Pharaohabq

I'd recommend the $1000 78' 280z. if it's low rust and mint interior (green? haha! just kidding). the 78' should handle the torque on the V8 and it's easy to get parts still. Starting with as complete as you can is a big deal since you can easlly spend $1000 restoring a car to 1/2 way decent. Getting it running shouldn't be a big deal, since there's not a lot that goes wrong with these. Though an AFM or thermotime can ruin your day if you lose one. But swappign to megasquirt ould solve all that anyway. If you get this one, $10 bucks says it's corroded injector wires. Clean/replace those and I bet it runs. All your options sound doable. it's a matter of which you like best. Do your homework tho. Pretty much that's my 2 cents. let us know when you make your choice & post picts. .

the price is right if you like them. You might check Ebay and places like that for similar, but I don't think those are that common anylow. too bad they're only 14". 16 or 17 would look so much nicer, but like I said if YOU like them then get them especially if you're getting a good price too. Phar

Hmm Wait so are you saying that the early 260Z's w/ the thin bumpers use shocks to mount like the 280z?? I though they mounted just like the 240z w/ brackets. I know the later 260Z's used the shocks like the 280Z, but only with the fat bumpers.. Perhaps I should be trying to source some 260z bumper shocks to mount my 240z bumpers on my 280z.. interresting... Thanks Phar

Pm sent !!!

I understand there being a lot of confusion. It depends a lot on your 260z. most 260's came with the thin 240z ish bumpers. but some late late 260's had the 75' 280z thicker bumpers on it. It's really what kind it had. So look at your VIN and see if yours is an early or late. the easiest way to tell is if your Z has those shock absorber bumper mounts. if it does then you can use the 75'76' 280z bumpers, if not, and you just have brackets or nothing at all, then likely you can use 70'-74' 240/260z bumpers. The Thing to remember about these cars is it doesn't matter what you put on them it's what YOU like, so if you like the thin ones use those, if you want thick heavy bumpers use those. you can work out how to mount them later. Same for wheels or engines or giant wings, if YOU like it, go for it, it's your car. Now if you're fixing for a concours show, then you've got a lot more work to do... Phar

Yeah, Read that thread, it's interresting... Look into Antique/Modified insurance, it might soften the blow on the cost of insurance for you. You'll still need liability insurance at the very least. Congrats on getting your car. These Z's are like Redheaded women, you get them happy and everything is going along fine, then just out of the blue for no apparent reason they get pissed and stop working. Then you do something that seems totally unrelated and then everything is happy again... Those Dents.. Well they suck, but you might be able to tap them out with a 1" wooden dowel, rounded off on one end and a hammer. you then just had a friend hold a 2x4 block on the outside, and you tap the rounded off end into the dent from the backside, and you'll get it close enough. Then sand it off a bit, tap it back straight at you can, then break out the bondo, smooth it out in THIN coats letting it dry in between, then sand and primer and it'll be like it was never there. I'd sand and primer any spots that you've got rust starting. Rust is evil, and it travels under your paint, so sand the paint back a couple inches so you can be sure you're covered. Note that Z's are Not as safe as modern cars so really pay attention when it comes to defensive driving. That's probably the main reason your dad isn't happy about the Z. You need to show him you'll be responsible with the car, and about what good condition the car is in, then maybe he'll start warming up to it. Especially if you get him to drive it hehe You might vacuum it out tho, first impressions and all. not to mention a good cleaning might make it run better Phar P.s: Check your Brake Fluid, it looks low in the picts...

