SHO-Z

You take them out from the back. There 3 or 4 bolts to remove. It is best to take the wheel off to access the bolts. Mine broke off when I removed the cover. So I replaced with drill screws.

It looks like that 240 needs a donor car for all of the parts and pieces it needs. That much rust is more than the average person would want to deal with fabricating all of the stuff that is needed. Try to find a roller 260 0r 280 and cut out what you need or graft the best of the 240 to the 260 or 280.

I was a union pipe welder for years and after a back injury went to school and am now an Mech Eng. Welding can be good but you can expect to travel away from home to find work. And the construction industry now is in the ditch. There are few old welders around, first your eyes give out then the body! Engineering has made me more money than I did in the pipe trades. Evan the construction industry is becoming more automatic welding processes. For me it is fun designing the projects and constructing them.

Try Reaction Research, Inc, he makes several kit set ups. His is located in Phoenix, Az. http://www.kitcarz.com/

As everyone knows the market is soft now. The wider your advertizing base is the more potential buyers and the better price you might get. Even the RESTORED STOCK 240Z have been loosing value the last couple of years. Oh for the boom years to return!!!

If it welds at all it is worth $25. I used a borrowed Cheap Mig Welder when I did my convertible conversion. It had gas added an would weld great one time and bad the next. But it was very used and beat up. For your purchase price you will not loose your money.

From my calc sheet your set up will give you about 5.5 psi of boost. In a perfect world you will get about 35% hp gain. For 8 psi of boost you will need about 2.19 ratio. I was looking at http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightaspm1.htm for the lower pulley my project. I was going to use a M62 out of a SLK Mercedes. But the project has been sitting on a bench for years. Good luck on the project.

I hate change. I know we have had this new web site for a while. I knew how to upload pics in the old web site, but I cannot figure out how to do it in the new site. I can find my album but there is no buttons or anything to upload a new pic. It is heck being on old fart that does not know computers!!! Please give me a step by step process. Thanks

I got a BS in Mechanical Engineering Technology from Metropolitain State College in Denver CO, I was in my 40s after a back injury I had to find a new ocupation. The degree is for engineers that want to be a design engineer and is ABET certified. All of the classes are taught be professors not grad students. I survived calc and physics, heck physics is just a condensed ME degree class. For me I had to look at getting an engineering degree like a job. There were a few other students from School of Mines and came to Metro for the more hands on and personal help they need to become engineers. I am now a PE so no one cares where I got my degree. And after you graduate as a design engineer you will add, subtract, multiply and divide, look it up in a book and know that your answer makes sence like the rest of us.

Someone might be interested in this craigslist ad There is a 250 gto front end in the back ground of the pic. $300 ????? http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/2004442671.html

I raised mine to make the gaps as narrow as possible. I glassed the under sides to close the gaps. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/gallery/member/420-sho-z/

On the street for about 30 miles over a year ago, last time I moved it 6 months ago into a trailer about 30 ft. Mine is more of a yearly or bi yearly driver.

Try 2 pieces of 2" or larger angle iron and 2 large C-clamps and pull it streight. By the hatch closer it looks like you might want to add a small piece of angle to re-inforce it.

I am surprised that Tony D has not logged into this discussion. As he says EFI is the way to go. He is the expert on blow thru. I was working on a supercharger/ blow thru set up. From what I have researched getting a higher pressure in the float bowls that the carb throats is one of he major design considerations. As I said HSK used baffels, I was planning on using a tubing set up and the pressure loss going through the intercooler. From my reading the stock jetting will work if the bowl pressure is higher than the carb throats. Now I am no expert and have really stopped working on my project, due to lack of interest. My z has either been sitting in the garage or in a trailer for better than a year.

Don't expect to see 15% any time soon. Gas Station would have to add new tanks and pumps for the stuff and few would expend the cost for the changes.

From what I have read the cartech is just a box. It is not like the HK that uses a baffel to increase the pressure in the float bowls and richens the mixture under boost . The Mikunis have the same floats as the SK Racing and are more heavy duty for boost. Do a search on the subject.

If you want to build something look in the background of this craigs list add for $300, its the front end of a 250GTO http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/1954449128.html

OLD School Again: Drain you oil, and put in ATF as a flush, start the engine and let it idle for 30 minutes, do not drive the car . It helps if you put some cardboard if front of the radiator to get the engine on the warm side. Drain the ATF and put in 20-50 oil. ATF is high detergent and can get all of the sludge out of your engine.

Spun Bearings = Lack OF Oil. Got may FJ40 Landcruiser stuck one time and spun a bearing due to the oil being at the wrong end of the pan from the oil pump. MY wife knocked the oilpan plug off of her K car years ago, another spun bearing.

By a comparison the 4 cylinder BMW 1800 TI/SA had dual 45mm Webers, 10.5 compression and produced 180 hp. This was in the 60s so the BMW engineers at that time thought 45mm per cylinder and 450 CC.

I have not seen more than 1 older Z a year in my part of the Phoenix area, far west valley. All if the older Z people seem to be in the other side of the Valley so I am really on my own. In fact there aren't any car guys in my neighborhood that I know of. I guess it is just too hot in AZ. Heck my Z has not been on the road in over a year anyway, maybe that is why I do not see any.

I dropped the air DA sander, there are too many good electric ones that make less noise and work better. Watch the stripper if there is any body filler it will affect it too. Also on the area near the vents behind the rear side windows you will find lead filler used by the factory. I found the sanding sponges sold at Harbor Freight work great after scraping off the chemical stripper, and that stuff will burn your skin so keep a bucket of water and some rags handy incase it happens. Also wear a respirator; you do not need to breathe this stuff. It will take some time to get this done but football season has started and a TV in the garage, between the plays and during the commercials the job is not that bad.

I think anything larger than a 45mm is way too big for a Z engine. Four 45mm carbs are used on a 350 ci V8, do the math! You would need to install chokes about the same size as a 45mm to get the jets to flow properly. At anything less than full throttle it would fall on its face.

About everyone has some type of problem with one parts outlet or another, I have had problems with Checker and my son with Napa so just keep your reciepts and find one that seems to have people behind the counter who are car guys.

From what I have heard the OER are a new version of the SK Racing carbs, weber jets and Mikuni floats. It partialy depends on how much you want to spend on other parts for your car. Used webers are going for around $600 and the OERs could cost twice that amount if you can fine a used set, I have never seen any. I have not seen any SKs for sale in a long time.