jonbill

Surely your moustache bar is back to front?

I'm very happy with my Speeduino. Hard to beat the price and it has all the features I need (and more).

Fair enough. Did the conversion kit add a spacer or any other material to the clutch mc bulkhead mount point?

I don't believe changing the cam will make any difference. Problem is elsewhere. Something in the intake path perhaps.

How much rod is visible at the slave cylinder? Have you changed the clutch?

https://www.comp.co.uk/products/product.asp?item=ml1582-302-129

Looks like there are 3 z31 manual gearboxes. https://www.z31.com/transmission.shtml I'm sure they have all gone into an s30 in the past.

Fwiw, the front jet in the head actually supplies oil from the head to the timing chain tensioner gear.

Didn't you say you'd tried a new high volume pump too? So can't be that - pressure is being lost somewhere in the system. I'm really not sure whether the effect of excessive clearances or unplugged galleries will be seen from low rpm or not. I could be persuaded either way 🤔 Another possibility might be a partially blocked gallery - flows enough to get 40psi at your measuring point, but no more. I suspect the true diagnosis can only come with stripping the engine down and checking everything.

What modifications does the engine have? Maybe there's a missing plug in the crank or the front of the oil gallery, or the oil jet to the head is too big or the bearing clearances are much too big.

My experience is the same as @madkaw. On my 2.9, it looked like that at 200 miles and 10,000 miles. Edit: I haven't had the 3.2 open again yet, but I expect less of it there. Longer rods and all that.

Pick a car from 1980 with L16 and I expect it's alternator will fit.

For instance:

What motor unit will you put on the ITBs? I'd be interested in following to the same path to maximise power at lower rpm.

Can't the machine shop measure what they've got?

Why not order some and measure them? They look cheap enough.

I bought some 12.7 m12x1.75 bolts - my notes say 12@145mm and 5@172mm. I think I also bought some 150mm ones, so I'm not 100% sure which are on it. They weren't sold as head bolts, just high tensile. I've had no problem with them. As an update, it's still going well. It's developed a bit of an oil leak from the sump gasket, I think its because the sump is just touching the steering rack and the vibration may have worn through the gasket. I need to take the engine out in the next couple of months to confirm.

use a 36-1 crank trigger wheel. (rather than small and sloppy distributor wheel)

have a look at this thread.

I'd say so.

that does look like mine - fractured at the key slot

This is my oil pump gear and spindle from 2017. I put it down to the load from the turbo oil pump and lots of revs. I replaced with a bronze drive gear and its been fine since.

I just use ignition advance to control idle speed. 28° when cold going down to 6-8° when warm. Idles at ~1000 rpm from startup.

Forged street pistons, 88.5 & 38.1 PH and 89.5 & 35.5 PH.

I just emailed Mr Mori. or is it Mr Kame? I'm not sure, but he's very helpful. kame.mori@nifty.com