SHO-Z

I have been in the process of my forced induction carbed project. You really do not want to use forced induction on a high compression engine. The more fuel and air you get into the cylinder each stroke the more power. On blow through carbs you have to jet for more air so without the supercharger running you will be to rich, fuel injection would run better. You could run a wet supercharger without an intercooler, but the Eaton’s Teflon coating on the supercharger rotors will be removed by the gas. There are some TR6 guys running a single Jag SU on this setup and from there web pages have not had any problems. I have a M62 supercharger off of a SLK Mercedes and it comes with a clutch installed from the factory. I have a set of triple SK Racing 45 MM and intercooler. From my research DCOE weber type carbs can be run without boxing. Here is a lot of information out there for you look at.

Use the 327 block and put a 283 crank and build a 302 like the 60s Z28 had in them. High rever and lots of power. The only problem is they are expensive to build, piston cost.

If I had a real clean Z I would go with a Metalic or Pear White. Clean and Elegant

It seams like all of the shows, American Hot Rod, Overhauling, American Chopper & Monster Garage would make a great safety video on how not to do the job safely. Almost no one wears safety glasses, welding hoods, gloves, no guards on grinders, respirators and such. We have talked about using them as a safety meeting for the construction firm I work for to see how many unsafe acts we can find! I would like to see the bosses start yelling at everyone to follow the safety rules.

Check out this SHO Healey conversion http://members.cox.net/rdgrauman/Healey.html If you want it I have a wiring spread sheet on the SHO and a factory manual on the SHO engine. Will sell the book for $10 if you want it. I can scan the wiring diagram and send it to you.

The SHO engine will barely fit in a Z engine compartment. It is very tall. I went through the prelimary of installing one until the wrecking yard backed out on getting me a T-5 and gave all of my money back. I figured less that 3" of ground clearance under the pan. It will fit also it is almost as long as a V8 with the water inlet coming out of the back of the block. I would have loved to finish the project. I do have lots of information if anyone is interested.

Go for it. If you estimate the price to get everything done by someone else, for about the same price you can buy all of the tools, welder, and grinders and such that you need needed to do the project. Go to your local wrecking yard and see if you can find a fender to reduce the body work required. Do not use "BONDO" there are a lot of new body fillers out there that work better and will not crack. Do a search and you will come up with all the info you need. I build my 260 convertible with using a Mig welder electric DA sander small electric grinder electric sawsall compressor & spray gun 2x6 with rubber pad in lieu of a long board sander. Small propane torche for soldering all of the small trim holes. Take your time and enjoy the project.

Very sorry for your loss. My wife has type 2 diabetes and is going through a flare up on her high sugar level over the last few days for no reason. She has scared me more than once with crashing sugar levels. I hope everyone heeds your warning about this condition.

Check this artical out on removing paint. http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=res20020901ps&cccid=5&scccid=2

I would start by checking the fuel filter to see if it was plugged up and then the fuel pump.

I am in the middle of a supercharged forced induction on tripple SK Racing 45mm carbs headers with 2-1/2" exhaust. From the research that I have done with 10 PSI of boost I should get around 250 hp at the crank on a stock L28. I am using a eaton M60 supercharger with intercooler. The carbs are still sitting on the shelf next to the supercharger, so I have a ways to go on the project. If I blow it up I guess I will have a "V8" instead!

I have one of the Weber books and it is informative. Check out this web site for some good information on DCOE Webers. There is a lot of good information out there for free. http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/dcoeinfopages.htm

With all of the information on Webers on the internet I would do a search and down load the weber manual and other information on the carbs. You can find complete cut sheets and everything you wanted an evan didn't want to know about Webers.

You need to figure how thick your concrete slab then use about 3/4" shorter bolts. Use the hiltis that you drive in and you tighten the nut to secure. They are cone shaped on the non threaded end. Try to keep away from drilling right next to your existing post location keep about 3" away minimum. These will not pull out, the concrete would have to break out around them to fail.

Get some steel plate and some concrete 3/8" Hilti Bolts, you can rent a drill from a rental place. Cover the post holes with plate and attach with the Hilti Bolts. Get some square steel tubing to replace the posts above the ground and weld to the plate. You can weld attachments to the posts to attach the fence and gate. This is a standard way to attach supports on concrete. This would be my solution to your problem. Have fun.

This is an information web site and I for one appreciate any new information and where to get it. Seeing the supercharged Z video gives me more motivation to get my supercharger project completed. My supercharger has been sitting on the shelf for over a year now, while I have been messing with body work and paint. Keep the information coming!

I have seen a post on water cutting windshields you might look. Also I built a convertible 260z. I would reinforce the chassi before doing any cutting, the top adds a lot of stiffness to the car and it will flex after you cut it unless you support the car in more than just 4 places.

And Back in the late 60s in Calif. there was a little BMW 700 would eat the Turbo Corvairs alive in road racing. I saw this BMW 700 with a BMW factory sidecar motorcycle 1000 cc two cylinder engine not only beat the heck out of the Turbo Corvairs but also Micky Tompsons 289 Falcon and every other sedan out there and he started with the small sedans in the back of the field! But what does this have to do with Triple Carbs? The BMW had Motor Cycle Carbs simular to SUs, if I remember right there were large Delortos.

When a fluid is pumped the fluid temperature will rise due to the work of the pump. Also most FI pumps are also cooled by the gas. On a hot day there is probably more heat added to the gas from the time it leaves the fuel tank until it reaches the engine compartment. The reason Datsun insulates the fuel lines in the engine compartment is to stop vapor locking by minimizing the heat transfer between the hot engine compartment and the fuel line. The higher the fuel pressure the higher the temperature required to vapor lock the system. Penske back in the 60s on the Trans Am series Camaros would pack there gas cans in dry ice to get more fuel into the tank. I did a quick look at the cooling effect of gasoline, for dry air there is a 42°F drop in air temp due to the latent heat of evaporation at 14 to 1 air fuel ratio. When humidity is brought in it is closer to the high 20s.

One option is to pick up a triple weber carb intake manifold. I have seen them on ebay now and then. Use some 3†aluminum tube stock for the plenum. Fabricate your injector holders to bolt between the intake runners and the plenum.

Check out this web link. http://zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html It should answer most of your questions.

I found this information of the 280zx distributor and rebuilding one. It is a good read. http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html

I did not know that the ZX distributor has both vacuum and mechanical advance. This could solve my ignition set-up on my supercharger project. Thanks for the info jmortensen.

I have used Solarflux on SS piping. It is not near as nice as purging but can stop sugaring of the SS pipe on the inside. I welded using this procedure on drain lines on a Budweiser Brewery in CO. From what we learned, mix with water instead of alcohol. Mixing it with water the flux had less tendency to flake off of the wall. Solarflux is not for open butt welding, it is for fusion welding and forms a glass slag cover on the weld. This slag can and will flake off over time. On these welds I always walked the cup, and watched the silicon swirl to know that I had 100% penetration.

Thats 15 years of training that she does not want to give to another woman!