jonbill

first up, you need to get the physical size right- distance between the o rings and diameter of the o rings. if like my Fajs ITBs it'll be 61mm and 14mm. then you have to get the electrical connector right - if your efi comes with a harness, it'll already have connectors, probably uscar or jetronic. then you want to pick the right flow rate. 330cc will get you to around 50bhp/cylinder. I have Bosch 0280156095 which were on european ford focus st170 10/15 years ago and so are quite cheap.

are you sure the choke is off?

it seems odd to me that it runs fine above 1300 rpm. if something is broken, i cant imagine how it becomes unbroken with a few more RPM. are you sure you haven't got an ecu feature set that turns on or off at 1300, and isn't set right? ego control, idle ignition control, map switching etc?

if its idling at 2000, your first problem is too much air, not too much fuel.

why not leave the ECU running the distributor?

the right looks like it's got positive camber and the left looks like it's got a little negative, suggests something is bent. (assuming standard suspension gear). this thread may have some help. https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/rear-wheel-toe-in-on-one-side.23571/

My two major sources of vibration/shaking were tyre wear patterns and worn front wheel bearings.

Hi, I've been doing a load of searching, and there are probably about 1/2 dozen threads about building an engine on the LD28 block and crank and have got a lot of info from them. I'm just embarking on building the engine. Aim is to use the 83mm crank and get the bore out to around 90mm with sleeves, which I think will get to about 3.1 liter. I'm looking to get some feedback on my plan, and possible answers to questions as I go along, or just bored silence So - V57 block (rear sump), V07 crank and I've acquired 6 Isuzu 4ZE1 rods from Maxpeedingrods. They're 150mm long, 26.8 mm wide with 21mm little end and 52mm big end. I'll be using my existing modified P90 head - chamber size is currently 39cc. Questions: 1) by my calc, I'm looking for a piston with compression height around 35 to 36. does that sound about right? Kameari have 35.5 CH forged pistons up to 89.5mm bore - anyone know any others? 2) with a 1mm undersize rod journal, can the crank be offset ground that 1mm and get me 84mm stroke? or doesn't it work like that? 3) Do I need to open up the water holes on the right side of the block to match the head water holes, or plug the head holes? I'm assuming the former, but read a thread maybe suggested the latter. 4) The block doesn't have the water bypass to the pump hole, and it can't be made. I'm assuming this isn't a problem and I don't need to do anything to blank the head here. correct? 5) The replacement liners will need to be brazed in one way or another. Anyone got any details of what does and doesn't work here? 6) I'm planning to use the LD timing cover (modified to get rid of the mounting for the diesel pump). All the threads I read, people used the L20B timing cover - Is the only concern here the distributor? I'm running a distributor-less setup. I don't think L20B timing covers are so plentiful here in the UK. 7) I don't like the idea of drilling my nice P90 head for M12 bolts, I'd like to keep it usable for my F54 block if possible, so I'd like to helicoil the block to M10 and just get longer M10 head bolts. Anything wrong with this plan? That's all I've got for now - all feedback welcome.

I really like mine. No slop at all.

I don't think I had to use any power tools I do vaguely recall it took me a little while to figure it out, but it was a couple of years ago now! Maybe there was a lock screw somewhere...

Yes, I have the B&M shifter (I think it was B&M anyway!) The coupler thing came off on mine.

The rubber seal on the body where the gear stick comes through? I just rotated mine 180 degrees and made new screw holes.

I saw on the Speeduino forum that you have the HEI working. Sorry I can't answer your question about the zxt CAS, although I suspect the info is here on hybridz.org somewhere.

I dunno what an accel 300 is so can't help, but I bet someone on the speeduino forum would know.

Have you tried it? I think the Quaife note on equal length shafts is for shortnose r200 or just wrong. My original shafts fitted into my Quaife just fine.

Good progress. Maybe the high idle is a small air leak. It doesn't take much to raise it a few 100rpm. Does MS have ignition advance idle control?

I think with 60kpa, there would be way too much air to idle at 800. Is the MAP calibrated properly?

60kpa sounds way too much at idle. What AFR does it have idling there? What rpm is it idling at?

https://youtu.be/6OPo9lz6wag I'm up and running now with Speeduino and ITBs. A long way to go on the tuning, but starts and idles well enough now. Not so clattery in real life

You could have a failed oil control ring and still get good compression. Also is it possible on megasquirt to set different injection parameters for different cylinders? My Speeduino allows it.

Resistor plugs give less electrical interference than non resistor plugs, so perhaps some EMS could be sensitive to interference from non resistor plugs. I wouldnt think coil packs would be affected though. I don't think there's a down side to using resistor plugs.

Does "jumping to its own direction" mean the car changes direction somewhat? If its clunking and steering at the backend when you come off the throttle I would think there's something loose in the suspension rather than the differential.

"it" appears to be 3 cam profiles and you are asked to pick one. The highest lift one won't work with stock valve springs. You should get new rockers with a new cam. You'll also need new lash pads. You won't know what size lash pads until you've mocked it up.

Thanks, that's really interesting about the idle speed. Since I installed this engine it's been idling at 1100, except this spring I installed Speeduino mapped ignition and dropped the idle to 950, just because I could really. I did maybe 2k miles like that before I found the damage. It would be very nice to not strip and rebuild the bottom end this winter to drill that oil jet. Maybe I'll just fit the new springs, skim the head up to 12:1 and finish the conversion to EFI.

Thanks. My engine I suppose got to about 6 or 7k miles before I discovered this wear. I've always used zddp additive with decent synthetic oil. I've had the cam repaired and discussed the springs with the cam grinder/repairer and others and consensus is that the schneider 68025 springs are a little too stiff for the L engine rocker arm setup; I probably have near 300 lb pressure at full lift with them. So I've bought some 68022 which are in the right range. I'll also be stripping the engine down and drill the block oil jet out to 3mm over the winter. I'm hoping those two changes should see it good for many more miles.