SHO-Z

I lived in Denver for years and had both a 240 and 280. The 240 would run on regular gas in Denver and needed premium in Houston but that was in 1977. All Zs are a handful on snow and ice the IRS makes the rear want to wonder around and will spin out if you do not pay attention. Eastern Colorado has 320 day of sun shine a year so it is not constant snow. You will be in school living close to campus and have a bunch of friends to get a ride from so go for it and enjoy school.

I really do not like the big lense hoods. I used a Huntsman Hood for years in the pipe trades. I prefer to have the option to either use an auto darkening or straight tinted lense. When welding open butt there are too many times when the arc is in the inside of a pipe the lense wants to go bright.

A knockout punch will do what you need. If you have a buddy that is an electrician it should cost you a beer. They can also be found on ebay.

Here are some old school ways of checking things. Pull one plug wire at a time and see if the noise changes. This will check both rod and piston slap problems. Also you have found that you have oil passage problems. Put 2 qts of ATF in the already hot engine and let it idle for at least 1/2 hr and flush the engine. I put some cardboard in front of the radiator to get the engine good and warm. It sound more like you have a sticking valve due to lack of oil. Flushing the engine could loosen things up and if nothing else will clean up the oil passages so it should not happen again.

I have a set of acura integra seats,late 90s. I cut the bottom of the seat next to the tunnel side mounting bolts and drill screwed them back together. Bolted right up after that.

You might want to look at this http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97153-mchh-carb-swap/ I would contact this member and see how it is working

Take you lifters out and soak them in carb cleaner or run a can of engine flush. Old school is to add 2 qts of ATF and let the engine ilde for about 30 minutes to flush an engine. I have seen this work on V8 lifters in the past. It sure will not hurt and it could save changing a head out.

If your tank is low on gas your fuel lines are switched. I had mine switched and it would run out of gas with about 2 gallons in the tank. My electric pump at the tank was also trash. I installed a electric pump with a switch to get everything full of fuel. Of course my z will sit for months between being started.

Been there Done That. YEARS ago I camped/working construction on the road in my 240. Kick the passenger seat all of the way forward and recline all of the way. Let the driver seat rest on the stearing wheel and get a couple of old pillows to pad the back deck edge. You have a great view of the stars through the rear hatch until it fogs over. Heck I was sure a lot more desperate making a living back then.

Really do not care anymore. The cars are a joke, there is not a stock part on the car, and there are only a few teams that win the races. NASCAR needs to run STOCK BODY Mustang, Camaro & Challenger, let Toyota come out with thier own muscle car. Only allow 2 car teams, change qualifying to fastest 33 go in by speed and the rest race in with a last chance race. I use to watch all of the races and now only watch when channel surfing past it.

VW BUG, only Herbie knows why.

Now this is the set up I was planning on running on my supercharged forced induction. It is a 4x4 inch box section. The neat thing about this design is you can also set it up cold air induction by it putting the air cleaner in front of the radiator.

Now wait a moment. I have a 280 engine in my 260 with carbs and a mechanical fuel pump. If that is the question it will work. For EFI you need a inline electric pump or a 280 fuel tank with internal pump.

I started a swap to a SHO engine but after fighting with the wrecking yard that I made a deal for all of my parts list for a set price, they could not get the T5 tranny, I returned the engine and got my money back. So decided to stay with the L6 with a wet supercharger. Went to buy a 5 speed from a guy and was offered a set of 45mm SK racing carbs for $100 so started looking at dry forced induction with a supercharger. Just got burned out on the project and have a deal to sell my Z so another project never finished.

You never said where it was leaking. I just replaced my vent lines off of the top of the tank. The 1/4" hose had a hole in it. While I had it apart that far replaced the 5/8" hose, made the return bend out of 1/2" copper fittings. If your tank is only leaking when full I bet that the vent lines are leaking. I have soldered up gas tanks before. I washed out the tank several times with hot soapy water and filled the tank with soapy water until just the area that I was soldering was not in contact with the water. Clean the area shinny and used 50-50 solder and a paste soldering flux and a propane troche. The idea is to have as little volume of the tank with air in it as possible. The only place to find 50-50 is at a stained glass craft store. I put 20 years in the pipe trades as a welder and fitter so I had some experience dealing with this type of thing. Or use Double Bubble Bubble Gum I have seen this work on a side of the road gas tank leak 40 years ago.

I would fab a new post and attach it to the inside of the broken one. I would drill and tap the existing one in 2 places and narrow up the float to fit. Replacing the existing unit is the best option, but It could be fixed. I have bought parts from http://redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/Table_of_Contents.htm with good results.

I do not know about a Z but have seen these on Volvos back in the early 70s. I think they use a Jag SU.

If you want a spare motor I will sell you one for $400, it is a basic long block with exhaust manifold, turbo, intake manifold and wiring harness. I was going to use it in my supercharger project, but now have a deal to sell my Z. I am in W Phoenix.

What one person might like another will dislike. I would take 1K off of the car because of the fender mirrors. To me it meams removing them and a new paint job. It is like my convertible people either like or hate it. The turbo is good for some but others want a stock 240. The market is soft on Zs so you have to get what you can.

Here is what I fabed up. It is 4x4 Tube stock with a plate on each end. I have plates on each carb and the angle on the top and bottom bolts it all together. Install the air filter behind the grill and have cold air induction. Also rayapp2 "The only smells I get are HC's coming out my exhaust pipe and through my hatch's missing seal during decel in gear... that can sometimes burn my eyes... its significantly worse with the window rolled down. lol" If you have that much exhaust gas in your car you are really pushing the CO and that will kill you. Next project SEAL OFF THAT REAR END!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rings are rusted to the cylinder is my guess. If you have the pan off start unbolting the rod one at a time and you will find which cylinder is froze.

A FINISHED FACTORY FIVE COBRA. MAX SEX APEAL AND MAX PERFORMANCE

I saw wiring diagram on this web sites some where, this might work. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/48825-factory-manuals-some/ The light switches get corroded as do the plugs. you might try cleaning all of the connections. I shined mine up when I had a simular problem.

I can't remember exactly if mine was the same on my 260. I took it apart and replaced the O-ring seal. It has not leaked since I did it. Do a search some of the members changed thiers out with units from other cars that are a hole lot cheaper.

It would be a shame to see the molds go on the scrap heap. I saw them before they left AZ. As with buying anything in this day and age, buyer needs to do his research,contact Arizona Z Car on what to look for. The kit car industry is not doing well right now due to the economy and there is not a lot of demand out there.