it's been done, so try to find the thread on here. check if McKinney already has a kit for it too. Phar

I'm happy to make these Horn inserts, but if you guys have any ideas for more parts that we can't find anymore that should be recreated, please let me know. this also goes for parts that were not well designed from the start, I'd be happy to help work on refiguring any of it.

You might check the plug where the hazard light pigtail plugs into the harness. I've seen bad connections on that switch cause this similar situation. All the blinkers and hazard lights run through the switch. I was going to tell you about using a bulb rather than fuses, but you'd found that first. Check the plug, then test the hazard switch itself.

It's not always the best way to fix it, but you can also braze the crack shut with a torch and some solder. remove the cap, heat the whole cap as it's cast, and braze in aluminum rod using lots of flux. Aluminum doesn't rust exactly, it tarnishes with a thin film of aluminum oxide. Then you'll likely need to chase the threads. Install with a new gasket and it will likely hold just fine. Your local welding shop should have some rod to fix it yourself, or you can have it welded. It's not that hard.

Well it can't be that then

I'd love to see these recreated in Gorrilla Glass or Pyrex Glass. It would be really expensive and require Stainless molds to be made, but the end product would never fog up, and would be bonded to the headlight buckets with the same adhesive that modern cars use, so they wouldn't leak from the front. the ring would need to be redesigned and stuck in with the same adhesive to cover the gap. The rear would have to be remade with a special seal and cap. Likely with Projector lenses. Cost would likely be >$1000 a pair depending on volume of course. I don't have the resources, but I had looked into ceramic molds, but the failure rate is way too high when slumping Pyrex between two plates, that's why Stainless.

Sounds to me like the fuel pump is getting clogged up. I'd pull the pump off and take a look in the nozzles. Maybe bench test it with a battery/trickle charger. I bet it's not running. It's either that or the AFM switch is buggy. but test the pump since that's what's not working. You should have a filter between the pump and the fuel tank. that might also be gunked up.

Nice, I used to have a really nice GSLE with the 13b in it. I really loved that car, but got an offer I couldn't resist. It was always about even with the Miatas I'd ever gone up against. Now what you might consider is a 3 rotor. What is that, the 20b? engine?... You're adding about 30 lbs and can run the same turbo, yet you'll squeeze a lot more HP out if it, and it'll all still fit behind the front crossmember. I didn't know you were a Rotary guy too... You've added even more cool points in my book. Did they ever work out the apex seals issues? I've been out of RX's for near 15 years now.

Hey Jesse, This is looking awesome! I really love seeing these builds where people actually have time to get stuff done. Keep that plan going because it's easy to lose sight of where you want to be. I'm so glad you're still keeping the Z. Are you going with a different Engine this year? Keep it up and I'm glad you didn't fall through the floorboards Oh and let me know if you need any parts 3D printed. Phar (Eric)

just an FYI... If you disconnect the battery, it'll turn this off and you'll be fine till it happens again.. 2 times in 2 years isn't so bad, vs paying 50 bucks for a new relay.

That's a great Idea... I'll look into making those. Need someone to want to buy one tho..

I use PTC Creo elements for most of my design work. I find it really easy to use, though the sharing in the free version sucks pretty bad.

Sorry Guys, I've been MIA doing the family thing. Sure I can make these parts. I'm not sure why you couldn't message me. I'll pm you all.

still tuned... No updates? Maybe the house is taking too much time.. I can't complain, I haven't done much on my Swap either, Steering issues are a pain, but I've got the 350z column in, but the tilt is still remaining to be figured.

A VQ swap can be done Cheaper, AND you get to put in the 6 speed tranny too. Stock will get you in the 270HP range.

Great job! it's awesome to see more VQ's in S30's!

Note that we found the hazard lights are fully run through the hazard switch, if it goes bad, then your blinkers and or your hazards will not work correctly.

Ebay maybe? Check with your local Z club. $75 for shipping isn't so bad considering you'd get a new part.

