jonbill

The crank has been in a while, now I'm waiting for my rods to be modifed.

the timing covers have a lip at the top where the head bolts to it. if you cut it down, you'll have build it up and tap it for the head bolts. I'd think fitting a crankshaft trigger wheel and sensor would be less effort and work better.

Yes, I think all the indications are that it has been reground. It also looks to me that there is evidence of the clearances being too tight - the engine is really dirty, but the base circle of some of the lobes are still bright, which suggests they're in contact with the rockers. I'd also set it back to standard.

I think you've mixed up measurement units. cold clearances should be 0.15 and 0.25mm I reckon. 0.008 to 0.010 sounds reasonable for measurement in inches. So your exhaust is ok and your inlet is too tight. If your measurements are really in mm, its all way too tight.

After a long delay, I've started assembly. It's on the stand and lots of plugs of various kinds are in. Crank should be in by the end of the week.

I reckon you should be able to run them fine John, they'll just limit the air flow and so power at the top end. no idea on needles though!

19° at what RPM?

9k rpm sounds epic on an L engine.

I don't think the p90 is critical to being able to rev that high, but its a good starting point if you want to make power up there. There's lots of info on here about the qualities of the p90in terms of air flow and Squish.

well I found that 8700 was just too much as it was getting dialed in on the dyno, so we didn't get a run recorded. the machine was saying more than 300bhp somewhere after 8000 as I was watching before it ended abruptly.

its an f54 bored to 88.5, standard l28 crank balanced with the flywheel and clutch, maxpeedingrods l28 rods, Kameari forged pistons. welded p90 head, standard valves, 0.585"/308° cam, Kameari twin idler tensioner, kameari crank damper, zstory exhaust, fajs ITBs, Speeduino EFI. thats probably about it.

my £8k motor doesn't go to 9k. 8.7k turned out to be the limit. I reckon titanium valves and retainers would get it there.

I recall there was a thread on classiczcars.com that might be worth looking up. Also there's zclocks.com if you want someone else to fix it.

It's a great head. but the original chamber size is 53cc, so on an L24 you've got to weld a lot or skim a lot to get a decent CR.

P90A is quite common in the UK and all have solid lifters.

I kept the diesel intake too, it does look interesting (but it's not going on this engine!) I think the diesel may be a bit more common here; the gen 3 Patrol had it for quite a few years I think and sold in good numbers. (although wikipedia doesn't mention it). my blocks are v57 which seem thicker and reinforced compared to the v07 you got. my guess is that it has similar bore material as f54 petrol block, so probably safe to 88 or so.

I have the block back. 2 & 6 went through and have liners. you can see the liner sealant through one of the core plug holes. next job is to open up water holes on the oil filter side of the block.

Yeah I did email them but no reply. I don't blame them; nothing in it for them. I should hear tomorrow how the liners worked out.

Its a bit of a voyage of discovery. The firm doing the boring and liners seem confident the liners will be held ok top and bottom, and they do a lot of them although not on this engine obvs. but I'll only really know if it works when I've run it.

Update on this. 4 cylinders on the v57 block have been bored to 89.5 and are serviceable. front two got too thin and are being linered. The crank has been lightened to 17 kg and offset ground to 84.25 stroke and ia going for balancing with an XTD RB25 flywheel and clutch. Kameari 89.5 pistons coming next week, so its all moving along.

schneidercams.com spring retainers are deeper. http://schneidercams.com/7steelretainer-73004.aspx you might need to check they fit your springs.

first up, you need to get the physical size right- distance between the o rings and diameter of the o rings. if like my Fajs ITBs it'll be 61mm and 14mm. then you have to get the electrical connector right - if your efi comes with a harness, it'll already have connectors, probably uscar or jetronic. then you want to pick the right flow rate. 330cc will get you to around 50bhp/cylinder. I have Bosch 0280156095 which were on european ford focus st170 10/15 years ago and so are quite cheap.

are you sure the choke is off?

it seems odd to me that it runs fine above 1300 rpm. if something is broken, i cant imagine how it becomes unbroken with a few more RPM. are you sure you haven't got an ecu feature set that turns on or off at 1300, and isn't set right? ego control, idle ignition control, map switching etc?

if its idling at 2000, your first problem is too much air, not too much fuel.