jonbill
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Everything posted by jonbill
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catch can with a breather.
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Long water pump bolt about to break HELP!
jonbill replied to 5 Star Rising's topic in Nissan L6 Forum
It must be just crud build up on the bolt. Is it turning easily, but just not coming out of the hole? I'd be seeing can get a pry bar levering it gently out while spinning it with the impact gun. -
quite a bit more than you'd expect to make up in a skim then. weird.
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that's interesting, how far down were they?
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Yeah I have similar kameari pistons on my current engine and I did measure it up and the cutouts were needed. (but I cant remember the details) I'll just be moving the head over. It has Schneider 68025 springs. revs past 8000 ok.
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yes, valve cut outs are to prevent piston valve contact. The cam has about 15mm valve lift and 300+ degrees duration. but also, thats how Kameari pistons come. the markings on the pistons are how much they're above the deck. about 0.4mm, so I'll use a 1.2mm gasket.
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I got the rods back - a bit thinner at the little end and now with oil squirt holes. The pistons are now installed. Next up, mock up the timing cover install with a spare head and check the head bolts fit.
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Setting up an R200 is quite hard, especially the pinion. Rule of thumb, don't take the pinion out unless you really have to.
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Schneider list their spring pressures on their website. for info, when I went to swap out my 68025 (125 lb) springs for new 68022 (110 lb) it turned out the 68025 springs were only exerting about 95 lb anyway. (aiui, lots of high rpm action tires the springs quickly) Anyway, I think the Schneider springs and caps have been great value for me. I'd recommend them to anyone.
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Sure, if that's what your testing shows. Really all you're looking for is that the AFR/Lambda doesn't change at idle with the fans on and off, with the lights on and off. etc. As long as your fuelling remains pretty constant across all the different voltages that your car is likely to see then I wouldn't worry to much about the out extremes of the dead time table.
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No, that doesn't make sense. You want the curve to reflect the characteristics of your injectors. you can't 'set' the dead time - you can only inform the ECU what the dead time is, for it to use in calculating injection duration. your dead time will not be 1.5ms from 13.9 to 14.2 volts.
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Just a point of detail, Quaife do still offer the lifetime warranty, they just exclude the US, Canada and Mexico. No idea why.
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The crank has been in a while, now I'm waiting for my rods to be modifed.
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the timing covers have a lip at the top where the head bolts to it. if you cut it down, you'll have build it up and tap it for the head bolts. I'd think fitting a crankshaft trigger wheel and sensor would be less effort and work better.
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Yes, I think all the indications are that it has been reground. It also looks to me that there is evidence of the clearances being too tight - the engine is really dirty, but the base circle of some of the lobes are still bright, which suggests they're in contact with the rockers. I'd also set it back to standard.
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I think you've mixed up measurement units. cold clearances should be 0.15 and 0.25mm I reckon. 0.008 to 0.010 sounds reasonable for measurement in inches. So your exhaust is ok and your inlet is too tight. If your measurements are really in mm, its all way too tight.
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After a long delay, I've started assembly. It's on the stand and lots of plugs of various kinds are in. Crank should be in by the end of the week.
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I reckon you should be able to run them fine John, they'll just limit the air flow and so power at the top end. no idea on needles though!
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19° at what RPM?
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9k rpm sounds epic on an L engine.
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I don't think the p90 is critical to being able to rev that high, but its a good starting point if you want to make power up there. There's lots of info on here about the qualities of the p90in terms of air flow and Squish.
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well I found that 8700 was just too much as it was getting dialed in on the dyno, so we didn't get a run recorded. the machine was saying more than 300bhp somewhere after 8000 as I was watching before it ended abruptly.
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its an f54 bored to 88.5, standard l28 crank balanced with the flywheel and clutch, maxpeedingrods l28 rods, Kameari forged pistons. welded p90 head, standard valves, 0.585"/308° cam, Kameari twin idler tensioner, kameari crank damper, zstory exhaust, fajs ITBs, Speeduino EFI. thats probably about it.
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my £8k motor doesn't go to 9k. 8.7k turned out to be the limit. I reckon titanium valves and retainers would get it there.
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I recall there was a thread on classiczcars.com that might be worth looking up. Also there's zclocks.com if you want someone else to fix it.
