z2go

It is an auction, so you never know. So... good luck!

Because for someone who is just starting out, having a book that deals with fuel injection on a V8 in a Z application might be useful. I didn't say it's the only reference you should read. You should just add it to your list. Plus, it tells you how to modify the T56 to run the speedo.

I think the Datsun BRE stripe is cool, man. It's a unique idea, shows the heritage of the Z. Keep it! I think what you guys are saying about the 350/370 majority crowd is correct... they have no idea what is behind the badge. Both of my neighbors are young guys who both own modified 350z's. Neither of them have ever shown any interest in my Z, not even so much as an extended look in the garage. I don't even think they know an original Z when they see one. However, a Datsun 510 guy around the corner, on a different block makes it a habit to come check out the Z progress and talk shop with me.

For the voltmeter, you don't want to hook it up where the ammeter was. They run on different principles. You want to just hook the ground up to any ground point, and the hot wire, hook up to the B+ through the ignition switch, so that any time the switch is turned on, even with it not running, it can read the battery voltage through the whole car's system. The ammeter just shows the current drain... either into or out of the battery, and connects two wires directly to the alternator and battery.

You may also want to pick up the V8 TPI and TBI Engine swap manual.

Did you flush the system before changing the radiator? It might be sludge that came out from the block. Possibly rust? If the engine sat for a long time with water in it, that's possible. If it were me, I would clean it up, flush the system and check again after running it. If it's gone or starts to go away, it was probably just gunk that was stuck in the engine, if it comes back full force, you know you have a problem. Caveat: I am not a professional, I would still check with a mechanic for other possibilities.

What does the baby doodoo smell like? What is the history of the coolant? Has the proper ratio of coolant to water been used, and changed at a reasonable interval? There's a lot of unknowns here. You might also have luck checking on the world wide web for troubleshooting like this, especially on a chevy.

IMO, whatever you do, make the accents match. If you have a CF tail and silver flares and air dam, it will definitely look like separate projects on one car. If you can match the tail, air dam, flares, and any other accents, it will look like just that... accents to your car. For mine, my color is 07 corvette orange, and I'm going with flat black ("done to death" as you said ), so if and when I do a spoiler... and fender flares, they too will match the trim and taillight backing, etc. I think if you can accomplish this, no matter what color you choose it will look good, and classy.

True, but I am thinking of this portion: "But the emphasis is on FUNCTION, not the addition of graphics, wings, etc. to only make the Z LOOK like it is a high performance car. " If you ask any mod, this is what it's all about. Everyone shows off their paint, cool body kits, etc, but the line is drawn where it hurts the performance of the car, is the main point.

I think you are way off base here. If the next cool thing was to put lawn mower wheels on a Z, and drive it around at 3mph, it would still not be something for this website because it would DETRACT from performance. Same with slamming a car and stretching tires... no one said you shouldn't do it, just don't do it here, because it DETRACTS from performance, no matter how stylish anyone thinks it looks. Hybridz's purpose is FUNCTION over FORM, and if you think that form should go before function, then you are in the wrong place. As it has been stated many times before, if you don't like what this site stands for, then you don't have to stick around. When it comes to styling in ADDITION to function, that's a different story. In this case, you will never have a car that is a 1/2 inch off the ground that could ever, ever be considered a performance-oriented vehicle.

Pyro, you have a PM.

Yes, he could, but that would defy the rules of the forum and what it stands for. Are you going to make a new build thread?

BRAAP is trying to tell you that your posts are welcome if you can keep them in line with the fundamentals of this forum - this is not Stance Nation, stretching tires and dragging frame rails are not performance enhancers. Your posts on this thread are reminiscent of pouting. If you have hurt feelings that your post was sent to the shed, no one is sorry. It did not belong on this forum. Dust yourself off and re-post the technical information. Or, don't.

+1 to that. If you are worried about its current worth, I would ask an actual automotive appraiser to inspect it.

Looking for your unwanted MM 240sx conversion kit for the 240z. I'm not in a rush to order it, so I thought I would put out a feeler to see if anyone has a kit that they don't intend on using anymore. If you have a lightly used kit, please send me info on its use history, and maybe some pictures too. If you have the calipers, I may be interested as well. Feel free to post on here, send me a PM, or email me directly through the site. -Josh

This is a good topic to be posted in the WANTED section, since this has nothing to do with technical enhancement of the vehicle.

Since you are local, I recommend Clay and Paquette for your engine work. They specialize in race applications, but will do just about anything you want them to, and they are great guys. Chris Paquette is the owner, he built the motor that I have in my Z, and really went all out for a great price. They have been in town forever, so I would go in and ask them for their recommendation on what you should do, they will not take you for a ride, and they will give you what you need. They don't do transmissions though, so I don't have a recommendation for that. Clay and Paquette is on garden highway close to the fairgrounds.

For your exhaust leak issue, the classic Z problem... I would say invest in rubber replacement, namely the hatch seals, the two rubber plugs in the hatch door, all the taillight and side marker gaskets, and any rubber plugs throughout the cabin... how are your door seals? They might need some help too. You might also have an actual exhaust leak somewhere in your exhaust, so I would inspect that. How old is your brake booster? You might need a rebuilt one for that braking issue. To fix the spring issue, invest in some nice Eibach or other aftermarket springs, research on here to see what other people did for their specific setup to try to find what works best for you. If it were me, I would tackle all of the problems before working on the upgrades, which will make it easier to diagnose other things that might creep up as you go along. For that grinding transmission issue, you might want to look at swapping the transmission for a rebuilt one, or have it rebuilt yourself, depending on the cost in your area (which by the way, you should update your profile to say your location in order to be in compliance with the site rules ). In the end, this thread might end up just getting canned to the tool shed because really, those questions are matters of personal opinion, and only you can decide what is best for you. Also with some research you can find a lot of the answers to your questions pretty easily.

I saw that the car didn't meet your reserve price. What are your plans now?

As for a used JTR radiator, you might luck out and find someone on here that is selling one secondhand that has never been used. That's how I found mine.

hpltree, you have a PM.

That's probably more than the admins really want to tackle right now, seeing as there is more damage control needed on a daily basis than anything else. So, I wouldn't get my hopes up. But, if you see something in particular that you think should be moved, you can always nominate it.

That's a cool photo, I like it

Like I said, I wasn't stating my opinion, just what others' opinions/positions were. I think it could be argued that people have custom full aluminum radiators made because they are shiny, look sexy, and have the EXPENSIVE taste that one who is going all-out desires. Just because something is the most expensive, doesn't make it the best for every application. Also, you are right, metal is a better conductor of heat than plastic, but I'm pretty sure that the majority (99%) of the cooling capacity is in the core. A small amount of heat can be dissipated by the tank ends, but no better than a pot of boiling water dissipates heat out the sides. There is no real directed airflow around it, and it doesn't have much surface area to dissipate the heat. Now, if you were to use, say, a bunch of computer heat sinks and little fans attached down the side of the reservoir, you might be on to something. However that would totally negate the sexy radiator look.

Dude, that is going to be one sweet ride. Hopefully you get it up and running soon. It's nice that you ended up with a 240, so you don't have to deal with that pesky smog check