Wow, yeah, Bad news. I've been in a similar situation, only *I* was the one with the insurance. and no wasn't my fault. Fortunately my insurance has Uninsured so I was covered Sans the $300 deductible, bastards... Anyway as I see it... GO TALK TO A LAWYER, this is going to cost you, how much is the question. Being that you're 18 and not at home I would assume, then you're parents are likely safe, but you're not. They're going to try to say it was your fault. You need to Go make a Police Report, and ask to get a copy of the Officer's report too. It's VERY important that you file your report BEFORE the other party did. It's been long enough that this all should have been done. You need to be VERY SPECIFIC about what you were doing when they hit you. Were you driving straight and they entered your lane? Right of way plays a part here. I'm hoping for the best for you, but there's a lot of factors that we don't know here. Warning rant ahead: As for INSURANCE... Go get it! Our Z's are all over 19 years old, so we can ALL carry Antique/Modified insurance on our cars. even if they're POS cars. it's seriously a lot cheaper than regular insurance, and there's some rules, but most of that can be delt with such as mileage. if you go over, you just have them cancel and rewrite your policy. It also protects your car from being totalled for $300 worth of paint damage, since it puts you in the category with all the restored Z's. Liability Ins is still going to be expensive since you're 18, M and not at home. Insurance sucks that way, our ins cost would be 1/2 as much if we were girls. how stupid is that? anyway, I agree you SHOULD NOT be driving at all w/o liability ins. Farmers just raised everyone accross the board 20% (me included, insurance bastards) because of the hurricane victims in ANOTHER STATE. so yes You're raising rates not only on yourself, but for everyone! I'll stop ranting now... But Seriously let us know how this works out, I like to see liars get it where they deserve it. Phar

Looks good! Sounds nice too. I'm impressed, but that's not so hard to do with me I like that bottle trick on the Radiator Fill nozzle, I wonder if that'll work for the VQ35 engines. Phar

Well someone paid $3K for it. that's a lot but hey, half the work is done. I'm not sure why they routed the intake behind the radiator like that but maybe there's a reason. perhaps we can get them to post here about their adventures with that car. Phar

Considering it would cost 600-800 to ship a car to the east coast. you should be looking out here in the SW, on craigs or Ebay. it's much cheaper than buying one out there. if you bought one here for say $1000 w/ no rust or very little, then ship it there, that's still half the price of one out on the east coast and better condition. For the money, people will take all the picts you want. Phar

Nice, that's definitely good to know.

Yeah, I'd be very interested in what it takes to install Miata rear end in, and what a miata rear end can stand up to. It's not going to be a bolt in swap is it?

ahh, so I see. an Icon in racing history... makes sense now.

I figured, that and the vintage 74' plate said as much, I was much more asking what VIN it was. Phar

it's much easier to get a 280Z manifold and set it up for Megasquirt.

very cool, that's exactly what I was thinking... So What Z was this that got toasted?

Yeah exactly what I was thinking, that the front of the engine looks like it's moved left, if that's the case I would expect busted engine mount or much worse, busted tranny mount. In anycase not good, no fun... So again, what was the VIN? I should put a registry up somewhere to show what state particular VINs are located and maybe a status. This was we could concievably say how many S30's are remaining... Phar

Okay, So here's a little update. I pumped a bunch of greas into the crank shaft where the pilot bearing is and used a 14 MM long socket with a bolt in it to seal up the hole. then tapping the socket with a 2x4, the old pilot bearing just poped right out, easy peasy. I was amazed... I Bought a used 07 clutch/flywheel/PP off My350z.com for Cheap, I figure I can't really beat that price, tho I had to buy mounting bolts from Nissan to put it together which weren't cheap. (they are (9) T50 hardened torx bolts to fit the flywheel $6 ea, $3 ea w/ ABQZ.com discount) Next I get to connect the tranny. Eric Pharaohabq

So pardon my ignorance, but what's so good about the Bob Sharp stuff?

Awe man, that's harsh, Seeing the engine at that angle, I would not be suprised if you had a bit of damage behind the firewall. Hopefully you had good antique car insurance. I'm glad you weren't hurt. So, what was your VIN, I can tell it was and early Z, but I'd assume 74' due to the plate. If you part it, I might be interrested in that steering wheel. maybe seats...

you gonna make it to leave on your trip in time?

yeah sounds to me like your driveline is out of balance. the out of gear at 60 part says to me it could be your clutch plate may be loose. do you have any clutch problems, or does that seem fine? Really you need to check your driveshafts, that and balance on the tires. If you loose one of the 3 shafts at speed, it night not be pretty.

got a spare themotime to try? it's possible it may not be working. You may bypass it, but you'd have to wire a resistor in place.

someplace with an oven to heat the manifold in...

Or you could talk to Derek and put another hat in the rind for him to produce his Horns EFI setup. it's awsome and kicks all that stuff's ass in looks. Runs off Megasquirt. Phar