I'd have a body shop put it on their frame machine and see how bad it really is. that would guide you to know how next to approach the issue. $700 isn't a bad price, the parts are worth more than that.

Your cold start injector could be leaking too, to cause a rich condition. There's a few possibilities. Can you describe how it's running? is there any surging? you said it flagged on timing, That could certainly cause rich running. get a light and time it according to the FSM. I think it was something like 10 deg BTDC, but you would need to look it up.

Cutoff wheels will work, but on curves they don't work so well, but they are a lot faster than a sawsall. I want to put a 240/260 wheelwell in my 280Z so I can store a full size spare.

I'd say go for Stock since you're new to the Z world. Find your local Z car club and go see a lot of Z's before you start making decisions. Understand that it's NOT a cheap endeavor. Your value in the car right now is the low miles and relatively unmolested condition. If you can restore it then do so, and stick minor mods, bushings, ECU/EFI upgrade because those are easily reversed and won't detract from the Value. The car has two followings, the collectors and the modders. The Collectors want the car for it's inate beauty and appreciate it for it's stock condition. The modders want the car as was said "for a blank canvass" Either way stock is going to have a LOT more value in the long run than something someone would have to reverse or figure out what you hacked up before they start their own mods. It's not a series one, so you're not going to gain much value on the VIN, Condition counts for MUCH more than a number unless you had a sub 100 Vin. Since you're going to need to fix that gaping hole in the roof and a little rust, you should consider stripping the exterior and having it sand blasted. That'll give you a nice surface to work from, and it makes putting the paint back on MUCH EASIER. if you to the interior at the same time, you save a step, but make more work since you'd tear it down. safety: look up the thread a year or so back called "making a Z safer" we discussed a lot of the ideas on S30 safety and whys on not to do a lot of things. The gist of which is that the S30 was ahead of it's time, but replacing existing stock seatbelts and mechanically making sure your car is in good shape were the best thing you can do, aside from paying attention while driving. Using foam to bolster the doors to limit body acceleration was next. Most everything else detracted from the stock safety. in the end it's your car, you do what you want, we are just here to advise.

Xringx, I'd say go look at and drive the 2+2 then go drive the coupe. I think you'll like the coupe much better, but if you have reason for a back seat then take the 2+2. Parts are actually pretty easy to find for both cars, but the 2+2 does have some model specific parts. don't let it discourage you though, they're not really wear parts. I think the coupe handles a lot better than the 2+2. But you're thinking LS so either car will be a beast. I've owned multiples of both body types and really it's the look that is a little odd on the 2+2. Just something that doesn't quite match the curves. So it basically boils down to personal preference. so go drive both and see what you think. The seat folds down in the 2+2 so you have a little more cargo area. but it's a Z, so don't expect to fit much. The rear seat is really only good for really little people or one person sitting sideways. I'm 6'5" and I fit in both models with the seat all the way back. The 2+2 has about 1" more space, but you get used to it either way. (Maybe I'm a contortionist, I also used to drive Gen 1 Rx-7's) I want to adapt the openable rear window clamps to a coupe, but drilling the glass is going to be fun. I like the upper door handles too, but that's not really worth the work to move to a coupe. I think the doors may be the same size, but I'd have to measure to know. The windshield glass is interchangeable. I've had to replace and put a 2+2 windshield on a coupe., uhm what else. They covered most of the other differences like the clutch. I know in some newer Z's like the Z32, the diff has a lower ratio in the 2+2's but I don't know about the S30's on that.

There's a lot of shops out there, most make their $$ on modern cars that are mostly plug n play parts swaps. They might know a little about paint, but most aren't very impressive. You want to find a shop that not only does sheet metal work, and who's been around a long time, but one who'll stand behind their work into the future. Knowing Datsuns is a big bonus. So just like with your car itself, you need to do your homework and find out all you can about your car and the shop, otherwise you're asking to get taken.